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Welcome to the forum.
I typically purchase supplies through Amazon, Walmart, Ace Hardware, and TFTestkits.net.

Not sure you're asking or stating but when you check the quality of the sand it'll be clumpy and gooey.
You can still have water flow but with channeling from gummed up sand the filter wont hold back dirt and filter the water.

Thanks again ,
I wondered how can I know I do need a deep clean / sand replacement without opening the filter ( e.g. water flow, water clearly)
It’s a new pool

Ha ha. probably from 1951.

Ok so the pool isn't new. Plaster has a big MA appetite as it cures the first year.

Another frequent headache is folks chasing ideal levels in the low 7s that ask for a quick bounce back.

Try shifting to 7.8 instead of 7.6 and see if that helps any. Dose at 8+, mix for 15 mins and retest to make sure you hit the target. Repeat as necessary. Occasionally you might goof to 7.6 and thats totally fine when it happens.

Jimrahbe said:

B,

Pentair 520555 IntelliChlor IC40 Salt Chlorine Generator Cell

Pentair 520555 IntelliChlor IC40 Salt Chlorine Generator Cell. Lowest Prices Guaranteed. Authorized Service Center - All Pentair Parts Available.

marinapoolspaandpatio.com

Pentair IntelliChlor Chlorine Generator IC40 Cell (to 40,000 gallons)

Thanks,

Jim R.

Click to expand...

Went ahead and purchased a IC40 cell from marina pool spa and patio. Thanks!

wireform said:

Don't have your answer but hopefully you have enough gas for the pool heater because that pipe looks awfully small.

Click to expand...

oops the link didn't work at first. Nice work.

Cool then I'm not gonna worry about that anode then, it'll save some cash anyway. I was thinking then I can do this:
Put in a Jandy 3 way valve for bypass where the dead temp sensor is, relocate that somewhere else (better before or after the heater or does it matter?), outlet facing up and an elbow with pipe towards the outlet line
Put a check valve for the bypass between the output and the current elbow, turn the existing elbow up instead of down, then tee to accept the line from the bypass. Might not have enough room the clear the filter putting the tee before the elbow.
Go up over and down through the cell, then flow switch and back to the existing valve into the pool

The only potential problem I run into is that the check valve might move that elbow maybe an inch or so out so it's not in line with the existing pipe into the valve anymore. Not sure if I'll need to get creative to make that up or not. I might also be over thinking that too to be honest, heh.

Since I'm going to be adding the extra valves, I might go with the Pureline at Inyo then since I can get everything in one shot (discount salt pools doesn't seem to carry valves that I can find) and I already got my pump through them so it'll be a bit easier to have everything in one place too. You're right, the price isn't really that big of a deal long term either way and I'm sure the warranty difference probably doesn't mean much in real life either after 2 years.

For a laugh, I asked chatgpt to help diagram the changes to the plumbing and it gave me this. I might have to hang this somewhere near the equipment pad lol

Edit: forgot the pipe across for the bypass in the plan

UrielM said:

Thanks ,
I have one more question regarding the sand filter.
I run the filter for 1 Hr just after floc and recycle the water for two hours, so the dust didn’t sunk yet. In addition I backwashed and rinse for 2 minutes. To your opinion will my filter was gummed? How can I verify it ?
Thanks

Click to expand...

There's no way to see the sand except for you to look and see when you do the deep clean as linked.

Interestingly, all the auto cover pools that I can think of have some kind of stone except the one I wrote about. When he speaks of a manufactured product he probably means they get cut to be narrow and longer so there's less room for water intrusion.

Yes, they are nicheless.

And that probably also makes them non serviceable.

Follow the SLAM Process

My heater is around 10 years old so that short jumper wire is long gone. I'll do exactly as you suggest. Thank you both!

Newdude said:

I last added MA in June 2023.

How high does the PH get ?

How much are you lowering it ?

How old is the pool ?


Ooooh. Please excuse my terrible manners. Belated Welcome to TFP !!! I musta missed your intro thread, apologies again for that.

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I don’t know how high it will get. I always add acid when I see it’s above the recommended levels. I just add how much poolmath says to lower it to 7.6. Not sure how old the pool is exactly. House was built in 2010 and I moved in here last year

I started taking care of the pool myself about a month ago and all of the chemicals were out of whack from the pool service so I was adding everything to get the chemicals to the right levels

Yup, that can be the norm for some plaster pools.

Return jets should not break the surface at all. Point them straight or down.

Why did you add baking soda a month ago? Let your TA reach its natural equilibrium.

tmarcoux said:

Thanks everyone for the fast support!

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I last added MA in June 2023.

How high does the PH get ?

How much are you lowering it ?

How old is the pool ?


Ooooh. Please excuse my terrible manners. Belated Welcome to TFP !!! I musta missed your intro thread, apologies again for that.

h2ocd said:

Is there a way to remove or disable the fireman's switch from a MasterTemp HD400? All the manuals I can find online talk about the Smart Control which seems to be the same as the fireman's switch and they make it sound optional. I'm not sure whether the switch can be removed entirely, if I should use a jumper fuse to connect them together, or something else.

Why
The heater is connected to the same Intermatic timer as our SWG on the fireman's switch toggle on the timer. We've only been operating this pool for 3 years but I'm guessing the previous owners had a single speed pump and heater connected to the timer. Later they upgraded to a VSP and moved that to its own switch, added a SWG to the timer, and left the heater on the timer. Last month the off control on the timer sprung loose and the heater and SWG ran all day and racked up a nice natural gas bill in the hundreds of dollars, as well as a bunch of scaling I'm sure. I'd like to take the heater off the timer. We have always operated the heater manually anyway the handful of times we use it per year.

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If you don't have the yellow jumper wire shown in JamesW's picture, cut the wires shorter at the grey box, strip the ends, twist the ends together, tape the connection, and you're good. Or, just remove the wires at the fireman's switch and do the same thing, twist them together and tape the connection. Its better to do it in the heater as rodents like the taste of wiring insulation and can gnaw through that, usually, tiny wire.