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PSI shot up after backwashing

I think I could. This may sound like a dumb question but will water come gushing out if I unscrew this? Do I just unscrew the bottom one?

I just bought this rubber strap wrench set
Depends on the level of the pad in relationship to the water level. If you’ve got valves on the suction side of the pump close them. If you have any valves on the return side, close them. Post up some pictures of the entire pad and valves. You’ll probably need to unscrew both unions at the filter. Some water will drain out of the filter tank for sure.

Help!?

My kit is from 2021. I tested cya first, and that was the weird test. I dropped like 4 drops in and couldn't see the dot. Off the charts. I figured, man it's either incredibly high, or this kit is jacked. Then I tested salt. Which it said was on the low end, and my swg also says it's low, but leslies says it's 5000.

i haven't drained water from the pool in some time. Probably 2 or 3 years, when my filter cracked and drained a bunch without my permission. Is it a bad idea to go ahead and drain some anyway, while I'm waiting for a new kit? I just had a new roof put on the house, and neighbors were doing landscaping that kept covering the bottom of the pool with dirt. I vacuumed it, and cleaned the filter, but since I haven't drained any in a while, and all indications seem that cya is super high, seems like not a bad idea to drain some now, while I wait?

I don't trust leslies advice on what to add, but should I also not trust their test?

Sea water pool with SWG

A tradition in Iceland…


Newb Looking for Basic Guidance on Smart Controller Options

Automation is real good at controlling things such as pumps, lights, heaters, and valve actuators. However, monitoring pool chemistry and automated chemical additions are much more challenging. Not too many of us embrace this challenge. Pentair IntelliChem is probably one of the better recognized systems out there. Take a look at its capabilities and limitations. Search TFP for additional information. If I recall correctly @Dirk has this system and may have some comments.

As far as automation goes, much of it depends on your current equipment. If you have Pentair equipment, IntelliCenter would be the best choice. There are different versions so make sure you choose the one that meets your pool's requirements.

There are several form members that have built their own system and utilize nodejs-poolcontroller.


There are many different ways to automate equipment, including simple Wi-Fi relays and switches. I built my own DIY system for dummies. You can check out the link in my signature.

And then, there is the other side of the dummy spectrum. Check out this link.

Pool cover in AZ

Looking for some advice on a pool cover.

Bought my house a few years ago. Have a 1 month old now and need either a gate or a cover.

We don’t use it that often, and the constant filling of water and MA makes me think a solid/mesh cover may be the best option. That would reduce my evaporation and thus keep my TA down (phoenix city water is 120 TA).

I’ve never messed with a solid cover but would anyone strongly recommend against this? Anyone have recs on brands?

Help!?

Had a rough year last year and just couldn't keep up with the pool. Just used tabs (will never use again), dropped liquid chlorine and acid occasionally, and hoped for the best. I'm now in a better place, and trying to reopen. I tried using my old taylor kit, but the results were weird and chemicals were crusty, so I think I need a new one. Took my water to leslies for analysis, and the results were shocking. Pool is about 10000-13000 gal, fiberglass, saltwater (SWG was off the past year, but back on). Just cleaned cartridge last weekend after vacuuming algae and debris.

FC 10.53
TC 14.64
PH 6.3
TA couldn't register due to cya
CH 296
CYA 216!
Iron 0.3
Copper 0.5
Phosphates 1619
Salt 4911

Yesterday, I drained about a foot of water, refilled, cycled over night, retested this morning to see if this would help, and everything improved quite a bit except cya was even higher, and ph was the same.

So my plan is:

1. Continue drain and fill process until I get that cya back down to near 90.
2. Add salt to get to the correct level.
3. Adjust pH
4. SLAM.

Does that sound like the right approach? Feel like a stooge letting it get this bad, but spilled milk at this point. I appreciate any advice you can provide. TIA!

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New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

Redo the pH test. You need to fill to the top thin line, then test.

Just manage your pH, keep it in the 7s, your TA will come down. When you TA gets to 60-80, don't drive down pH. It should be stable around 7.8-8, which is just fine.
I’ll redo it now. I was thinking more muriatic acid now since we are probably going in in about an hour and can aerate it a bit

Connecting a Pentair Superflow VST pump to my Easytouch

Tim,

Whatever works for you works for me.. :mrgreen:

People are different, pools are different, pumps are different, cleaners are different, etc... you just need to set up a schedule that works best for you.

I am not sure that I would run 24/7, if I could not make chlorine 24/7.. It is one of the pros..

Another pro for me is that I never have to worry about freeze control, because the pump is always running.. I doubt that is an issue for you.. :)

The main reason the I even brought it up, is because running a single speed pump 24/7 would be insane... So, when you move over to a VS pump, it is not something that most people even think about..

Glad you were able to get your EasyTouch up and running with your SuperFlo... :goodjob:

Thanks,

Jim R.

RJ60 plus up and running

Who’s more accurate.
You have less variance than the cell, but you may be off and the cell may be right if they are close. If they are far apart, trust yours.
Does it make more chlorine or stronger chlorine with a higher salinity?
No. I like to run the lower 3000s because we start tasting the salt more at 3k. So I'll start at 3400 or so and let the rain dilute it down to 3000 before adding more.

Filter