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silverdou · Mar 25, 2025

Is there a strong need to adjust the flow from the skimmer vs the main drain? I read a thread which the person was adjusting the flow between the two suction valves. Does this activity happen on a daily basis? I have never adjusted either. Am I missing the boat on this? What are the repercussions of not making these changes?

JamesW · Mar 25, 2025

JamesW · Mar 25, 2025

JamesW · Mar 25, 2025

Tattooed Nurse · Mar 25, 2025

Bperry said:
I’m betting on there being a leak…

I do not see water anywhere and my salt has been 3,600 since we started the pool in September. If there was a leak wouldn't we be losing salt?

ajw22 · Mar 25, 2025

You get what you pay for.

Apera PH60 is about the least expensive reliable pH meter. Lower cost ones get into the junk range.

With a pH meter you also need to buy some calibrating fluids. There is an on-going cost to using it.

HEaton02 · Mar 25, 2025

Dambra said:
Reviving this again - choosing between aluminum walk-on lid or coping lid for my coverstar autocover.

Who has one or the other or can share their personal experience?

My thoughts:

Aluminum - ease of access and maintenance, lacks aesthetically
Coping - more aesthetically pleasing, lacks ease of access

Looking for hear others peronsal experiences, regrets?

We have an autocover with a coping lid and absolutely love it. There are maybe 5 or 6 large coping stones that make up the cover for the autocover that are set on top of large brackets. The stones are heavy, but can easily be picked up by 2 people for access.

dielseman · Mar 25, 2025

Hi, does anyone have a suggestion for a digital PH meter? Many have recommended the Apera PH60, however I was trying to spend less on a meter. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

JamesW · Mar 25, 2025

Gingermom said:
hitting the mode key in connection with the down arrow does not change the display. It remains the hO ( bO assuming the bottom light is out) and the service light is NOT on.

bo is normal display when heater is being controlled by a remote thermostat.

No service is required.

If heater is not being controlled by remote thermostat, change setting by using the MODE key to put the heater into STANDBY.

Press and hold the DOWN key and then press and hold the MODE key.

Hold down both keys for 3 seconds until the indication ‘‘bO’’ is removed from the display.

If the display will not change, then the keypad is probably bad.

HEaton02 · Mar 25, 2025

ajw22 · Mar 25, 2025

mangoose said:
That is interesting - although it looks like the warranty would require me having a certified installer do it (my hope was to install myself - i do plumbing and hvac and electrical, so while i havent done pool equipment, im familiar with all the materials and concepts).

It might come down to paying ~5-10K to an installer over the material cost for just the warranty.

Pentair's definition is broad...

*Professional Installation – Defined as product installation by a qualified professional who charges a fee for their services, and possesses a business license, and/or contractor's license. Common examples of a “qualified professional” include: Swimming Pool, Home Repair or Landscape Professional; Plumber or Electrician; General Contractor; Heating and Air Conditioning Specialist.

You can prep much of the work and they can inspect it and do the final connections. You just need to get an invoice from them for "Installation" to present to Pentair when you register the warranty.

You have friends who meet that definition?

JamesW · Mar 25, 2025

JamesW · Mar 25, 2025

Once you are in bO mode, put it in Pool or Spa Mode.

JamesW · Mar 25, 2025

ajw22 · Mar 25, 2025

JoyfulNoise said:
And there are days in China where the air is basically unbreathable. Think USA 1960’s smog only a million times worse.

So the cost for the SWG is in exchange for breathing cleaner air.

As long as "they" are willing to do the dirty work I am happy to pay the price.

mangoose · Mar 25, 2025

ajw22 said:
Instead of spending money to avoid that full blown automation system, use it to put in a full featured system.

You are not going to save yourself much by building a mutt of pool equipment from different manufacturers.

You need an electrical subpanel that comes with the IntelliCenter. Forget the IO Board and get a MasterTemp heater and IntelliChlor Plus SWG.

You will have better equipment, that is easier to operate, and maintain.

You are buying enough Pentair equipment that you should ensure you qualify for their 3 year warranty bundle.

Pentair Bundled Warranty

Can anyone confirm the pentair warranty when you buy from 3 different product areas? I've gotten quotes from a few dealers and they all say it goes to 3 years if buy from 3 different areas.....but the pentair website is a little more precise and says the following: "Select Bundled Products...

www.troublefreepool.com

That is interesting - although it looks like the warranty would require me having a certified installer do it (my hope was to install myself - i do plumbing and hvac and electrical, so while i havent done pool equipment, im familiar with all the materials and concepts).

It might come down to paying ~5-10K to an installer over the material cost for just the warranty.

ajw22 · Mar 25, 2025

silverdou said:
What do you guys look for in the "Variable" aspect of the new pumps?
I know about running at lower rpms for longer times to save money
What other conditions would invoke pump speed changes or run time changes?.. These new unknown options are very intriguing!

Depends what equipment you have that are flow sensitive.

SWGs and heaters have a minimum flow requirement.

Skimmers need the correct flow to operate properly.

When you are not using flow dependent equipment you can run a VS pump at a very low speed for basic circulation. Then increase speed as needed for a device. This is what automation does well.

PoolStored · Mar 25, 2025

FLCoach said:
New control center (with SW card)

What do you mean by this? If you mean automation, then I'd at least decide the automation first, even if you don't buy it first. You want to make sure all your equipment (as a general rule) should be the same brand...not a hard and fast rule, but it makes interoperability easier...

JoyfulNoise · Mar 25, 2025

ajw22 said:
Not just making the plates but refining the rare earths...

WSJ:How China Beat Out the U.S. to Become the Top Player in Rare-Earths Refining

In truth, the U.S. already has abundant supplies of rare earths, but it relies on China to refine them. That is because the U.S. has lost much of its capacity to process minerals, while China has become the world’s dominant refiner of rare earths, cobalt, copper and many other metals.

...

In the case of rare earths, the U.S. mines around 12% of the world’s supply, putting it only behind China, according to the United States Geological Survey. Most of the bounty comes from a massive deposit in the Mountain Pass mine in California.

But the U.S. exports about two-thirds of its rare earths to China. It has little choice: China is responsible for around 85% of the world’s rare earth refining. Chinese companies then turn the ore into the final product—rare-earth magnets—and export the magnets back to the U.S.

Similarly, the U.S. sends a chunk of its substantial supplies of copper to China for processing. Even America’s lone nickel mine sends its nickel concentrate abroad to Canada for smelting.

Until the 1990s, the U.S. was a major refiner of minerals and metals. But then China emerged as the dominant player, powered by its cheap labor force and looser environmental regulations of a sector that can be highly polluting. The voracious need of Chinese manufacturers for raw materials during the country’s years of explosive growth was also a boon for Chinese refiners.

Today, the sheer scale of China’s refining industry makes it difficult for others to compete. According to industry estimates, the cost of building a refinery plant in China is a third of the cost in the U.S.

And there are days in China where the air is basically unbreathable. Think USA 1960’s smog only a million times worse.

dw886 · Mar 25, 2025

Very interested in your feedback. Waffling between these and the Aiper Scuba S1 Pro or Aiper Scuba X1. Still cold where I live, so I have a little time to make a decision. Excited to see your impressions.

TinFoilHat · Mar 25, 2025

Why worry about your gravel? Mount the fence to the decking. Whatever holes you put in it won't matter since you sound like you will replace it or tear it down at some point.

FLCoach · Mar 25, 2025

PoolStored said:
All Inyo pricing...

New Whisperflo 2.6 is $1800.

Pentair Whisperflo VST 2.60 THP Inground Pool Pump, Variable Speed 115/208-230V - EC-011533 - INYOPools.com

Pentair Whisperflo VST 2.60 THP Inground Pool, Variable Speed 115/208-230V

www.inyopools.com

2.6 Impeller: $123.

Pentair WhisperFlo Impeller, 2 HP Full, 2 1/2 HP Up Rated - 073130 - INYOPools.com

073130 - IMPELLER, 2 HP FULL 2 1/2 HP UP (073130)

www.inyopools.com

Nidec VSP 2.7: $700.

US/Nidec Neptune Variable Speed Motor 2.70 THP Square Flange 230V 48Y - INYOPools.com

www.inyopools.com

$823...Assuming the wet end is good...

Assume you need a new wet end, seal plate and go kit...

Wet End with Seal Plate (not needed, but hey): $320

Pentair Whisperflo and Intelliflo Volute and Seal Plate Replacement Kit - 357149 - INYOPools.com

357149 - VOLUTE REPLACEMENT KIT (357149)

www.inyopools.com

Go kit 3 (salt) $40

Pentair WhisperFlo Pool Pump Saltwater Seal Kit Series | By Pureline | GOKIT32SALT - INYOPools.com

Tune Up Kit Pentair/Purex Whisperflo

www.inyopools.com

$1183...

What am I missing?

missing the running rate for selling plasma

I appreciate all the feedback from everyone on the thread - Thank you, it has been very helpful!

In terms of order of operations- replacing/upgrading in phases, is there a recommended approach?
VS pump, New control center (with SW card) and last SWG? If the VS pump lowers the electric bill $50-80 a month, it "pays for itself" in about a year and should be first on the to do list?

silverdou · Mar 25, 2025

What do you guys look for in the "Variable" aspect of the new pumps?
I know about running at lower rpms for longer times to save money
What other conditions would invoke pump speed changes or run time changes?.. These new unknown options are very intriguing!

ajw22 · Mar 25, 2025

silverdou said:
Am I looking for mechanical trouble with this 2hp pump

Nope.

silverdou said:
or just financial?

Just a larger electrical bill.

silverdou said:
How much "VARIABLE" speed control do I get with new Variable speed pumps

Depends on the pump and the sophistication of the control panel.

silverdou said:
Can I automate speed and run time based on water chemistry changes, time of day etc...?

Speed and runtime based on time of day, not chemistry.

silverdou · Mar 25, 2025

How much "VARIABLE" speed control do I get with new Variable speed pumps
Can I automate speed and run time based on water chemistry changes, time of day etc...?

ajw22 · Mar 25, 2025

Welcome to TFP.

I have not seen it mentioned that indoor pools need very little stabilizer since they get no UV from the sun.

Minimum CYA/stabilizer level around 20 is fine for an indoor pool to eliminate the harshness of chlorine.

silverdou · Mar 25, 2025

Am I looking for mechanical trouble with this 2hp pump or just financial?
I will get make and model info later today
Thanks for your help!!!

ajw22 · Mar 25, 2025

rookie177 said:
This probably sounds like exaggeration, but 90%+ of HVAC swap outs or new installs use these pre-made pads (including multi-million dollar homes).

HVAC does not have multiple devices connected by rigid PVC.

Any shifting of the pad between the devices puts stress on the pipes and can leak to leaks and cracks.

.ben · Mar 25, 2025

KLH2399 said:
March 13…i took a sample to the pool store. I don’t remember exactly what they had me add but I do know it was calcium hardness, alkalinity, increaser, PH down, shock, and stabilizer.

This is infuriating. Alkalinity increaser also increases pH. pH down also lowers Alkalinity. They are asking you to add chemicals that do the opposite of each other! and they asked you multiple times!

Unfortunately, your story is not unique. Stay far away from pool stores. Throw away your test strips. Listen to the advice from PoolStored above. Forget everything you learned from the pool stores and Facebook. While waiting for your test kit feel free to start reading the Pool Care Basics pages.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Gingermom · Mar 25, 2025

JamesW said:
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Okay this I could do, the question is how do I determine if this is needed versus something else.

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