Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

Jandy Aqualink RS

Jandy Aqualink RS systems provide automation for your pool, spa, and backyard. Aqualink RS is the full featured version of the Aqualink product line. There are also the AquaLink PDA and Aqualink Z4 products that have different control devices, user interfaces, and functionality.

This Jandy Automation Selection Guide shows the family of modular components across the different Aqualink models - RS, PDA & Z4.

Aqualink RS can be controlled by two wired control panels[1] - All Button or OneTouch - each having different user interface logic to perform the same tasks. Web connected devices can control the Aqualink RS with the optional iAqualink 2.0 . Apps are available for devices such as Android®, iPhone®, iPad®, iPod Touch®, or any other HTML5 web browser device.[2]

Jandy Troubleshooting Manual for AquaLink® RSAll Button and OneTouch™ Control Systems covers many common problems.


Controlling Pentair Intelliflo Pumps

Jandy Aqualink Installation Manual[3] section 3.2.7 describes how to connect a Pentair Intelliflo pump to the Aqualink.

While the Aqualink RS can control an Intelliflo VS pump it cannot control the VF functions of a VSF pump.

At one time Jandy's F/W was made to talk with the IntelliFlo VS. Then Pentair developed a new pump that was both a VS and VF pump, the VSF. Jandy's F/W has never been updated to drive the VF portion of the VSF pump.

Speculation is several years ago the Big Three (Hayward, Jandy and Pentair) decided to share their RS-485 code, so that they could control each others equipment. Not sure why that did not continue, but as time went on, the firmware running all these systems has changed, but the Big Three no longer keep this interchangeabilty in mind when they update their firmware.[4]

This is the main reason that we always recommend the same brand for products that need to "talk" to each other. It just makes things easier for installation and warranty issue.

Spa Drain/Fill

The spa water level can be drained or filled from the outdoor panel. SPA DRAIN and SPA FILL button are on the top left.

  • Put the panel in SERVICE Mode
  • Press SPA DRAIN. Turn off pump when spa at the required level
  • Leave panel in SERVICE mode while you do repairs
  • Press SPA FIL.
  • Turn off FILTER PUMP when spa is full
  • Return panel to AUTO
Jandy RS8 Control Panel

Auxilary Functions

Jandy RS Dip Switches

The dip switches are in the upper left of the load panel to the left of the control panel. See section 7 of the AquaLink RS Control Panel Installation Manual.[5] Older AquaLink boards have a single set of dip switches. Newer boards have a second set of dip switches.


Dip switch #1 makes AUX1 be labeled CLEANER.

If you have a pressure cleaner is powered by a pump then the booster pump should be connected to a relay connected to AUX1.

If a non-booster pump cleaner is installed, plug the JVA into the cleaner JVA socket.

Spillover Mode

If you have a pool and spa you can enable the Spillover function with dip switch #3 on the main panel. When switch #3 is on then AUX3 becomes the spillover control. If you have any relay connected to AUX3 you need to move it to an available Aux position.

With Spillover turned on by Aux3 the POOL/SPA return valve will move to the SPA position. Water will be suctioned by the pool and returned to the spa.

Automating a Water Feature Valve

You may have a water feature that is manually controlled by a diverter valve. You can control that valve from your Aqualink in two ways:

1 - If you are not using a cleaner pump connected to Aux1 then you can...

- connect the waterfall JVA actuator to the CLEANER socket - put dip switch 1 ON that enables the cleaner function - if you have something connected to AUX1 you need to move it to another AUX relay as AUX1 becomes the cleaner - you will find AUX1 is labeled CLEANER and I believe you can rename it to WATERFALL

When you select AUX1 the JVA should turn and enable your waterfall.

Actuator control circuit

2 - Or you can control an actuator using a high voltage AUX relay using this circuit. Aux relays use two wires - 24 VDC and ground. Valve actuators use three wires - two 24 VAC lines and ground. AC on one line will turn the valve one way and AC on the other line will turn the valve the other way.

You could use the Aux relay to control the 24 VAC so that it will turn the valve using the following circuit. But normal Aux relays won't work as they do not have any Normally Closed contacts. You need a relay that has NC and NO contacts.

Dual Speed Pump Relay

To control a two speed pump you need the Dual Speed Pump Relay Kit - 6796. This replaces one of the high voltage relays and will switch power between the high speed line and the low speed line. It has a 2 pin connector to plug into the PC board relay socket.

The relay type is DPDT, maximum 20-amps. Pump should be 2-horsepower maximum at 220 VAC.

You program the full duration that you want the pump on at high speed. Then you program the low speed as a subset.

The Zodiac 6796 2-Speed Motor Relay Replacement Kit is designed to use with Zodiac Jandy AquaLink RS Control Systems and also is compatible with Zodiac Polaris EOS and Sol models.

RS-485 Connections

The Aqualink RS board has one or two RS-485 connections. You can connect at least 2 sets of wires to each RS-484 connection. Depending on if your panel has 1 or 2 ports you can have 2 or 4 devices hooked up

Jandy has the #6584 Multiplex PCB Kit for connecting more than 2 sets of wires. It mounts on the left in the Aqualink panel. It's a green circuit board with 4 red 4-wire connectors. You run a 4-wire from the top port to a port on the multiplex. Then, you connect your other devices to the multiplex board. It's the same as running multiple sets of wires to the same connector. It's a bit pricey, so probably not worthwhile.

You need to have the correct firmware level for an RS-485 port to work with a Jandy device. You need rev. N or higher to use the RS485 cable with an LXi/JXI heater.

Aqualink to Heater “Smart” Communication via RS-485

With the RS-485 four wire smart setup you don’t have to set your heater to its maximum setting of 104 degrees. The setpoint on the heater display will now match what temp you have the Aqualink set to. And if you have a spa the heater will now display either the spa temp setting or the pool setting depending on which heat mode is selected on the Aqualink.[6]

You also get more representative information on the heater display itself, but from the Aqualink user interfaces it looks the same as before. You will get some diagnostic feedback to the Aqualink system should the heater have any faults.

NOTE: Only an AquaLink® RS System with firmware revision “N”, or higher, will support the heater interface. Refer to Table 6 along with Figure 18 and Figure 19 in the JXI Heater Installation Manualto determine the REV of your system’s firmware. If it is “N” or higher, continue with these procedures. If it is MMM or lower, follow the procedures in Section 7.2 of the Installation Manualfor connecting to a remote TSTAT

iAquaLink Wireless Connectivity

IAqualink Wireless Dvice.png

iAquaLink is Jandy's add-on device to add wireless connectivity to Aqualink. There are three versions of iAQualink - an older version called iAqualink IQ900 and a version called iAqualink 2.0 or IQ-20, and a new for 2021 iAqualink 3.0. The new iAqualink 3.0 has a newer radio transceiver with all the same functionality of the 2.0 version but the website claims that the 3.0 version has better support for mesh WiFi routers as version 2.0 had some issues connecting to them. For most folks the 2.0 iAquaLink is fine.[7]

Version 1 AquaLink is the blue web connect device. Version 2.0 is the white web connect device. You want iAquaLink 2.0.

IAqualink20 Wireless 2 Device.png

You need to know what revision number your system is at to know what kit to order.

iQ20-A iAquaLink Kit Includes:[8] iAquaLink 2.0 Web Connect Device.

iQ20-RS iAquaLink Kit Includes: iAquaLink 2.0 Web Connect Device. Main Power Center Board and AquaLink RS Firmware Upgrade.

IAquaLink 2 Device.png

The web connect device consists of a:[9]

  • J box housing
  • PCB board with the electronics
  • an outside vertical antenna

The Web Connect device can be connected to a home network using a wired Cat-5 cable or a using WiFi. Version 1 device supports 802.11b WiFi connection only[10] while the iAquaLink white 2.0 device supports 802.11b/g. It appears they are both 2.4Ghz and not 5Ghz WiFi and do not support 802.11n or ac protocols.

Version 1 supports WEP, WPA, or no encryption during setup while Version 2 has a WiFi Hotspot Method or uses WiFi Protected Setup to select the correct encryption method.

There does not appear to be any Zodiac/Jandy document that confirms the WiFi specifications, protocols, or encryption methods supported by iAqualink 2.0. It may take some trial and error on your WiFi router or access point to find the settings that work with the iAquaLink web connect devices.


Use p/n iQ20-A to upgrade these systems:

  • AquaLink RS - Rev R & newer
  • AquaLink PDA - Rev 6.0 & newer - If you have the Aqualink PDA, and not the RS, the Web Connect Device alone just adds wireless capability to your PDA system. You still use the PDA to program everything. This basically adds SmartPhone ability to turn things on and off. It is a wholly useless upgrade.
  • AquaLink Z4 - all revisions

Use p/n iQ20-RS to upgrade these systems:

  • AquaLink RS - Rev QQQ & older
  • AquaLink PDA - Rev 5.0 & older

If you have a AQualink PDA system the IQ20-RS changes your system from being PDA based to being web-based. You will no longer use your PDA to program Aqualink. And that functionality will disappear from the PDA menu options. This is a good thing. Like said above, you will never use your PDA again and it you want to recoup some of your money, the going rate for PDAs are around $500 or so. If you include your PDA antenna you could probably get $700 for it all. The IQ20-RS upgrade consists of a WiFi antenna and a new daughter processor board. Once installed, Jandy will be able to control your system remotely if you call for help. Be advised, if you lose Internet access, you will not be able to change any programming on your local system including scheduling. Scheduling will still run, however. And you will only be able to turn things on/off if you have a wired panel (like a OneTouch) or the PDA as a backup.[11]

IAqualink 2.0 Replacement Antenna

The antenna on the outdoor iAQualink transceiver disintegrates from the sun's UV rays on the plastic parts. The antenna can be replaced every few years with a 2.4ghz 18dbi Indoor Omni-directional Wifi Antenna rp-Sma Male Connector.[12]

Some older iAqualink 2.0 boxes have antennas that are not removable and are soldered onto the board. These boxes need to be replaced when the antenna breaks.[13]

iAqualink Working with Mesh Routers

Problems have been reported with iAqualink connecting to mesh routers like Eero.Ways to get a stable WIFi connection include assigning a fixed IP address to iAqualink, unplugging "extension" units (nodes) and setting the router to only broadcast 2.4 GHz. After the eero is "simplified" to a single node broadcasting on a single frequency - follow the normal reset procedures )turning the switch from Wired to Wireless and going into the network on a iphone and setting up the iAquaLink connection).[14]

Eero support's comment are that iAquaLink was seeing too many connections with the same ID (because of how the mesh works) and getting confused. By using only one node the iAquaLink only saw one connection on each network. Use the Guest network to keep an unsecured device off the main network.

Some people have found the easiest fix is to install a simple WiFi router or access point operating at 2.4Ghz to use for the iAqualink connection.

Jandy AquaPalm Pro Series Wireless Handheld Remote

Jandy AquaPalm J box.png

The AquaPalm is an add-on wireless remote for the Aqualink RS system and AquaLink Touch, OneTouch and All Button Control Panel Interfaces. It consists of the remote PDA and an 18 channel J-box transceiver that is different then the iAqualink J-Box transceivers.[15]

Jandy calls the same product both the AquaPalm Wireless Handheld Remote (AQWHR18) and the Jandy Pro Series Wireless Handheld Remote. It consist of:

  • R0444300-- Handheld Remote Assembly Replacement Kit which is the PDA
  • R0687300-- 18 Channel Handheld Remote Replacement Kit

The AquaPalm works with an AquaLink RS System ONLY, software revision “M” or later.[16]

The AquaPalm has a waterproof housing that floats; large backlit display and buttons; 500 foot range; and runs for months on 2 AA batteries.

The AquaLink RS AquaPalm will stop communicating anytime interference (such as a 900 MHz device) prevents a valid signal transmission. When communication is lost the AquaPalm Handheld Remote will lock on the startup screen until a good link is again achieved, usually within a few seconds. If communication is not reestablished within a few seconds or if this happens often, use the troubleshooting information on page 18 of the AquaPalm Installation and Operation Manual for suggestions.

How to Upgrade Jandy Aqualink RS4 to RS6?

Jandy AquaLink CPU Board

Replace the CPU board.[17] Always some on ebay but be careful of warranty issues. The are very easy to swap out takes like 10 minutes. System will need to be totally re-programmed when done. The instructions that come with them explain what to do. Make sure to get a current rev though a lot of people sell their old boards when they upgrade.

How to Determine the Revision of an Aqualink System

If you have the Aqualink All-Button Panel then MENU -> SYSTEM SETUP(press ENTER) -> DIAGNOSTICS(press ENTER)

If you have the Aqualink OneTouch Panel then MENU/SELECT(press SELECT) -> SELECT (for HELP) -> DIAGNOSTICS (press SELECT).

See page 13 in the Jandy iAqualink Product Guide.

Jandy Aqualink PPD/CPU Revisions

This list provides detail and years behind each of the PPD revisions from Jandy.[18] Additional detail on the changes in each revision can be found in AquaLink RS Software and PCB Revisions Nov., 2011.

  • A Programmable Peripheral Device (PPD) with revision letter C to HH will operate with all PCBs with a 44 pin socket.
  • A Revision I or II PPD will only operate with a PCB which has a 44 pin socket and is a Revision I PCB.
  • A Revision J or newer PPD will only fit into a PCB with a 52 pin socket (second generation of PCB).
  • 1994-Rev. A = Alpha testing.
  • 1995-Rev. B = Beta testing.
  • 1996-Rev. C = First production AquaLink RS.
  • 1996-Rev. D = Allowed Cleaner JVA socket to be assigned to an auxiliary by turning on dip switch 7.
  • 1996-Rev. E = Programmed ON times not recognized after freeze protection activates.
  • 1996-Rev. F = RS 2/6 Sharing a heater support, light dimming on RS 4.
  • 1997 – Rev. G = First support for SpaLink RS, Cleaner JVA can be assigned without turning on dip 7.
  • 1997 – Rev. GG = Cancel button locks-up system.
  • 1997 – Rev. GGG = Correction to GG.
  • 1998 – Rev. H = First support f or LX / RS 485 connection, memory expansion to 128K of ROM, SpaLink reads pool temperature and OFF when the system is not on.
  • 1998 – Rev. HH = Corrects time calibration problem with Rev. H.
  • 1998 – Rev. HH 232 = Support for RS 232 Serial Adapter.
  • 2000 – Rev. I = First support for OneTouch, includes serial adapter support. Note Rev I will only operate in a Rev. I PCB.
  • 2000 – Rev. II = Corrects problem with auxiliaries assigned to f reeze on OneTouch.
  • 2002 – Rev. J = Change to 52 PIN PPD and new socket on AquaLink RS PCB.
  • 2002 – Rev. JJ = Corrects problem with auxiliaries assigned to freeze on OneTouch.
  • 2003 – Rev. K = Support for FlowLink, items manually turned on will reactivate after going to Auto/Service/Time Out.
  • 2004 – Rev. L = Color Light Control, PC Docking, Laminar Light Pulse Control (LPC4), Chiller/Heat Pump operation, Run Time (circuits can be set to run manually f or 1 to 10 minutes or for 10 minutes to 2 hours in 10 minute increments). Will communicate directly with AquaPure Chlorine Generator only.
  • 2006 – Rev. M = Support for AquaPalm wireless remote, Change chlorine production from AquaPure. AquaPure (revision must be 11230A05 or newer). Assign OneTouch buttons to SpaLink RS buttons.
  • 2006 – Rev. MM = Corrects problem when entering into lights labels.
  • 2006 – Rev. MMM = Corrects problem associated with daylight savings which caused the AquaPalm to jump lines. Light dimming can be adjusted from AquaPalm.


  • 2007 – Rev. N = Complete change to PCB. The operating chip is no longer a PPD, it is now a CPU (Central Processing Unit) board. The AquaLink RS can be connected via the RS 485 line to a Jandy AE Heat Pump &/or a Jandy LXi Gas Heater.
  • 2008 – Rev O = Communication with Variable Speed pumps.
  • 2009 – Rev P = Communication with ChemLink, LM3, AutoClear Plus & DuoClear.
  • 2010 - Rev Q = first support for Touch Screen panel.
  • 2012- Rev R = internet control of Jandy Aqualink system via smartphone or web
  • 2018 - Rev. T.2 is the latest revision level[19]

Jandy/Zodiac PC Board Repair

Some members have had good experiences with BP Engineering, Inc. repairing their Jandy boards.


There is a 3.15 amp 220V fuse[20] (Jandy p/n 6658) on the back of the circuit board of the Jandy Aqualink RS.

Replacing the Aqualink Transformer

There are reports of replacement Aqualink transformers part #R0466400 have not had the proper 24VAC when connected to the board. There seems to be defective transformers in the supply chain. If you have the problem return the transformer as defective and get a replacement.[21]

How to erase color light assignment on Jandy RS panel?

How do you un-assign an AUX relay from being a color light on a Jandy RS-8 panel? System setup only seems to allow assigning a color light but not clearing it. "Clear memory" doesn't do it.

Apparently un-assigning a color light can only be accomplished with a Jandy One Touch panel. Download the AquaLink RS Simulator (AquaLink_RS_Simulator.EXE) from the Jandy site, install in on a laptop, plug a RS485 dongle attached to the Jandy into the laptop, and then you can to unassign the AUXes using the OneTouch PC app.[22]

Jandy Aqualink Cover Screws

The screws holding the cover panel on the Aqualink are 8-32 x 3/8” long with a combination 1/4” hex and Phillips head.[23]

Jandy Aqualink Cover Screws.jpg


  1. https://www.iaqualink.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/0748-91071/6594.pdf?force=1
  2. https://www.iaqualink.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0433600.pdf?force=1
  3. https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/0748-91071/6594.pdf?force=1
  4. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/need-help-with-figuring-out-pool-automation.192362/post-1695405
  5. https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/0748-91071/6594.pdf?force=1
  6. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/4-wire-vs-2-wire-jandy-heater-to-iaqualink.229677/post-2014304
  7. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/replacing-two-single-speed-pumps-with-variable-speed-pumps-maybe-new-electronics.233363/post-2063945
  8. https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/sl/sl6458.pdf?force=1
  9. https://www.iaqualink.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0435500.pdf?force=1
  10. https://www.zodiacpoolsystems.com/-/media/Zodiac/Global/Downloads/H/H0365300
  11. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/replacing-two-single-speed-pumps-with-variable-speed-pumps-maybe-new-electronics.233363/post-2064046
  12. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/replacement-antenna-for-iaqualink-2-0.222411/post-1948660
  13. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/iaqualink-antenna.229224/post-2011335
  14. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/iaqualink-problems-eero-mesh.219583/post-1922162
  15. https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0572800.pdf?force=1
  16. https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0574200.pdf?force=1
  17. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/aqualink-systems.194033/post-1710216
  18. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/jandy-aqualink-ppd-cpu-revisions.87511/
  19. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/iaqualink-brand-new-equipment-how-to-upgrade-to-rev-r.167497/post-1477668
  20. https://www.tcpoolequipment.com/pool-equipment-store/pc/Jandy-AquaLink-RS-3-15-AMP-Fuse-6658-p10802.htm
  21. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/iaqualink-and-transformer.200163/#post-1766850
  22. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/how-to-erase-color-light-assignment-on-jandy-rs-panel.231792/post-2030439
  23. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/jandy-power-center-screws.233446/post-2045104