ajw22 said:

He already confirmed he has 120V at the transformer.



That is not the way the PX300 works according to this diagram….

Click to expand...

Yup, got it wrong. There should be 12, 13, or 14 volts at blacks depending in which hi-voltage line was selected.

1poolman1 said:

Find the wires in the Jandy that are attached to the relay that controls lighting. Then with the lights turned "on" at the Jandy, test those same color wires at the transformer. It should be 120V. if not, find out if there is 120V going into that relay, should be at terminal 1 or 3 and to ground or neutral bar. If not, is there voltage coming at the breaker? Test from the terminal to neutral or ground. Is the breaker tripped? Is it a GFCI breaker? Is there a GFCI in the light circuit that is tripped? If there is one on the side of the Jandy cabinet, the lights may have been wired through it and it tripped.

Click to expand...

He already confirmed he has 120V at the transformer.

1poolman1 said:

If you have that 120V, you can test each of the blue, grey, yellow wires individually by having one probe on the wire and one on the ground bar, a bare piece of metal in the cabinet.
Blue should read 14, Yellow 13, Grey 12. You won't get those exact numbers in most cases, but it should be close. If you don't see that voltage the transformer is bad.

Click to expand...

That is not the way the PX300 works according to this diagram….

Hello, l believe because of the angle of the picture it looks like it connected to both LV1 and LV2 however it’s only connected to the LV/1 section. Do you still want we to give it a try?

joel98z said:

Here is a little better picture with wires from transformer disconnected. So this picture shows transformer disconnected from White and black wire coming from control box

Click to expand...

Find the wires in the Jandy that are attached to the relay that controls lighting. Then with the lights turned "on" at the Jandy, test those same color wires at the transformer. It should be 120V. if not, find out if there is 120V going into that relay, should be at terminal 1 or 3 and to ground or neutral bar. If not, is there voltage coming at the breaker? Test from the terminal to neutral or ground. Is the breaker tripped? Is it a GFCI breaker? Is there a GFCI in the light circuit that is tripped? If there is one on the side of the Jandy cabinet, the lights may have been wired through it and it tripped.
If you have that 120V, you can test each of the blue, grey, yellow wires individually by having one probe on the wire and one on the ground bar, a bare piece of metal in the cabinet.
Blue should read 14, Yellow 13, Grey 12. You won't get those exact numbers in most cases, but it should be close. If you don't see that voltage the transformer is bad.

Show me a picture of the entire electrical box showing the Fenwal module.

You either have a main PCB problem or a Fenwal problem as the first thing after powering up is the PCB tells the Fenwal to start the blower.

Todays excitement…



A bulkkhead fitting started leaking. The pool was run for barely 4 months last season and put to bed. I opened it Monday. Deadline for swimmers in the water is the 15th, plus I’m stacked with 2 a day openings this week and service on about 10 accounts already opened. It’s gonna be a nailbiter to get this pool right before opening. I think little sleep is in my future….

Just saw on another post that single speed pump is wired to a relay, but VST is not. VST needs constant power, so I don't know where the red and black 240v power wires from the pump should be connected to. So, where?

TinFoilHat said:

I think I would forward pics of it all including the inspection sticker and ask the code folks why they think this was passed. I'd share the contractor name with them too.

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My assumption is that when inspection took place, it was wired for 120v. It would have passed in that configuration. Then after final when the contractor realized the pump wasn’t working, this mess happened to get the pump to work. As for the lack of GFCI breakers, I can’t explain that one. Inspector was asleep? At this point “powder is being kept dry” for the owner as I’m documenting and correcting. It’s their decision to act legally or otherwise against any and all responsible parties if you catch my drift .

wef924 said:

Hi,
I am thinking about replace the pool light bulb with LED since it's not working. Can anyone please help me identify which brand or model it is? And is the Amazon pool light work as expected?
Ex:https://a.co/d/dfrs6M5
This is extra bright ~ 7000 lumens with 65W and don't know if this is recommended.

View attachment 644806

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Pentair Amerilite, most common light in pools.
Those bulbs are incredibly bright and the light they emit is very white.
Be sure that you have a GFCI in the light circuit and that it isn't tripped. If it is tripped, reset it. If it continues to trip you probably need a complete new light.

45 minutes is plenty for low pressure... up to 3" pipes.


@ajw22 who knows easytouch?

saxon11 said:

Now says rollout SW open

Click to expand...

That means that either flame got out of the combustion chamber into the front of the heater. Its usually not actually a switch, but a fuse that pops and needs to be replaced if that happens.
Open the door, look on the lower left of the cabinet. Attached to the wall is one of these:

You can test it with a meter. Remove the wires and check for continuity across the terminals. If you have continuity, make sure the wires to the part were not damaged, or disconnected at the board when the heater was reassembled when a repair was made. If all is good, it sounds like your board is going bad.

On a rare occasion, only once, I have seen an actual switch in place of that thermal fuse. It will look something like this and just needs the button pushed in to reset:

You need to find out why flame is getting out of the chamber. If the heater wasn't running when this code popped up, check the wiring. If good it sounds like the board is going bad. Also, check the back of the control board. Lizards and large insects can get killed by the voltage at the board, or just get stuck and short out some of the wiring. Removing them sometimes clears the problem.

If it was sealed stuff then I’d be ok with leaving it but not worth any weird hassle afterwards if it was open bottles. Who knows what someone could/would say.

How much liquid do you all get when the pump pumps through the hose right before the check valve....?

I can see a good amount pumping just curious if there is a required amount of flow in order to make the injector work.

I found this in one of the Amazon reviews for this Stenner Injector used on a IntelliPH

"The Stenner Pump Company Injection Check Valve 1/4-Inch is designed for use with various systems. However, one customer mentioned that it may require too much pressure to flow when used with IntelliPH."
"Bought to use with IntelliPH, but it won't make it through (takes too much pressure to flow)."

COM Port. Larger cable goes to Salt Surge board. Smaller cable goes to Antenna.
I remembered at the last moment that I cannot run the pump for up to 24 hrs to let the PVC cement set.