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iAqualink 3.0 dead....or it seems to be dead

1
Blaze70 said:
Short history, bought my house in July 2020, installed iAqualink 2.0 at that time. I was always having connection issues and calling Fluidra to get back online. In November 2021 they finally decided to send me a iAqualink 3.0 if I paid a professional company to install, so I did.

Late around February 2025, I started having connection issues again, and Fluidra blamed my internet connection, which was not the issue, and I never could get it to connect. So just let it ride with the settings I had already set. Decided to figure it out yesterday and this iAqualink 3.0 is dead...no lihgts of any kind, can't reset it....I mean DEAD. Are these things just this much junk? I mean, for 500 to 600 dollars, I figured they should last 10 to 12 years easily.

I get it, electronics die, but wow, for that much I can't stomach replacing every 2 to 3 years. I have called them back, but I am sure they will not help this time. Is there another wireless alternative to the iAqualink?
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Not without going to a completely different brand, like Pentair.
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Omnilogic options ?

1
njswimguy said:
Hi Everyone,

I have a 5 year old Omnilogic controller - which I normally love - which is now dead. Back in August we had what I can only assume was a lightning strike (thunderstorms went through and the Omni had no display). I spent $2500 to repair it, including replacing the MSP module and a power supply board. I also added a $400 Siemens surge protector to the panel to prevent it from happening again. When we winterized, we left the breaker off.

Today the guys opened the pool, and the Omni came up briefly (long enough for me to get an email about needing an update) and then it died. The guys said they were going to call out their automation guy to look at it (he's coming on Friday). When I looked, I turned on the breaker and within about 2 minutes I could smell burning electronics. I opened it up (thinking there may be a literal fire) and narrowed the burning to the big power supply in the upper right. (at least I think so)

Anyway - I really don't want to put more money into this thing. I'm frustrated.

Does anyone know if there is a substitute automation system I could install, ideally while using the existing Omnilogic "can" so I don't have to have an electrician re-wire everything? Maybe a different less powerful Hayward controller that would fit in there? I honestly don't have much - VS Pump, booster pump for polaris, salt cell, 1 valve for water feature, led lights and a heat pump. I also am a home automation guy, so I'm cool rolling my own automation with Z-Wave relays if needed. Also am comfortable doing both line voltage and low voltage wiring.

Any creative ideas? I'm tired of keeping my pool guy's BMW shiny. (LOL). Thanks all!
PS: or even a way I could buy Omnilogic parts direct and install myself?
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Here is one place that sells parts:

Hayward OmniLogic and OmniPL Automation System Parts

Hayward OmniLogic and OmniPL Automation System Replacement Parts
www.getpoolparts.com www.getpoolparts.com
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My Water Softener Adventure

D
proavia said:
Post a full set of current test results from your TF-100.
Don't forget to test the salt content with a drop based test.
Your PoolMath logs are over 7 months old.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temperature
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Will do soon! The pool is still essentially closed. The pump and filter are in my basement, the bottom is full of dead worms. I'll probably get it circulating by Memorial Day weekend. Then I can adjust the pH and TA and check the CYA.
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IMG_5623.jpeg

P
IMG_5623.jpeg

My Water Softener Adventure

D
Well, I'm a stubborn *******, so at the risk of prematurely destroying the resin beads, I decided to try anyway.

It works!
First, the water coming directly out of the unit has a calcium content less than 25ppm (the drop test starts magenta and goes blue with one drop).
Second, the calcium in the pool has dropped to near 200ppm.

There were some growing pains along the way.
At first it wasn't consuming salt. Oh no! But I also realized that there wasn't any liquid in the recharge drain line. Although my little pump was capable of pulling 2.7GPM through the nearly 200' of 1/2" line, it couldn't do that and recharge. So I started closing the return to the pool when I went to bed, and opening it first thing in the morning. The softener was set to recharge at 2AM, so it got to use all of that pump's output to recharge.
Shortly after that, my $50 Amazon Special pump died. It was probably only rated at a few hundred hours.
I replaced it with a brushless pump rated at 20k hours and 24h duty cycle.

I'm hoping in another week or so to drop below 100ppm, at which point, I'll probably stop.
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Riptide XP Pool Vacuum: !!WOW!!

P
Hammerhead also makes a battery operated one that includes the battery and charger. I think it is still around $1100. It is less heavy duty then the riptide. I have a LifePO4 battery from Amazon and a multi purpose charger conditioner. On a full charge, I can do about 4 cleaning (30 minutes run time each). The riptide is actually heavier than the battery. The reason I prefer the battery is that I don't have to be tethered to an outlet. After several trial and error, I only have to move my battery box 2 twice to reach 95 percent of the pool and without getting my feet wet.

I do understand that it might be an overkill for some folks. But it is so satisfying to see an equipment that actually will suck debris without rolling directly over it. The riptide is the land version of a powerful shop vac.
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Help Please - Aux Relays Not Working

8
Thanks @Jimrahbe for the detailed step by step guide I appreciate it.

Checked voltages of all three relays all have 120v at the line side. Flipped all three on one by one and tested the load side all of which have no voltage showing (0.11 or so).

Aux 1 is pool lights
Aux 2 is spa lights
Aux 3 is blower for spa

4 other relays have nothing coming in and no power to them from the breakers.

The “dip switches” I was referring to are the two ULN2803 relay driver Chips on the main board. They were $7 on Amazon for 10 of them and same night I had the issue there was lightning in the distance and some neighbors were talking about power surges. I took a shot here I know.

Here is a picture of inside my panel as well. Bunch of ants in there but do not see any frayed wires or burn marks on anything.

IMG_1260.jpeg
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SAND FILTER DEEP CLEANING QUESTION

PoolStored

Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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SAND FILTER DEEP CLEANING QUESTION

Traviz02
I have never done a deep clean (honestly didn't know i should be every year) my question is what is the best way to do this ? i've seen some use a filter degreaser that they put in the skimmer basket then run it into the filter and let it sit an hour and then i have also seen people take the top off of the filter and put a hose in and let the water run until clear ----which is the best course of action and also I have the dryden media glass instead of sand in my filter
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