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ajw22 · Tuesday at 9:03 AM

I suggest you contact Seko for assistance…

Your local SEKO branch is

Spain

Address

SEKO Ibérica Sistemas de Dosificación S.A.
C/Juan Ramón Jiménez, 4 Nave 1
08960 San Just Desvern - Barcelona (Spain)

Phone

+34934802570

Email

[email protected]

Newdude · Tuesday at 9:02 AM

This choice always warms my heart. :hug:

It easy to maintain slam at the end, and super duper yucky sucky to start a new one in a couple weeks because you ended this one too soon. C's don't get degrees with a borderline pass here IMO, finish it with flying colors. You're doing great.

Rodent · Tuesday at 8:59 AM

Hi, my Softub was recently cycling the pump on and off continuously. I read on this forum that installing a 10uf capacitor to each of the temperature sensors would stop the cycling, so I opened the circuit board box and installed 2 x 10uf capacitors as described. I’ve put the unit back together and now there is absolutely no power whatsover. The pump doesn’t run, the light doesn’t come on and there is no sign of power on the control unit. I checked the supply and the fuse and it’s all ok there. Please can anyone advise what might be going on?
Thanks

Kaptain · Tuesday at 8:57 AM

This morning's test was much better. FC was 9.5 and so I only had to add 90oz of chlorine before heading to work.

petman · Tuesday at 8:55 AM

I will try the new software and am totally happy trying lots of things. The odd thing to me is that nothing has changed. Literally nothing for many years and now suddenly this weird speed thing. I have a Mac and can do all of the updating, in the past they only allowed the PA to be updated by PC I think but in quickly looking at the link you sent, perhaps they have now created everything for both Mac and PC.

I used the MobileTouch to adjust the speeds and that is the only way they seem to stick. I haven't tried unplugging the PA yet as it is under the house and a bit of a pain to get to. I know it doesn't really belong there, but it was an easy location for me at the time, is well protected, and haven't needed to touch it in years. Let me try all of these updates and see what happens. Seems a reasonable chance that this will fix it, but bugs me that the MT will work fine and is only the Mac and iPhone that won't work. I could also try my wife's phone as I haven't tried that either. Thanks again!!

Craig1225 · Tuesday at 8:53 AM

Good morning and thanks in advance for all the experts who assist novices like me here!
A leak has sprung in the pump housing and I have a neighbor who can repair/replace everything. This pump is almost 10 years old and instead of replacing the housing, he thinks we should replace pump and all, which I don’t disagree with.
2 things please:
1 . Recommendations to repair for the short term?
2. Pump recommendations for my 13,000 or so gallon pool.
Thank you!

Craig1225 · Tuesday at 8:53 AM

Craig1225 · Tuesday at 8:53 AM

TinFoilHat · Tuesday at 8:52 AM

I can see the fluctuations of my system by watching the wattage that my VSP pulls when the valves open and close. There is usually overlap between the zones and your new cam might have reduced the overlap a bit causing the last valve to be closing quicker than before it used to as it's beginning to open the next valve. You might be able to see this if you open the unit and move it through the valves, watching the last and the next valves. I know it's not easy to always see each valve fully while manually turning it all together.

kawisser · Tuesday at 8:51 AM

@Mdragger88 I know you're deeply invested in my progress, so I'll give you an update. OCLT showed a drop of 1 last night. CC was 0 yesterday. Pool is clear. I'm going to do one more OCLT tonight and if it passes I guess I'm good to go. Appreciate your help.

jvelas · Tuesday at 8:45 AM

Pool is a fibreglass pool Narellan 55000L it is about 5 years old. Last winter when I got the pool closed and drained the water there was like a white film all round. I opened it and now the film is there looks like it goes below the water line. Is there a product I can use to get rid of it?

We have always maintained proper levels it is sanitized through copper.
Last results were i was ending the slam

Alkalinity 84
Hardness 163 should be 200 but if this is calcium is it good to add more?
Ph 8.2 high just finishing the slam
Stab 50

Thinking of contacting a Pro to look at it but the people that installed the pool were terrible.

Thanks for the help.

jvelas · Tuesday at 8:44 AM

Kaptain · Tuesday at 8:37 AM

P00LNerd said:
Not to add to your start-up / change-over expenses, but the Taylor SpeedStir is a life-saver, when using these test kits. Some of the best 45 dollars I ever spent. And if you care about getting it cuick versus another $20, Amazon has it for $65.

I would have a lot more trouble having the patience to get consistent measurements while trying to hand-swirl the tube, versus letting the SpeedStir do its thing.

Another huge time-saver is their SampleSizer. I'd not want to do this without both, but if just spending for one vs. the other, the SpeedStir is more important than the SampleSizer.

I may actually order that SpeedStir, that looks handy. Thanks for mentioning this.

Grifter! · Tuesday at 8:36 AM

Seko POOLDOSE DOUBLE Instruction Manual (Page 8 of 92) | ManualsLib

www.manualslib.com

Hi, thanks for the reply, this is the link to the instruction manual, although it’s pretty vague….

Katodude · Tuesday at 8:30 AM

My M500 can do 3.5 hours. It also has an actual 3rd scrubbing brush. Hits some of the points you are looking for.

No idea on how it would handle that size of a pool.

tgsetliff · Tuesday at 8:28 AM

Good Morning TFP!! I have a couple of questions I'd like to ask here.

First, my liner has become very faded over the last few years. This seems to coincide closely with switching from a fresh water to a salt water pool. Based on what I have read, it seems that this can happen for several reasons and thats fine. My question is this... Is there such a thing as a Salt Water liner vs. a Fresh Water liner? or are they all basically the same?

My second question, I read in a forum somewhere, that a guy who had an above ground pool had an issue with termites that were burrowing underneath the pool and causing very small pinhole leaks in his liner. He stated that he even had a mat between the ground and the liner. Im curious is this actually a possibility? Last year, I notice that I had leaks in 2 different areas of my pool and had zero luck in finding where the leaks were occurring. I could see all little squiggly lines in the liner which seemed like depressions in the ground that the liner had settled into... much line a little burrow. Could this be termites that have caused my leak issues? I have tried using the food color method to find these leaks but I have not had any luck. Could these leaks be so small that the coloring would not be pulled towards them?

I appreciate any and all information!!
Have a great day!!
tom

ajw22 · Tuesday at 8:27 AM

Scubaduba said:
Q1. If I Drain to Waste for an extended period (say an hour or two) in order to drain down my pool a significant amount, will this possibly cause any damage to the filter element Grids?

Scubaduba said:
Q2. If I drain below the skimmers using the "Drain to waste" method, is it safe to just shut off the return line to the skimmers at the pump, and direct it 100% to the main drains? I also have a spa, I guess I would need to isolate these floor returns also?

You should use a submersible pump to drain your pool below the skimmers.

Many main drains alone cannot provide the water flow a pump needs. And some main drains hardly work at all.

Don’t put your expensive pool pump at risk for damage by running dry.

Submersible Pumps - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Why do you need to drain?

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

P00LNerd · Tuesday at 8:24 AM

Kaptain said:
How long should I wait in between drops. The CC test was 2 drops to clear but after 20 seconds or so a pink tint came back. So I added a 3rd.

Not to add to your start-up / change-over expenses, but the Taylor SpeedStir is a life-saver, when using these test kits. Some of the best 45 dollars I ever spent. And if you care about getting it cuick versus another $20, Amazon has it for $65.

I would have a lot more trouble having the patience to get consistent measurements while trying to hand-swirl the tube, versus letting the SpeedStir do its thing.

Another huge time-saver is their SampleSizer. I'd not want to do this without both, but if just spending for one vs. the other, the SpeedStir is more important than the SampleSizer.

P00LNerd · Tuesday at 8:10 AM

Around here, it's seed pods from trees. The maple "helicopters" are obvious, they will never look like "dirt", but the oak trees could be fooling with you. Their seed pods look a little bit like a caterpillar, and disintegrate into "dirt" when left in the water any amount of time.

Aside from those two, there's just a ton of pollen in the air, to the point where every dark vehicle looks like it's been coated in felt flocking. It's a dusty time of year.

We are dealing with all of the above right now, and yes, the bottom of the pool gets dirty quick. But no worries, it's too cold for anyone to be swimming around here yet, anyway.

ajw22 · Tuesday at 8:10 AM

Welcome to TFP.

Do you have a link for us to learn about the Seko double pool doser to try and assist you?

Brian.O1484 · Tuesday at 8:08 AM

I know it’ll be worth it I’m the end but there were a few choice words used throughout the day yesterday for sure

.

ajw22 · Tuesday at 8:07 AM

Glad you got it working.

Newdude · Tuesday at 8:06 AM

dleonard1122 said:
This thread is giving me PTSD

We shalln't talk about our builds. Its too soon.

ajw22 · Tuesday at 8:06 AM

Show us pictures of your pool, equipment pad and IntelliSystem panel you are asking us to help you assess.

Hard to assess things we have not seen.

ckendalls · Tuesday at 8:05 AM

PoolBrews said:
What your are seeing with the IP is that the IP has been handed out (i.e. allocated), not that is necessarily connected. Your router will display allocated IP's for a period of time dictated by settings in the router. Many routers are set to retain allocated dynamic IP's for quite a long time - some until the next reboot.

With a signal strength of 0% showing, you have no connection. It could be an issue with your antenna, or with the circuit board that handles the antenna. How is your antenna mounted - can you attach pic? Our builder mounted it on the side of the steel enclosure with the antenna mounted such that the tops of the antenna didn't extend above the box. Steel kills wifi. I only had a signal strength of 20%. I remounted mine so that the entire antenna rods are above the enclosure. Signal strength is now 86%.

When my builder stopped by for a different issue, I explained what I did and why I did it. They now install all new systems this way.

That sounds reasonable but after the failed attempt at static IP everything just worked in dynamic and the antenna looked connected with good signal and using same IP.

Actually I don’t know where my antennae is and was assuming its internal. The router is close on the other side of a wall.

Hotforteacher · Tuesday at 8:04 AM

I have a tagelus ta100d tank, and Pentair TM-22 multivalve. On every video I’ve watched on how to change the spider gasket, they always say you need to bleed out the air pressure from the filter. However neither my sand filter or multivalve have a bleed valve. However neither do I do this, or do I need to be concerned about it. Thank you in advance.

ckendalls · Tuesday at 8:01 AM

ajw22 said:
You sure that was not an old connection?

Could you ping the IP shown?

Yes and yes.

. I re set and relogged into the same SSID, which was frustrating because the pad was so sluggish and intermittently responsive until I tried and failed to go static IP which failed. Then everything worked dynamic IP without relogging in…

Newdude · Tuesday at 8:01 AM

TRX559 said:
then the outlet shoots up 6 feet to the top of my waterfall.

Thats the problem IMO. You need to shoot it into something so that it falls naturally. Then if you still need a valve you won't be restricting as much flow because it was already slowed down.

ajw22 · Tuesday at 8:01 AM

Give us a link to the light you installed.

It sounds like the light remote is independent of the Aqualink.

If the remote turns the light on and off and the Aqualink does not then it is a problem with the light remote.

Newdude · Tuesday at 8:01 AM

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