04cobraboy said:

I can figure a way to mount it that’s not an issue. I assume it has to have a signal to close and to open or it moves back to the original position once it is turned on or off depending how it’s set up?

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hardlyworking said:

I appreciate the help from the forum.

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Jimrahbe said:

04,

Most system are designed to move two valves at the same time, plus some extra.. Having an external transformer is just a cheap way to ensure that you don't blow up your existing system.
In most cases, using the existing 24 VAC is not an issue. Just something that I personally would not do.

Any 24 VDC single pole double throw (SPDT) relay will work. The problem is how to mount it.. You can use the '2-speed' relay for your system, which should have a place to mount it, but they are $$$$.

It will operate like any of your Aux Circuits.. It will work just like your lights work now.. So, if you can turn on your lights from your phone, then you can turn on this aux circuit from your phone.

Thanks,

Jim R.

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sande005 said:

My steel/vinyl pool is over 30 years old now. I have had to replace the liner twice due to age (so, ~10yrs per liner). I believe, most steps are fiberglass - mine are, and are original.
A gas heater is the most efficient - if you have a reasonable way to run the gas line. Water sucks a LOT of heat to warm up, so no matter what heater, be prepared for much, much higher energy bills. I only use mine a few days in the spring, and again a couple of days in the fall. A heater can be a "do it later" option if you want to hold down initial expenses.
A "bubble wrap" type solar cover can go a long way toward heating and retaining heat, just from the sun. Explore options, mine uses a manual reel to take it off, and it is a bother to cover/uncover each time the pool is to be used. Not too expensive, and can be added any time. There may be more modern arrangements than mine. An autocover is neat, but may drive your budget too high. It does need to be installed during the build.
Lots of debate about off season covers - I use a mesh type that can even be walked on, to keep the pool area safe during the winter. Others like solid covers, that are not walkable but do a better job of keeping dirt out.

BUT - the best, most important thing: Get a Variable Speed pump, and a Salt Water Chlorine Generator. This is a must. You'll otherwise go nuts managing the chemistry - it will be like adopting a puppy and needing to buy expensive food and feed it every single day. No exceptions. But, with the generator, the work load shrinks dramatically. I only need to check mine weekly, and it only takes 15 min.
The variable speed pump allows you to save massive amounts of electricity. Most of us run them as slow as we can 24/7.
Walk away from your builder if they try to scare you about rust and corrosion with a salt pool. The salt level is 1/10th the ocean, and most can't even taste it.

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HermanTX said:

The IQ30-RS kit provides you a new (and hopefully the latest) revision PCB. You also receive a new antenna 3.0 which works with mesh WifI systems.
There will be 2 RED connectors which are your RS-465 connections. As stated earlier - you can put 2 devices on each RED connectors. Most new hook ups need a minimum of 2 RED connectors Example of RS-485 connections- the RS 3.0 antenna, a VS pump and a SWCG.

I had an inside panel which I removed once I installed the IQ30-RS package. I use my phone app 99% of time and have it on an iPad if needed. But I find it best that one person controls the pool information.
I also did away with the spa controller. Mine was placed in the deck next to the spa and constantly being hit by things or the sun beamed down on it.

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Jandy AquaLink RS Multiplex Board - 6584 - INYOPools.com

6584 - Jandy AquaLink RS Multiplex Board

www.inyopools.com

ajw22 said:

Welcome to TFP.

You can control an actuator using a high voltage AUX relay using this circuit. Aux relays use two wires - 24 VDC and ground. Valve actuators use three wires - two 24 VAC lines and ground. AC on one line will turn the valve one way and AC on the other line will turn the valve the other way.

You could use the Aux relay to control the 24 VAC so that it will turn the valve using the following circuit. But normal Aux relays won't work as they do not have any Normally Closed contacts. You need a relay that has NC and NO contacts.

Can Pentair EasyTouch handle more than four actuators?

I am using the four ports already and I need one more for my last remodel. Is there a device I can use to add an extra port somehow? Thanks

www.troublefreepool.com

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ajw22 said:

Your spa draining down into the pool nightly is not a leak and is not a major problem.

Nothing will be damaged if your spa drains down nightly, and then in the morning, the spillover refills the spa for the day.

I am happy to continue working with you to find out what is siphoning, or you can accept that is the way your pool works.

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Newdude said:

Do the bottles have both #s with 25xxxxxxx ?

In this, um, case (hehe), they're both plenty fresh and close in date, but we don't know which is the right one from the box. Maybe the other 25something # is their normal product code or whatever and it just happens to look Julian.

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James L. said:

Huh. Which is better?
And, with this information, where is the (likely) blown chip?

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dmg2253 said:

Do you think separate plumbing without the spillover would be better?

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ajw22 said:

Welcome to TFP.

There are members who do and they work fine if properly installed. It may take a while as folks return here for the start of their pool season.

The challenge seems to be how the spa to pool spillover is implemented. That sets the maximum spa water level, lets the spa water be refreshed with pool water, keeps the water chemistry the same between the two, and shares the equipment.

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