TA total alkalinity
- By JamesW
- Testing and Balancing Your Water
- 9 Replies
I alweys prof reed mi posts so their is no misteakes.Mmm I sound prof read
I alweys prof reed mi posts so their is no misteakes.Mmm I sound prof read
Mmm I sound prof readOk thanks should I run the pumps then. Ace knowing that should I add acid at night when pump comes on .
Thanks
Ok thanks should I run the pumps then. Ace knowing that should I add acid at night when pump comes on .The "Slug" Method is an old discredited myth and even admitted by the person who made it up.
You have less variance than the cell, but you may be off and the cell may be right if they are close. If they are far apart, trust yours.Who’s more accurate.
No. I like to run the lower 3000s because we start tasting the salt more at 3k. So I'll start at 3400 or so and let the rain dilute it down to 3000 before adding more.Does it make more chlorine or stronger chlorine with a higher salinity?
That and and a tall glass of patience. The testing says you have killed the algae. (Or the bulk of it at least).hopefully it was the lights that just needed another clean out.
The only seawater pools I have heard of are continuous recycling from the ocean.
There is nothing wrong with a CSI of -0.37.However, at these levels, my CSI is -0.37.
Only because it is really hard to measure a PH above 8.0 and because it can be an irritant to the eyes.If I drive pH up to 8.0, I get CSI to my target at -0.14 but I feel like I'm right on the edge with pH, as my understanding is I never want it to exceed 8.0.
You are being too restrictive about the levels. Again, there is nothing wrong with those ranges.I could push it to 7.8, but that leaves CSI at -0.24, resulting in both pH and CSI a bit closer to the edge of my acceptable ranges for both.
Don't confuse recommended ranges with absolute limits. There is a lot of margin built into the recommended ranges and operating outside of the recommended ranges is not uncommon and sometimes necessary depending on unique conditions.Am I missing something?
Increasing CH would be the last thing that I would do as it is difficult to reverse. Focus on TA & PH.There is some ambiguity on TFP re: acceptable CH levels (the ABCs of Pool Chem calls for 250-650 but the sticky TFPC for Beginners calls for 200-400), but even if I pushed CH up to 650, I still end up with CSI of -0.21.
I don’t know how to do that.Where is the salt cell?
Can you remove the cell and show looking into the cell from both ends and looking into the pipe where the cell commencts?
Can you pull the grids and show them before and after cleaning?
Can you post all chemistry readings and all chemicals that have been added?
Yes, for the most part. When TA levels are high, pH rises much more quickly. This requires frequent dosing of muriatic acid to keep pH in range. Each time you add MA to drop pH, you lower your TA level as well. With top-offs, your high TA fill water will increase TA levels. This is the "battle" I'm referring to.Does it merely mean I have to control the levels with Muriatic acid routinely (which sounds ok)? Is this manageable?