I wouldn't mess with it until you have everything working.

When you do it, check the level of the sand, it may have gone down over the years:

Midwestdude said:

My three year old can't wait

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At 3, I would have moved heaven and earth to warm the water. At 16, i'll throw her in fully clothed and hope it freezes the attitude off.

PoolStored said:

Sand filters just take the longest to clear.
Backwash often.
Here is deep clean:

Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...

www.troublefreepool.com

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Yeah I've watched the videos and read the instructions. But my filter is a side fed unit and his was a top fed and already disconnected. I Just want to make sure I can switch my valve to "Closed", unbolt the top and do the garden hose technique. I want to make sure I don't undo all the cleaning I've done over the past 4 or 5 days.

Sand filters just take the longest to clear.
Backwash often.
Here is deep clean:

Wrong skimmer basket. Send them back.

PoolStored said:

Not clear yet!!! This is clear...Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

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Is this a case of keep up the SLAM until it gets more clear, or potentially a filter issue? I ask because of the flow question mentioned above, if the sand is "gummed up" for lack of a better term, perhaps it isn't filtering out the finer particles? Can you provide feedback on my filter deep clean question in my previous post?

Gotta love those little ones!

Not clear yet!!! This is clear...Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

The cell calculates the salt reading electronically but you should be testing it yourself. What test kit do you have? You should have one of our recommended kits with the salt add-on. Then you will KNOW your salt content. Leslies testing and selling techniques are suspect but the SWG testing jig is not theirs and so it's supposed to accurately diagnose the cell. Yours should come back as good but I would want to verify that since it's 6 years old. That is at the end of life for most cells, especially a T9 that is too small for your pool. Your cell should always be sized twice the pool gallonage so you should actually have a T15 that is for up to 40K gallons.
Test Kits Compared

use 3000 to check the pressure.
Use whatever speed you want to run for running.

Last Wednesday evening wife and I pulled the winter cover and then rolled out the solar cover. We didn't have time to do anything else that evening since we needed to add water. Next couple days it rained. This picture is from last Saturday when I had time to finish opening, and vaccuming. All went well, equipment all up and running, added some liquid Chlorine I had left over from last season. It's always encouraging to open it up and th water is crystal clear. If it wasn't so frigid I'd have been tempted to get my suit on and jump in. I stood in the water by the steps for a bit and I'm guessing it's probably around 50 degrees. I was very pleased with the water conditon and the reltively low amount of leaves in the pool.

Today or tomorrow, I'll test the water and see where we stand there. Then it's just a matter of waiting for the water to warm up for swimming!

My three year old can't wait, I had to stop her from going out to the pool. She had just a diaper on and arms full of pool toys

SForget about turnover and run the pump to accomplish tasks as outlined earlier.

If you are running the pump then you want to have chlorine generation. That way you can lower the SWCG output %.

Do you use PoolMath app? That is very helpful to set up the SWCG based on 3 parameters - pump time duration, % output of your specific SWCG and output of FC. The app will solve for 1 if you input the other 2 variables.

Xiaosong83 said:

4% FC, 0% CC, pH 7.9

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It is always best to post the CYA level, even it is was tested weeks before. Also, FC and CC are in ppm units - not %
The SWCG output is in % units.

Also, it would be very helpful to show all the equipment you have.
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Thanks for your reply and advice. We have already used some swirl away, but it didn't seem to do much. I have some Ahh-some on order, set to arrive tomorrow. Should I remove all the spa jets and use the ahh-some at the same time, or remove the spa jets first to pump out the lines, then put them back on when using the Ahh-some? Not sure if the spa jets themselves would benefit from a cleaning with the Ahh-some...

Water seems clear to me. Can see the bottom of the deep end and see details in the liner, so I'd say that qualifies as clear. I'll do the OCLT tonight into tomorrow.

If that passes, I still need to sort out the SWG because there are a couple of issues at the moment. First, it requires 2500ish rpms to make the flow light go green. I feel like that's too high but I'm open to other opinions. I'd like to try a deep clean of the filter (see attached images). I'm assuming I can set the MVP to closed and remove the top and do the garden hose thing with the filter in place, correct?

Second, and more importantly the light of the SWG always stays on even though I have it set to not generate chlorine during the SLAM. It's my understanding that the lights should go off when the pump turns off. I've had it on 24/7 during the SLAM, but I've had to turn it off for short amounts of time for backwashing and then refilling when levels are low. I do have the install tech coming back out Thursday to "finish" the install because when they first came out there was the breaker issue so they couldn't actually verify anything. I want to make sure that when they leave the whole setup is working correctly.

After all that is sorted then I'll need to dial in the SWG percentage. Any and all guidance to finish this process off and get back to enjoying the pool is much appreciated.

Thanks. I heard from others that leslies isn’t very accurate. Question. What determines the salt value on the display? Does the cell send the value? It only shows 2000 which is why it isn’t generating. But if my cell is producing chlorine, is it possible that it would still send the wrong salt value? My bucket test clearly showed that chlorine is being produced. So just trying to determine why the wrong salt value is being displayed.

Leslies

4x1gal is $34 bucks (says 10-12.5% available I haven't stopped in to validate because their pricing is high)

PoolStored said:

Maybe it was assembled incorrectly, review the video.
Was the pump run dry? If so, the heat may have warped the seal plate or volute.

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Ok. Thanks. I'll try it again.

My salt pool felt like it left our skin dried out but I'm sure it's because my CH was over 900. I'm looking forward to keeping my CSI between 0 and -.3 from now on.

Was the old pump a VS pump running at slow speed?

Then I would say it's a bad main board. You can take your cell to Leslies and they can put it on their test jig but I don't know if the jig reports life left in the cell. It may just say good or no good. This might rule the cell out and leave the board to replace. I only took cells to them to confirm they were dead.