Greetings TFP SWG Gurus!

I'm looking for advice on what to do about my SWG system. I have a Circupool RJ-45 Plus unit running on my 9640-gallon pool/spa. I bought it 4x oversized based on advice I got from these forums to purposely not over-work/stress the SWG. That was great advice!

Here are my pool chemistry numbers today before I added corrective measures and opened the pool for summer:
FCL: 5.30
TCL: 5.30
pH: 8.1
ALK: 210
CH: 385
CYA: 75
SALT: 3640ppm (measured by AquaCheck strip & a calibrated Orapxi digital tester) (Circupool recommends 3000-4000ppm salt levels)
CSI: +0.78
TEMP: 76F
WATER FLOW: ~50GPM

After plugging the above numbers into TFP's pool calculator, I added 95oz of 31.45% muriactic acid to kick the pH down to 6.9 and the CSI to -0.39. Because I have a waterfall feature, the pH will always drift upwards towards pH 8.0 or so after a few days and I've done this chemistry see-saw ritual for years without issue.

After making sure the chemistry was corrected, I removed the bypass tube, installed the SWG cell, and powered it up to it's normal 35% generation. I never run the cell if the water temps are <70F, and it is disconnected after the swim season in fall. The 2-year old cell was also cleaned before installation with a ~6% muriatic acid solution for 10 minutes as it was very lightly scale contaminated from last year.

My problem is: the cell performed well at first, but shuts off with a LO SALT warning light after about 20-30 minutes. I recycled the SWG power off, then back on again - it performs well for about 20-30 minutes before throwing another LO SALT warning. After the second time it did this, I watched the digital display on the controller carefully. After a few minutes of turning the cell on, the SWG display will stabilize at ~3200ppm salt; 22.8V; 4.71A. But, as the minutes go by, the salt level will slowly creep down after 20-30 minutes, until it goes below 2900ppm, at which time the LO SALT will start flickering, then it will completely shut down as the salt level goes down <2850ppm.

I've read through some of the older forum posts and some have suggested this may be a flow switch problem, but with Circupool, the flow switch is sold as a "Generic Flow Switch" with no apparent salt measurement ability (maybe I'm wrong about that function?). This raises another question in my mind - how are salt levels measured with the Circupool system? It must be in the SWG cell itself?

I have a bunch of questions that I have no answers to: Should I kick the salt level of the pool up to the upper range - like 3800-3900ppm? Is this 2-year old cell that I have taken very good care of just dying? Or what am I missing here? Any ideas or suggestions on what I should do?

Thanks in Advance for any ideas!

My heater is wired to a jandylink rs6 panel, and normally when I press the heater button, it turns on like it always has for years....until it didn't......

Here's where I am at...

1. Replaced the relay, no luck
2. The heater button on the panel does not illuminate when I press it, the panel is in service mode btw....
3. I moved the hot wire of the heater to another breaker that was not in use and when I flip it on, still no power on the heater control panel membrane, i verified 110v power is present
4. There are 2 low voltage wires going to the jandy panel, i'm guessing this is for temperature readings?
5. i do have a replacement membrane panel as mine is all cracked, I'm going to proceed with replacing that.

Aside from all of this, can anyone think of any ideas why this heater won't power on?