Hey gents -
So after 2 hours, I tested for CYA again and the sample looked as it did before.
I've now added an additional .5oz of Dichlor (14g), so just under 1.5 oz total (39.5g total).

The CYA test is still showing as mildly cloudy with a full vile (up to the 30 mark). I'm now out of the CYA R-0013 (more ordered from Amazon).

Does this sound right? Should I just keep adding Dichlor?
As an aside, this is the product I'm using.
sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione 100%

When in doubt just pour it back into the mixing bottle and go it again. Direct light into the tube will obscure it more then it really is that's why bright sun or bright light from behind you and the vial gets held waist height in the shadow. Take a peak, still see it add to the next line and rinse and repeat till you don't see it but do not stare at/for it.

You say a Hayward vs 500? That is a pump model not a filter.

KCNM said:

Both on here and with my local hardware store, the Jandy Truclear are not highly spoken of

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Its the budget model, the same as Pentair's IC15/IC30. There's nothing inherently wrong with that, but it also is what it is.

If any of them did as much, for as long, nobody would spend more on the flagship models.

If you do not have an Aqualink then dump the TruClear.

Consider a Circupool RJ Series. Especially if you can DIY the installation.

Newdude said:

I'd want to plug the pool opening also so the pipe isn't a stagnant breeding ground for algae.

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Adding to this, you will want to get as much water out as possible. I have and old equalizer line between one skimmer and the pool. The pool side was vinyled over. The skimmer side was plugged. After about 6 months with new liner, the vinyl started stretching out inside the plastic ring around the vinyl Ed over equalizer line. I opened the plug in the skimmer and got a whoosh of gas and nasties…bacteria of some sort had taken root. Got a shop vac with a long hose and got as much water, etc. as possible out of the line and recapped. Stretching as not returned.

dogsbody said:

this idiot now waits two days between dichlor tests/additions, and that allowed me to hit 45ppm with the latest 20gm dose

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this idiot listened to his tub and succeeded. (that pesky theme again )

Yours might behave a bit differently too, and we'll adjust the gameplan as necessary.

Also for both of you, only use the 10s for CYA. It doesn't read how it looks between the lines so we call 31 to 39 a 40. (Etc) You might as well just fill to 30 and 40 at that point and save the trouble scrutinizing it.

20 and below is shady too, so consider anything under 30 to be 20, add 10, and wait to confirm. Repeat as necessary.

If you dump and fill, you know it's 0 and you can just add 30 once you're sure you have the gallons dialed in.

Welcome to the forum
Do you have either a gas fired heater or waterline tile? If neither, no concern on the CH of 130. It is fine.

Hey rcasper and Welcome !!!!

For inheriting somebody else's chemical stew, you are sitting PRETTY.

rcasper05 said:

I was a bit worried about some things

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No more. Absolutely none of that. Come tell us what things are, and ask if you should step in or let it ride.

TA of 50+ is fine and it helps keep the PH from rising. Imagine the two are rubber banded together. TA will pull Ph with it, and with Ph wanting to naturally rise, a slightly lower Ph combats that. We usually shoot for 60, but if it settles at 50 it's close enough for government work.

Calcium will only matter for you with a gas heater. And it still dosent matter, but it does for the warranty because the industry says it does. (Really outdated thoughts there...... steam boilers in the early 1900s and such, where it did matter)

rcasper05 said:

Free Chlorine 8 (Worried me

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Here's the deal. Minimum FC is Swampville. It's not absolute, but it's a chance. The more chances you make, the more chance you have to visit Swampville.

Everyday the sun burns off FC. As it gets warmer (higher sun angle/ more daylight) it will burn more per day. Then it gently falls through the fall back to very little for the winter. A big storm or swim day may also consume some FC, although likely not as much as the UV/sun.

Your mission, is to remain free and clear above min FC per your CYA. Loosing 1 ppm per day right now ? Then an 7 is a couple days supply at 50 CYA. In July you might lose 4ppm a day and a 7 is barely gonna cut it.



You adjust the cell runtime (%) or the hours of said % to make more or less FC to match the loss of that part of the season. Plus a little wiggle room for a particularly high UV day or big storm out of the blue.

24 hours at 25% = 6 hours producing
12 hours at 50% = 6 hours producing
6 hours at 100% = 6 hours producing.

Math at will, it's all the same.

An Aquarite T3 cell will make 1 FC about every 4 hours for you. Again, math at will with hours or % when you need 3ppm a day. (Etc). In the above examples, 6 hours producing will make about 1.5 ppm per day, probably about right for right now.

Click on the below links to dive further.

Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels

mwhitney said:

OK - round two of the Dichlor. .5 oz the fist go, waited 30 minutes with the circulation pumps going and added .4 oz (.9 oz - 25.5g) total over the course of 60 minutes. I did this as per @PoolStored 's recommendation:

I figured of 6.0 is the goal, then just under 1 oz should get me there.

The CYA test vile is filled to the 30 mark but the dot is still visible (about half-way on the cloudiness 'scale'). I don't want to overdo it. Can I expect that the CYA level will continue to change over the day, or should I be adding, say, another .5 oz to the tub.

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Vocabulary lesson time, my canuck friend: The plastic tube is a "vial". "Vile" is what your tub turns into if you just ignore all this business.

My experience was exactly as yours: The dot didn't quite disappear with the vial full (and in fact continued to do that even after another addition of dichlor), so with the following addition I wildly overshot. With all due respect to the experts here, this idiot now waits two days between dichlor tests/additions, and that allowed me to hit 45ppm with the latest 20gm dose. I knew it was going to take some time (and a lot of R-0013!) to get my legs under me with this stuff, but the dichlor/CYA part is clearly the biggest PITA of the lot.

The secondary should be 22 to 30 volts DC.

It looks like 12 wires from the secondary.







(1) Brown

(1) Brown/white 19 volts

(2) Blue.

(2) Blue/White

(2) Orange.

(2) Orange/white

(1) Yellow

(1) Yellow

mwhitney said:

I'm realizing how quickly I'll blast through the CYA Reagent (R-0013). I found this on Amazon.

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This is the one I went for: 32oz bottle. That's in US dollars, though, so add shipping (within the US) and it quickly turns into $50 CAD. But I'm getting twice as much, and my situation is a little unusual in that I have a mailbox in MT, which makes getting a lot of stuff from the US much easier, if somewhat slower (I don't go down to collect batches of goods very often). So that 16oz from Amazon isn't bad at all.

It can take 120 volts or 240 volts on the primary.


Show the label on the Transformer.

Check the voltage going into the transformer (Primary) and going out (Secondary.










The Primary has two sets of windings.

For 240 volts, they are in series.

For 120 volts, they are in parallel.