In response to @JoyfulNoise comments.
About the pH rising: If enough soda is added to cause the wholesale precipitation of calcium carbonate, then there is no rising of the pH, nor the alkalinity, and therefore, no acid adjustments are needed. (At least that has been our experience).

About the sodium chloride increasing: It is true that the sodium content increases while the calcium level decreases, but I don't see how the chloride content would increase.

About calcite nucleating and sticking on plaster pool walls. Yes, that is very possible. However, in the few times we have performed this procedure, hard calcium crystals have not stuck on the plaster pool walls. A few service techs have told us that they didn't have that problem either. Just in case, I would always suggest a strong brushing of the pool when/if this procedure is performed.

mknauss said:

It appears you have automation. Program the spillover to only run 20 minutes or so twice a day.
The TA of your fill water I suspect is quite high. With your high evaporation (exasperated by the continuous spillover) you are adding significant fill water volumes and thus increasing the TA via fill water. Thus you will need to add acid often, likely twice a week.

There are acid dosing systems. Not sure if Hayward has one but I suspect they do. DO NOT get a system that attempts to control pH and chlorine. Those fail to produce the results expected.

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Thank you. I don't even dare open the pandora's box of measuring the spa water and see if it differs significantly once it has sat for 24-48 hours without getting mixed with the pool water.

Yes, my TA water coming in is high. I have had to aerate on purpose and add extra acid in order to get the TA down in the past because it creeps upward over time.

It sounds like I can run the spillover a bit less than I do. It currently adds up to about 8 hours per week. I think that would recycle the spa water adequately at 20 minutes twice a day. That would be about 4.6 hours. I have lowered the spa before and it seems it rises about 1/2-3/4 inch per minute when in spillover mode, so if my spa is 36 inches deep, that should be plenty.

So nobody seems to have a fan favorite acid dosing system? I will avoid one that tries to do chlorine at the same time.

I’m sure they were the cheap knock offs. The 2nd thermistor that is in there now is pentair. The motherboard and touchpad are knockoffs.

CMH-CVG said:

I wish to enter a per gal or per oz cost, and each addition of a chemical uses that cost/unit value to calculate the total added cost per each chemical material

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While I can think of a few issues in programing this, I'd like to learn more about your end goal. Can you explain to me in detail what you wish to do with this piece of information and how it would help you in maintaining your pool?

Oh com'n, give us pics of the plumbing and the pad. Use it as the before pics.

So it has been two years since my original post. I thought adding a few comments might help speed up the lerarning curve or give some other new pool owners more confidence that they will figure out the testing procedure. If I did, anyone could.

It did initially take me a few weeks to get comfortable performing all the tests and some are more interpretive than others. Within a few months I had the testing procedures memorized as to how many drops of each agent and testing is pretty efficient. Now, on a normal basis I test pH and Chlorine every few days, TA once a week, CH, CYA & Salt every ten days/two weeks. If there is severe weather or a significant change to the water level I will test more frequently. Now, I think I understand my pool better, anticipate what it needs and when based on usage, temperature, weather and changes in water level.

I changed some of the testing equiptment which made a difference for me. First off, I threw the pH test block in the trash. The colors faded and my pH was way off, which caused me a lot of headache in trying to balance the pool and all along it was a shoddy test block. That story is here. I now use the Taylor pH Test Block, which is also more granular than the block that comes with the TF test kit (.2 v.s .3 if I remember correctly), helping me better interpret the pH level. You have to use R-0004 in the Taylor block and not R-0014 that comes with the TF kit. I also replaced both the test cylinders as the lines faded on them quite quickly. I bought glass beakers, a 25 ml for 10ml tests and a 50 ml for TA. It gives plenty of room to swirl the contents well. I don't use a Speed Stir, though you could find a dozen threads on TFP and the benefits/debates of using one. I opted not to go there.

The one test method I changed around was CYA. Rather than filling with pool water to the bottom of the label and agent to the top of the label, I just measure out equal parts of each and add them individually to the test bottle. For me that works better than using the label as a guide.

I will say it was pretty easy getting initially established but is a constant learning process. I have so much more to learn just about pool chemistry, not to mention all the other aspects of maintaining a pool, but TFP is a HUGE help!

I just did 8 bags of the Diamond Crystals Solar Naturals this weekend with no issues. It dissolves super fast - brush it across the shallow end three times and it's virtually dissolved. No sediments left behind either.

Rick T said:

Complete Set of Components

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Pentair or Cheap Chinese Generics from Amazon?

Link?

Supervised the vacuuming whilst having a frosty beverage.

I bought an all new manifold replacement kit.

• Complete Set of Components: Includes all essential parts such as manifold bypass valve kit (77707-0001), water pressure switch (42001-0060S), automatic gas shutoff switch (42002-0025S), high limit switch (42001-0063S), thermistor (42001-0053S), ensuring the integrity and functionality of the replacement assembly.

I thought possibly the thermistor was bad so got yet another new one. No change. I tested the thermal regulator in the kitchen sink. It worked as it should. I’ve also replaced the mother board and touch pad (non oe part from Amazon).

PoolStored said:

Lewisville lowes has 211 of these 1.5":

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-1-2-in-x-10-ft-330-Sch-40-Solidcore-PVC-DWV-Pipe/3133037

and 132 of these 2":

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-2-in-x-10-ft-280-Sch-40-Solidcore-PVC-DWV-Pipe/3133041

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DWV pipe is drain pipe. Not rated for pressure.

CMH-CVG said:

If this is possible already, please let me know how to do it thanks Carl

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It is not.

And they continue to crush them by stacking pallets.

Bperry said:

and consider options for replacing the water.

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Our 8 year old vinyl liner has a history of floating when our pool water gets lower than the water table, as we are so close to the lake. We are currently on day 3 of steady rain. We've tried partial empty/refills a few times. It would be awhile for everything to dry out prior to trying again.
Thanks!

Rob- said:

Thanks Jim, yes that is what the one I am shopping. Didn't even consider that it could be an old model or not the most current tech. I believe your information you have shared is invaluable and I will let you guys know what I finally decide. I have given myself until the end of the day today to make a decision. Mainly I don't want to jump into something that I will be second guessing - - I hate it when I get something and then discover afterwards that it had a feature I didn't want or need or it lacked something I wish I had. I suppose that is a common problem. LOL..

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My house is built on the family farm in the middle of a 40 acre field. My house can be surrounded by corn, soy beans, tobacco, sweet potato's or peanuts. When the tractors are in the fields working I get tons of dust, so much so that my brick house will turn a noticeably shade of brown until we can a good rain or 2. When they are harvesting the crops, the dust and debris in my pool can be alot. Both robots that I mentioned pick up the same amount of silt and dust off the bottom of the pool. My point was the robot that was twice as expensive did not perform twice as good. I honestly can not tell a difference between their performance. When i first got the evo a couple months ago my pool was covered in dust and silt. I ran it for 24 hours cleaning it out every 2 cycles and it picked up so much silt and mud I was amazed. Definitely get the extra fine filter for it.

Looks like HD started carrying 31% muriatic acid again!

Pressure rated sweep 90s are harder to find at the local HDs and Lowes. My pool builder used Waterway 411-9130 2"skt x 2"skt fittings (sockets on both sides). I also purchased some from local pool store. Lasco and Spears make similar pressure rated sweeps.

Passed the plumbing, bonding, and underground conduit inspections. Plumbing inspector came out and complimented my equipment enclosure (can’t wait to tell my wife that one and for her to say I need a bigger hat now ) I explained to him I did a 30psi test last night for a half hour with 1.5 loss, took a lap around the pool and said looks good I’m just going to give you the final tag I don’t need to come back out here and check your work. . So I started backfilling in the rain solo

Flare on the end are typically DWV...Get schedule 40 for all PVC.

Replace the thermistor or use a 10K ohm resistor to test the board temp reading.

Test only and not to operate.

The reading should be 76 or 77 degrees at 10 k ohm.