Whirlwind of a few weeks... I did have time to go thru those pages.
What we want to do with automation. Turn on Spa mode, Pool mode, Bubbler, Spa Jets, Heater and lights.

We are going to simple it down.
So it would be a

Pool & Spillover Spa setup with a bubbler. Separate jet pump for Spa. Bubbler on pool mode.
2 pumps, Filter, Heater, SWG

So that puts me at 3 actuators.
Suction, Return and Bubbler (Pool mode)

On my HVRLs
1, Spa & Pool Lights. Ideally separate but have seen smart transformers.
2. Air Blower
3. Possibly (Whisperflo vst one speed jet pump)
4.
(2) expansion available

RS 485
1. Pump
2. Pump (if compatible)
3. Heater

Spa plumbing
Max 8 definitely jets. 6 on seating and 2 on lower. (Still debating if worth it for lower)
2 Drains to Filter, 2 drains to jet pump

What do you think Allen?


Suction

• (2) Spa main drains (split by tee)
• Pipe Size: 3" PVC dedicated suction line
• Design Flow Rate: ~120 GPM total
• Velocity in 3" Pipe @ 120 GPM: ~3.4 ft/sec (well within NSF-50 < 6 ft/sec limit)

Return​

• Jet Return Manifold: 2.5" PVC from pump
• Branch to Jet Loop: Reduces to 1.5" for distribution
• Jet Loop Configuration:
  
  • 8 jets, looped or manifolded evenly
  • Each jet delivers ~15 GPM
  • 8x15 120gpm

• Velocity in 2.5" pipe @ 120 GPM: ~5 ft/sec
• Velocity in 1.5" pipe sections (short runs): ~8.5 ft/sec (acceptable in spa jet loops)

That stinks, but is pretty typical for the TruClear.
Just FYI AquaPure and FusionSoft are also Jandy products. They have 3 SWG systems - you were sold the worst one. We tend to not recommend TruClear for these reasons...

I'm thinking the morning dose overshot a little and there was a little loss today, but looks like none.

Leebo said:

While I can think of a few issues in programing this, I'd like to learn more about your end goal. Can you explain to me in detail what you wish to do with this piece of information and how it would help you in maintaining your pool?

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thank you. Let me update and attach the spreadsheet I use for maintenance cost to serve as guidance. Might take me to the weekend to send it.
Thank you for exploring it

Clean your test vial...rubbing alcohol and dry it. Try it again.
Also, what are the dimension of your pool? L/W shallow D and deep D?
Also, next time you add, wait 30 minutes and test FC, report that too.

You may have just passed the first ever overday chlorine loss test.

Newdude said:

For curiosity sake, what was the FC target and how long ago did you add ?

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This morning I was at fc 9.5, I added 90oz of LC to get to 12. This was 4am This morning. 11 hours ago

TinFoilHat said:

First of all, I would question why they don't know that plaster will not stick to metal. At least not for very long. They are doing a fill chip out, right?

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I apologize for my ignorance but not sure you mean by doing a full chip out. Do you mean just chipping out the current niche and replacing it with a new one?

Brian.O1484 said:

running to y-buy to rent a dingo.

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$250 for the half day at HD and its was $70 more for the full day. I'd go through more money in ibuprofens doing it by hand.

For curiosity sake because loss doesn't always decrease as the process plays out, but what was the FC target and how long ago did you add ?

duraleigh said:

What sound are you talking about? I think I hear an air leak but can't be sure.

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I have uploaded another video where you can hear a whining noise from the pump and a gurgling sound near the sand filter intake. Do you think I have an air leak? How can I confirm this, and what would be the fix?

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Kaptain said:

Just got home and tested.
FC is 12, CC is 2.5

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Tested again and got
FC 12
cc 1.5
Cya 40

Opened on May 10th this year. Looks like this every year after I pull the cover. Had to wait for some test chemicals before I could get the water chemistry where it's supposed to be. Another day or so and the water will be back to crystal clear. Fired up the heat pump but I don't think there is enough heat out there yet. Supposed to be in the 90s here mid week so that will help.

Looks like its too late but if I were in this situation I'd just live w/ it and negotiate a lower final price based on the f up. Too many things to go wrong in the future.

@harleyl7 just converted his plumbing. He ended up with different equipment but the problem should be the same.

Deleted and replied

Just got home and tested.
FC is 12, CC is 2.5

tgsetliff said:

my liner has become very faded over the last few years. This seems to coincide closely with switching from a fresh water to a salt water pool.

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How old is the liner ? How old was it when you switched ?

First of all, I would question why they don't know that plaster will not stick to metal. At least not for very long. They are doing a fill chip out, right?

poolno0b said:

is there a resource you would point me to?

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If you follow the links on this page, you should do fine. But if you have any questions along the way just let us know.

KBreuer15 said:

ChatGPT says it will be safe

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Swimming is safe between min FC and SLAM for your CYA level. (2 - 16 FC @40 CYA )



The good news is chlorine burns off as a % of the CYA, so the much higher #s drop more per day.

Solely as an example : lets use 10%

10% of 55 is 5.5
10% of 5 is 0.5.

Its still going to take a while at 55 though. Report back when you test because it will be neat to see.