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Kaptain
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Returns Not Working

1
Jbmiller15 said:
Hello all,

Right now I have only 1 of 4 returns working and my pool is a gross shade of green. I have 2 questions.

First, is it OK to run the pump with only one working return so I can begin the process to get clear water OR is it important to have multiple returns working to improve circulation?

Second, what can I do to diagnose and hopefully fix the problem with the broken returns?

The return that is working is on the side closest to the pump. The 3 that are not working are on the opposite side of the pool. I have read some of the other threads in the forum related to returns not working. I tried plugging the working return and turning on the pump to try to blow out anything that may have been obstructing the other return lines but that didn't work. When I change the multiport valve to port 2 the working return does nothing, the returns that aren't working do nothing, and the filter pressure goes up significantly (from 10-20 psi).

Thank you in advance for any advice on what steps I should take next.

Jeff
Click to expand...
I don't recognize the valve, but if they work like most 3-way valves you appear to have closed off two of the return lines. It may be that the handle is pointing to the open port, can't read the label
Unless your filter is bypassing very large debris, it is extremely hard to clog a return line. Best guess is that your filter is extremely clogged with algae and the water flow is so low that it can't get around the pool to the other side.
Open the filter, remove one or both cartridges, run the pump. Won't hurt anything for a short run, and you may find water getting to all the returns. That will tell you if the filter is the issue.
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Not sure if it's user error or a bad test kit

Newdude
mblind said:
I have been using both a Taylor K-2005 drop kit and then using a test strip just to see how they compare
Click to expand...
They are about the same accuracy, which is not very. Ans both are vague comparison tests without an actual value.

You need a fas/dpd test for actual, and reliable FC values.

mblind said:
I am concentrating on the TA and pH first before adding anything to adjust the other levels.
Click to expand...
Sounds poolstore-y. Worry about the long term things while the short term thing swamps you. (High CYA and low FC)

You'll need to drain to lower the CYA and refilling will throw off your TA/Ph. Abandon that for now.
mblind said:
Could the test kit be bad? The reagents have an expiration of 10/25 so it shouldn't be that. Should I maybe replace the reagents anyway?
Click to expand...
Was it stored climate controlled ? If so they're good for a long time.
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Returns Not Working

B
Jbmiller15 said:
Hello all,

Right now I have only 1 of 4 returns working and my pool is a gross shade of green. I have 2 questions.

First, is it OK to run the pump with only one working return so I can begin the process to get clear water OR is it important to have multiple returns working to improve circulation?

Second, what can I do to diagnose and hopefully fix the problem with the broken returns?

The return that is working is on the side closest to the pump. The 3 that are not working are on the opposite side of the pool. I have read some of the other threads in the forum related to returns not working. I tried plugging the working return and turning on the pump to try to blow out anything that may have been obstructing the other return lines but that didn't work. When I change the multiport valve to port 2 the working return does nothing, the returns that aren't working do nothing, and the filter pressure goes up significantly (from 10-20 psi).

Thank you in advance for any advice on what steps I should take next.

Jeff
Click to expand...
Are you sure it’s the returns not working? We call the returns the fittings inside the pool. If water is entering the pump, it’s going somewhere. Are the intake valves open?
Click to expand...

Low Flow Gas Buildup...

Guy559
ajw22 said:
35% is about 1,200 rpm. That is very low flow.

45% is about 1500 rpm.

There is not a lot of energy difference between the two at low RPMs.

If things work at 45% I would run there and not worry about it.
Click to expand...
Okay - this. Will just keep it simple.

@Jimrahbe, yes, it's gas buildup from the SWCG. Gets stuck in PVC returns. Sounds like 1,200 rpm (about 28 gpm) is too low to pull the gas back to the returns.
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Aiper Scuba S1 Review

D
Derekisthematrix said:
Any ideas on how to prevent debris from falling out of the bot when removing it from the pool?

I've tried slowly picking it up and also turning it horizontal and then lifting it out of the water, but still get some junk falling back into the pool. I don't think it's coming out of the bottom door of the filter basket. I do see debris outside of the basket around the top rim when I open the top though. Like somehow debris is getting out of the basket but the basket top appears to be closed/tight.

I'm liking the cleaning abilities of the bot so far but just wish it didn't poop in the pool when I take it out 😁.

Anyone else out there experience this and if so, any solutions?
Click to expand...
So I've done some experimenting with this and while I'm replying to my own post, I found a solution that tends to work. If you remove the robot very quickly and don't let it drain before pulling it out of the pool then the debris comes up with the water and then can just drain out onto the deck. Not an elegant solution, but it works to keep most of the debris from falling back in the pool.
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Not sure if it's user error or a bad test kit

B
mblind said:
TL;DR - Is it the test kit or a ID10T error on my part.

This is my second summer with a pool and I am still learning, so it is entirely possible that I am doing something wrong. My pool is a 15x30 oval with about 10,600 gallons. It is a chlorinated pool, not a salt water. I opened my pool on April 16th only because it best fit my schedule. I have been testing the water about every 3 or 4 days concentrating on my TA and pH before others. I have been using both a Taylor K-2005 drop kit and then using a test strip just to see how they compare. I like to test once a week with the drop kit and base any chemical add-ins based on that. I use a test strip once a day just to see trends. I do not make any chemical decisions based on test strips.

The results are way, way out of whack between them. The test strips consistently come back with the following: Hardness 250, TC 1-2, FC 1, TA 80, CYA 30, and pH 7.8
The drop test TC 3, FC 1, TA 180, CYA 90, and pH 8. I am most concerned about the TA being so drastically different. I took a sample to a pool store and had them test it. Here is their results: Hardness 139, TC 1.7, FC 1, TA 137, CYA 80, and pH 7.8. Again, I am concentrating on the TA and pH first before adding anything to adjust the other levels. That wide discrepancy with the TA reading between the test strips and drop kit have me baffled the most, and the pool store test result of 137 falls in between the two. Yet it is still over 40 ppm lower than the drop kit. I am questioning my method of using the test kit.

Here are my steps: Rinse test vessel obtain sample from well below the surface. Add two drops of R-0007 and swirl. Add 5 drops R-0008 and swirl to mix. I then add one drop of R-0009 and swirl. I repeat this until the mixture turns red. It takes me 18 drops to turn my water red which would mean my TA is 180. I think I'm doing it correctly, but am I missing something? Could the test kit be bad? The reagents have an expiration of 10/25 so it shouldn't be that. Should I maybe replace the reagents anyway?

I want to trust the drop kit over the test strips. This past week I have added two additions of muriatic acid of 32 ounces diluted in a 5 gallon bucket.

Thanks if you can enlighten me.
Click to expand...
The test strips are garbage and can’t be trusted. Don’t bother using them.

It’s better and safer to add acid directly to the pool water. Slowly in front of a return jet.
Click to expand...

First Opening Salt Question

S
If you were very lucky, and added CL to get to the normal range, you might see the CC drop back after a couple of days. But I've only had that happen a couple of times when I was at 1, and I could see all the earthworms and bugs that may be responsible. 1.5 is a flag that something else is growing, especially if your pool look pristine. It is likely your SLAM won't last very long (a couple of days), but far better now than having things explode a little bit later.

Odd about the pool store. They LOVED it when I loaded up on lots of CL after their routine "use tabs and shock once a week" resulted in me having to "shock" really often. And they sold me lots of other magic things too.

BTW - it is perfectly safe to swim up to shock level.
Click to expand...

IC-40 Dead???

Newdude
Gnarbrah said:
The o rings seemed good a month or so ago when I lubed them.
Click to expand...
When did the bubbles start ?

Does it sound like big and/or single bubbles or a bazillion little bubbles ?

Gnarbrah said:
It’s at 7 with the SWG running at 100% all day…
Click to expand...
So you got through the days FC loss with lots of leeway above minimum FC. Well done. (y)
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First Opening Salt Question

Newdude
nodnarb481 said:
What exactly is the data in my tests that's saying, "go for the nuke option first" rather than just bringing up some chemicals to the appropriate levels?
Click to expand...
Ironically, our way is the surgical precision way based on testing and rooted in science and their way is the arbitrarily nuclear way. 👇

nodnarb481 said:
I wager that's because they're accustomed to just shocking weekly or whatever
Click to expand...
They'll have you come back week after week for more 'dump and pray' advice which just so happens to sell lots of chemicals
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Help Please - Aux Relays Not Working

ogdento
Forgot one thing... you don't need new low voltage breakers - and Pentair charges a fortune for them - so in the top cabinet you'll see that the blue/orange/red wire pairs are each connected to a breaker... you'll just pull the wires from your old transformer off of them, and put the wires from the new transformer back on - snap a photo first so you can recall how they were installed
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TFT smart stir “reset” when Inop from sitting

Buggs
In February, I had a similar issue: When I pressed either the power or light button on the SpeedStir, the unit ran for about a quarter-second and then shut down. I replaced the batteries with new Duracell alkalines - no change in the symptom.

When I emailed Nate, he suggested the overnite rest. I tried that and the SpeedStir worked just fine the next day!
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Help Please - Aux Relays Not Working

ogdento
At this point I'd replace the transformer... it doesn't seem like the rectifier is bad. Ymmv :) (Actually I'd probably connect a low-voltage ac source to the 18vac input and make sure the rectifier converts it to DC, but I get that most people might not have parts/equipment to do that)

I'm not aware of a how-to guide but it is the top transformer... looks like yours is wired for 120v. The photo detail isn't that great but I can see that the yellow wire (240 v wire) is capped, the purple appears to go to your top circuit breaker and the remaining black goes to the neutral bar - so connect it the same way.
Click to expand...

First Opening Salt Question

PoolStored
nodnarb481 said:
CC: 1.5
Click to expand...
^^^ Indicates that you have bad things being oxidized and creating ammonia.
nodnarb481 said:
I'm just trying to completely understand it.
Click to expand...
If you want to COMPLETEY understand it, read Net Chlorine To Breakpoint (Ammonia "Oxidation") or CC elimination here:

Pool Chemistry - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

AND how the test shows us we have Combine Chlorine (chloramines), read Combined Chlorine Test here:

Pool Chemistry - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

TL:DR
You have contaminants in the pool. Normal chlorination will not clear it up. By raising your FC level and holding it at SLAM level, will complete the CC elimination and kill all the algae in the pool. Then you can go to normal chlorination. If you maintain proper FC for your CYA, you will never get algae.
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Slam salt level

S
The vast majority of the time, the "cloud" is:
a. dirt
b. pollen
c. dead algae
They can all look/behave similarly.

c. can be dark brown, medium brown or brownish yellow. No way to tell from the look what kind of dead it is.
If it has a greenish tinge, unknown if there is still living among the dead - but it is pretty highly suspect.
Live algae tends to be a bit sticky, so you have to lean into the brush a bit to get it off. And tends to make greenish clouds.
Yellow algae is a thing, but less likely than most think. It's hallmark is being very resistant to chlorine.
Do a full SLAM, making 1000% sure you pass all the criteria, including cleaning all nooks and crannies. If you then lower CL to the recommended range (but never to minimum) and it comes back quickly (a few number of days), then you might have mustard. Or do the regular SLAM again. And if it then comes back quickly again.....

Lake Placid said:
Calcium Hypochlorite will just raise calcium. Sodium Hypochlorite (I.e. Liquid or Bleach) will raise salt.
Click to expand...
Pool Math said both, in "Effects of Adding". @Newdude beat me to it while I was typing the other!
Click to expand...

Returns Not Working

J
Hello all,

Right now I have only 1 of 4 returns working and my pool is a gross shade of green. I have 2 questions.

First, is it OK to run the pump with only one working return so I can begin the process to get clear water OR is it important to have multiple returns working to improve circulation?

Second, what can I do to diagnose and hopefully fix the problem with the broken returns?

The return that is working is on the side closest to the pump. The 3 that are not working are on the opposite side of the pool. I have read some of the other threads in the forum related to returns not working. I tried plugging the working return and turning on the pump to try to blow out anything that may have been obstructing the other return lines but that didn't work. When I change the multiport valve to port 2 the working return does nothing, the returns that aren't working do nothing, and the filter pressure goes up significantly (from 10-20 psi).

Thank you in advance for any advice on what steps I should take next.

Jeff
Click to expand...

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