If each and every stone was waiting on the PBs floor when he walked into his showroom tomorrow, i don't know nothing.

No sir, I don't.

ajw22 said:

Do you still have the original valve that clicked?

We have seen many problems with aftermarket PCBs not working correctly.

I think the 9V is the normal voltage drop from the relay coil resistance.

I would put back in the original gas valve and PCB.

What was the original problem?

Click to expand...

Original PCB has corrosion.

Original problem was the heater wouldn’t ever ignite, Fenwal would flash 3 times eventually. Replaced igniter, same thing. Measured gas pressure and noticed it never dropped, also noticed I never smell gas so assumed it was a gas valve issue.

TinFoilHat said:

Get your water clean and balanced and then invest in a Chlorine generator for it so the chlorine is automated.

Click to expand...

What is a chlorine generator?

Given that some of the bricks were already pretty severely dislodged, I peered down inside. It doesn't look like there is any "second wall" at all.. it's full of rocks and stones. It looks like what they did was build up the brick veneer, fill the void between the spa shell and veneer with rocks/stones, and then poured concrete on top of it. That's why it sounds hollow. THAT's what the mason saw and why he called the contractor.

That pretty much explains everything, and leaves me with no actual option at this point but to have it rebuilt.

I can ask to have them drill the concrete on top but that's exactly what it looks like to me.

Do you still have the original valve that clicked?

We have seen many problems with aftermarket PCBs not working correctly.

I think the 9V is the normal voltage drop from the relay coil resistance.

I would put back in the original gas valve and PCB.

What was the original problem?

The NEC requires GFCI CBs to be installed for safety when pumps are replaced. Your pump CBs should be changed to GFCI.



Page 24....

ajw22 said:

Do you hear the click of the gas valve opening?

You need to connect a manometer to the gas valve and check the gas pressures.

Did you replace the PCB with a genuine Pentair board?

Show me a picture of both sides of the PCB.

Click to expand...

No sound from the gas valve. The originaI valve did click. Replaced with a know good used valve, no sound but same voltage drop. Now have replaced with branded new valve, same thing. All of this was with old PCB. New PCB now but same voltage drop, no noise. I have 8” pressure but it never changes. I never smell gas.

No, aftermarket PCB board. Can take a picture shortly.

Do you hear the click of the gas valve opening?

You need to connect a manometer to the gas valve and check the gas pressures.

Did you replace the PCB with a genuine Pentair board?

Show me a picture of both sides of the PCB.

You are asking about bonding, not grounding.



You should be okay with bronze anchors in the concrete deck with the Saftron railing.

ajw22 said:

Welcome to TFP.

The gas valve voltage runs through a relay in the Fenwal. We have seen bad relays in the Fenwal. You need to check if you have 24V into the relay.

The blower (Inducer) starts when 24 VAC is sent to the IND (Inducer) terminal. Verify 24 VAC from IND to GND. This closes the F1 to F2 relay.

Once the blower pressure switch closes, 24 VAC is sent to the TH terminal. Verify 24 VAC from TH to GND. This closes the L1 to S1 and L2 to S2 relays, powering the ignitor with 120 volts.

The gas valve opens when 24 VAC is sent to the VAL terminal at about 20 seconds after the ignitor is powered.

See...

SPA heater, what would happen?

The board was just an example used earlier for example. Ignore the red arrow. See if the relay is getting 24 volts DC. If the relay is getting 24 volts DC and not closing, then the relay is bad. If the relay is not getting 24 volts DC, then the relay driver might be bad or the main circuit...

www.troublefreepool.com

Click to expand...

Thank you for the welcome and the quick reply.

Here is what I get:

TH to GND = 22.5v
IND to GND = 22.5v
VAL to GND = 9v with valve wired up and 22v without valve wired up

Thanks

Welcome to TFP.

Stop using the mineral cartridge. Read...



Get...

I asked the builder to revise it and I think the result is better. I'm OK with the heater bypass - I don't plan to use it unless servicing the heater.

Welcome to TFP.

Check the thermal regulator and the internal bypass.


A bad internal bypass usually causes AGS errors. Too much water bypasses the heat exchanger internally, and the water that comes out is too hot, tripping the AGS switch in the manifold.

• Remove the leads from the AGS sensor and connect them together. Temp only for the test.
• Then, check the continuity of the sensor. It should be closed.
• Start the heater. If the sensor opens, immediately turn off the heater.
• If the sensor opens, it might be a bad sensor, or the water is overheating.
• To test the sensor, put it in hot water to see where it opens.
• The board is bad if the sensor does not open and the heater shuts off with an AGS light.

Welcome to TFP.

The gas valve voltage runs through a relay in the Fenwal. We have seen bad relays in the Fenwal. You need to check if you have 24V into the relay.

The blower (Inducer) starts when 24 VAC is sent to the IND (Inducer) terminal. Verify 24 VAC from IND to GND. This closes the F1 to F2 relay.

Once the blower pressure switch closes, 24 VAC is sent to the TH terminal. Verify 24 VAC from TH to GND. This closes the L1 to S1 and L2 to S2 relays, powering the ignitor with 120 volts.

The gas valve opens when 24 VAC is sent to the VAL terminal at about 20 seconds after the ignitor is powered.

See...

Oops.

I think you need to core drill into the wall from the top or side to determine whether it is really hollow or all gunite.

I would not pull the brick face off until you get more conclusive proof of what the structure is.

I think that's what confused me about the whole design, the "second wall". I've never seen anything like that in other people's builds.

Either way, I can confirm that the "second wall" is indeed probably full of voids for some reason. You can knock on it even with your knuckles and it sounds hollow throughout.

I went back out a little while ago and really did the whole thing a good once over, and if you grab the veneer at the top and give it a solid push/pull, you can absolutely move it around. Maybe 3/10ths of an inch or so back and forth, so it seems like the brick isn't even really attached to the wall anymore, and the gap between the veneer and the wall lends credence to that.

If they had just explained that to me I think I would have been much more open to hearing them out. I think what happened is their poorly constructed second wall "full of junk" probably settled over time, separating the outside brick veneer as well as the pavers and encouraging the mortar to break down below the pavers leading to this whole problem.

Maybe rebuilding that whole thing really is the best way. I guess I'll still wait to hear some more opinions.

TinFoilHat said:

Commercial pools don't use SWGs because they don't make them large enough to avoid multiple cells needing to be used on one pool at the same time.

Click to expand...

Sure they do...

Answer the question about what tablets you use.

Looks like metals to me.

Most common practice of building spa walls that come in contact with the pool is having that wall a continuous thickness and not building a secondary wall outside of the first. This can be done and still achieved the needed outcome for the spillway.
Your concern should be the process of rebuilding the spa wall, ask for specific details.

Roz,

Set the Return valve so that the Spa jets pipe is shut off.. Pool pipe is open..

Set the Intake valve to Pool on, and open the Skimmer line and Main drain line..

If the Spa does not drain down, open the Return valve so that the spa pipe and the pool pipes are both open.. If the spa then drains down, then the problem is likely a bad check valve somewhere between the spa jets and the Return valve..

How many jets do you have in the spa??

Thanks,

Jim R.