The string line with the orange flags is about where the top rail will be if buried at grade where the patio wall is

Side kickin while we burn up some yard debris

Another step completed the last few days, tree was taken down, and some site cleanup, took up all the pavers that the smoker was on, and moved the smoker....by myself, need to make some favor calls to get it on the concrete pad . Shot the yard with a transit to figure out where the top rail would be, and we decided that we want the 24" of excavation to be from grade at the retaining wall. If we go with the grade at the fence line then the top rail will be 25" higher than the patio wall, kinda defeating the point (to us at least) of burying the pool. The con to this is that the rear of the yard is 12" higher at the fence than it is at the patio retaining wall so plans will be to build a 8-12" retaining wall at the back about 24" from the pool, there is about 8 feet from the fence line to where the pool is going to be and about 9' front the pool to the tree. Granted if we just backfill to grade will it be an issue structurally? I highly doubt it, but Wilbar says 24" to stay within warranty specs.






Bottom string line is level with grade at the back

The T-940 cell should have had a 4 year warranty and outputs the same daily amount of chlorine as the T-15 cell. The T-15 cell should come with a three year warranty, be careful as some only have a one year warranty. The T-940 cell should outlast a T-15 cell as it is designed to last longer than the T-15 cell. Other than that they work the same and are interchangeable.

If you haven't had the cell for 4 years get it replaced under warranty.

dradam said:

Novice here, buy I have your system. One all leads are reconnected you will have to reprogram your settings on the easy touch. When in Auto mode your pump will defer to those settings. It is a bit of a pain to program on the small screen of the easy touch. You might want to add a screenlogic transmitter (if they still sell it) to your com port and do it over wifi from your laptop or PC.

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Thank. That helps.

dradam said:

You might want to add a screenlogic transmitter (if they still sell it) to your com port and do it over wifi from your laptop or PC.

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It is still available but a new EasyTouch PCB + Screenlogic costs about as much as the IntelliCenter upgrade.

Hey Caarzaan and Welcome !!! Apologies its under these circumstances.

But we got you now. Pat has an awesome way above to fill the vac hose. For me, the skimmer and return are 40 ft away from each other so it's too much PITA. I drop the vac head to the bottom of the deep end like I'm vacuuming. Then I 'hand over hand' the hose straight down with the rest of it still laying on the patio. When i get to the other end I pause for a second with the cuff about a foot above the water and water will flow out of the top. Then I stab either the skimmer pipe or my skimmer plate that can be used over the skimmer basket.

Click this link for an idea. There are 6 or so standard sizes and all you need is your skimmer basket width to find the right one. These are great with heavy debris because you don't risk clogging the plumbing with leaves or such. When it's only pollen/sand, I don't bother with the plate.

snerts said:

Im about to replace the motherboard on a pentair easy touch system. After connecting all of the inputs to the motherboard, does it need to be reprogrammed? This is my first time tackling this motherboard problem.

Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

Novice here, buy I have your system. One all leads are reconnected you will have to reprogram your settings on the easy touch. When in Auto mode your pump will defer to those settings. It is a bit of a pain to program on the small screen of the easy touch. You might want to add a screenlogic transmitter (if they still sell it) to your com port and do it over wifi from your laptop or PC.

Mstrlucky74 said:

What?

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That your PB is going with Latham composite for any reason besides it is more profitable.

Make no mistake. If concrete or steel was twice as profitable, they'd have 12 reasons why you didn't want composite.

thefloatqueen said:

that’s just semi-cheating! But if you’re gonna do all that anyways, why not remove the cover?

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We have 5 seasons here - spring, summer, fall, winter and then pollen season. Pine pollen season will be starting soon. It's bad here. You could wash your car and then come back 5 minutes later and it won't look like you washed it. The cover stays on until the pine pollen subsides. Otherwise I would need to backflush daily. Then the maple trees drop their twirly helicopter seeds and the sweetgums drop their pollen heads. The cover stays on to try to keep the pool clean.

abgoldberg said:

The guy I talked to said it could just crack at any time and lead to draining your pool if no one's around to see and turn off the water.

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Andrew,

While that statement is true, it could also apply to a brand new filter.. It is just a fact of life..

Most filter leaks start off as very small leaks at the equipment pad.. They can go on for months... These leaks cannot be repaired, so obviously at the first sign of a leak, the filter should be replaced.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks.

Go get as many different blue tiles you can find that are in stock in your area. Put them on top of your wall. See which one looks best in real life. I am thinking at least 4 tiles of each color will work best. This is really the only way to pick the best one for you.

The smaller the width of the "hardscape" the more chance of getting the "softscape" aka grass and dirt getting into the pool.

You can put down artificial turf but I will tell you that stuff gets HOT so must wear something on your feet to walk on it.

PoolStored said:

You have lots of bids, with widely varying sizes, types, makes and models.

If you are going with Hayward….
Insist on a C-4030 or larger filter
Insist on a triton vs900 or 950 pump
Get the largest gas heater you can afford. I’d get a 400K BTU

On the chlor sync, or any other SWG, make sure to get a 40K cell or larger.

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Thank you very much.

Newdude said:

You spelled 'invented BS reasons because one particular way was more profitable' wrong.

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What?

readi said:

I also have Aqualink RS4 panel (small one) inside the home and hardwired, but it never turned on. This is our first home and first pool, still trying to figure out one thing at a time.

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I am wondering if the inside panel is connected to the board. The only way to tell is to take the panel off of the front of the outside cabinet and see what is connected.

You mentioned that you have a spa side remote, that is hardwired to the board, the antenna is hardwired to the board.
What type of pump do you have?
There is a RED connector on the board. It can only handle 2 devices. Each device has 4 wires connected to the 4 screws on the RED connector. Some boards have 1 RED connector, some have 2 and some have an extension to another multiplex board that has 4 more RED connectors. We need to see what you have.

It is best to take some photos when you have the cover off and it is easier for us to view what you have.
Also take a photo of your equipment pad.

readi said:

Tried the wifi method and it was not listing the iAqualink device in my wifi list on phones (Apple and samsung) or ipad. For wps method, after i try to sync it, the yellow light keeps flashing forever in the iAqualink device. I don't know if the antenna is faulty or is there any other issue with it. I have a router with extensions set up closer to the pool equipment. Appreciate further help to troubleshoot to check what could be wrong with iAqualink device, like where and what to start looking for?

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The information provided was directly from Jandy tech support. If neither worked, then call the number at the bottom to discuss it with them directly.

Do you have a 2.0 antenna or 3.0. It should state it on the cover.

Mstrlucky74 said:

Wall system is the patented Latham composite saltwater pool with deck supports, switched to these as the steel walls are now rusting out over time with the salt systems ,stopped using the 10inch concrete walls as they have no footings or deck supports and they do get cracks.

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You spelled 'invented BS reasons because one particular way was more profitable' wrong.

Welcome to TFP! Yes, in your case it sounds like you are using the standard vacuum head with a long vacuum hose right? So one end of the hose goes into the skimmer hole and the other connects to the vacuum head. They key tip BEFORE connecting the end into the skimmer is to push all the air out of the hose so that's it's mostly full of water first. To do that, I lay the hose across the surface of the water and take the vacuum head end to a return jet where the water comes out (your pump is on). Hold the end of the hose against that return jet to "prime" it full of water. Once the hose is full of water, connect it to the vacuum head and let that sit under the water. Then go to the skimmer and put that end of the hose into the skimmer opening.

That's it! Start vacuuming. If you still have questions let us know.

PoolSouthpaw said:

I'm thinking it might be a good idea to drain just a bit more water and get the salt level a bit lower (perhaps a bit below 3000), since the chemicals I expect to add are likely to increase the salt level.

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Don't worry about it. You needed a big drop and there was no choice but to drain. From this moment forward, you will be forever adding salt, ch and cya because of the copies amount of rainfall you get.

PoolSouthpaw said:

The pH needs to be around 7.6, but to deal with the high TA, I'm thinking I'll have to go lower for short periods of time.

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Any 7 is fine. Including 7.99999999 where mine sits and stays and never needs adjusting.

But it's up to you if you want to force the TA down sooner than it comes down on its own. I see no point because if you actively work to lower it, you still have to maintain the Ph between now and when the TA would have come down on its own.

It's one thing for people with sky high TA fill water, but pointless for you IMO.

However, if you want at it anyway, maintain a low 7 ph and then once the TA is 60 it 70, switch to a high 7 Ph.

PoolSouthpaw said:

I want to get the CYA around 60-70. I'm thinking 30 is too low, especially since I have a SWG.

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Overnight Chlorine Loss Test before any significant raise of CYA. Even if you passed one 3 weeks ago.

Then have at it, creeping to target. You have plenty of time to take your time before the UV is insane and you need the CYA.

PoolSouthpaw said:

I normally keep my CH around 400-450. That is also what PoolMath recommends, since I have a pebble finish on my pool. Is it ever advisable to keep CH on the low side?

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Again, if anything you will likely learn you want it on the high side so that when the rain diluted you, it's still ok. Seriously, you can have 60 inches of rain when most pools are 60 inch average depth. Divide your total.chemicals by 12 and thats your monthly add.

But test of course because the montly rainfall fluctuates. And yeah. Once you have a real good grip on this all, I'd want 10 to 20% high CH / salt / CYA to buy more time.

pjt said:

What's the purpose of the check valve between the pump and filter? A 3-way diverter would be ideal there.

They didn't plumb the IntelliChlor cell (or a dummy cell until you're ready for salt). They also didn't install a heater bypass.

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So when I ask about it, can you explain why the 3 way is better than check valve between pump and filter? Thanks!

Welcome to TFP!

pjt said:

What's the purpose of the check valve between the pump and filter? A 3-way diverter would be ideal there.

They didn't plumb the IntelliChlor cell (or a dummy cell until you're ready for salt). They also didn't install a heater bypass.

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This is helpful, thank you! I snapped the photo before they were totally finished. An intellichlor will be included so will confirm why they didn’t plumb that (builder did mention something was on back order and coming in today). There also should be a heated bypass so they’ll have to fix that. I’ll inquire about the check vs 3 way. Thanks!