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ajw22 · Mar 1, 2025

poolboyK said:
Additionally, we open in May in NY

I open my pool around April 15 in NJ.

Jimrahbe · Mar 1, 2025

M,

The labels do not look right to me either.. :scratch:

It would be pretty stupid to plumb two skimmers together on the same line at the equipment pad..

As a test, I suggest that you turn the handle of the pipe marked "skimmers" so that it points straight up.. In theory, this should shut off both skimmers.. Then go look at each skimmer and see if they are working or not..

Please tell us what you find.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Texas Splash · Mar 1, 2025

Welcome to TFP! :wave:

JohnT · Mar 1, 2025

That comparator doesn’t seem right to me.

@Sarah and Nate

bennionr · Mar 1, 2025

I noticed recently that when I measure the pH using the kit my pool builder gave me, I get different results than using the tf-pro. Using the pool builder's kit, which uses a chlorine neutralizer prior to the pH test solution, the pH looks pretty good. I'd say 7.7 or 7.8. Using the tf-pro, it looks more concerning, like 8.1 I think. It's hard to read though because the scale is so light. I just recently bought a refill for the tf-pro, so the chemicals are fresh. Leslie's seems to agree with the pool builder's kit, saying it's only 7.7 or so. Am I doing anything wrong in the testing?

Levels:
pH 7.7-8.1?
Chlorine: 16
TA: 80
Salt: 4200
Calcium: 775
CYA: 90
Borates: 40

Thank you!

bennionr · Mar 1, 2025

bennionr · Mar 1, 2025

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta · Mar 1, 2025

I love my Betta SE Plus. Not gimmicky. Does a great job clearing small floaties and helps to keep the skimmer clear. Pushes stuff off the sides and in areas of weak circulation.

This is a good thread. I opted for the 3 year warranty for some piece of mind.

Betta SE Plus

Well, I was randomly surfing on Amazon (yes I have a problem). And I discovered a Betta SE Plus. It has the missing feature we were all looking for adaptor based charging in addition to solar. Now I just got my Betta 2 back, but had they offered me an upgrade to the plus I probably would have...

www.troublefreepool.com

sanjoe · Mar 1, 2025

Nearly 20yr old Gunite 18k pool with a spillover spa and spa blower is not working. Have a separate pump motor for a Polaris cleaner that went out recently and decided not to replace. (Went with robotic cleaner) How to tell if spa blower is plumbed to this broken pump motor or if we just need to replace the spa blower?

sanjoe · Mar 1, 2025

JamesW · Mar 1, 2025

JamesW · Mar 1, 2025

JamesW · Mar 1, 2025

dmk · Mar 1, 2025

It only happens to me when I turn on the spa while the pool is scheduled and on, and the pool schedule ends while the spa is on. When the spa turns off (either manually or when its egg timer expires), the pool resumes but after its scheduled end time so it never turns off. Manual override and manual heat are also both disabled on my system, maybe this is related.

All the other scenarios mentioned do work correctly.

JamesW · Mar 1, 2025

JamesW · Mar 1, 2025

JamesW · Mar 1, 2025

dmk · Mar 1, 2025

SA Pentair User said:
I finally took the plunge and updated to 3.002 yesterday. Some comments below.

The multi expansion panel bug that reared its head in 2.026 is gone

Most of the other bugs that appeared in 2.006 and 2.017 appear to have been fixed.

Integration with Control4 via the official driver was a little scary and required two reboots of the IntelliCenter and one reboot of Control4 to start working properly but has been rock solid for 24 hours now.

I haven’t tested multiple IntelliBrite lights yet to see if the problems (with large numbers of such lights over multiple panels) from v1 and v2 are still present as I converted these to generic lights in Pentair a few weeks ago (as reported elsewhere) and moved the colour control from Pentair to Control4 to get stability.

I noticed this a few days later. At first glance it looked to be working fine with temps and status of circuits showing in C4 but I couldn’t turn my SPA on a few days later until I rebooted Director.

JumpingGecko · Mar 1, 2025

JumpingGecko said:
The control panel on my Pentair Mastertemp400 heater has stopped getting power. I’ve read other post trying to fix this myself, but I’m at a point where I don’t know what to check next. Any guidance would be much appreciated.

My system is about 15 years old and it’s a Pentair Easytouch control panel connected to a Mastertemp400 heater. We use the heater several times a week and it has been working fine for the last couple of years. I know that I have to have the spa on for the heater to get power. When I press the ‘spa’ button I no longer see “HEATER” displayed on my easy touch control panel and no lights light up on the heaters control panel.

Here is what I’ve done so far:

I checked the voltages on the heater and I’m getting 220VAC input and 28VAC out of the transformer. I checked the plugs to the control board and the 4-pin connector at J7 has 28VAC and the 5-pin connector at J1 has 0VAC (brd_vac.jpg attached). At this point I thought the control board was bad so I replaced it. The issue remained. Still no power. Next, I checked the wire between the easytouch control panel (J19) and the heaters firemans switch. I used a multimeter with audible continuity and verified that each screw post on J19 had continuity to the firemans switch post and they were not shorted together (fsw.jpg attached). What do I check next? I’m out of ideas.

Thanks,
-Mike

I forgot to mention the fuse by the firemans switch is not blown.
Thanks,
Mike

proavia · Mar 1, 2025

Do you have two skimmers?
Interesting you have two pipes marked as Main Drain. Usually, even though you may have two drain covers on the pool floor, they are plumbed together and only one pipe for main drain is at the equipmemt pad.

Usually the valves should be set to pull at least 70% (or more) from the skimmers to maximize skimming the pool surfafe and capturing debris before it settles to the pool floor. For a pool without an IFCS, probably 80%-90% skimmer would work best.

JamesW · Mar 1, 2025

The purple dots are the 24 VDC coil.

When the power input is 240 volts, the ignitor is powered by S1/240 and S2/FS instead of S1/120 and S2/FS.

This is changed by the voltage selector plug (Red or Black).

The Voltage Selector Plug also changes the Blower Windings from Series (For 240 Volts) to Parallel (For 120 Volts).

The Voltage Selector Plug also changes the System Transformer Windings from Series (For 240 Volts) to Parallel (For 120 Volts).

Manufacturer: SANYOU

Manufacturer part number: SMI-S-224L

Type of relay: electromagnetic

Contacts configuration: DPDT

Rated coil voltage: 24V DC

Contact current max: 8A

Hulaomr said:
When the heater is operating (connected to) in 240Vac, the IC MT1 (in purple box) is switching the input L1 to get 120Vrms in the ignitor. The picture diagram shows the L1 circuit route: a) red (110V direct) and b) purple (240V switching by MT1).