JamesW said:

I think that the red circled ball valve is closed.

You can try opening it to see what happens.

Maybe it is closed for a reason?

Maybe the lines leak?

Note: The Hayward Dial-A-Flo Valves are gate valves or diverter valves, not ball valves.

View attachment 644537

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This was the solution. I never realized that could be opened and closed. The people that closed the pool must have closed it. Thank you JamesW!!

Every year I learn something new. Now it's time to great rid of the green water.

James L. said:

The green and yellow wires of the RS-485 cable coming from the vst pump connect to the salt surge board, and not the J20 COMM port?

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Yup, that is what I said.

The surge board connects to J20 so the comm will get there.

The green and yellow wires of the RS-485 cable coming from the vst pump connect to the salt surge board, and not the J20 COMM port?

PoorPoolOwner said:

1. Yes, I have a vinyl pool. (20x40 Lazy L) no issues at all.
3. It comes with a 60’ cord
4. I highly recommend the fine filter, it is worth the $50.
5. You can set up in the app a daily schedule to run. I have ours to come on daily at 8am. You’ll get a notification 2.5ish hours later when it’s done.

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Thanks for the response Jim.....I will order it online at Marina. Not sure there is any reason for me to call as this thread pretty much answers all my questions.

Two wires can be placed under each COMM port screw without problems.

You have two open COMM ports on the surge card on the back wall although one is missing the connector. They are circled below in red and yellow.

Use JP4, the red circle, to connect your pump to.

rhulse1 said:

Hello, l believe because of the angle of the picture it looks like it connected to both LV1 and LV2 however it’s only connected to the LV/1 section. Do you still want we to give it a try?

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Yes. Those two wires run to your heater.

Be the relay and connect them together and see if the heater runs.

Connect the pump’s power directly to a dedicated GFCI breaker in the EasyTouch load center or an external breaker panel. You won't use a relay.
Use a two-wire RS-485 communication cable to connect the pump to the EasyTouch COM port to control the pump.

I'm not sure if it standard to connect multiple controls to the com port.

@ajw22 or @Jimrahbe would know.

joel98z said:

Here is a little better picture with wires from transformer disconnected. So this picture shows transformer disconnected from White and black wire coming from control boxView attachment 644850View attachment 644851

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The diagram show the low voltages side has two black wires.

You are testing between a white wire and black wire.

Something is confused.

There is a divider between the lower half of the box.

One side should have the colored high voltage wires.

The other side should have the two black low voltage wires.

Identify the wires correctly.

ajw22 said:

He already confirmed he has 120V at the transformer.



That is not the way the PX300 works according to this diagram….

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Yup, got it wrong. There should be 12, 13, or 14 volts at blacks depending in which hi-voltage line was selected.

1poolman1 said:

Find the wires in the Jandy that are attached to the relay that controls lighting. Then with the lights turned "on" at the Jandy, test those same color wires at the transformer. It should be 120V. if not, find out if there is 120V going into that relay, should be at terminal 1 or 3 and to ground or neutral bar. If not, is there voltage coming at the breaker? Test from the terminal to neutral or ground. Is the breaker tripped? Is it a GFCI breaker? Is there a GFCI in the light circuit that is tripped? If there is one on the side of the Jandy cabinet, the lights may have been wired through it and it tripped.

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He already confirmed he has 120V at the transformer.

1poolman1 said:

If you have that 120V, you can test each of the blue, grey, yellow wires individually by having one probe on the wire and one on the ground bar, a bare piece of metal in the cabinet.
Blue should read 14, Yellow 13, Grey 12. You won't get those exact numbers in most cases, but it should be close. If you don't see that voltage the transformer is bad.

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That is not the way the PX300 works according to this diagram….

Hello, l believe because of the angle of the picture it looks like it connected to both LV1 and LV2 however it’s only connected to the LV/1 section. Do you still want we to give it a try?

joel98z said:

Here is a little better picture with wires from transformer disconnected. So this picture shows transformer disconnected from White and black wire coming from control box

Click to expand...

Find the wires in the Jandy that are attached to the relay that controls lighting. Then with the lights turned "on" at the Jandy, test those same color wires at the transformer. It should be 120V. if not, find out if there is 120V going into that relay, should be at terminal 1 or 3 and to ground or neutral bar. If not, is there voltage coming at the breaker? Test from the terminal to neutral or ground. Is the breaker tripped? Is it a GFCI breaker? Is there a GFCI in the light circuit that is tripped? If there is one on the side of the Jandy cabinet, the lights may have been wired through it and it tripped.
If you have that 120V, you can test each of the blue, grey, yellow wires individually by having one probe on the wire and one on the ground bar, a bare piece of metal in the cabinet.
Blue should read 14, Yellow 13, Grey 12. You won't get those exact numbers in most cases, but it should be close. If you don't see that voltage the transformer is bad.

Show me a picture of the entire electrical box showing the Fenwal module.

You either have a main PCB problem or a Fenwal problem as the first thing after powering up is the PCB tells the Fenwal to start the blower.

Todays excitement…



A bulkkhead fitting started leaking. The pool was run for barely 4 months last season and put to bed. I opened it Monday. Deadline for swimmers in the water is the 15th, plus I’m stacked with 2 a day openings this week and service on about 10 accounts already opened. It’s gonna be a nailbiter to get this pool right before opening. I think little sleep is in my future….

Just saw on another post that single speed pump is wired to a relay, but VST is not. VST needs constant power, so I don't know where the red and black 240v power wires from the pump should be connected to. So, where?

TinFoilHat said:

I think I would forward pics of it all including the inspection sticker and ask the code folks why they think this was passed. I'd share the contractor name with them too.

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My assumption is that when inspection took place, it was wired for 120v. It would have passed in that configuration. Then after final when the contractor realized the pump wasn’t working, this mess happened to get the pump to work. As for the lack of GFCI breakers, I can’t explain that one. Inspector was asleep? At this point “powder is being kept dry” for the owner as I’m documenting and correcting. It’s their decision to act legally or otherwise against any and all responsible parties if you catch my drift .

wef924 said:

Hi,
I am thinking about replace the pool light bulb with LED since it's not working. Can anyone please help me identify which brand or model it is? And is the Amazon pool light work as expected?
Ex:https://a.co/d/dfrs6M5
This is extra bright ~ 7000 lumens with 65W and don't know if this is recommended.

View attachment 644806

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Pentair Amerilite, most common light in pools.
Those bulbs are incredibly bright and the light they emit is very white.
Be sure that you have a GFCI in the light circuit and that it isn't tripped. If it is tripped, reset it. If it continues to trip you probably need a complete new light.

45 minutes is plenty for low pressure... up to 3" pipes.


@ajw22 who knows easytouch?

saxon11 said:

Now says rollout SW open

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That means that either flame got out of the combustion chamber into the front of the heater. Its usually not actually a switch, but a fuse that pops and needs to be replaced if that happens.
Open the door, look on the lower left of the cabinet. Attached to the wall is one of these:

You can test it with a meter. Remove the wires and check for continuity across the terminals. If you have continuity, make sure the wires to the part were not damaged, or disconnected at the board when the heater was reassembled when a repair was made. If all is good, it sounds like your board is going bad.

On a rare occasion, only once, I have seen an actual switch in place of that thermal fuse. It will look something like this and just needs the button pushed in to reset:

You need to find out why flame is getting out of the chamber. If the heater wasn't running when this code popped up, check the wiring. If good it sounds like the board is going bad. Also, check the back of the control board. Lizards and large insects can get killed by the voltage at the board, or just get stuck and short out some of the wiring. Removing them sometimes clears the problem.

If it was sealed stuff then I’d be ok with leaving it but not worth any weird hassle afterwards if it was open bottles. Who knows what someone could/would say.