I'll do that. Looks like there are actually multiple spots that are delaminating on the "sunning shelf" or whatever you want to call it. Argh.

I actually can't tell if that's gunnite underneath or another plaster. Given how insanely thin it seems to be, I'm leaning toward it being maybe being the original plaster coat underneath. It looks like it might be white plaster with little black and blue specks in it. I was under the impression plaster was supposed to be about 1/2" thick. You'd need a micrometer to measure this.





Last image is the sunning shelf. Every one of those bumps is "squishy", which given how thick plaster is supposed to be (from what all I'm reading) should be impossible.

This sucks really, really bad.

Edit: Thanks to the always-excellent posts from @onBalance , it appears this is actually plaster "spalling". All of the details line up in this thread:

• "Crater" look, shallow
• Extremely rough
• On a long, flat, horizontal plane
• Didn't flake off or cause issues until the pool was drained and the plaster become sufficiently dry.

So am I right to assume this isn't the end of the world? Just attack these spots by sanding and attempting to replaster with the E-Z Patch (ordered the gray non-FS 1 earlier this evening)? I'm fine with pushing the replaster to next year, I just want to make sure this isn't causing some catastrophic damage like letting water get down to the concrete shell or anything.

Also wow my plaster used to be a much different color.

generessler said:

Just a note. The common wisdom around here is that cell reports of salt level should not be trusted. The gold standard is the Taylor salt test. If the cell is tracking the Taylor test, that's great, but don't assume it will be so forever. A little crust on the sensor can change things.

Click to expand...

Yes, absolutely. I would never want to add salt without doing a Taylor test. My interest in the salt cell reading is because it’s the salt cell reading that determines when/if chlorine is produced, so I want to keep it happy as well.

Just a note. The common wisdom around here is that cell reports of salt level should not be trusted. The gold standard is the Taylor salt test. If the cell is tracking the Taylor test, that's great, but don't assume it will be so forever. A little crust on the sensor can change things.

The saga continues... I drained and refilled approximately half of the water from my pool to bring down the salt from 5300 to as close to 3000 as possible, as reported by the salt cell. Not surprisingly, many of the other levels are quite different, so I'll summarize what the levels are and what I plan to do. I want to be sure I have a good plan.

(All numbers taken from the TF-Pro salt test kit unless indicated otherwise)

FC: 1
CC: undetectable (< 0.5)
Salt: 3200 on controller, 3400 from Taylor test
pH: 8.0
CYA: 30
TA: 110
CH: 325

• The FC number is not surprising, since I had the whole system turned off for a day and a half while I was draining and refilling. I have already started to fix that by running the pump and chlorinator.
• I'm thinking it might be a good idea to drain just a bit more water and get the salt level a bit lower (perhaps a bit below 3000), since the chemicals I expect to add are likely to increase the salt level.
• The pH needs to be around 7.6, but to deal with the high TA, I'm thinking I'll have to go lower for short periods of time.
• I want to get the CYA around 60-70. I'm thinking 30 is too low, especially since I have a SWG.
• The TA is obviously very high. (The TA before draining was 80, so the water I added must have been very alkaline.) I want to get TA down to 50-60; to do that, I'll have to add muriatic acid and then raise the pH in stages. I expect it to take me days, if not weeks, to hit the optimal level.
• I normally keep my CH around 400-450. That is also what PoolMath recommends, since I have a pebble finish on my pool. Is it ever advisable to keep CH on the low side?

timjs said:

The weather has been relatively dry, and the ground water level is now 4 ft deep. I'm tempted to start DIGGIN! I'm going to be patient though because it's still August and I'm no fool. We haven't seen the last of the heavy rains just yet.

I did however change plans a bit. I want some extra length, so I'm drawing up 16x32ft. Also, instead of a constant 5ft depth, I think it's better to go from 6 courses (about 4ft deep) down to 10 courses ( over 6.5ft deep).
This would require a stepped footer which I've never done before, BUT, I'm sure I can handle it.
Also considering 6" wide CMUs instead of the standard 8" blocks only because they are significantly less expensive

Click to expand...

timjs said:

Thanks for the kind words! I'll be back at it as soon as possible, and I'll make sure to document as much as possible when I do!

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Hey I'm a Jacksonville actually orange parker. Anyways I will be in a similar situation as you needing new pool walls. Not sure if your up to it but would like to reach out to get some advice on my future project.

There is a specific set up procedure if you are taking ownership from a previous owner.
The previous owner should remove the system from their iAquaLink app.

Download the iAquaLink phone application from the app store and register an account. Then connect the device to the home Wi-Fi.

These are the two methods for connecting the iAquaLink to the home Wi-Fi.
There are illustrated guides at Product Manuals | iAquaLink that will assist with the process.

Hotspot Method:  
1) Remove the iAquaLink's cover lid with a Phillips head screwdriver (+).
2) Toggle the black switch inside the center of the iAquaLink PCB to Wired and back to Wi-Fi.
3) Open your device's Wi-Fi settings and connect to the iAquaLink-xxx network.  
*If you’re using a Samsung device, if prompted, stay connected to the iAquaLink Wi-Fi, then open your browser and go to a.com in your browser, this will force the login page to appear.
5) The login page will show a list of all available Wi-Fi networks, Select your 2.4Ghz network and enter the Wi-Fi password.
At the end, you will get a message stating that the connection is in progress and that you may close the window.
 
WPS Method
***Check the specifications of your router to make sure it has WPS support.
1) Take out the cover lid of the iAquaLink using a Phillips head screwdriver (+).
2) Turn the black switch that is located in the middle of the iAquaLink PCB from Wi-Fi to wired and back again.
3) Press the iAquaLink's blue WPS button. When using an iAquaLink 3.0, you must press and hold the blue WPS button until a blue light illuminates; with an iAquaLink 2.0, a yellow light will illuminate.
4) Locate your Wi-Fi router and turn on the WPS feature (usually a button you can press).
5) In less than two minutes, the two devices will attempt to connect.
6) Your iAquaLink device is linked to your home network if the red, yellow, and green lights are lit up. If not, repeat step 2 and give the other device a few minutes to press the WPS button.

Once the device has connected to the home Wi-Fi, you have to connect your smartphone to the same Wi-Fi network as the antenna.
In the iAquaLink app, press the (+ add button) in the upper right corner, and choose the 'AquaLink RS, PDA, Z4/TRi' option.
Enter your device number from the iAquaLink (located on a white sticker right below the antenna on the right side) and give the system a name (My Pool).


If you require any assistance, please get in touch with our technical support at 800-822-7933

JamesW said:

Login to view embedded media

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That was some pretty good aim … filter lid hit the pool nearly dead center. Whoever was the fire direction officer on duty deserves a commendation.

On the right side of the main panel that is by the Pool equipment - there are 4 settings
Pool Mode
Spa Mode
Spa Drain
Spa Fill
There is a button below it. Hit that button to cycle through the 4 modes and select Pool Mode.

dfwnoob said:

even grazing against it with bare skin means fiberglass torture for hours.

Click to expand...

Pro tip: Adhesive tape -- clear packing tape, duct tape, etc -- will cleanly lift all those glass fibers off of and out of your skin.

Just got this back from one of the pool builders in which I haven't posted. Any thoughts on the equipment he's listing?

suzook said:

Those are the walls my previous builder used.

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Interesting. thoughts?

If you get the Intelliflo3 with the relay card, you wire the SWCG power through a relay to control the power to the SWCG.

A Calimar VS will be about half the price.

I second what @Bperry said.
Those look like pool store test results.

Test Kits Compared

You have lots of bids, with widely varying sizes, types, makes and models.

If you are going with Hayward….
Insist on a C-4030 or larger filter
Insist on a triton vs900 or 950 pump
Get the largest gas heater you can afford. I’d get a 400K BTU

On the chlor sync, or any other SWG, make sure to get a 40K cell or larger.

What's the purpose of the check valve between the pump and filter? A 3-way diverter would be ideal there.

They didn't plumb the IntelliChlor cell (or a dummy cell until you're ready for salt). They also didn't install a heater bypass.

Mstrlucky74 said:

Just got this back from one of the pool builders in which I haven't posted. Any thoughts on the equipment he's listing?

Hayward Swim clear Cartridge filter C-3030

Max Flo VS500SP23520VSP Hayward Pump

Gas Heater H250FDPASME LO NOX HAYWARD HEATER

AQUA CAL CPB0001A CHLOR SYNC GEN 2PLUS PPM1 MANIFOLD salt sys

Wall system is the patented Latham composite saltwater pool with deck supports, switched to these as the steel walls are now rusting out over time with the salt systems ,stopped using the 10inch concrete walls as they have no footings or deck supports and they do get cracks.

The pool bottom is a Portland cement and sand hard bottom to eliminate footprints from just plain sand the liner lays on this.

Click to expand...

Those are the walls my previous builder used.

captainplanet64 said:

Thank you for the input. Sounds like there really isn’t an ideal scenario, which seems maybe waiting to see how it progresses may be best.

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You need an expansion joint between the deck and the pool tile/spa tile. That’s likely why it cracked.

thefloatqueen said:

Perhaps you need to schedule your spray tan appointments during the offseason! Gosh!

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Spray tans are a complete mystery to me. Why are they even a thing?

jubjub said:

Looking for feedback of anything looks troubling (especially low calcium).
I’ve attached my readings from Pool Math app. Gunite pool.

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You need to get one of the two recommended test kits and post those results. Can’t really advise with what you have there.