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ajw22 · Saturday at 8:55 PM

I don't have any direct experience but J&J has a good reputation, and Hayward acquired them.

Lighting Basics - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Enzodast · Saturday at 8:53 PM

ol_whistle_britches said:
Interesting. I didn’t pay anywhere near that much.

Agreed I think I was under 2k when combining with a pump. Im looking forward to the automation that it'll include with the expanded platform..I don't have pool automation today. Im desperate for being able to monitor the pump if possible. What's happening now with the heater is if flow isn't high enough heater turns off. So for example I just took apart and cleaned my de filter. Added fresh de. Pool is spotless and solar cover is on it. Left the house for dinner with pump set to 1800 rpms...heater ran for an hour. At dinner I saw it stopped flowing.....so had to go home and now increase to 2000 rpms and heaters on again...

Wish I could control all of this remotely

ajw22 · Saturday at 8:53 PM

Welcome to TFP.

Sorry, no one appears to have advice for your situation.

ajw22 · Saturday at 8:53 PM

Sorry, no one appears to have advice for your situation.

ajw22 · Saturday at 8:52 PM

Welcome to TFP.

Sorry, no one appears to have advice for your situation.

vaindioux · Saturday at 8:51 PM

PoolStored said:
That is the lid off the Sta-Rite OptiFlo.

Use a dental tool or an awl, it may or may not come out in one piece. It is severely degraded Try not to scratch the lid. By the looks of it, it needs to be replaced.
View attachment 644753

New o-ring:

https://www.amazon.com/Pentair-357255-Ring-Replacement-Inground/dp/B004YLHRQG
New Lid:

https://www.amazon.com/Pentair-357227-Replacement-Sta-Rite-Aboveground/dp/B008H21RZA

Great, I appreciate the help

joel98z · Saturday at 8:39 PM

By control box I am referring to the Jandy RS box that controls everything.. I will get those pics for ya. Thanks again for taking time to help me out.

ajw22 · Saturday at 8:39 PM

Dan-H said:
lowes has everything in stock so I can collect it tonight.

Make sure everything is Schedule 40 PVC fittings and not DWV.

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

ajw22 · Saturday at 8:34 PM

MyWifesPool said:
As for the chlorine, should I wait fir the SWG to do it's job?

Nope. Your IC20 is too small for your 17K pool to begin with/

By the time it raises your Fc, you can have an algae problem.

MyWifesPool said:
Or should I add 2 bags of sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione to the water?

The best way is to add 1 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine, which will raise your FC by 6 ppm.

30 oz of Dichlor will raise your FC by 7 ppm and another 7 ppm of CYA in case you already have algae and need to follow the SLAM Process.
.

Dan-H · Saturday at 8:34 PM

I'm going to try this tomorrow.

Cut's here:

below is a bad copy-paste in ms paint to try and explain it.

starting on the left:
existing pipe - 45 - nip - 45 - nip - Tee - approx 8 inch nip - coupler - existing pipe

then ( down from the Tee )
Tee - approx 4 inch nipple - coupler - existing pipe

lowes has everything in stock so I can collect it tonight.

wish me luck

PoolStored · Saturday at 8:33 PM

We don't trust the ColorQ or any strips, pool store or photometers. They have consistently been wrong. As a result, if we make recommendations on test results we know are not accurate, we can do harm. So we don't make recommendations based on these.

I had the ColorQ and after 2 weeks of comparison with our recommended kits, I sold it on ebay. It was not accurate, nor repeatable.

Here are the kits we recommend-->Test Kits Compared

Setting that aside, you do NOT want to clean the cells with acid. It removes the ruthenium on the plates that make chlorine and shortens the life of the cell.
When generating, your amps should be closer to 7.8. 4.71A is low. Either the plates have been damaged because of acid cleanings over the two years you have owned it, or cell is just dead, or your salt is low.

At a minimum, get the K-1766 to determine your true salt level and rule that out.

How to clean a cell:

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

cpfox · Saturday at 8:28 PM

I'm testing the water with a LaMotte ColorQ Pro. The reagents are always up to date and another piece of equipment I take exceptional care of.

MyWifesPool · Saturday at 8:27 PM

ajw22 said:
Welcome to TFP.

This has nothing to do with LSI but you need chlorine in your pool ASAP.

Your CYA is 40. I don't know how you measured 36, but we round up, so if the dot disappeared between 40 and 30, you call it 40.

Get your FC up to 507 and you may want to do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to check if algae got into your pool while your FC was low.

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

View attachment 644944

As to LSI, we use CSI with PoolMath

CSI and LSI - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Download PoolMath, turn on CSI Tracking during setup, and enter your values to calculate your CSI.

Calcium Saturation Index (CSI)

How is CSI calculated? Very simple – use our PoolMath tool. To ensure long plaster life and save money, click here to learn more.

www.troublefreepool.com

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks. To be honest, I don't know why I wrote 36 ppm in my notes. As for the chlorine, should I wait fir the SWG to do it's job? Or should I add 2 bags of sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione to the water?

ajw22 · Saturday at 8:26 PM

Don;t know about installers in your area, but in this link is a DIY guide to tiling a fiberglass pool - Waterline Tile Installation - Further Reading

New pool proj.Flagstoning around (and on) my fiberglass pool

Hello all. It is pool project time for me again. I installed a fiberglass pool a few years ago and built a raised cement deck I around half of it and a wood deck around the other half. keithw-s-pool-pics-t166.html?hilit=keithw It has served me well over the past few years but I have been...

www.troublefreepool.com

namato02 · Saturday at 8:24 PM

We are in Massachusetts and are interested in having mosaic waterline tile installed on our (already installed) fiberglass pool. We are having trouble finding anyone who will take on the project since there are WAY more gunite installers in our area than fiberglass. If anyone has any leads in the New England Area, we would love a connection!

Thank you!

Nicole

Dan-H · Saturday at 8:23 PM

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta · Saturday at 8:23 PM

doofus57 said:
What is CSI???

Calcium Saturation Index (CSI)

How is CSI calculated? Very simple – use our PoolMath tool. To ensure long plaster life and save money, click here to learn more.

www.troublefreepool.com

Dan-H · Saturday at 8:22 PM

desoto · Saturday at 8:21 PM

This Hayward troubleshooting guide may help? This is the link to the pdf. It's for the AquaLogic & ProLogic

https://hayward.com/media/wysiwyg/pdf/automation/PL447c-ProLogic_TSG.pdf

ajw22 · Saturday at 8:18 PM

Welcome to TFP.

Lighting Basics - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

The J&J ColorSplash 3G Replacement 120V Color-Changing LED Pool Light bulb is an Edison base replacement for incandescent bulbs. The ColorSplash has seven colors, multi-color blends, and five light shows, including Parisian Blue, Brazilian Red, Tahitian Blue, Miami Pink, Tuscan Orange, Arctic White, and New Zealand Green colors. Each light has a lifespan of up to 50,000 hours.

dosmom · Saturday at 8:17 PM

C0d3Sp4c3 said:
I am sorry, but I am just a pool owner and a DIY'er. Armed with some background in electronics, I conducted my own research to better understand how my Aquarite swcg works and under no obligations, I strive to help others.

There's a wealth of knowledge in the Wiki section in this forum, in case you want to expand your knowledge. Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
Read the Schematic Diagram and visualize the direction of the flow of current. If you wish to explore the function of each component in the circuit, the internet is your best friend.
View attachment 644585
On a side note, U13 is NOT a Voltage Regulator but a Supervisory circuit, Category.

From Google search: MAX809JTRG is a supervisory circuit that provides accurate VCC monitoring and reset timing during power-up, power-down, and brownout/sag conditions. It rejects negative-going transients (glitches) on the power supply line.

On the Aquarite PCB, the U13 chip instructs the downstream U14 chip to go either Lo or Hi. Think of it as a light switch and what can go wrong if the switch is failing?

Hi, based on what is happening is it your guess that the board is bad? As you know I am dealing with the same issue

TinFoilHat · Saturday at 8:16 PM

Calcium Saturation Index. It's one of the parameters you can use in Pool Math. If the CSI is in it's proper range you are unlikely to have calcium precipitate onto the cell's plates.

ajw22 · Saturday at 8:16 PM

Welcome to TFP.

This has nothing to do with LSI but you need chlorine in your pool ASAP.

Your CYA is 40. I don't know how you measured 36, but we round up, so if the dot disappeared between 40 and 30, you call it 40.

Get your FC up to 5-7 and you may want to do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to check if algae got into your pool while your FC was low.

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

As to LSI, we use CSI with PoolMath

CSI and LSI - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Download PoolMath, turn on CSI Tracking during setup, and enter your values to calculate your CSI.

Calcium Saturation Index (CSI)

How is CSI calculated? Very simple – use our PoolMath tool. To ensure long plaster life and save money, click here to learn more.

www.troublefreepool.com

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta · Saturday at 8:15 PM

I wouldn't put too much faith in the salt reading on the SWG as other and other factors can affect its accuracy. The test strips are not reliable. TFP recommends the Taylor K-1766 salt test kit. Before taking any action, I would get the test kit and get an accurate reading.

How are you testing your water?

TinFoilHat · Saturday at 8:14 PM

The life of a good service tech, in the spring. Kind of like tax accountants in April.

JamesW · Saturday at 8:14 PM

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

Become a TFP Supporter

Help Support TFP Trouble Free Pool is run by a dedicated group of volunteers that … Read more…

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doofus57 · Saturday at 8:14 PM

pjt said:
If you maintain a slightly negative CSI (zero to -0.3), buildup on the cell should be minimal to none. Ideally, you never have to clean the cell.

What is CSI???

JamesW · Saturday at 8:13 PM

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

Become a TFP Supporter

Help Support TFP Trouble Free Pool is run by a dedicated group of volunteers that … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

kawisser · Saturday at 8:11 PM

Bperry said:
Also switch to the 10 mL water sample for the chlorine test. Then each drop you add to make it go clear will be 1/2 FC. It’s easier to do math. on reagent, especially if you SLAM. There’s no need for the finer accuracy of the 25 mL sample

Thanks I've been doing that today.

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