Knowing if a water leak exists will help determine your time line and prioritize repairs correctly.
Use a reputable leak detection company that can determine the leaks location.
Knowing if these cracks are cosmetic or structural needs to be determined first.

It is not causing any significant problems right now, so far as I know. It has been happening ever since rooftop solar was installed last year. But, we were not using it for a few months.
I have two concerns - one, is it the start of a larger problem? $100 fix turns into $1000 if I ignore it? Two - if it's a bad release valve in the rooftop solar I want it replaced while under warranty.
I've put a call to the installer, and haven't heard back yet. I thought I'd post here also because there's so much more knowledge here than any one pool tech can provide.

Thank you fir the recommendation, your input is appreciated.

What problems is this causing?

How long has this been the behavior?

Yes
Yes

Leaving the metal coupler on allows easy connection of an additional length of hose.
This is why you don't just cut the connectors off.
The cut ends go on the PVC.

I can connect the cut end to my 1.5" PVC drain at the equipment, add the two pieces of the cut hose together to extend the length or add additional lengths of hose with connectors intact. I also have a 1.5" piece of PVC for the oulet end that goes in my sewer cleanout (two pieces of pipe connected with an elbow).

One connector is male and one is female.
I have the cut end attached to the PVC line at equipment pad and the other end is the female end. This is the hose that gets the most use and the internal threads of the female end protect the threads from damage.

To drain water to open area
PVC--cut end--hose--connector--additional length of hose as needed to reach open area

To drain pool to sewer cleanout
PVC--Cut end--hose--connector--additional length of hose as needed--connector--hose--cut end--PVC

Newdude said:

No problem, some have equipment in their basement and its no different. You just need valves to stop the flow from the pool on all the legs so you can work on the equipment without flooding.

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Thanks for the reply! That is what I was hoping for, it just makes so much more sense for hiding and being by other utilities. Thank you!

We used a multimeter to check some of the relays. We tested the load and line points on the relay that connects to "filter pump" and the line points were pushing power but the load points were not. We hooked up the SWG to the line points and the system turned on and appears to be working fine.

Apparently, we didn't notice that every time we'd hook up this SWG and flip the breaker, that the breaker we thought was for the UV system would trip. We didn't notice because the UV seems to have been tripping that breaker for a few years now, and I suppose we thought it was normal.

I dunno, the whole thing is a rat's nest of insanity and there's things hooked to things that have no power, and...whatever. It's hooked up to the line screws and says it's generating chlorine. I don't know if it's actually generating chlorine; cell volts says 25ish, the green "generating" light is on, etc., but I'm not seeing any action in the cell (even at MAX power) and we have about fifteen "return" jets in our pool with the in-floor cleaning system, etc., so any bubbles I might see are being distributed pretty broadly.

TinFoilHat said:

No registrar of contractors to go to bat for you against the poor builder and maybe help you with the bond the bad company had to put up, or was that money gone when you tried to get it?

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Nothing. Legal options only. And I just wasn't willing to continue to sink money into attorneys. I have friends who have been at this for 2 years now, with nothing to show for it except $35,000 in legal fees and an empty pool in their backyard. Infuriating. But for my own mental health, I just had to move on.

At best your RO system will produce 3-4 gallons of waste water for every 1 gallon of processed water. So at 70GPD you’re looking at 210-280 gallons of waste water. Adding a permeate pump would help reduce the waste but even the best permeate pump will probably just get you to double the amount of waste water. A high pressure industrial RO membrane (250psi) would be more efficient but that would require a pressurizing pump and stainless steel plumbing.

RO waste water is good for watering the landscape …

Luckily still in slam mode.
Water is just about cleared but had a dust storm come in Friday
Bottom of pool is covered in dirt
Robot doing double duty along with brushing and filter
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Dirk said:

Can you tie a knot in it, without deforming the net too much?

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I’ll give that a try next time I change nets.

When you say leave the metal connectors on, is that on the outlet end, where you are draining the water to?

If you cut the hose, then it’s just the soft, floppy opening that you put over the pvc outlet from the filter?

ajw22 said:

Are you asking about vacuum hoses or vacuum cleaners?

There is nothing new and revolutionary in either.

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Thanks for the question- I mean the vacuum hose head.

Are you asking about vacuum hoses or vacuum cleaners?

There is nothing new and revolutionary in either.

mas985 said:

3-4 gallons of acid each week? Are you sure you need that much? That seems crazy high especially in FL where you have high rain fall.

We have very high PH/TA fill water (PH=8.0, TA>250) and I go through about a box (2x15% jugs) of acid every 4 weeks in the summer hot months and every 8-12 weeks in the winter with rain and lower evaporation.

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Yep it's a new pool and it's pretty big. Plus we have a 32' Infinity wall so lots of opportunity to aerate. Also almost 800 square feet of surface area. I think when we cure it will do better but even my 12,000 gallon pool previously here in this area took a long time to cure. Never used this much acid in my life!

stretchphoto said:

I’m trying to decide what to throw away in my garage.

Thanks for the links.

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If they are more than a couple years old or of an unknown date, toss them.