Leaky Pipes

Is this the rest of your pump and plumbing?
View attachment 645103 if it's leaking where the gray fitting is theaded into the pump, you should be able to undo that Union and remove the threaded fitting. Use a PVC pipe sealant and reinstall the fitting. Check out the section in this article on assembling threaded joints:

Yes, that's the picture. Thanks so much d r the help, I will try that!

cordless vs corded robot vac

I posted yesterday about suggestions for cordless, but have since read a bit more and now wondering if corded is actually a better option? I know the cords can get frustrating, but it sounds like the corded work better, hold up better, more power etc. As far as climbing walls of an above ground pool, will any of the lower price models do this? And I don't think I quite understand how these work actually. Do they stay in the water all the time, even while swimming? Do the cords tend to get tangled on the stairs? Thanks!
The cordless need to be charged before (each) use and so I assume you remove it from the pool each time. I read about one that has a charging station that sits on the edge of the pool, it was pretty pricey though.

Mine is corded and doesn’t seem to tangle. It tangles less than the pressure side cleaner I had, but the robot has a swivel cable on the robot side so I assume that helps.
  • Like
Reactions: spf30

Salt Generator issue

Welcome to TFP.

The Aquatrol does not care if the pump is plugged into it to operate the SWG cell.

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
  • Report all readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
  • Like
Reactions: C0d3Sp4c3

Helpppppp

Unless someone sees an issue with your MPV then that might be your last resort. Did you ever try the MPV on recirculate? Can you put it on waste or backwash and pull a prime?
I tried bypassing filter, recirc…..waste and backwash but nothing different. I’ll pull pump apart tomorrow morning and see. Maybe something is stuck in there. Thank you all for these suggestions. I’m just praying it’s not an underground problem

New above ground pool

Just got - Bestway Platinum Series Power Steel 20' x 12' x 48" Oval Pool Set from Costco.

Im working on leveling an area and bringing in sand. How is everyone setting up there base to support the pool?

I have delt with sand wash out in past years do to the kids splashing.

Last year I did sand then a tarp on top of it but I have read you can do sand then 4x8 sheets of foam board then a tarp.

Any input would be awesome!

drain/clean/refill or treat?

We usually just drain, clean (power wash), and refill the pool, but this time I did the closing differently:
  • Closed as soon as we stopped using it while chlorine levels were still high.
  • Used new Meyco pool cover.
  • Tried to clean the pool as much as possible.
I also have some new equipment this year:
  • New pump (see signature).
  • New sand.
  • PROPER amount of sand (we previously thought we had an S-200 and filled it with an inappropriate amount of sand, just 200 lbs, but now I think I have it right and used all new sand and 300 lbs of it).
  • Cordless Robotic Pool Vacuum, Self-Parking Technology, Portable, Ideal for Above-Ground Flat Pool up to 645 Sq.ft
  • InoKraft Cordless Pool Vacuum Cleaner, Rechargeable, Handheld Pool Vacuum for Above Ground and Inground Pools, Transparent Head, 59" Extendable Pole, for Leaves, Debris, Shallow Steps, Light Yellow
Unfortunately, all my equipment is fairly low end. I'm hoping it is sufficient to clean the pool without needing to drain. Any tips? I'd like to avoid having to waste hours draining, power washing, and refilling this year. I temporarily removed part of the cover to take pictures of the water condition and accumulation of debris on the deep end of the pool (this is where most of the debris accumulates and where most of the algae starts to bloom). Plus the water here is the deepest so the presence of floating algae is easiest to detect. Tips/suggestions?

View attachment 645123
View attachment 645124
View attachment 645125

I guess the good news is I can easily see to the bottom of the deep end of the pool, which is typically impossible with any significant amount of algae bloom. Should I add some chlorine to the pool just in case? Obviously the pump would not be running, but I assume it will dissolve anyway throughout the pool..
It doesn’t looks much worse than mine and I never drained it when opening. If you add chlorine, rush it around good. Just start scooping junk out and see how it goes. I think I used 3 gallons of chlorine to get mine back in shape this year.

How to Fix Severe Algae and Cloudiness After 1 Year Without Vacuuming

Hey folks! I'm in my second year trying to wrangle my above ground pool and in two weeks I haven't been able to get it clean. It's been a big of a saga trying so far, and I don't have a proper log, but I'll try to relate things as best I can. Sorry for not having more accurate info, but hopefully it's enough to get some advice. I've really appreciated the info you guys have on here, BTW! You seem to be maybe the best resource on the internet for pool management.

So I opened the pool last year somewhere around April, it is a 4500 galon pool and came with a ( supposedly ) 1000gph pump, we used cholrine tablets in a floater and dichlore ( clorox 6 in 1 pool shock xtra blue ) shock about weekly. Things went roughly fine for a little bit, but after we finally figured out how to get the vacuum hose and vacuum that we had attached, the pump didn't actually have enough suction to vacuum anything up hardly at all. I think we had a dud pump, but we didn't know exactly what was going on.

Things got super busy and we couldn't manage anything with the pool, other than I kept the chlorine level basically OK as little bits of debris accumulated in the pool since our pump wasn't really working. At the end of the pool season I stopped keeping up on the chlorine levels and it accumulated algae and more debris all the way up until about a couple weeks ago when I started trying to clear it back out again.

This year, the plan was to get a better pump, with a sand filter, and use an SWG instead of doing chlorine tablets and dichlor shock.

The new pump is way better than the old, but I'm still struggling to get the pool non-cloudy now.

So it started off incredibly green and cloudy. You could hardly see maybe 6 inches through the water. I got the pump running and the vacuum hooked, up, but it's been quite difficult to vacuum thoroughly when you can't actually see what you're vacuuming, but I did what I could.

The vacuum and filter pulled lots of thick green algae out, and we started putting the dichlor shock in to kill the algae. I started off relatively conservative and did a half bag ( which is about a double dose for the size of the pool ), I did that for the first couple nights or so, with a little bit of vacuuming.

A couple days in, I put enough salt in the pool to get it to about 3000 ppm and I started running the SWG ( Intex Krystal Clear 4500 gal model ) on turbo mode to help produce some extra chlorine.

It got a little better but was still green, and the free chlorine would be at 0 every morning, so I started adding more dichlor at a time, doing 1 bag per night. After about a week I had put about 5 bags of dichlor into the pool, and it had gotten it not green anymore ( partly because that Clorox stuff has annoying blue powder in it 🙄 ), but still had a 0 free chlorine as the total chlorine continued to rise, and it was still just about as opaque and cloudy as before, even though it wasn't green.

Now is a good time to note I'm using these test strips. I have seen on the forum that test strips are generally inaccurate by all accounts, I had just been hoping to avoid having to buy a $100+ test kit when I had seen a lot of people getting away with test strips at least for above ground pools it seemed.

Anyway, at this point I was trying to figure out what to do because I couldn't keep any free chlorine in the pool. I assumed that there was still algae and other contaminants using up the chlorine. I was aslo still having a hard time vacuuming. Combined with not being able to see, I was finding that a leaf canister was absolutely essential, but I didn't have one. I kept trying to vacuum, but the minimal inline leaf catcher right before the pump inlet kept getting clogged, so I couldn't keep vacuuming. So I had to wait for a leaf canister to come in the mail before I could really vacuum.

At this point I found TFP's SLAM protocol. I figured I probably had to get the free chlorine up long enough to break down the chloramines and hopefully clear the water. I made sure the PH was balanced, though my total alkalinity was a little low. I poured a half gallon of 10% sodium hypochlorite bleach, in the morning it finally manged to have 0.5 ppm of cholorine according to the test strips and I think the total chlorine was somewhere between 10 and 15 ppm. For the next four days or so I ended up putting about 3 gallons of bleach into the pool, and I managed to get the free chlorine up to about 3 or 4 ppm. But what was confusing me is that as soon as I added more bleach, the test strips seemed to indicate an immediate increase in total chlorine, getting it up to 20 ppm and beyond I think because it started bleeding brown at the edges of the test square when it only went up to a bright teal color. But the free chlorine would never get above 5 no matter how much bleach I added.

At this point I realized that there was still some algea on the bottom of the pool, ( that I couldn't see ), that I was able to pick up with the vacuum, and I figured that was also probably using up the chlorine. I did my best to vacuum it out, but still didn't have a leaf canister so could only do so much.

Then I started adding calcium hypochlorite. Over 3 days I ended up putting 6 bags of calcium hypochlorite in there, which seems like a ridiculous amount for the size of the pool, and maybe wasn't a good idea, but I wasn't exactly sure what to do to raise the FC enough to hopefully break down the chloramines.

Finally, I got a leaf canister and I've been able to vacuum up almost all of the maor leaves and debris, and I don't get any green at all over the whole surface of the pool when vacuuming anymore.

At this point the pool is clearing up a very little bit each day. I have completely stopped adding any chlorine for about 5 days and the free chlorine has dropped from what looked like 5 ppm to about 1-3, while the total chlorine is still steady at the top of the scale at 20 ppm, though with a little less brown around the edges, now it's mostly just teal.

I'm suspicious that my test strips were getting bleached out so that even if the free chlorine is going up I can't tell, and they have probably been seriously confusing me.

The pool is getting clearer very slowly, I can barely see about 1/2 way down through the water ( which is about 4 feet deep ). I have been backwashing the filter at least 2 times every day, and usually much more as I run the vacuum and backwashed it every time I vacuumed and when the suction was reduced during vacuuming. When backwashing in the morning I still see some brown-ish water come through the pipe which seems a good sign that the filter is doing its job anyway.

Finally, some last relevant points:

I have added 4 doses of water clarifier over the last 9 days or so to attempt to help the cloudiness.

It has been raining a _lot_ throughout this whole process. There have only been about 4-5 sunny days in the last 15 or so, and we've had some very heavy rain as well as hail. Many of the days that weren't rainy were at least cloudy.

The pool doesn't have any CYA in it, or at least it's probably less than 10 ppm. I saw the instructions for adding CYA mentioned that it can take a while to dissolve and that you want to avoid backwashing your filter for a week or so after adding it, so I wasn't sure if I should add it when I'm trying to get the pool setup as quickly as possible and I needed to run the filter around the clock to clear it. So I was kind of hoping that the sun wouldn't bite me too badly with the largely cloudy / rainy weather. I do wonder if the lack of sun is also contributing to the fact that the chloramines won't go away.

---

Sorry for the rambling explanation, I hope that's enough info to get at least some hints or guidance.

Omnilogic retro fit upgrade and heater connection

When I manually put it on the pool or spa it comes on.. under the aqua logic system it was program to heat pool and spa…however we have never in all the year ever heated the pool with this heater only the spa.I have Solar for that
Okay, that confirms the heater works.

But your remote control wires are not working. Nothing wrong with your OmniPL if when you hold the wires together the heater does not go on. That is all the OmniPL relay does.

Check the continuity of each wire from end to end and make sure they are intact.

Bought new house with pool, sequence of fixing the problem

SForget about turnover and run the pump to accomplish tasks as outlined earlier.

If you are running the pump then you want to have chlorine generation. That way you can lower the SWCG output %.
Isn't my SWCG working the same if I run it at 50% uptime for 12 hours versus 25% uptime for 24 hours? From what I understand, it is either on or off, is that correct or is there different energy applied depending on the % of generation?

Also, it would be very helpful to show all the equipment you have.
Please fill out your signature -- Create Your Signature - Further Reading
Thanks for the suggestion, I updated my signature.

So my test results from today:
FC 8.5ppm - not sure how it got this high, it was 5.5ppm a few days ago
pH 7.8
TA 90ppm
CYA 40ppm
Calcium 350ppm
Water temp: 72F

I got in my TF-Pro salt test kit so I was able to test the salt which came back at 2200ppm, which is essentially what my digital pH/salt meter tests as well. It's interesting that the trisensor would fluctuate between 2500 to 3000 when I check on iAqualink. I recalibrated my Trisensor to 2.2gpl, turned off the SWG, and added 40 pounds of salt so far and will need probably another 50 pounds to salt to get to right around 3000ppm per poolmath.

I also found this article online about CYA/FC. What do you think about the information in this article? Chlorine, pH and Cyanuric Acid Relationships
This seems to argue that I shouldn't bring my CYA up to 60-90ppm and keeping it around 40ppm seems to be reasonable. What are most people with SWG shooting for in terms of target FC?

Thanks!

Helpppppp

How is the multiport on the top of the filter set?

We still need full pics.

Attachments

  • IMG_1305.jpeg
    IMG_1305.jpeg
    576.5 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1306.jpeg
    IMG_1306.jpeg
    1.1 MB · Views: 14
  • IMG_1307.jpeg
    IMG_1307.jpeg
    817.2 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_1308.jpeg
    IMG_1308.jpeg
    501.3 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_1309.jpeg
    IMG_1309.jpeg
    932.7 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_1310.jpeg
    IMG_1310.jpeg
    1,020.7 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1311.jpeg
    IMG_1311.jpeg
    899.7 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_1312.jpeg
    IMG_1312.jpeg
    930.4 KB · Views: 9
  • IMG_1313.jpeg
    IMG_1313.jpeg
    931.3 KB · Views: 12

IMG_1313.jpeg

Filter