Featured Stubborn algae afte SLAM

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pji

Well-known member
Aug 12, 2021
50
South Florida
Pool Size
13000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Autopilot Digital Nano+ PPC2
After a few months of not taking care of my pool (I know I know..) I'm now paying the price. Most (99%) of the algae cleaned up after the SLAM and some brushing but some small pieces remain. It definately looks like green algae, idential the what was there before the SLAM.

Question now is, do I SLAM again or try a spot treatment? I read about a chlorine puck in a sock but not so sure.

Levels today (TF-Pro Salt kit):

FC - 5
CC - 0
pH - 7.4 (dropped it to 7.2 yesterday to tackke high TA)
TA - 70
CYA -45 (I normally keep this a little higher, 60/70, but am working my way back there slowly)
CH - 350 (Getting it to 450 at the minute is the plan)
Salt - 3600

Plaster Pool, Autopilot ColorSync Gen II SWG.

PoolMath is telling me to add 216oz liquid chlorine to SLAM (18) based on my current CYA.
 
pji said:
Most (99%) of the algae cleaned up after the SLAM and some brushing but some small pieces remain.
Click to expand...
As the saying goes, "well there's your problem". If there is visible algae in the water then the SLAM Process is not complete.

Jump back on it and don't let up until all three criteria have been achieved. BTW: round your CYA to 50, we round it up to the tens. That makes your target 20 ppm FC.
 
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You allowed your FC to get too low for your CYA after SLAM. Always follow this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels
During normal operation, you should dose ABOVE range, so that when you test, you are IN range.
Start the slam process and don't quit until you pass. Link-->SLAM Process

Your CYA is 50. Always round up to the next 10. Your SLAM target is 20.
Slam is a process. Test, replace to get to 20, wait, test, replace to get to 20. Keep doing this AT LEAST 3-4x per day, You can even do every two hours.
Do not stop testing and replacing until:
CC <= .5
You pass overnight chlorine loss test. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
And pool is clear like this...Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?
 
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OK seems clear enough. Thanks all. First time doing a SLAM. Will stick with it.

I assume the plan is that the process kills the last few pieces of algae on the 2 or 3 places on the walls and I should be able to brush off whatver remains?
 
Donldson said:
As the saying goes, "well there's your problem". If there is visible algae in the water then the SLAM Process is not complete.

Jump back on it and don't let up until all three criteria have been achieved. BTW: round your CYA to 50, we round it up to the tens. That makes your target 20 ppm FC.
Click to expand...
Water is perfectly clear. Algae is on the walls in a few places.
 
Live algae can be sticky, and a bit of a pain to scrub. But do so. At times it may be in layers, and the CL only gets the top, and what lies below comes back. So scrub often. Usual advice for accessories applies - take out ladders and scrub/bleach heavily, even inside. Light fixtures, bottom drain covers, and similar areas can all be hiding places.
 
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Im still confused here, but thats not terribly difficult to do, so.

Do you have stains that would require the crushed up tabs, and you're calling it algae ?

Or an actively growing sediment ?

Or both ?

Got pics ? They say 1000 words and all.
 
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Newdude said:
Im still confused here, but thats not terribly difficult to do, so.

Do you have stains that would require the crushed up tabs, and you're calling it algae ?

Or an actively growing sediment ?

Or both ?

Got pics ? They say 1000 words and all.
Click to expand...
Not home right now but I would have said stains from not brushing enough. Butnow that I properly read the SLAM process again I realised I didn't follow it through. I'll do it properly and see what happens.

Will send photos if they still remain after.
 
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pji said:
Is this for now or in general? PoolMath says 350-550 is ideal. Is the lower end ok?
Click to expand...
The low end is actually ideal, but many have high CH fill water and its impossible to maintain without a water softener.

For you, with the wet season upon you in FL, I'd run a little higher at 400 to allow dilution from all the storms and more time between adds. Then at 300 I would add another 100. (By the same token, id let it be now until its 300 because harmless and im lazy. )
 
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Newdude said:
The low end is actually ideal, but many have high CH fill water and its impossible to maintain without a water softener.

For you, with the wet season upon you in FL, I'd run a little higher at 400 to allow dilution from all the storms and more time between adds. Then at 300 I would add another 100. (By the same token, id let it be now until its 300 because harmless and im lazy. )
Click to expand...
Thanks, good to know!
 
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Its amazing what happens if you actually read and follow *all* the SLAM steps :)

Pool is looking fantastic, so thanks to all! Water quality is definitely clear and the pool in general looks fantastic now. I've ticked all 3 boxes so am considering the SLAM complete:

CC is 0.5 or lower - 0
your overnight chlorine loss test shows 1.0 ppm of loss or less - 0.
pool water is crystal clear with no visible sign of algae (dead or alive) on floor and walls - yes

What are next steps now?
  • SWG has been off during the SLAM - At what FC ppm do I turn it back on? Currently at 14ppm FC. Down from 20ppm 24 hours before duringthe SLAM.
  • pH is at 8 - Up from 7.4 48 hours ago but maybe becuase spillover has been running 24/7 during the SLAM? I belive this aerates the water causing pH to rise?
  • TA is 80 - Should probably bring this down to 70?
  • CYA us 40 - kept it lower for the SLAM. Target is 70 according to PoolMath.
  • CH - MAy get it to 400 as was suggested before we get some rain soon.
Which, if any order should I get this back to where they should be or does it matter? Thinking CYA first once I get to "normal" FC levels, then turn SWG back on, then TA and pH? But as has been show I'm still a novice here so would appreciate any guidance. New SWG so will need to monitor FC for the next while as I figure out what output to set it to.
 
pji said:
Its amazing what happens if you actually read and follow *all* the SLAM steps :)

Pool is looking fantastic, so thanks to all! Water quality is definitely clear and the pool in general looks fantastic now. I've ticked all 3 boxes so am considering the SLAM complete:

CC is 0.5 or lower - 0
your overnight chlorine loss test shows 1.0 ppm of loss or less - 0.
pool water is crystal clear with no visible sign of algae (dead or alive) on floor and walls - yes

What are next steps now?
  • SWG has been off during the SLAM - At what FC ppm do I turn it back on? Currently at 14ppm FC. Down from 20ppm 24 hours before duringthe SLAM.
  • pH is at 8 - Up from 7.4 48 hours ago but maybe becuase spillover has been running 24/7 during the SLAM? I belive this aerates the water causing pH to rise?
  • TA is 80 - Should probably bring this down to 70?
  • CYA us 40 - kept it lower for the SLAM. Target is 70 according to PoolMath.
  • CH - MAy get it to 400 as was suggested before we get some rain soon.
Which, if any order should I get this back to where they should be or does it matter? Thinking CYA first once I get to "normal" FC levels, then turn SWG back on, then TA and pH? But as has been show I'm still a novice here so would appreciate any guidance. New SWG so will need to monitor FC for the next while as I figure out what output to set it to.
Click to expand...

- Use the FC/CYA chart to find the correct FC level. Stay at the high end or slightly above it to leave yourself some buffer. It's safe to swim anywhere above minimum and below SLAM level. Leave the SWG off until it is down to that level and then turn it on to maintain.
- ph isn't valid with FC above 10, test again when FC is at 10 or lower and adjust then.
- TA is fine and will come down on its own when you manage ph
- Increase CYA to 70 with dry CYA. Look up the sock method if you aren't familiar with it. Can star this now before your FC is back down.
 
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At your current CYA, turn on the SWCG when it gets to about 7-9. Then test daily to see whether it makes it climb or drop. CL is always most important to keep well up (or even a bit above) the range.

CYA - any time. It will take a day or two to register the increase in the test. Use the higher recommended range goal for CL right after initial adding.

pH, only trust if CL is below 10. Drop it to 7.4 if you want to drop TA faster. Will have to let it rise, then drop it again - maybe a few/several times, as the TA is slower to react to the acid adds. This can be a daily process until you reach goal. Or leave it, and only add enough acid to maintain 7.8 - 8.0. It will take longer for the TA to lower, but it slowly will.

CH - anytime.
 
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How to add large batches of CYA

Hey Folks !!! With a large pool, I need 4lbs of CYA to only raise it 15, and I don't think I have that many socks without holes in them. So I use a Tshirt. Plus, I like that it's doubled up for redundancy. *** It can also be scaled down with socks. So I measure out my dose and...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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Great thanks. Didn't know about pH reading onnly being reliable below FC of 10. Than again, never had to do a SLAM before so FC was never above 10. I see with a CYA of 40, FC target is 3-7 so will turn the SWG back on at 8/9 as suggsted. Once I get to 70 CYA, looks like FC target is 5-10. From above looks like closer to 10 is better?

Always used the sock method to add CYA (thanks to TFP), but that t-shirt method looks pretty cool! Will get it back to 70 and work on the pH/TA/CH as well.

Thanks all. Looking forward to using the pool for the first time this year. Its been hot enough here in South Florida for a while but the pool is actually ready now. This was definitly a good lesson to learn so as not to neglect my pool again...
 
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