I’m going to get a pump today and start the process. Before I start I’ll test the water temps of hose and pool. Thank you very much. The white sediment settling on spa floor is driving me nuts

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:

Are you sure your plumbing is 2.5". It all looks like 2".

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+1. Looks like 2 inch. Inspect the elbows….where the “Lasco” brand label is imprinted, the fitting will also have the nominal pipe size identified. 2-1/2 inch sizing would be odd but not completely out of the question. I can’t zoom in close enough on the pictures to get a good look at the fittings.

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:

Are you sure your plumbing is 2.5". It all looks like 2".

If you cut the pipe as shown between my line and yours in the photo below, how much pipe remains (inches)?

View attachment 647186

There should be enough pipe (1.25" or more) to continue with a 2"coupling next to the valve, then a 2" length of pipe into the pump union. I bet one of those unions accepts 2" pipe inside the fitting. If not, use a 2.5 to 2 in. reducer fitting inside the union. It would look very similar to your current plumbing, except the coupling would be butted up next to the valve...

Maybe I'm missing something?

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I was going to ask the same thing. It doesn’t look like 2.5 inch pipe.

Carpet under the pool is a bad idea. It WILL get wet due to rain over time. The dirt/grass will soak in the rain water and it will migrate to the carpet. It will start rotting and make a mess over time. You are much better off with the foam board being your only think under the pool.

stev said:

How so? Maybe I’m not seeing the bigger picture,
lol

If this is dry, and the rigid insulation is installed and then the liner over it how does the underlay and insulation get wet after the fact?

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Condensation. What kind of carpet is this?

Just following along with my morning coffee and do NOT have an AGP but found this online (AI).

• To minimize the risk of wet underlay, consider:
  • Moisture-resistant materials: Opt for underlay materials specifically designed to resist moisture.
    
    
  • Moisture barriers: Use underlays with built-in moisture barriers or install a separate moisture barrier layer under the carpet.
    
    
  • Prompt drying: If the underlay does get wet, take steps to dry it thoroughly.
    
• Considerations for Pool Areas:
  Pool areas are prone to moisture, so it's crucial to choose an underlay that can withstand the potential exposure to water.

Are you sure your plumbing is 2.5". It all looks like 2".

If you cut the pipe as shown between my line and yours in the photo below, how much pipe remains (inches)?



There should be enough pipe (1.25" or more) to continue with a 2"coupling next to the valve, then a 2" length of pipe into the pump union. I bet one of those unions accepts 2" pipe inside the fitting. If not, use a 2.5 to 2 in. reducer fitting inside the union. It would look very similar to your current plumbing, except the coupling would be butted up next to the valve...

Maybe I'm missing something?

I've tried both Morton and Diamond Crystal solar salts, and I've found there is much less undesolvable materials in the Diamond Crystal Natural Solar Salts. This is just a personal observation.

There are some pool salts that it is known on this site to stay away from due to contaminant such as the Clorox Pool Salt, which may use questionable means to process their salt, but all pool salts are more likely to contain contaminants than Natural Solar Salts for a water softener. Water softener salts are less processed than pool salts

The processing of pool salts requires milling to a powder. The mills use steel/iron rollers and as the rollers wear, they introduce small particles of steel/iron into the product. Also as equipment wears, they have malfunctions such as oil from the rollers leaking into the milling process. In my opinion salt with less processing will always mean less chance of contaminants in the salt.

Last year took a while to get going too, then stayed warm deep into the fall.

Thanks everyone for all the help so far, most of the parts have came. I am just making sure I have everything at this point. I am trying to settle on the utility pad location. I have heard of negatives but the ideal location for the utilities is on the walk out location of our house and the pool would be at first floor level. This would put the pump and filter 8 ft below the pool. Is this doable or for sure not a good idea? Thanks!

Get your popcorn and a strong adult beverage. At this point this one is getting comical. The filter bulkhead is repaired and the pool is as happy as it can be with it’s undersized SWG. Unfortunately until the Intellichem system is installed, I’m having to supplement the production of the SWG with trichlor. That’s ok, as I need to raise the CYA some anyway.

Fired the bubbler pump and found it was leaking at the pressure side union.



Not sure why one would install 3/4 of an o-ring in the union but I don’t believe they degrade quickly enough under normal use that it should be in that condition after one season of use. I suspect damage during installation.

Oddly I noticed this when really scouring the pad. Looks like a broken valve handle from a high quality $3 Everbuilt valve.



But why is it there? All the valves are intact….



This main drain feed is shared between the bubbler pump and main circulating pump. Because of the lack of a check valve on the bubbler pump, when the pump shuts down, the main circ pump draws back through the bubbler pump and both end having trouble priming. Until I can install a proper check valve and blowout port arrangement, I’ll just shutoff the main drain to the main circ pump….



Oh! Think the fence is a little close? This explains the broken handle bits…..I guess it’s a good thing Everbuilt valves are only $3. When you break the handle on the fence, you can afford to buy a new valve, use the handle and throw the rest of the valve away!

To cap todays installment, the builder left his calling card on the fence…


Is Chico a female dog because he only installed 3/4 of an o-ring on the Superflo pump or because he broke the Everbuilt handle on the fence and cost Builder Bob $3?…..you decide.

I’m still down here in San Antonio. Nothing is working, not even via the control panel outside.

rjb1211 said:

I was able to get the Splash Ready for less than a dollar more per bag than the Solar Naturals plus it was delivered for free so that is what I used. It was pretty fine with only a few small clumps and no debris. Worked great.

Just for reference what is the difference between these two? I may not get that same deal the next time I need it.

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The splash ready is finer granules so they dissolve a bit faster. I have used both and it is like 3-5 minutes of brushing for the splash ready and 5-8 minutes of brushing for the solar naturals. I may be slightly off on my time but the difference is negligible in my opinion. I buy whichever is cheaper.

--Jeff

PoolGate said:

I slipped the phone into my pocket so I could open the door while holding 2 beers.

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Maybe it wasn't so much *that* it was two beers, but more of *which* 2 beers it was.

Things get wonky at beers 28 and 29. Hiccup.

Jimrahbe said:

PG,

I find it interesting that you are blaming the phone...

That said, I have done the same things with hearing aids...

Jim R.

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LOL nah I blame myself 100%. Although I am a little perturbed that these phones are advertised as water-resistant and are not. My use case is the exact reason they should be.

oledan said:

I only find humor in your story because it didn't happen to me......

So, you destroyed three phones in about two weeks all by leaving them in your pocket while getting in the pool? I suggest you get some swim trucks without pockets or get one of those iPad size phones that won't fit into a pocket.

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Actually, this is what I decided to do. I will get swim shorts with no pockets (or else remove the pockets).

BTW: It was 2 in 2 weeks and that was 2 years ago and then just yesterday.

Mine got a 20 min swim last year. I was sitting on a pool noodle like a swing while floating around and I went to adjust a little and felt it in my pocket.

I had a $250 deductible on my insurance and thats about what it cost at the ifixscreen guy to replace the display. ATT had an upgrade deal going on so I fixed it and traded it in for a 3 year newer model.

Also PSA : your homeowners policy likely now has an electronics coverage upgrade which costs a fraction of the traditional plans through your cell carrier.

I only find humor in your story because it didn't happen to me......

So, you destroyed three phones in about two weeks all by leaving them in your pocket while getting in the pool? I suggest you get some swim trucks without pockets or get one of those iPad size phones that won't fit into a pocket.

tommelton said:

Can you widen the picture view to see the overall area that shows the relation to the pool?

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This photo was taken December 6, 2024

AQUA~HOLICS said:

The pool is most likely not sinking, the deck work may be lifting from the soil that supports the deck is expanding.
SoCal has lots of clay soils, parts of Anaheim have very sandy soil from the original location of the SantaAna river.
First, the reason for the lifting deck must be corrected, then the deck can be removed and replaced.

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Thank you for that information and help. We are hoping the concrete guy the turf company used will fix our issue.

Pas_pool said:

Should I raise the SWG to 40%? We are having some people over to swim today

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20% is only 1.5 FC and it got pretty sunny.

Go to 40% and add a gallon of bleach before the guests arrive. (Doesn't matter how long before, could be now)