CCP520 Reading 4 PSI at 58 GPM — Is That Normal?

If you count backwards from 10, the gauge actually shows 5 psi, which is pretty close to the expected 6 psi.

How high is the pressure gauge above the pool water surface?
I'll make measurements when I get home. :)
The gauge is installed on top of the CCP520 filter (height is 56 inches), which is on a platform about 4 inches above the pool water surface. So that would be about 60 inches.
  • Like
Reactions: JamesW

New Pool Owner - Doing Salt Water Conversion upon Opening

Hi All!

Accomplished a dream back in November of buying a home with an in-ground pool. We couldn't be more excited.

It's a 16x32 Roman Ends pool. I had it inspected prior, all checked out well. Heater timer isn't working but pool company said that should be roughly a $75 fix with a new part.
My question for the group is, what test kit should I get? I will be doing a Salt Water conversion upon opening on May 14th.

I've read a lot about the Taylor test kits but there are so many options. I've also saw I may need an individual salt stick reader if I get those kits?

Any help is appreciated. Thank you!

Reno, advice needed

Depends on the price difference. Larger will be quieter and save a bit on electricity, but the biggest benefit is VSP over single speed.

I guess baby steps for now on the automation. 3hp is 650 more, so I will go with that.

He quoted the intellichlor for 2200.. I see the pure line is about a grand, but I would have to install it myself. Are they equal players? I'm pretty confident that i could install it.

CCP520 Reading 4 PSI at 58 GPM — Is That Normal?

Renante,

I have no heater and at 1200 rpm, my filter pressure is about 1 lb. on a 30 lb. gauge. (Note.. I don't know my GPM, and could not care less.. )

You are just making things harder on yourself. :mrgreen:

Filter pressure shows how hard it is to push water through your filter, not how well your pump is running.

The real key is to just feel the pool returns.. Do you have plenty of water returning to your pool? I suspect that you do.

The whole point of having a VS pump is to run as slow as you can and still get the job done..

What specific reason are you running at 58 GPM?? Sounds like you might be worried about "turnovers" ??? :scratch:

Thanks,

Jim R.
Hi Jim,
Thanks for getting back to me. Yes, I have three output jets, and they’re returning water very well—much better than the old 15-year-old DE filter. I'm currently running my variable speed pump at 50% (around 1,700 RPM), which is the same setting I used before switching to the new cartridge filter. I’m considering lowering it further to target around 28 GPM, since I’m running the pump 12 hours a day to achieve one full turnover daily for my 20,000-gallon pool.

And hey—I probably am making it harder on myself, but what’s a project without a little overthinking, right?

- Renante

Replacing Pump Motor, Need Specific Replacement Motor Model and P/N.

The motor is running but emits a high noise, and it's about 8 years old. Have been advised to wait until it stops working to change the motor.
Google searches are not coming up with the right replacements for new motor. Please see the attached image of the pump label.
Which gaskets or other components should I replace when installing the motor?

Attachments

  • PENTAIR MOTOR.JPG
    PENTAIR MOTOR.JPG
    439.2 KB · Views: 10

1746713711463.png

PENTAIR MOTOR.JPG

CCP520 Reading 4 PSI at 58 GPM — Is That Normal?

Do you have a 3 hp Intelliflo3 or a 1.5 hp Intelliflo3?

A 3 hp pump would be at about 17 psi.

A 1.5 HP pump would be about 6.5 psi.



View attachment 643903
_______________________________________________________________________________________________

View attachment 643907
Hi James sir,
I do have 1.5 HP Intelliflo3. I asked the pool techs after they installed the filter and redo the piping and he said it's normal and the lower the better. It's just weird to me that only 2 PSI registers at 50% speed with 42GPM. Like you mentioned, I also expect around 5 to 10 PSI. Thanks sir for the response.

bperry’s pool renovation

A couple weeks ago I started trying to repair the latch on the gate around the pool equipment…

Then it kinda snowballed into a fence renovation, plumbing renovation, downspout extension, backwash plumbing line, and landscaping.

IMG_5559.jpegIMG_5560.jpeg

I got big stones laid down in front of the pad so I can not have to mow right against the pad anymore. I got a downspout extension ran out under the stone, including a backwash port I can tie into so backwash water doesn’t flood the pad anymore), new fence post footings installed, new conduit for sprinkler controller wires, and I got almost all of the plumbing done (still waiting on a couple MPV fittings) and then notice this little oddity on the return line right as it goes down into the pad concrete. If you zoom a bit you can see it. Looks like someone inserted some kind of union? on the -inside- of the 1.5” pipe right below the bigger union. I’ve already decided I’m gonna fix that cause it’s easier now that there’s no fence in the way. Ugh.
IMG_5557.jpeg

IMG_5557.jpeg

IMG_5560.jpeg

IMG_5559.jpeg

18 x 33 x 56" Semi-In Ground NJ

Sounds like your fill water pH and TA is similar to mine, which makes sense given our wells are probably pulling from the same aquifer.

For the first year of my pool, I had high TA and the pH would rise. I'd let it get up to 8.0 and then add Muriatic Acid to drop it back down to the low 7s (use the aforementioned PoolMath app to tell you how much to add.) I had to do that a few times, but then after a while of doing that the TA came down and now it pretty much balances itself unless I get heavy rains that dilute my TA, or have to add a lot of fill water that raises it back up.
  • Like
Reactions: Brian.O1484

CCP520 Reading 4 PSI at 58 GPM — Is That Normal?

What is the power usage at those numbers?

How high is the pressure gauge above the pool water surface?


1000007818.png

1746713064573.png

Filter