Alright, I'll remove them both when I have time and continue the SLAM. When the cleaning part comes in I'll get them both a good scrub.
SWG Install and Opening Help
- Thread starter reaton
- Start date
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,232
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
No lights in the pool and no floor drain, just the two skimmer baskets and return lines.
Cleaning brush arrived today and my brother in law is coming over to help me get the steps out. I'll give the steps and the ladder a good scrub. I back washed the filter yesterday and today as my flow started well and then got progressively slower throughout the day. I also vacuumed to waste a bunch of dead algae from the bottom of the pool, so I've had a hose running pretty much all day to try and replace the water. I think I'll retest my CYA during my next FC check because I think it's gone down from the back washing and hose filling and my last FC check I didn't have to add LC because my FC was still above SLAM level (I think because I added based on having a CYA of 50, but if it's lower now I probably added too much). Pool looks much better after vacuuming so hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to post updated pictures of the progress. Appreciate all the help and prompt responses so far. TFP rules.
Last check CYA was 40, down from 50. I added LC this morning around 6:30 AM to SLAM up to 20 FC. I just checked and my FC is still at 17. I guess that's good? Means most bad stuff is dead. Deep end is still a little cloudy, can't completely see the bottom. I've had to turn the pump off for a few hours while the water level gets back up after back washing and vacuuming. So hopefully I'll get that back on in a couple hours ans resume testing.
You're doing great. Stay the course. 
Towards the end the big quick improvements become much less visible and folks need to drink a large glass of patience.
Towards the end the big quick improvements become much less visible and folks need to drink a large glass of patience.
Water is progressing. Like @Newdude said, big changes can't be seen anymore but it does appear to slowly be getting clearer. I'm only on full day 4 of my SLAM, so I'm sure there is more to be done. One side question I have about my pump setup is this: I have to run my Superflo pump at 2200 rpm minimum for my flow light to go green on my IC40 SWG. That seems really high. Also, after a while during the day even that won't be good enough and the light will go red. Granted, I'm not using it yet, but when I switch over to it I really don't want to have to micromanage the flow, and the point of getting the VS pump was to run it at a much lower rpm to save money. I'll backwash and rinse, and then the 2200 rpms are good enough for a while, but always goes red fairly quickly. Also throughout the day my flow at the returns noticeably slows down. Could this just be left over algae in the water clogging the filter, and constant backwashing is normal during a SLAM? The sand filter is old and the only thing I haven't replaced so far and I do notice some sand in the pool. Not a lot, but some. I'm trying not to worry about a million things at once, but I don't want to finish my SLAM and then not have a working SWG, or needing to run my pump at higher speeds. I can take pictures of the piping if needed (it honestly looks like a mess to me). I also have 2 skimmers, one about 8 feet away from the pump, and the other is at the other end of the pool 40ish feet away, not sure if that factors into anything.
Quick question I just thought of, if I set my filter valve to recirculate and dial in my rpms for the SWG there, how much higher does it tend to be after going through a sand filter? I assume it would require more (obviously) but would there be a decent test to determine if my filter is just reducing my flow too much? Sight glass is clear, even when I backwash. I do see sand coming out through the sight glass when I backwash/rinse as well. I know this is a long rambling post with a lot of questions, so I appreciate any help while I'm finishing the SLAM.
Quick question I just thought of, if I set my filter valve to recirculate and dial in my rpms for the SWG there, how much higher does it tend to be after going through a sand filter? I assume it would require more (obviously) but would there be a decent test to determine if my filter is just reducing my flow too much? Sight glass is clear, even when I backwash. I do see sand coming out through the sight glass when I backwash/rinse as well. I know this is a long rambling post with a lot of questions, so I appreciate any help while I'm finishing the SLAM.
Water seems clear to me. Can see the bottom of the deep end and see details in the liner, so I'd say that qualifies as clear. I'll do the OCLT tonight into tomorrow.
If that passes, I still need to sort out the SWG because there are a couple of issues at the moment. First, it requires 2500ish rpms to make the flow light go green. I feel like that's too high but I'm open to other opinions. I'd like to try a deep clean of the filter (see attached images). I'm assuming I can set the MVP to closed and remove the top and do the garden hose thing with the filter in place, correct?
Second, and more importantly the light of the SWG always stays on even though I have it set to not generate chlorine during the SLAM. It's my understanding that the lights should go off when the pump turns off. I've had it on 24/7 during the SLAM, but I've had to turn it off for short amounts of time for backwashing and then refilling when levels are low. I do have the install tech coming back out Thursday to "finish" the install because when they first came out there was the breaker issue so they couldn't actually verify anything. I want to make sure that when they leave the whole setup is working correctly.
After all that is sorted then I'll need to dial in the SWG percentage. Any and all guidance to finish this process off and get back to enjoying the pool is much appreciated.
If that passes, I still need to sort out the SWG because there are a couple of issues at the moment. First, it requires 2500ish rpms to make the flow light go green. I feel like that's too high but I'm open to other opinions. I'd like to try a deep clean of the filter (see attached images). I'm assuming I can set the MVP to closed and remove the top and do the garden hose thing with the filter in place, correct?
Second, and more importantly the light of the SWG always stays on even though I have it set to not generate chlorine during the SLAM. It's my understanding that the lights should go off when the pump turns off. I've had it on 24/7 during the SLAM, but I've had to turn it off for short amounts of time for backwashing and then refilling when levels are low. I do have the install tech coming back out Thursday to "finish" the install because when they first came out there was the breaker issue so they couldn't actually verify anything. I want to make sure that when they leave the whole setup is working correctly.
After all that is sorted then I'll need to dial in the SWG percentage. Any and all guidance to finish this process off and get back to enjoying the pool is much appreciated.
Attachments
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,232
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Is this a case of keep up the SLAM until it gets more clear, or potentially a filter issue? I ask because of the flow question mentioned above, if the sand is "gummed up" for lack of a better term, perhaps it isn't filtering out the finer particles? Can you provide feedback on my filter deep clean question in my previous post?
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,232
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Sand filters just take the longest to clear.
Backwash often.
Here is deep clean:
www.troublefreepool.com
Backwash often.
Here is deep clean:
Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter
This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...
www.troublefreepool.com
Yeah I've watched the videos and read the instructions. But my filter is a side fed unit and his was a top fed and already disconnected. I Just want to make sure I can switch my valve to "Closed", unbolt the top and do the garden hose technique. I want to make sure I don't undo all the cleaning I've done over the past 4 or 5 days.Sand filters just take the longest to clear.
Backwash often.
Here is deep clean:
Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter
This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,232
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I wouldn't mess with it until you have everything working.
When you do it, check the level of the sand, it may have gone down over the years:
When you do it, check the level of the sand, it may have gone down over the years:
So last night at 9 PM my FC was at 15.5 (I added LC at 6:30 AM to get it up to SLAM level of 16, so I only lost .5 FC throughout the whole day which was overcast and rainy) and when I checked this morning my FC was at 15 and my CC was at 0. So other than the pool being clear from my previous post, that's all I'm waiting on to finish my SLAM. I need to get my FC up at SLAM level until my pool is clear clear correct?
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,232
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Also there is quite a bit of sand in the pool this morning. I adjusted my Superflo to run at 2500 rpms from 6AM-Noon and 1900 rpms the rest of the day to see if that would help with flow. My skimmers don't appear to be catching many of the pedals that are falling in the pool so it's a manually skimming process daily at the moment. I'm wondering if the pump is just past it and may have some broken laterals. It's a Hayward S200, which is discontinued so it's either leave it be or total replacement. As far as I'm aware the pump and filter were original to the pool and I'm not sure how long ago that was. I can call the pool company and request their records.
Also, side tangent here, but when I asked for a quote on a pump/swg upgrade I was told to get the Superflo VST and IC40 and the SWG would only run when the pump runs. However, now I'm reading (Pentair ic40 intergrating with pentair vs pump) that my pump doesn't have that feature, and the power to the SWG is always on. This confuses me because the IC40 manual and the power center that it came with both say they can be wired up to be on if the pump is on. If I plan on running my pump 24/7 is there a downside to running the SWG 24/7, or should I look into a timer for the SWG or some form of automation? I really wasn't planning on breaking the bank when doing this, but replacing the pump and adding the SWG was a nice chunk and potentially the filter as well. I was hoping to avoid anything else if possible. Also I have literally no more room in my breaker, so whatever I do would have to fit onto the existing circuit or else there will be some serious electrical work to be done.
Also, side tangent here, but when I asked for a quote on a pump/swg upgrade I was told to get the Superflo VST and IC40 and the SWG would only run when the pump runs. However, now I'm reading (Pentair ic40 intergrating with pentair vs pump) that my pump doesn't have that feature, and the power to the SWG is always on. This confuses me because the IC40 manual and the power center that it came with both say they can be wired up to be on if the pump is on. If I plan on running my pump 24/7 is there a downside to running the SWG 24/7, or should I look into a timer for the SWG or some form of automation? I really wasn't planning on breaking the bank when doing this, but replacing the pump and adding the SWG was a nice chunk and potentially the filter as well. I was hoping to avoid anything else if possible. Also I have literally no more room in my breaker, so whatever I do would have to fit onto the existing circuit or else there will be some serious electrical work to be done.
For the filter - your main pain point will be all the bolts and nuts holding the lid on. Obviously, have everything off before you start the deep clean. Open the air valve, with all the skimmer/jet valves in normal operating condition, and let the filter self drain back to the pool. Then work on the lid. Take care on opening - it may be gummed in place and take some convincing - no tools that could damage the seal (likely a giant o-ring). Get out the hose, and work it up and down in the entire sand bed. You will be flabbergasted at the amount of dirty water that comes out. If the sand level is low, add it before starting the clean - new sand has a lot of dust, but the deep clean will rinse that out too. If there are very hard chunks or matted together things, I have been know to just get them out and say good bye. Keep working it until you are convinced you're good and the water overflows clear. Make sure there is no dirt/sand in the seat for the seal, and the seal is in good condition. Pool lube on the seal, if rubber, is a good idea (another messy job). When putting the bolts back in, do it like a tire, with one on one side, then on the opposite side, working your way around.
Afterwards, test your setup for the pump speed issue. It may have been caked together sand causing the problem.
IF pool clearing still seems slower, you can add DE to help it along. Add DE to a Sand Filter
Sounds counter intuitive - but a slightly dirty sand filter filters better. The difference is that the DE (or new accumulated dirt) will backwash out pretty easily, and not plug things up. The only downside to DE is that sometimes you have to purchase what for you would be a multi lifetime supply.
And pour yourself that glass of patience after. Run your pump at a little lower speed, rather than full bore, so that it doesn't just blow the dirt right through the sand and back into the pool. That was my issue in my sand days - too much pump on a too small sand filter.
Afterwards, test your setup for the pump speed issue. It may have been caked together sand causing the problem.
IF pool clearing still seems slower, you can add DE to help it along. Add DE to a Sand Filter
Sounds counter intuitive - but a slightly dirty sand filter filters better. The difference is that the DE (or new accumulated dirt) will backwash out pretty easily, and not plug things up. The only downside to DE is that sometimes you have to purchase what for you would be a multi lifetime supply.
And pour yourself that glass of patience after. Run your pump at a little lower speed, rather than full bore, so that it doesn't just blow the dirt right through the sand and back into the pool. That was my issue in my sand days - too much pump on a too small sand filter.