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SJPoe
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Sta-rite Max E Therm 333HD

wireform
1poolman1 said:
I would change the thermister. This company has good parts for much less:

Forgot to ask, is there automation involved?
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Yes there's automation but I disconnected the heater wire and twisted both together bypassing the eztouch.
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Review | Aqua Products EVO 614 iQ

Sotex
swimmingbuffalo said:
I own the Evo 604 and am running into this problem now - conveniently right before the swimming season begins!

The LED lights and button work for the cleaning mode but the Power LED no longer illuminates and I get no movement when trying to run a cleaning cycle. Seems like no power being delivered at all and I’m fairly convinced it’s the control unit.

Did you have any success reaching out to their support? Approximately how long did it take to get a replacement?
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Try [email protected] or [email protected]
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Did AA treatment, do I need to use Polyfill?

M
Hi all, a few months back when it was cold I did an ascorbic acid treatment and it was very successful in removing iron staining I had which formed from a hurricane dumping red dirt into my pool. During the AA process, I used Jacks magic Purple Stuff as I have a SWG. Now that we are past the pollen season, I cleaned filters a few weeks back and am seeing microscopic floating particles all over the surface of the pool. Too small to effectively take a photo with.

I am not sure if this is another type of pollen falling from mother nature or perhaps the iron that was lifted from the AA treatment. I read about using Polyfill, not sure if that is what I need to do to properly filter out the metal, if that is what this is. I am not sure if using polyfill is a requirment of the AA process.

Pool is 10 months old so I have not been through the full pollen season to know if these microscopic particles are normal for this time of year, but seem too small for my filter to remove. Appreciate any guidance.

All chems are 100% perfect, very blue pool, no staining.
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Help with high CYA

PoolStored
You need a good test kit…link—>Test Kits Compared

Why? Pool store testing is notoriously wrong, and your test kit is insufficient to manage the water. Giving advice on wrong test results, we can do more harm than good.

Get a kit ordered. Add 5ppm of liquid chlorine per day until it arrives.

When it comes, post results! We'll get you going.

When it comes, do the CYA test starting at #8 here:
www.troublefreepool.com

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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Review | Aqua Products EVO 614 iQ

Sotex
swimmingbuffalo said:
I own the Evo 604 and am running into this problem now - conveniently right before the swimming season begins!

The LED lights and button work for the cleaning mode but the Power LED no longer illuminates and I get no movement when trying to run a cleaning cycle. Seems like no power being delivered at all and I’m fairly convinced it’s the control unit.

Did you have any success reaching out to their support? Approximately how long did it take to get a replacement?
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Yes! I got a replacement unit in about a week.
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Tested my two fill water options with Taylor K-2006-SALT - thoughts?

H
PoolStored said:
You are correct.

We lower pH to 7.2 or so with acid, that will also lower TA, but likely not by 10, but something smaller. Aerate. When pH rises to 7.5, lower it again to 7.2, which will also lower TA a bit. It may take several cycles of lowering TA by 10.

Using 30K pool, If your pH is 7.9 to start, that first addition might get TA to drop by 10, but when pH rises to 7.5, the addition of acid to get to 7.2 will only lower TA by 5. The reason we use the cycle from 7.2 to 7.5 or so is because CO2 outgasses the fastest when pH is low.

I just measure in how long it takes to lower it by 10. I don't count the pH cycles, or how long it takes for the pH to rise.

I can lower TA by 10 in 12 hours. May take a few cycles. The 10 in two hours, include pH back to normal levels.
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I see, makes sense! thank you

So, if I am starting with TA of 260, I will be fighting this thing for daaaaaaays to get it down in the 100s, right? holy Crud
I assume this will only be an issue after the first time I fill the pool, as subsequent fill top offs will only increase it by a bit.
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Why didn’t you all tell me about the Wall Whale?

1
toddclare said:
Oh wait… you did!:party:

Got mine a couple days ago and took it out to the pool to just see how it worked, without the time or energy to brush the whole pool.

I brushed the whole pool. I figured it would make a small difference and maybe encourage me to brush more often, but it really was a different and much easier experience!

The actual brush itself is… fine… but I’m already looking on how to pull the tail off and put it onto a brush that better fits my pool curves and corners. Hmmm…
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Wall Whale Kit – GABco Products

www.wallwhale.com www.wallwhale.com
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Tested my two fill water options with Taylor K-2006-SALT - thoughts?

PoolStored
You are correct.

We lower pH to 7.2 or so with acid, that will also lower TA, but likely not by 10, but something smaller. Aerate. When pH rises to 7.5, lower it again to 7.2, which will also lower TA a bit. It may take several cycles of lowering TA by 10.

Using 30K pool, If your pH is 7.9 to start, that first addition might get TA to drop by 10, but when pH rises to 7.5, the addition of acid to get to 7.2 will only lower TA by 5. The reason we use the cycle from 7.2 to 7.5 or so is because CO2 outgasses the fastest when pH is low.

I just measure in how long it takes to lower it by 10. I don't count the pH cycles, or how long it takes for the pH to rise.

I can lower TA by 10 in 12 hours. May take a few cycles. The 10 in two hours, include pH back to normal levels.
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Sta-rite Max E Therm 333HD

1
wireform said:
Beginning season had trouble wouldn't reach desired pool temp but then it was good for about ten days.I guess it's what I have going on the last 2 days. Water temp 75ish cycles on and off can't get the pool to get higher. Cycles several times on and off but at a point it throws a service light but nothing else lit on the back of the board. I changed the thermal regulator in the manifold for the heck of it ,wasn't expecting it to do anything. Manometer shows good pressure before the valve, never drops below the 4" wc which is minimum. Manifold side I can't stabilize it's all over the place. Short cycles non stop 1 min on then off again. Any help, thanks, Allan.

Forgot to mention I checked if thr heat exchanger is leaking but no water out of the bottom left screw....
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I would change the thermister. This company has good parts for much less:

Forgot to ask, is there automation involved?
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100% Silicone for Step Jet Returns - Says no Underwater Use

G
So is the worry with the stuff I bought not that it's not going to be effective, but that it contains anti-mildew / mold inhibitors? Is that an issue for people, or just aquatic life?

I did some more searching and found this in stock nearby: Silicone Ultra All-Purpose Premium Waterproof Sealant Aquarium Safe | DAP Global

Would this be better than my original one? Means another trip but I'll go if the original isn't the right thing.

Thanks for your help.
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Help with high CYA

T
Texas Splash said:
Welcome to TFP! :wave: The way to lower CYA (if it's really too high) is to exchange water. Proper water testing is a priority though. How are you testing the water? Also, what type of pool do you have? Your signature is blank. I'll post some links below to help.
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I filled in the signature let’s see if it works. And I’m using the cheap Lowe’s Test Kit and the CYA is higher than the reading it provides, when I took it to Leslie’s I believe it was around 120.
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Multi Port Valve Issue

1
0xblurz said:
Hi!

New to owning a pool. After opening the pool I was not getting good pressure out of 2/3 jets. It looked like the spider gasket needed to be replaced, and seemed easy enough. But now my pool is not operating correctly. The pump fills with water for a few seconds and I get good pressure out of the jets, but then it stops and water empties out of the pump. Also - when screwing the lid back on, it struggles to fully close without me applying pressure to the top. The handle is also popping up when fully closed.

Any help would be great. Sorry if I did not do a good job explaining.
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It may not be anything to do with the valve. Check your skimmer weir. It may be stuck in the "up" position.
What lid "struggles to fully close?" The valve or the pump?
Changing the spider gasket should have no effect on the diverter assembly if it stayed in place when the assembly was installed.
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Tested my two fill water options with Taylor K-2006-SALT - thoughts?

H
PoolStored said:
pH side doesn't matter. We are trying to lower TA. So in 24 hours I can lower a TA of 120 to 100.
May take a few pH cycles to get there.
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thanks, but still doesn't make sense, why are we aerating the pool to lower TA instead of just adding MA to it? Lowering TA is doable with MA, right? the problem is that pH will also lower, and cannot be raised without also raising TA, and that's why we aerate, to raise pH without raising TA along with it, correct?
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Main filter pump breaker tripped

1
James L. said:
Thanks for your reply.
Yes, it's a GFCI double pole breaker. Indicator light on it is not blinking.
I have no problem carrying out your instructions (which are very clear).
Of the 3 possible problems you proposed, none of them is a bad pump relay. I only say this because another post mentioned a bad pump relay. Did you mean somewhere in your post that the pump relay could be bad, and I just misunderstood it?
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Extremely rare that a relay could cause a high-voltage breaker to trip, its not controlled/protected by that breaker, its a low-voltage device.
Easy way to tell is, after removing the high-voltage wires from the pump relay, swap the small relay wires that go to the board with one of the others, move #1 relay wire to socket #2 and push the #2 button to turn it on. What happens?
If, by some weird chance, it is a relay, they are actually inexpensive, you don't have to get one in a Pentair box. Omron G7L-2A-BUBJ-CB-DC24 General Purpose Relay With Test Button, Class B Insulation, Screw Terminal, Upper Bracket Mounting, Double Pole Single ThrowOmron G7L-2A-BUBJ-CB-DC24 General Purpose Relay, about $21.00.
Before moving anything, take a picture with your phone so you can return everything to its original state. I do that every time I work on wiring, just in case.
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Pool Finish and Color Viewing Room...PICTURES & details only please

G
Ellen M said:
View attachment 422866View attachment 422867View attachment 422868View attachment 422869
View attachment 422870View attachment 422871View attachment 422872
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Looks beautiful. My wife and I are considering this exact color. How's it been aging since install? Any issues with keeping it clean, ie higher maintenance.
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Zodiac Controller Issue

Lineman7
I'm back. Still fighting this controller. Still getting "fault unknown". I power it off at the breaker and back on and it'll clear and run for 4-6hrs, or overnight. I get up and it'll be "fault unknown". It's really blowing my mind. Even tried a new controller, same make and model.

Surely my control wiring isn't faulting. I look's good and it's only 10vdc.

Was thinking of wiping the slate clean and trying a Jandy SPEEDSET and new wiring. But I can't find any reviews for the SPEEDSET... anyone operating with one?
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Bench construction for automatic pool cover

M
DDUWE said:
I sure hope someone can help us. We hired a pool company to install an automatic pool cover. They installed the pool cover but would not install the
bench or construct the bench. It was in the contract that a bench was included to cover the pool cover when it was retracted. Now, my husband and I are left with the problem of how to construct the bench and still allow free movement of the pool cover. Has anyone constructed an automatic pool cover bench?
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Here are some basic instructions, maybe you can DIY or find a handyman
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Attachments

  • Housing-Drainage-Detail-Layout.pdf
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  • Redwood-Bench-Instructions-for-PCS.pdf
    320.9 KB · Views: 1
  • Wood-Bench-Install-Guide-7.18.18-1.pdf
    180.5 KB · Views: 0

100% Silicone for Step Jet Returns - Says no Underwater Use

1
gmason86 said:
Hey all,

The pool is undergoing a facelift this year: new liner, and I also had the steps reno'd.

One thing I want to do, just as an added precaution against any future potential leaks, is to seal around the return jets at the steps. I had been advised to do this previously when fixing an actual leak (where I sealed both sides of the jet as I'd dug out behind the steps) and was told any 100% silicone would do the trick.

Based on another thread on here, I bought GE Silicone 2, specifically: General PDP Template. I believe the official product page is: Advanced Silicone 2<sup>®</sup> Kitchen & Bath Sealant | GE Sealants

When I was at the store, I noticed this (and all the other brands of 100% silicone) say "Not for underwater/aquarium use" or words similar to that.

I'm confused... Why do these say they can't be used underwater, but the advice on here is to use 100% silicone. I trust you guys more, but hoping you could help me understand.

If this is the wrong product, can you point me in the direction of some better options please? I'm in Canada, if that changes anything.

Thanks so much.
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From Enviroliteracy.org:

Aquarium-Safe vs. Regular Silicone: What’s the Difference?​

The key distinction lies in the additives. Aquarium-safe silicone is specifically formulated without anti-mildew or mold inhibitors. These additives, while beneficial in bathrooms and kitchens, are highly toxic to fish and other aquatic life. Regular silicone often contains these harmful chemicals, making it unsuitable for aquarium use.

Try this as it is designed for underwater use:
www.ebay.com

100% Silicone RTV Aquarium/Terrarium/Habitat Safe Sealant/Adhesive DIY/Repair | eBay

ASi 10.2oz Aquarium Silicone. Available in 1, 3, 6 and multiple lots in Clear or Black. ASI Aquarium Silicone Sealant is a non-slump sealant and can be applied to vertical surfaces without flowing or sagging.
www.ebay.com
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Main filter pump breaker tripped

J
Thanks for your reply.
Yes, it's a GFCI double pole breaker. Indicator light on it is not blinking.
I have no problem carrying out your instructions (which are very clear).
Of the 3 possible problems you proposed, none of them is a bad pump relay. I only say this because another post mentioned a bad pump relay. Did you mean somewhere in your post that the pump relay could be bad, and I just misunderstood it?
Also, it could be a bad breaker ? Even though the light on the breaker is not lit?
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Repair or replace multi-port valve

1
exile said:
I replaced the sand in my sand filter and was surprised to find that, in the process, removing the multi-port was easy. Unusually easy. Basically, after I loosened the clamp, the valve basically lifted off like I was lifting a cup off the table.

Upon inspection, I discovered that the reason no effort was required was because the plastic is cleanly separated from the valve.
View attachment 643742View attachment 643743View attachment 643744
Turns out the plastic was well secured and tightly held in place on the lateral and took a little bit of prying to get it off. I don't think it was glued on to the lateral. It was just holding in place from inherent friction.
View attachment 643745
My thoughts were to just put it back in place and let the valve sit back in place. However, now that it's been removed once, the plastic piece does not hold in place. It freely drops down.
View attachment 643746

Is it possible (reasonable) to re-secure the plastic with glue and/or tape or do I have to get a brand new multi-port valve?
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That's the diffuser for the valve to evenly distribute incoming water over the sand bed. It may or may not have ever been glued to the valve body, but there looks like some residue of adhesive on both the valve and that part. Others are just "clicked" on.
Plast-Aid would probably successfully reattach it to the valve body. Just a small amount around the perimeter of the diffuser and at the center should do it.
If the valve is old, you may want to go ahead and replace it, then you won't worry about other parts going bad.
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