I am pretty good at researching things, but there is very little info provided for an indoor residential pool. (I'm used to being the outlier)

There are so many choices. And I cannot even seem to narrow it down to whether a low pressure or medium pressure system is needed. My pool stays pretty darn perfect, with the only exception being a consistent creeping up of my CC's. Six kids has always made our family a bit on the large size, and now I keep getting new grandkids too......the battle between me and my CC's is only getting worse. The SLAM's are getting more frequent and are taking longer to resolve the CC's. Yesterday my youngest kid had her yearly "end of the school year" pool party. This weekend, my youngest granddaughters will have their birthday party. It's never ending. (By the way, I'm not complaining about the pool usage. I love it!! Only complaining about the amount of bleach I am needing to dump in there to resolve the CC's)

So, here I am asking the pool gods, to please help me make a decision that will specifically target the CC's of an indoor residential pool. Low or Medium pressure? Which brands are the best? I'm ready to do this thing.

Will A generic Hayward T-15 cell work on a Pureline? I have their 40,000 gallon cell, but it's called an F-15, and I see they (pureline) make one specifically for a Hayward, but it has a different part number, so I don't know if they are interchangeable.
Thanks.

Hello,

I have opened our pool Southern Wisconsin and everything seemed to be doing fine. Experienced some water loss pretty heavy (4in) in 48 hours and thought I had a suction side leak. Had the pool off for a few days and the water loss stoped just above the bottom of the skimmers. Filled it up and it’s been fine for the last week and a half. No water loss, no air in pump, no bubbles in returns, everything was perfect. Backwashed yesterday and have had 3 inches of water loss with the filter running. Water loss the first time was the same with pump on and pump off. No other signs of water loss as pump is working perfectly and keeping prime with no bubbles on supply or return side. I have checked the backwash pipe and it’s not leaking as I thought it may be the multi port seal. I have tried the leak dye and nothing on the return sides and I thought there was a possible leak on the supply side due to dye getting sucked in slowly. But with there being no water loss the last week and an half I’m lost. Any thoughts on next steps?

Just had a Raypak Bronze ASME 266 heater installed to replace my rusted out Raypak. Purchased unit from an individual that did not install it. I hired a local HVAC company that specializes in Hayward equipment. The Raypak came with an Outdoor Stack 009835. The guys that installed it said the stack was missing a top and that rain and leaves would get inside. They called the manager who said it does not need a top. I have searched as much as I can and cannot find anything about if it should have a top. I haven't tried to remove it yet and see if the Pagoda from my old Raypak 266 would fit this new unit. Does anyone have an Outdoor Stack that can tell me if it does or does not have a top? You can see that they placed the heater on top of some of the PVC and fountain valve.

Hello and thanks to all of you for this amazing resource!

I am a new pool owner living in a long-term (3-4 years) temporary home after my family's home burned down earlier this year in the Eaton Fire in Altadena, CA. I am eager to learn and have read through the Pool School materials which are really great! I intend to order a tf-100 or tf-Pro kit to help me take care of our new pool. We always thought of putting in a pool in Altadena, so having one now will give us something to enjoy as a family and give me some experience with what it takes (time and money) to properly care for a pool.

First my current numbers (as measured by my local pool store which is 1 mile away):
FC: 1.31
TC: 1.45
PH: 7.7
TA: 112
CH: 220
CYA: 48
Iron: 0.1
Copper: 0.2
Phosphates: 326

I realize the pool store is not the way to go and I will be ordering the tf-100 or tf-Pro shortly.

Some history on this pool:

The person who lived here before me installed the pool and cared for it himself for 26 years. He said he always used 3" pucks year round and 1lb of weekly powdered shock during the swim season. The only other chemicals he added was some muriatic acid about 3 times a year to keep the PH down. He said he kept 4 pucks in the floater and added 1-2 per week max during the winter and 2-3 per week in the summer on top of the partially dissolved pucks.

He brushed the pool 1-2 times a week and used a Zodiac G3 automatic pool cleaner which he left behind for me. He ran the pump on high for 3 hours in the morning (during which the G3 did its thing) followed by 6 hours on low (not sufficient pressure to move the G3). I have maintained this schedule since moving in about a month ago.

When I asked him rabout CYA increases he said in the 26 years he only ever replaced about 1,000 gallons of water twice. The pool was replastered this past October, and he used LC until January and then switched back to pucks.

So the question is does it really make sense for me to switch to LC since it seems like he had success with this particular pool using pucks without significant need for water exchange. I have been reviewing the forums and it looks like I will need to add approximately 1 gallon of 10% LC a day to my 20,000 gallon pool (at CYA of 50). (see How much liquid chlorine is normal?)

The cheepest chlorene I have found is $0.437/oz ($6.99 for a gallon of 12.5%). Assuming an approximate .8 conversion rate for 10% to 12.5%, this would mean $5.59 of 12.5 LC needs to be added every day, $167/month during the swim season. Does my math seem about right or am I missing something here? If this number is correct it would far exceed the cost to continuing to use pucks.

Thank you for your thoughts and thanks again for creating this community!