Rocket J Squirrel said:

This ought to be a TFP motto. Of course, it's true of people, too.

Click to expand...

What does?

Boston_Pool said:

- Replace spa pump with 1.5hp Pentair Intelliflo VSP
- Replace pool pump with 3hp Pentair Intelliflo VSP

Click to expand...

I want a 3 HP pump for the spa jets to have strong jet pressure.

I would go with two 3HP Intelliflo3 pumps.

Boston_Pool said:

- Install a AquaCal SQ225 to the left of the propane heater (or another heat pump -- open to other brands). I would like a bypass to select which heater I want to use (propane or heat pump) or bypass the heaters all together -- confirmed I have enough power. NOTE: heater on the right is for the spa

Click to expand...

Aquacal is good. So is Built Right or Gulfstream.

Boston_Pool said:

- Install CircuPool RJ-60 PLUS after the heaters (right now there is no space and the return pipe goes back under the shed)

Click to expand...

Jandy also recommends the HP before a gas heater.

Pentair recommends water flowing first through the Heat Pump and then the gas heater...

Welcome to TFP.

Maybe some pictures and a sketch of what you have in mind can get some ideas flowing.

Welcome to TFP.

Maybe someone with a similar AGP will advise you.

@Mdragger88

How you doing with the bearings?

jcrompton said:

all 3 tests must have been WRONG

Click to expand...

If thats the case, welcome to not really believing digital testers.

jcrompton said:

I assumed

Click to expand...

You're doing it again.

Get the 1766. Maybe the others start behaving and you can prove them occasionally going forward.

TFP is a member supported 501(c)3 non-profit that is volunteer staffed and has no ads. Your support keeps the servers running so we can be here to help you. It would be helpful if you considered supporting TFP so we can be here to help in the future....

Sorry, no one appears to have advice for your situation.

I am not sure what you are looking for exists. If you find it, let us know.

kimkats said:

What is holding the forms at the corner you have worked on? That looks like rebar but it might be sticks but still can hurt if someone falls on it. Yes I am a worry wort LOL

Click to expand...

Oh those! Ground stakes. It never even occurred to me since they sit so low to the ground but you're right, it could be dangerous.

jcrompton said:

how is the best way to measure salinity acurately??

Click to expand...

Nikilyn said:

Does this say it still has 80% of its life?

Click to expand...

Flip it right side up and you'll see its *used* about 80% of its life. its kinda useless though as we don't even know where the cutoff is. Obviously you could be 80 to 99%, but the light could also come on at 6001 hours of 10k, or 7001 of 10k. So you have between 39.99% and 1% left.

Also, its mounted wrong and its dangerous to have such a flimsy flow switch fighting gravity. It needs to be 'upflow' or horizontal.

jcrompton said:

So assuming my digital salt meter is inaccurate - how is the best way to measure salinity acurately??

Click to expand...

What is holding the forms at the corner you have worked on? That looks like rebar but it might be sticks but still can hurt if someone falls on it. Yes I am a worry wort LOL

Welcome to TFP.

Sorry, no one appears to have advice for your situation.

@Newdude and @ajw22
Thanks for your help! Turns out the clone T-15 cell fit and worked perfectly! So thank you
Weirdly when I got the new cell in - the salt reading was still 2500. I had another digital tester that was reading 3200 and 2 test kits read over 3000 on the salt content -- all 3 tests must have been WRONG because the minute I assumed the 2500 could be right and the minute I added salt the reading went up to 3400 (with 3 bags). So @Newdude you were apparently right. I wonder if the cell was really bad?

So assuming my digital salt meter is inaccurate - how is the best way to measure salinity acurately??

Arowdy1 said:

I'm ordering the 2 inch one . Glad I checked ! What kind of sand ?

Click to expand...

High-Rate Sand: No. 20 Silica Sand (0.45 mm–0.55 mm)


Pentair uses US Silica Mystic White II sand for all of their testing. It may not be readily available at Ace/Home Depot though. In general, we recommend getting your pool sand from a pool supply store and not a hardware store as they are far more likely to stand behind what they sell than a big box store.

Be aware that members have had issues with Quiikrete Pool Sand. Members find that Quikrete Pool Sand is too fine and perceptibly heterogenous (i.e., not filtered to #20 specifically). It does not filter well and tends to blow back into the pool. A search in the Forum can provide more information about the issues.

Swimming Pool Sand filters generally use #20 silica sand which is approximately .40 to .55 mm.

If the slits in the laterals are a little bit large and the sand is a little bit small, then you can get some sand passing through the laterals.

MYSTIC WHITE II filter sand has three effective sizes, 0.49 mm, 0.65 mm or 0.80 mm.

MYSTIC WHITE® II 0.49

MYSTIC WHITE® II 0.65

MYSTIC WHITE® II 0.80

Arowdy1 said:

Also I'm noticing I have more jets from pump into pool that I do not see any water movement thru them. Please tell me that's not hard to fix . There are several that don't appear to work .

Click to expand...

Depends on the way your pool returns are piped.

First thing is to look into each jet and see if it is clogged.

mas985 said:

What is the make/model of the pump?

FWIW, the return trip of the water in a fully primed system from higher to lower elevation gains pressure, not velocity

Click to expand...

thanks, its a hayward super pump variable speed...might be up to 1.65hp but definitely less than 2. pool lines are all 1.5in

You live in Phoenix. Daytime summer temperatures of 110 degF plus. I would not advise putting a solid safety cover over the pool and just leaving it without maintenance. Water temperatures will be in the low 100's. Your scaling tendency (CSI) will skyrocket.

Best to drain it and keep it dry and refurb it later. Might consider a drain and then cover.

Classic sign of algae in the water clogging your filter.

You can do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test or skip right to the SLAM Process

JamesR said:

I love watching your progress videos. Man are you tenacious! Do your neighbors think you’re insane?
It’s way beyond a homeowner DIY project.
90% of my neighbors can’t even figure out how to put air in their car tires let alone build their own pool from scratch.

Click to expand...

Thanks! This type of feedback is so motivating and I really appreciate it!
I'm glad you like the videos, I'll keep doing the little updates with them.

kimkats said:

Well done!! BIG progress!!! Now do something for me! Go buy some rebar caps. Sure do NOT want you or anyone to fall on that rebar!

Click to expand...

Well, there's no rebar in it yet! But rest assured, I'll get the caps. Definitely not leaving something like that to chance.

I ordered mine today based on this thread! I went with the 614iq, I sometimes leave my pool unattended for a week at a time and I need to be able to program the robot to run every so often. I should have it next week, just in time to hopefully open my pool after the PB comes and fixes the leak around my light. Water level dropped over the winter to just below the top of the light. I knew I had a leak but could not find it, I think I have found it now! Hopefully my new liner is not full of wrinkles from the lower water level.