Take it apart and see what the issue is.

Well the spa heated to 80 then shut off with the service error. I'll have to look at it later.

I guess I am going to take the old one back out of the box in the garage and hook it back up. It was leaking but I'd rather have a leak and a working SWG over a non leaking SWG that doesn't generate anything.

Jimrahbe said:

Penny,

The Dolphin's runs a self test when first powered on.. it moves a little forward, and then backwards, and then tests the suction motor.. If any of those tests fail, it just stops..

Most likely the brushes in the motors have worn out or there is water in the motor box.

It could also be the drive train, which has no bearings, so the plastic pieces wear and make it hard to move the tracks.

Personally, unless it is very obvious where the problem is located, it is not worth my time to try and repair them...

I have moved on from the Dolphins, because of this.. See this review...

New EVO 614i Robot Pool Cleaner Review

About a month ago I needed a new robot pool cleaner and I contacted Margaret at Marina Pool and Spa. My initial goal was to buy another S200 "style" robot as I have been happy with them so far. Margaret suggested that I might want to look at a new line of robot cleaners that Marina is now...

www.google.com

Thanks,

Jim R.

Click to expand...

So, I just bought a new electronic board last year and I feel like these pool cleaners ought to be disposable. Lol. The triton cleans kind of randomly. It doesn’t clean in any particular order. So, it doesn’t always pick up every thing.

But, I noticed your review is from 2023. Do you still like the Polaris model? I used to have an old Polaris that attached to the inside wall of the pool. I kind of miss it. It had to be worked on a lot. But, it wasn’t complicated and expensive. This was my first dolphin.

All new plaster pools must managed carefully in the first 30 days.
There should be a startup guide provided by the contractor and you should follow the startup guide.
Following the startup guide will maximize the life of the plaster.
Ask your Pool Builder for the startup guide. Follow his instructions.

It will perhaps raise salt 8-9 ppm for each gallon. So maybe after 40 gallons will you need to think about it.

Sorry about that:
FC 4
CC 0
pH 7.2
TA 60
CH 200
CYA 10 (just added CYA)
Salt 2700
Water temperature 60
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test only lost 0.5 and CC is 0.
So I don't think it could be algae passing the OCLT and CC of 0. But I don't know what it could be. Hopefully someone will recognise what's in the pictures or has had something similar in the past.

JamesW said:

Show the whole board.

How about LED7?

Click to expand...

I took the covers off and checked the igniter. Seemed OK. At first, I turned it on and just the fan came on - it didn't do that before. Turned it off and and again, and now it's heating - for the moment. It might not work, if I turn it on and off, but I wanted the spa to get to temp and see what happens, and to let my wife use it to help with some physical therapy that she's doing.

ajw22 said:

Some electronic chips are switches. Voltage may not be switched on until the board sees certain connections.

Click to expand...

I think I've narrowed my problem down to the U13 Voltage Regulator chip. I followed this guide I found on here as well and when probing the TP13 (at the U13 regulator) I get 5V and then going to the TP14 to check for Voltage going to the Pins on the board I get 5V (when the display is lit) and 5V at Pin 4 on the display. But when I power off and back on and the display is not lit, I get the normal 5V at TP13 (U13 regulator), but nothing at the TP14 and nothing at Pin4 on the display. When removing the display (power still on), TP14 comes to life. Could the U13 voltage regulator be sensitive to the draw from the board showing it's weak or failing?

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If the water level drops low enough, the pump loses prime. You dont just get to drain the whole pool because you have drains. All pool/pump setups have unique thresholds so YMMV.

Your water level probably won't evap enough to lose prime, but the irony is that one rare risk fix creates a new one.

You could also retain prime while low, have a power flicker and not be able to reprime.

proavia said:

If you choose to shut off the water and only use the main drains to feed the pump, losing prime to the pump may burn up your EcoStar pump and require a replacement to the tune of $2000. Of course, leaving the water on and having a leak in the house during your absence could be more costly. I guess you have to pick your risk threshold.

How old it the Ecostar?

Click to expand...

Can you tell me how shutting off the skimmers could cause the pump to lose prime?

Welcome to TFP!

Your CH of 225 is fine. No need to adjust before or after SLAM.

Use liquid chlorine and retest salt level after the SLAM.

Follow the SLAM Process to the letter - no shortcuts.
Are you sure it's mustard algae and not just plain old algae?
After the SLAM Process is complete, raise FC to mustard algae levels as outlined in the mustard algae article.

2,600/3,000 = 87%, which is a pass for both sides.

You can add some salt or change to T-5 and leave the salt where it is.

What is your CYA?

Please post test results fertically to make them easier to review.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CYA
Salt
Water temperature

Do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to rule out algae.

What test kit are you using?
Add it to your signature

mikeoliver1313 said:

Will do. It will not be until later tonight when u get off from work. The company I had put my pool in did not really train or teach me anything so my left knob is at 5 right now right?

Click to expand...

Hopefully there are no pucks in the feeder. You have zero need for a trichlor feeder and a SWG. If they installed both when they built, they wasted your money. Ask anything you're not familiar with, we're here to help.

And yes the feeder is at setting 5. Turn it off or to 0.

Change to T-5 and redo the tests.

If you choose to shut off the water and only use the main drains to feed the pump, losing prime to the pump may burn up your EcoStar pump and require a replacement to the tune of $2000. Of course, leaving the water on and having a leak in the house during your absence could be more costly. I guess you have to pick your risk threshold.

How old it the Ecostar?

dosmom said:

Thanks so much. I was wondering about waiting for the click. I can do the test again and send results and will also look for corrosion.

Click to expand...

I retested waiting for the click. I am using 3000 as my new measured salt level. Average between two store readings, do not have my kit yet. I put salt in yesterday

Switch to off
2500
85
32.2
0
82p
0
al0
1.55
t9

back to auto
2500
85
25.1
4
81p
2700
al0
1.55
t9


off for a minute then to auto
2500
85
24.9
3.71
81p
2600
al0
1.55
t9

Show the whole board.

How about LED7?

Is Service Heater still on?

Turn off power and then restore power and show the bootup process and check for errors if the Service Heater Light comes back on.

The following are the LEDs:

1. .....PS (Pressure Switch)
2. .....HLS (High Limit Switch)
3. .....SFS (Stack Flue Sensor)
4. .....AFS (Air Flow Switch)
5. .....AGS (Automatic Gas Shutoff).
6. .....Service System
7. .....Thermistor
8. .....Heating
9. .....Pool On
10. ...Spa On
11. ...Service Heater.

I'd got the sensors from Blackhawk Supply: C-2344 | Analog 0-10VDC, 30/60/120A, split core | Senva Sensors
A reliable place as far as I can tell... Had ordered twice and they delivered very quickly. The price is still the same - $26 each plus shipping. They are located in Illinois.