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AquaPlus "No Cell Power/No Cell Power 1" error

R
I put a new salt cell (Generic T-15) on my AquaPlus system. I'm getting "Chlorinator Off, No Cell Power" and "Check System, Cell Power 1" error messages. Read pretty much all the stuff here and elsewhere. Replaced the GLX-PCB-Pro mainboard with a new one. Changed the 20A fuse to 15A before starting up. Replaced Rectifiers. Transformer voltages seem fine. None of the mainboards appeared to have scorch marks or cold solder joints. I got the last new board to run for about 4 days and things seem fine. Now that board is giving me the errors. I also tried my old salt cell without luck.
I can't think of anything else at this point. I'm considering returning the mainboard and salt cell and trying yet again but I'm starting to have my doubts whether something else is going on. Any ideas?
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Air in the line?

gdmacfarlane
I opened the pool about a month ago and everything has been fine. Today, before my daughter and I went for a swim, I connected the vacuum to the skimmer to give the floor a quick clean. At the end of our swim, we noticed that the returns were spitting out air intermittently. I stopped the pump. Opened the pump. Cleaned the basket. Backwashed the filter. Hours later, every few minutes or so, there will be a sputter.

Any ideas?
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SWG Install and Opening Help

wireform
When you initiate a slam you add what poolmath advises then check it 15 minutes later to see if you hit the slam level. If not add to reach the slam level again. Rinse and repeat till the first time slam level is achieved. Then you can take a 3 hour breather and Check/add back what's missing to hit slam level. As the slam continues it'll take less frequent topping off till it'll hold it completely.
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Polaris 280 refuses to go into one part of shallow end

Lbray812
1poolman1 said:
It looks like there is a return line right above that area. It may be forcing the hose away from that area. It looks like there is a current away from that side of the pool. If you don't have a "directional" eyeball fitting there, get one and have it point down. That in itself will help keep that area cleaner. If you do have one and it is pointing down, the flow may be pushing the Polaris away. Face it more upwards. Some pools just don't lend themselves to all pool cleaners.
That's a lot of hose in the picture. Was it ever cut correctly? Can't see the entire pool.
There are also a lot of curves/coils in that hose. Is it stored when out of the pool in a coil? That will reshape the hose into those curves permanently and could be a part of the problem. If at all possible, when the cleaner is out of the pool, lay the hose straight so the Sun doesn't re-shape it.
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This is all very helpful. Thank you. Yes It was cut to size. But stays in the pool and too many curves. I’ll give that a go as well as the eyeball change!
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New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

PoolStored
Dude, you didn't print out or read the OCLT instructions. Really need FC to be greater than 3ppm.

Do you have liquid chlorine? Then follow this from the OCLT instructions:

If your FC is less than 3 ppm, add enough liquid chlorine to achieve 3 ppm FC, wait 30 minutes, then retest with the FAS-DPD test.

It really does help, for new members to print out test instructions, OCLT, SLAM and keep them with you when doing the first time.
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Rancho Cost-a-Lotta
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Connect Intellichlor to Pentair Pool App

F
Hello,

Any idea how to add the intellichlor to the Pentair pool app? I have an Intelliconnect and have been able to add the whisperflo, master temp and light no problem, but I added the intellichlor following the prompts in the app and it is on my dashboard with no control. Any ideas? Here’s are couple screenshots for reference. Thanks in advance.
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Should I install a valve before this pump (picture)?

T
PoolStored said:
Take the diverter out and try running the pump, see what happens.
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Removing the diverter did help noticeably but it didn't fix it. I ran it at 3450 RPM for about 13 minutes. Water was rolling onto the dome more often and with more coverage than with the diverter. However, when the pump was stopped, the level of the water was still not touching the dome of the clear cover (but, as always, was just below it).

I even tried it with these variations:
- with skimmer basket and floating weir
- with skimmer basket but no floating weir
- no skimmer basket or floating weir

They were all about the same without the diverter.

I will now take off the lid, try to feel the impeller for debris, inspect and lube the drain gaskets/o-rings, and inspect the lid gasket.
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Jandy Actuator & Spillover Feature

C
I recently had the two actuators replaced do to faulting wiring (the pool/spa main drain suction and pool/spa return actuators). When the new actuators were replaced on both the “spillover” feature that usually retuned water from the spa to the pool is now opposite. When I turn on the spillover feature the Jandy actuator actuates the pool/spa return water and return water to from the POOL to the SPA and NOT the main drain suction as it did before from SPA to POOL. The dip switch #3 is turned on as well. Could it be the actuators were placed in the wrong AUX on the iAqualink?

To give you some context of our pool and spa setup. The pool and spa are two bodies of water running on the same filter pump. They are on a schedule and alternate filtration on different times of the day. The main filter pump runs 24hrs per day and also adjusts RPM's throughout the day as well.

I hope all this makes sense.....

Pool equipment setup:
  • Jandy Filter Pump - both pool and spa on same pump
  • Jandy Heater for both pool and spa
  • Jandy SWG for both pool and spa
  • Jandy Actuator value on main drain/pool/spa suction
  • Jandy Actuator value on pool/spa return
  • Cyclone filter/Jandy pump for rain curtain
  • Jandy pump for secondary water feature
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Upgrade Options?

Alexr54
I was thinking about upgrading a very aged pool pump.
Currently i have a Hayward Super 2 with a 1.65hp motor.

I was looking at the Hayward W3SP3206VSP TriStar Variable-Speed Pool Pump with the 2.7 HP motor.
Its pricey...

Does anyone have any other recommendations?
Something that can work ok with a ProLogic controller.
Think right now my pumps are all wired for 240v.

I really don't care about name brand. I really value references from here more, even if its some offshoot brand i never heard of.
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White Cloudy Pool

Newdude
Yes to both questions. If you can see the bottom for swimmers safety, you can swim at slam and its less harsh than tap water with 0 CYA and 1 FC. Tap water may have up to 4 FC. Think that through. Maybe don't take a shower. :ROFLMAO:

FC loss may be all over the place depending how much you brush up off the surface. Each pass of the brush removes another protective layer (biofolm) and there's more algae to be killed. It's why brush and vac are daily chores. Then there is the normal UV burnoff which spikes during the day too.

Anywho, when it seems better then gets worse, don't get discouraged. Progress is still progress, even if its 2 steps forward and one back.

I like to look at it as its going to take X gallons to fix. (Every slam is different). Whatever the value of X is, each gallon added brings you closer to X. Focus on that.
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Pool Looking Green - Opening Tomorrow

PoolStored
MM32 said:
Uhoh, when SLAMming I think I added too much liquid chlorine. My CYA is about 70 and pool math says to shock I should be at about 28 ppm FC. I am currently at 49ppm. Is that going to cause issues to my pool/equipment or is it ok for now?
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One time event will not be a problem.
MM32 said:
Also, my pool company left me a little bottle of algaecide and said I should add it tomorrow. Is there any benefit in doing that or will the chlorine be enough to kill the algae? I do understand that algaecide is preventative and not the answer to an active algae problem. Thanks as always!
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No. Do not add it. We do not recommend algaecide.
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