I've had some automation for years...I had a Stenner chlorine pump on a z-wave timer integrated into my smart home system, etc. I realize 2 fail safes is better than 1 which is why I asked the question to begin with (even though the flow switch on this unit is integrated with the salt cell). So if it's a big deal and I can't rely on the integrated flow switch that's fine...that's all I needed to know and I can correct it. A current sensing relay really sounds like the 'right' way to do it my situation.

hpiper77 said:

I just ordered a replacement Lateral Assembly for my Hayward S160T pool system. The bottom is different from the old one. The new one is open and the old one is solid, does anyone know if this matters?
Thank you

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If that is the right one for your filter, it is good. The open design was to allow sand to get beneath the hub and support it better, at least that is what I was told. Less plastic was probably less expensive as well.

Making progress! My FC is now at 13.5 and CC=0.5. My SLAM goal is 16, so I'm getting there and the pool is looking much better.

But I do have a few more questions about next steps..
1) Once I reach the SLAM value of 16, do I reconnect my SWG and add my 300# of salt?
2) Since the CYA was 30 when I started this process, should I bump that up to the 70-80 range TFP recommends?
3) I'll take readings for pH, TA, Calcium as well. But if they're low, is there a sequence you recommend i.e. Raise pH first?

As always, I greatly appreciate the education everyone is providing to me.

Took it out and discovered my valve is broken, a whole plunger piece is at the bottom of that area. I’m not sure how to get that out. I’m going to see if I can find this valve online to order

I re-read your original post and I'm not completely sure that I understand what you are describing. Yes, it's also possible the valves are plugged into the wrong spots.

You just have to go out and look at the valves when you switch the different modes between Pool, Spa, and Spillover and identify which valves are doing what in each of the modes. Look at the physical valves and see what's happening. When going from pool to spa modes both the inlet and return valves should move positions. If the water is going where you expect it in both pool and spa modes then the JVA toggle switches are in the right positions. When you put it in Spillover move the return valve should turn. If the inlet valve is turning instead the valves are plugged into the wrong sockets on the main board and the two connectors will need to swap sockets.

Very happy with how all this laid out! Have to mount the bonding bridge inside and fasten the conduit on the back. And the doors of course, coming along though!

PaulMummolo said:

Do the solar valves have an actual check valve in them or is it just a hole? If I drill a hole, when the pump is running and solar is off, wouldn't water slowly fill the solar system and leak from the VRV?

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Solar valves have a check valve, yes. Could water eventually get to the panels with just a hole? Depends on the pump and water speed and the distance the water has to be lifted. If you have a VSP running slowly it wouldn't likely happen. If it does, it won't leak at the VRV as they close on pressure, they are just a check valve that opens on vacuum.
In Winter, with the isolation valves closed water can't get to the panels. In the Summer it matters very little as they would not likely ever fill completely. Its been done that way for as many decades as I have done pools, well before VSPs were used, with no issues I am aware of. Even with a single-speed pump I don't recall ever seeing the panels fill if there was a hole in the diverter. The supply pipe, yes. The panels, no.
And, I have seen many systems that used Jandy and Hayward solar controller kits that came with standard valve, no hole, that work just fine. Only Pentair/Compool kits came with that type of valve and only Pentair makes them today.
Variable-speed pumps, with their slow water during filtration (if set properly), change everything about the system.
If it makes you more comfortable, get a valve with the check valve in it and be good, won't hurt anything. If you don't you may be second-guessing yourself and then your pool won't be Troublefree.

If the basket was affecting flow rate, the filter pressure would be lower with the basket than without the basket.

It is possible there may not be any pressure change but it could still affect the purging of the air although with that size pump, it really should not be an issue.

However, 27 PSI is pretty high for that pump so you may have very high head loss plumbing which reduces flow rates and makes priming difficult. Is the heater currently bypassed?

Is the underground copper pipe 1.25"?

What is the distance, pool to pump?

The coupling between the PVC and copper could be another leak source:

Great thank you both! Once we get a break from this rain here in North Texas I will give it a go.

I randomly have been looking at the pressure gauge, but I don't see significant changes. I can test again with and without the basket, but I think no matter what, the pressure will be 26.5 to 27 PSI at 3450 RPM. It is no more than 27 with the basket in and the check valve flapper in. (The flapper is still not reinstalled.) Maybe it is just the roughness of the basket that somehow interferes with water turbulence or air removal? I checked the basket and it is a bona-fide Hayward basket with the proper part # on it.

I have never seen pressure go above 27, even when the DE needs changing (like it did a week or two ago). That prompted me to buy a completely new (brass) air relief valve with gauge to replace the plastic one that has always been there. It should arrive today, but although the attachment part looks just like the plastic one, I think something special needs to be done to put a non-Pentair valve/gauge onto this filter. Hope the installation goes smoothly.

Also, regarding the PSI, when I disassembled the DE filter grids for cleaning a week or so ago, I inspected them and they are all intact. I have replaced 4 of the eight grids in the last 6 months or so, the remaining 4 still look okay.

I may misunderstand the modes:
Auto: Normal ops
Service: Only buttons on the outside panel work
Time Out: Buttons on outside panel work for 3 hrs then return to Auto.

If that is correct then the unit has never been in any mode other than Auto.

Schedule right now is:
Spa : no schedule
Pool : 1 schedule. 10 am to 5 pm
Pool Light: 1 schedule. 8pm to 10:45 pm
Pool High: 1 schedule. 10 am to 12:01 pm
There are no other schedules.
All schedules are every day.

HudsonValley68 said:

My takeaway was that it stayed pretty consistently cloudy until I put the filter in, then it started to clear up.

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Yes. Had you not learned that, you'd still wonder if it ever happened again. That knowledge may be worth more in the long run than what you lost this time. I was mostly trying to cheer you up about it.

Bperry said:

Sadly, that’s just the kind of way it is.

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Its going to be even worse soon. I had to call Lowes the other day and it took at least 2 mins fighting with the AI to get an employee. *Then* they were understaffed on a busy Saturday and the entry level employee wasn't being paid to give a darn.

1poolman1 said:

The ball valves (get 2-way Jandy type if at all possible) in the diagram are to isolate the system when it is drained and not in use in Winter. Without them water can (will) find its way to the panels and either freeze and cause damage or just leak out the panel drain that is left open in Winter.
You absolutely need the vacuum relief valve at the top of the solar array opposite the input to the panels, or as in the diagram. You want the panels to drain as completely as possible when not in use heating. Without one, the heated supply pipes can actually "crush" when the water tries to fall off the roof.
If properly installed and set up, most likely the valve that directs the water to the panels won't be completely shut to the pool. It take two people to do this and is seldom done. When it is done the system is much more efficient.
Because a true "solar" valve is more expensive, and was difficult to get if it wasn't supplied in a solar-controller kit (Pentair/Compool only), we would just drill a 1/4" hole in the diverter of a positive-seal valve and all was good if the rest of the parts were installed properly.

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Do the solar valves have an actual check valve in them or is it just a hole? If I drill a hole, when the pump is running and solar is off, wouldn't water slowly fill the solar system and leak from the VRV?

timjet said:

Ok, this morning the pump came on as scheduled at 10 am on high speed which is 3000 rpm. But, the SWG was not on and the EasyTouch screen did not indicate the pump was on. IOW the screen did not show the pool temp as it should with the pool pump on. At 1201 the pump went completely off. It was suppose to transition to 2200 rpm at that time.

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That describes your POOL HIGH circuit running alone without your POOL circuit being active.

Check the setup for your POOL circuit schedule.

Was your panel in AUTO?

Shows us your schedule setup.

Hi, yes pretty much. I also posted some additional details here : Replacing a Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP pump with a Jandy FloPro 2.7 HP motor

What was the filter pressure for each of the above tests?

The pump basket should not make that much of a difference. The filter pressure, with and without, can indicate how much of a difference it actually is.

What model sheers are you using?

What does the Installation Manual for the sheers show for the throw at various heights?

ajw22 said:

The left side filter pump relay looks properly wired.

Confirm that relay is plugged into the filter pump socket...

View attachment 642154

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Yes the filter pump relay is plugged into the filter socket as you have shown, Thanks.

Inspect, replace if necessary and lube the o-ring on the union that connects your suction side to the pump.

Big thanks to everyone so far. We are well along our journey and pool is near completion.

Masons start tomorrow on wall/waterfall.

It will be 25’ with three 3’ sheers. I can decide overall height still - anyone have thoughts, recommendations or experience of a good height that won’t make the sheer “splash” or fall from too high?

Mason said with the stone I have, I can go up to 30” (2” coping included) and the sheer would begin right underneath the coping.

Uh oh... I spoke too soon...

I went out today and noticed that I did not have the pump basket installed when I did the successful test yesterday. It continued pumping overnight at 1700 RPM without the pump basket, and today there was air under the dome (no water touching the dome). The skimmer basket and the floating weir were installed during the overnight period.

I did three tests below (all done at 3450 RPM and with skimmer basket and floating weir removed to reduced drag as much as possible; also I tightened pump the lid a little more when installing today):

1. I added the pump basket and ran for 10 minutes (still air at top of basket -- when pump turned off, water level was not on the dome, but just barely below it).

2. I removed the basket and ran for about 6 minutes or so (no air bubbles visible while running [1st picture], but when pump turned off, a smallish bubble accumulated at the top of the dome [2nd picture]):

3. I assumed there was some drag/head added by the pump basket that slowed down the flow rate enough to prevent the pump from removing all the air in the basket, so I decided to remove the flapper from the check valve (located on pressure side between the filter and the heater). I tested without the flapper but with the pump basket installed but this was of little help -- essentially same results as Test #1 above.

It does seem that there is still air getting in from somewhere, since there was air in the pump basket this morning, when yesterday there was none. Also, it seems that if air can be almost completely removed simply by removing the pump basket. Maybe the roughness of the pump basket prevents enough rolling turbulence in the basket area to prevent air bubbles from exiting the basket (or maybe the basket slows the flow rate). But still, new air is getting in it seems.

I was wondering... are there O-rings or seals inside the pump that could allow air to enter into the basket area while it is running? Any other ideas?