Latest activity

Posts Threads Hot

Latest activity

 Media Forum list

1741877759103.png

J
1741877759103.png

1741877322462.png

J
1741877322462.png

1741876972502.png

J
1741876972502.png

1741876764903.png

J
1741876764903.png

PSI issues?

mas985
anthony.poolify said:
Do not have an in floor cleaning system. Here is my set up.
Click to expand...
That setup really should not have that high of a PSI even at full speed.

Has the pressure always been this high or did it start recently?

Did you inspect the check valve after the heater to see if the flapper is still operating properly?

What size is the filter?

The heater looks pretty new. How old is it? For the older ones, sometimes the internals can dislodge causing a partial blockage.

How many eyeballs are there returning water to the pool and what are their internal diameters?
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: Jimrahbe

Sump Pump well problem

R
I have a in ground fibreglass pool with a 6-8" well at the deep end. It is 9 years old and I am in Ontario. I have recently been having a problem with my sump pump getting clogged with very small stones. This is probably settlement from the back fill or underlayment and most recently settled in this area. My last pump last a while, but at the end of last season it was getting clogged with stones because it had spacious openings at the bottom. I replaced it with anew pump with many small square openings in the bottom, this seemed to work however recently the stones are also finding their way in. I am not sure how much debris is down there as I usually always have a small amount of water at the bottom.
MY question is, can I or should I place some type of screening in the bottom of the well (6' down) what ?

Or maybe someone has experience with another solution.

Thanks
Click to expand...

UL rated sump pump to drain pool

dfwnoob
It's not claiming a 4K gal/hr rating, but I use the 2k gal/hr "Drummond" 1/3hp submersible pump from Horrible Fright for this (SKU #63318). It carries both a CSA and UL rating. Here is the UL page - E197437 for CENTRAL PURCHASING L L C, DBA HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS | UL Solutions

These pumps do go on sale pretty regularly, and when I bought mine there was an Inside Track discount, but you just have to wait for those offers to roll around. I've had mine for around two years and I've used it to pump some pretty nasty stuff. I bought it when our main water line in the front yard blew and when they dug the yard up, it rapidly filled with water to the point it looked like I had a moat in front of my house. It had no issues pushing muddy nasty water out, even though it wasn't rated for that, so I'm pretty happy with it overall. They do have bigger utility pumps, but that's the only one I have any experience with.

Edit: Home Depot has a 1/3 horse pump as well, which is automatic as a bonus, but it's $80 more than this one. It claims to have a CSA rating.
Click to expand...

UL rated sump pump to drain pool

Davegnh
I was looking for a low cost with relatively good flow rate (drain 4-5K gallons in a couple hrs). I just bought this unit that claimed UL but item I received was not marked. I dont like the idea of putting a non UL or ETL rated equipment in the water. I only use it 2X times a year I guess I could just a home depot one but they are 2X price for a much smaller unit.

Amazon.com They had a fake marking on the listing. Any one have a decent 1hp Ul rated model they would recommend?
thanks,

David
Click to expand...

SEAUTO Crab quick review

S
TimTucker said:
UPDATE: My Sea auto Crab is dead. 24 VDC battery voltage OK, unit won't turn on. Customer support MIA. Stored per sea auto instructions. I can hear a tiny amount of water inside (?) where the control board would most likely be. :( It worked very well for its 1 season.
Click to expand...
Yikes, that's the unfortunate thing with the flood of these cordless cleaners. While most of them work great, the reliability is just an unknown.
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: TimTucker

Gunite Issues

K
My gunite shell was poured last week on a day it was raining. They did cover it with a tarp at the end, but it ended up caving in due to the water. I have posted some pics of the result. It also appears that the slope of the pool does not go down evenly on both sides. One has a much more pronounced dropoff. As I know nothing about gunite, it this easily repairable? Can they "regrade" the pool to make the slope even? Any advice much appreciated. Thanks
Click to expand...

Attachments

  • 1000004967.jpg
    1000004967.jpg
    831.6 KB · Views: 66
  • resized.jpg
    resized.jpg
    842.2 KB · Views: 63

Pool Deck Drain question

B
Gourockian said:
As part of the pool renovation project which started this week (chipping of the old marcite), I have been working on the patio and pool decks. They have both been ground down to remove high spots where there had been cracks, which have now been sealed. I intend to resurface the decks using Cool, provided by Encore Coatings.

The existing deck drain has not really given me any problems since buying the property 28 years ago, apart from the occasional weed appearing and I usually try to gently pull these through the slats. However, I have a few concerns, the first being that neither end of the drain reaches the end of the concrete slab so I'm not sure where the water is actually draining to. Second, the top of the drain is not removable, making it difficult to clean out silt. Third, there is no continuity where the drain changes direction at the 45 and 90 degree angles. Fourth, one of the 8-ft sections is misaligned at both ends with the next section. Fifth, the two end sections run right up against the house walls.

I'm wondering if it might be advisable to replace the complete drain before resurfacing the decks as this coating is more or less a permanent finish. I would probably want to use something like 1.7" Stegmeier Frontier Deck Drain. The existing drain measures 1.25" wide and the total length is 40 feet, although I would want to install about 50 feet to reach the ends of the slab. Where it currently is against the walls, I would move the line out about 12 inches.

I plan on doing this myself, cutting out the wider channel using an angle grinder and possibly a demolition hammer. Has anyone undertaken this themselves and if so, how did they do it? I would value any advice or reccommendations.

Thanks, Al
Click to expand...
I had a similar drain and replaced it with the same. Just carefully cut the wider opening for the new drain. If I was doing it again, I’d probably cut it 1/4” wider than I needed and then add a 1/8” caulk gap along each side to seal it against the deck so when the deck shifts a little, the gap should stay sealed. Cutting a little extra wider makes the saw cut a little cleaner. Just make sure to use a straight edge for the saw to run against and don’t try to free hand it.
Click to expand...
  • Like
Reactions: jsygrls

resized.jpg

K
resized.jpg

1000004967.jpg

K
1000004967.jpg

New Vinyl Liner, Lumps and Undulations

S
It does happen - have had it a little after each of the now 3 liners I have had in my pool. BUT, yours seems to be pretty excessive. If were me, I'd push back about them needing to pull it back, and do a better job of smoothing the sand. Looks like most of the shallow end needs it, and perhaps the downslope.
The only good thing - it will be the area that highlights an algae problem first, as the dead stuff settles there more than in other places....

My current one has pretty little of the above...but there is that stupid footprint that someone left....
Click to expand...

Pool Deck Drain question

G
As part of the pool renovation project which started this week (chipping of the old marcite), I have been working on the patio and pool decks. They have both been ground down to remove high spots where there had been cracks, which have now been sealed. I intend to resurface the decks using Cool, provided by Encore Coatings.

The existing deck drain has not really given me any problems since buying the property 28 years ago, apart from the occasional weed appearing and I usually try to gently pull these through the slats. However, I have a few concerns, the first being that neither end of the drain reaches the end of the concrete slab so I'm not sure where the water is actually draining to. Second, the top of the drain is not removable, making it difficult to clean out silt. Third, there is no continuity where the drain changes direction at the 45 and 90 degree angles. Fourth, one of the 8-ft sections is misaligned at both ends with the next section. Fifth, the two end sections run right up against the house walls.

I'm wondering if it might be advisable to replace the complete drain before resurfacing the decks as this coating is more or less a permanent finish. I would probably want to use something like 1.7" Stegmeier Frontier Deck Drain. The existing drain measures 1.25" wide and the total length is 40 feet, although I would want to install about 50 feet to reach the ends of the slab. Where it currently is against the walls, I would move the line out about 12 inches.

I plan on doing this myself, cutting out the wider channel using an angle grinder and possibly a demolition hammer. Has anyone undertaken this themselves and if so, how did they do it? I would value any advice or reccommendations.

Thanks, Al
Click to expand...

Attachments

  • IMG20250313090604.jpg
    IMG20250313090604.jpg
    543.2 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG20250313090619.jpg
    IMG20250313090619.jpg
    449 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG20250313090631.jpg
    IMG20250313090631.jpg
    418.1 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG20250313090638.jpg
    IMG20250313090638.jpg
    474.8 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG20250313090658.jpg
    IMG20250313090658.jpg
    355.2 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG20250313090707.jpg
    IMG20250313090707.jpg
    418.9 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG20250313090723.jpg
    IMG20250313090723.jpg
    435.6 KB · Views: 14

IMG20250313090723.jpg

G
IMG20250313090723.jpg

IMG20250313090707.jpg

G
IMG20250313090707.jpg

IMG20250313090658.jpg

G
IMG20250313090658.jpg

IMG20250313090638.jpg

G
IMG20250313090638.jpg

IMG20250313090631.jpg

G
IMG20250313090631.jpg
Load more

Filter

Top Bottom
Back