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Brand New Max e Therm burning through igniters literally

J
The DPDT relay has Normally closed contacts from S1 and S2-FS (Red Dots) to the Flame Sense Voltage Terminals (Blue Dots).

S2-FS should have 90 volts to ground all the time (except when the ignitor is energized) to detect a Flame when no call for heat.

The Top Blue Dot is connected to S1, but the top blue dot is a dead terminal.

The bottom Blue Dot has 90 volts AC connected to S2-FS, which sends voltage to the HSI (Hot Surface Ignitor).

The voltage will go to S1 through the HSI (Hot Surface Ignitor)(Orange Line), but there will be no current because the top blue dot is not connected to a ground or neutral.

So, if you measure from S1 to Ground or S2 to ground, you should get 90 volts AC.

If you measure from S1 to S2, you should get 0 volts.

During the 20 second ignitor heatup, S1 connects to 120 volt line power and S2 connects to Line Neutral and the HSI should use 3.9 amps (450 watts).

Then the relay switches back to Flame Sense mode.

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Need guidance in regards to the Inteliflo3 VST 1.5 HP versus the Inteliflo3 VST 3.0 HP

Jimrahbe
srjarma said:
So why has every person I have talked to suggested in getting the 3.0 HP pump when it looks like the 1.5 HP would work? Am I missing something? I know the lower RPMs mean more efficient and essentially more cost effective. I can't move more water more efficiently with the 3.0 right with the 1.5" plumbing?
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S,

Because turnovers don't matter, and your pipes being 1.5" don't matter either...

This is a VS pump and the goal is to run as slow as you can, not as fast as you can..

The larger the pump the more water you can move at a lower RPM..

As an example... I run my 3 HP IntelliFlo 24/7, mostly at 1200 rpm, for less than $20 bucks a month.. And my pump is about 12 years old and in is not nearly as energy efficient as a newer IntelliFlo3

I never, ever recommend a smaller (1.5 HP) VS pump.... I too recommend the larger (3 HP) VS IntelliFlo3 And.. I don't get paid to sell you anything.. :mrgreen:

The price is almost the same anyway..



Edit.. I forgot to add that at 1200 rpm, you have to touch the pump to make sure it is still running.. It is that quiet!!!

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Sanitatizing Fill Off Irrigation Line

Newdude
ol_whistle_britches said:
You, sir, are dashing my hopes of being a unique and special pool owner snowflake.
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Just doing my part to make you really think it through. If it's appropriately weighed out and you still want to forget ahead, then there's less chance of regrets. (y)

And then maybe more work/expene setting up filtering and UV for unpotable water.

If i have to go out and turn it on, and adjust it and then remember to check and turn it off......... why am I not just using a hose for the same effort ? It's no longer an autofill, It's a more complicated turn on the hose setup.

The city water/autofill is hands off.
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Sanitatizing Fill Off Irrigation Line

O
You, sir, are dashing my hopes of being a unique and special pool owner snowflake. LOL!

I should just replace the autofill valve with an ultrasonic tank level sensor and a PLC… I’ll straight pipe the irrigation circuit over towards the pool at an upward 45 and let it arc into the pool like a water fountain when the sensor calls for fill.
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Clogged Vacuum Line / Plumbing Question

B
PoolStored said:
This valve is closed
View attachment 629966

Can you provide some more pictures with some wider pictures of your pad...it is not clear what this is from the limited view...
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Hello,

Yes, I understand the valve is closed in that orientation. I was curious what the small pipe with the fitting on the top was used for. I actually ended up using this with an air compressor to blow the clog out of the vacuum line but I am having trouble finding exactly what this is supposed to be used for. Maybe I used it for it's intended purpose? Haha The valve you mentioned is used to switch between skimmer and vacuum port suction. The vacuum port line was partially clogged but the skimmer line was good.
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New EVO 614i Robot Pool Cleaner Review

R
RamenLover said:
Howdy all, I received my EVO 614iQ a few weeks ago from Marina and so far I must be doing something wrong because it doesn't really do much. Previously had a Dophin I think? It was amazing, cleaned everything, filled up the basket with leaves and dirt.

I wonder if I'm doing something wrong. When I run the EVO, at the end of the 2.5 hour cycle, there is very little dirt captured and no leaves. My Dolphin would have something like 10x the amount of dirt and leaves from a 1 hour cycle.

The EVO just kind of moves around kicking up dirt.

I've tried contacting Marina but no response.

Anyone have any thoughts?
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Must be defective. Just got mine yesterday and it got everything on one cycle after not vacuuming the pool for about two weeks. I’m very impressed so far. A lot better than my dolphin was so far.
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Need guidance in regards to the Inteliflo3 VST 1.5 HP versus the Inteliflo3 VST 3.0 HP

S
I am looking into getting a new pump for my pool and I am looking for guidance between the two Inteliflo3 VST pumps. I am looking for some advice from someone who is not in the market in selling me a pump. Every person I have talked to has told me to get the 3.0 HP pump but unable to answer my questions.

My pool is 20,000 gallons roughly and my plumbing is all 1.5". I have no water features like a waterfall or fountain. I have 4 jets and two skimmers with a main drain. My pad for my filter and pump are right next to my pool so the distance is minimal.

I looked into the turnover rate for the 1.5 HP pump and it looks like it would work for my pool. 20,000 gallons / 6 hours = 3,333 gallons per hour. 3,333 / 60 = 55 gallons per minute. So I could turn over the pool three times at 6 hours if needed but could also reduce it to 8 hours if needed. The manual for the 1.5 HP pump's manual says that it can be between 30-90 gallons per minute. I understand that the rate for 1.5" plumbing is like 45 gallons per minute for optimal efficiency (according to the internet).

So why has every person I have talked to suggested in getting the 3.0 HP pump when it looks like the 1.5 HP would work? Am I missing something? I know the lower RPMs mean more efficient and essentially more cost effective. I can't move more water more efficiently with the 3.0 right with the 1.5" plumbing?
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Pentair Intellicenter set up help

Jimrahbe
B,

The IntelliCenter does not use WiFi nor the ScreenLogic protocol adapter.. The outside antenna should connect to the inside antenna, but it is not WiFi.

Quit trying to set up WiFi..

Your outside antenna is connected to the IntelliCenter's Ethernet port like it should be.. Your inside antenna should be hard-wired to your home Ethernet.

It appears like your Ethernet link is working to me...

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Pentair Intellicenter set up help

B
We have the Pentair Intellicenter control panel. Pictured is manual and equipment to set up the inside components. The manual says the protocol adapter is needed. Our PB said he spoke to Pentair and that it's not needed. The person he hired to do our pool school believes it is. We've plugged in the interior equipment into the power source and router. The exterior box is unable to connect to wifi. Can it be set up without the protocol adapter? I'm unsure if our exterior equipment is installed correctly.
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Where to look for programming - Intellipro VSF and Intellitouch (old)

Jimrahbe
Scott,

The Intellicom is just used to control the pump.. normally when you do NOT have an automation system... It has zero to do with the valves

In most systems... the IntelliTouch com port controls things like..

1. Pentair VS pumps
2. Pentair Remotes..
a. Wireless remotes via an antenna at the equipment pad.
b. Wired remotes via a 4 wire cable
3. Pentair Saltwater Chlorine Generators (SWCG)

You might want to think about upgrading to the new IntelliCenter with an upgrade kit.. The kit itself costs about $1,100 bucks, plus installation.

Personally, I'd be ripping it apart and removing the IntelliCom... Unless the previous owner can tell you why it is there.. If you take some good pics, you can always put it back together. It is really a pretty bullet proof system...

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Replacement - hire out or can we DIY? Is this the anode leaking?

1
peakahn said:
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The most common reason to see a leak on the outside of the heater in that area is the pressure switch has gone bad. Remove the panels and you will se it on top of the manifold. Also, the temp sensor is in that area. If not there, then look at the hi-limits on the right of the manifold.
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Pool Cover Pump Squawking

1
Musty_Rusty said:
I was rinsing off my automatic pool cover and having the pool cover pump to pump off the water and silt. When the pump came on it started squawking really loud like it had a dry bearing. Is there any way to lubricate the bushings or bearings in the actual pump? It is a Little Giant APCP–1700.

The pump works but I am not sure how much longer with dry bearings/bushings.

Thanks,.
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Unfortunately, those are basically "throw away" pumps. They are sealed, and probably oil-filled, so as to be able to work in that wet environment. It would likely cost more to repair, if you could find a shop to do so, than to purchase. Its $147.95 on Amazon.
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