Intex Pools - Further Reading

Intex makes popular Above Ground Pools.

Leg Supports

Intex recommends using pressure treated boards instead of pavers to support the legs on their rectangular pools. The support for the legs needs to be large enough so the legs do not hang off the sides of the support, and so the legs have room to spread out as the pool is filled.[1]

How to Prevent Intex Pool from Rusting

Rust is a common problem with Intex and other above ground pools. AGPs are typically outdoors, and are exposed to the elements, and moisture. As such, rust will form. Its inevitable, however, we can slow down the process a bit and take precautions.

It seems the rust forms on the inside of the T's and legs. The coating Intex puts on the outside helps, but if the inside is not coated, then it will rust.[2]

Some of the things that members have tried are described below.

Grease your Intex connections

Grease everywhere that the poles connected to avoid rust. There is apparently a YouTube video that shows this technique.[3]

Spray with Rust-Oleum

Spraying everything with 2 coats of Rust-Oleum.[4]

The best way to prevent it is to coat the inside and edges of the uprights and fittings before installing them. Dip them in some good enamel paint and hang them to dry and them assemble it and touch up any scratched areas.[5]

Sealing the Legs

  • Use silicone to seal the bottom of the legs where they join the cups.
  • Use 2" self-fusing silicone tape to wrap the top of the legs where they connect to the joints (being sure to completely cover the holes/pins).

Flaps to Prevent Water Splashing Into the T-Connectors

Cut a flap of vinyl and glue it to the inside of the pool (being sure to also glue it down to the vinyl hanging over the top rail) and then hang it over the edge. The flap hanging over could easily be secured to the leg with a zip tie, or even a magnet.

Intex Pool Flaps.jpg

Flaps were patterned and then cut out of vinyl coated PVC fabric and glued with HH-66 vinyl cement. The black "buttons" are strong neodimium magnets. They came epoxy coated but I'll probably use the leftover Rust-Oleum I used on the support poles to paint them gray as well.[6]

The bottom of the flaps are square and rolled underneath. This forms two funnels on the sides of each flap that blocks water from reaching the t-connectors and allows any water coming in on the sides to flow out the bottom. The magnet holds the folded-in corners to the upright.

The inside of the pool is now completely sealed, no water can splash through the openings and get into the t-connectors now. Of course this mod depends on the through-the-wall skimmer I had added previously to ensure the water level has an overflow point to prevent accidental overfilling.

Put foundation coating on the side of the pool

Put foundation coating on the side of the pool before putting dirt around it. Use a foundation coating, like Henry’s, rated for steel and all other types of metal. If you have sand on the bottom you need to put some material that will stop wash out.[7]

You can also use flashing tape for roofs. Basically just a super sticky thick tape. It’s very expensive.

The Henry’s stuff you can paint on and it gives you some extra protection.

Intex XTR

The XTR pool has two big advantages over the regular Ultra Frame and Prism Frame. The XTR pools are powder coated on both the inside and outside, but even more importantly than that is the fact that the XTR pools also use galvanized steel. Galvanized steel is much less prone to rusting and even if the powder coat is scratched or damaged and water and salt and chlorine is able to get to the bare metal it will be much less likely to rust due to the galvanization.[8]

While you can coating the inside of the metal parts on Ultra Frame and Prism Frame pools to help protect the bare metal there and while that certainly can’t hurt, in the end it may not help because those pools are not made with galvanized steel. If there is a little scratch or damage to the coating anywhere that water and salt and chlorine can get to the bare metal then it will start rusting very quickly and easily.

Ultra Frame

U Support End Cap

U-Support end cap for rectangular frame & oval frame pools.[9]

10935, U-Support End Cap for Rectangular Ultra Frame Pools

Intex Hoses

Intex Pipe Transition using GAME Adapters

Intex uses two hose sizes, at least here in the US. Many smaller pools and pumps use smaller 1.25 inch hoses. These hoses are usually clear and connected to the pool or pumps with hose clamps. The larger pools and pumps use larger 1.5 inch hoses. These hoses are usually white and have fittings that screw on to attach to the pool or pumps.[10]

When you order Intex equipment separately you may find your pool has the 1.25 inch hose connections and your new pump and filter have 1.5 inch hose connections. They do sell adapters that will allow you to connect the two together.

You can find “GAME 4560 40mm to 1 1/2 Inch Conversion Kit (For Intex & Bestway Pools)“ on Amazon.[11]

Intex Pump

For pump models[12] SF80110-2, SF70110-2, and SF70110-2:

You set the number of hours for the pump to run. The number displayed is hours per day. The next day it will turn on at the same time you started it and run for the set number of hours. There is no clock to set.

To change, hold the lock button until it beeps, then the controls are unlocked. Press the time button to select time from 1-12 hours per day, or "FP" for continuous pumping. It locks and applies settings after 10 seconds, so you always need to hold the unlock button until it beeps before you can adjust the hours to run beginning at the current time.

Bypassing the digital timer and integrating into the smart home

Intex 16" Sand Filter Pump (Model SF60110-2) - Bypassing the digital timer and integrating into the smart home describes how one member connected control of the Intex pump to his smart home system.

Intex Salt System

Intex has a good video on YouTube on how to install the Intex Salt Water System.

Also see Intex SWG.

Cutting a hole for a 1.5” Bulkhead

Cutting the hole is a bit nerve wracking, but in the end it’s really not that bad. If you are doing it with the pool full it helps to have a helper inside the pool.[13]

First, double check to make sure that everything is ready and within arm’s reach. You’ll want to be able to grab what you need quickly since you will be losing some water during parts of this process. Also, make sure that there are no tools or anything on the ground near the pool that can’t get wet. You might also want to wear shorts and take off your shoes.

Turn off the pump and make sure the suction ports are closed off, otherwise when you disconnect the tube from the return water will flow through the pump and drain from the pool.

Next use the little black rubber cap to plug the return from the inside of the pool and disconnect the hose and put it on the ground. Some water will drain out of the hose, but you shouldn’t lose too much. At this point things should be stable. You won’t be losing any water from the hose and the little black cap inside the pool is preventing water from draining through the return.

Take the rubber gasket off of the new bulkhead and hold it in place around the existing return, then use a sharpie to trace around the inside of the gasket. This will be the hole that you will cut out. Put the gasket back on the threaded part of the new bulkhead. When it is installed the gasket goes inside the pool.

Make sure that the new valve is closed because you’ll want it to stop the water as soon as you get the new bulkhead installed.

Now, take a deep breath because this is when things start getting a little hectic. But remember that losing some water isn’t the end of the world and it’s not like you need to rush. Work quickly, but carefully and it’s ok if water spills out as you work.

This is also the point where it’s helpful to have a helper inside the pool. Have the helper hold a small Tupperware container over the existing return bulkhead. As you start cutting the liner the suction from the water leaving the pool will hold the Tupperware against the liner and slow the amount of water leaving the pool. This will make it easier to cut since you’ll be able to see what you’re doing. There will still be some water leaking out, but not a lot.

Use a sharp utility knife to cut the hole. It actually cuts very easily. Try to cut just on the outside of the line you made. It doesn’t have to be perfect as the gasket is pretty thick, but try to go carefully and do a good job.

Once the hole is completely cut out and your helper is still holding the Tupperware over the opening there shouldn’t be too much water leaking out. But this next part is where you’ll lose the most water. When you and your helper are ready, do the following:

Remove the tupperware and the old return bulkhead. This will fully open the hole under water, so be prepared for a large amount of water to be coming out. Grab the new bulkhead and push it through from inside the pool. Have your helper block the opening with their hand. This should stop a significant amount of the water draining out, but there will still be some leaking out around the new bulkhead.

Grab the large nut and screw it onto the new bulkhead. Depending on how well your helper is sealing the opening with their hand this should stop most or all of the water from draining out. Install the new vent into the top of the bulkhead and the new valve. At that point your helper can remove their hand.

Verify that there are no leaks, then attach the hose to the bottom of the new valve and you are good to go.