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Fiberglass Pool Chemistry

C
I’m sure my chalkiness isn’t calcium scale but from what I’ve been reading/hearing (Orenda and River Pools) the white I’m seeing is actually a reaction inside of the gel coat with the calcium in the water. I’m just confused why TFP and others recommend such a high level of calcium if it’s a known issue. I’ve been working to get the level back down to help eliminate any further issues with the gel coat which is easy enough with 0ppm fill water. If it’s just a fill water issue in other parts of the country that’s fine and I’ll just ignore it moving forward.
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NEED POOL CLEAR QUICK

J
DanielleEllison said:
Just bought a fixer upper with a 50 year old pool that has not been taken care of for at least 10 years. It has never been resurfaced
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Looks like the pump and filter were replaced to sell the property.

The plaster is original from 50 years ago?

That's when they might have had asbestos in the plaster, so it might be possible but very unlikely.

Make sure that the chip out is done safely assuming asbestos might be in the plaster.
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Noob to the forum. Looking for CYA advice

PoolStored
Kaptain said:
Question about the test kit. I was comparing the k-2005 to the k-2006c, so correct me if I am wrong. The only differences that I can find is that the 2006c comes with the FAS-DPD kit (which I have ordered) and the bottles that the 2006c comes with are larger. It appears I can just buy the missing solutions.
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Yes, get this... Link--> SLAM Option
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Noob to the forum. Looking for CYA advice

K
TinFoilHat said:
You have apparently been rumbling along and getting lucky if you have no algae and have had no algae. Your FC is super low and if you really don't have any CYA in the water that is why the FC is disappearing so fast. You need to add granular CYA in a sock that is hung in front of a pool return so it can dissolve. Don't add anything to your skimmer. Dump the tabs RIGHT NOW and get 4 gallons of liquid chlorine. You can get it at Walmart. You probably need to put two gallons in right now and let it circulate. Then test 30 mins later to see where you are. Get in the habit of testing every morning so that you can get your FC back up to 6-8 ppm each day before the sun hits the pool for very long. You need a better test kit so view the following link. Also view the CYA/FC link to understand their relationship. You might also have algae that you can't see right now so you should do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test once you get chlorine in the pool. You can use the PoolMath app to calculate what your pool needs based on it's parameters and your other test readings.
Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels
Test Kits Compared
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
PoolMath
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Question about the test kit. I was comparing the k-2005 to the k-2006c, so correct me if I am wrong. The only differences that I can find is that the 2006c comes with the FAS-DPD kit (which I have ordered) and the bottles that the 2006c comes with are larger. It appears I can just buy the missing solutions.
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Stuck on cloudy?

PoolStored
You are not following the process. Print this out and keep it with you...Link-->SLAM Process
You need to keep the pump running 24/7.
You need to maintain SLAM FC, which at 40 is 16FC.
You are done with SLAM when
CC<=.5
Overnight chlorine loss is <=1 (link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test)
and pool is clear...like these: Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

Don't stop until you meet the criteria!
Full House Ok GIF
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Troubleshooting new Vingli

D
I have new Vingli pool vacuum. After a while it stops oscillating and just sits there. If I give it a nudge it may start up again, but only for a while. I believe it's supposed to oscillate so long as there is water flowing through it. I don't suspect low flow volume because when it's working it works quite vigorously. The regulator is turned to max. Maybe there are a number of things I can check?
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Pentair Intellibrite Replacement - dial controller

C
Hi guys,

My first LED light was a Hayward...was replaced in 2016 with a Pentiar Intellibrite Color 12V . This dial controller was installed at the time. The light is dead now so I have to replace it, but the 5G Intellibrites are very expensive and the new architectural ones are even more expensive..... just doesn't seem worth it. The I know other options are out there, but is there any option that will work with this controller? If not, do I just take out this controller and replace it with a light switch?





Thansk,
Greg
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Stuck on cloudy?

S
Hey there, took my cover off about 2 weeks ago. Was 80% visibility with some leaves on bottom. Outdoor temp jumped and I got busy and within two days the pool was very dark green. Over this past Friday, Sat, Sunday I did a SLAM. Before slamming Ph was 7.8, no stabilizer. I got ph to 7.2, have stabilizer to about 40. Kept FC all weekend anywhere from 15 to 25/30 PPM. Stop shocking Sunday evening. Pool is now stuck at a very cloudy blue, I placed a new cartridge filter in yesterday (Hayward Xstream 1500 system) hoping it would start to clear, still very cloudy. Today I'm at 10-11 FC, 0 combined chlorine. Using Taylor kit/FAS/DPD. I really appreciate any advice!
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PB just turned over pool to me, what do I correct first?

PoolGate
rookie177 said:
Unfortunately, I don't know. As far as I know, the only things added during startup were muriatic acid, a small amount of liquid chlorine, and they tossed a few tri-chlor tabs into the skimmer after a few weeks.
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If you have your TF-100 test kit, can you do another full test right now and see what's what? Also can you say exactly how you are doing the CH test?

Hmm..... CYA and calcium carbonate look similar. I wonder if he added the wrong one?
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Iron stains

Helen203
We spot treated stains when the pool was empty with citric acid (what the local pool store had), and then power washed. We struggled with chlorine balance for a few days — maybe remnants of the citric acid?

Pool is chemically balanced again, Ty TFP. My understanding is that the metals can be held in the water with sequesterants, and we didn’t want to do that forever. Based on our water bills, draining and refilling the pool was less than $50, which is about a bottle of sequestrant. But we had to add 400 pounds of salt, and bump up CH and alkalinity. Roughly speaking, we spent about $250.
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