When to remove water (from rain fall)

Want to the price difference and benefits of each
So we get about 3ft of off season rain and it's your choice if you pump it from above or below the cover. But it'll need pumping. Solid covers are nice for leaving a pump on them to mostly be hands off, but will still need fiddling at times. I drain mine 1ft at a time 2 or 3 times depending on the year, when I was already around all day anyway. It takes 10 mins to setup/breakdown and occasional checking every once in a while, but you're mostly free to do whatever else while it drains so that time doesnt count IMO.

Either way would make me appreciate the drain to waste during the season. :ROFLMAO:

Solid covers can handle more stress, my Basset was digging in for traction and ripping the 'dense mesh'. Not to say he couldn't with a solid cover, but it'd be less likely.

I put my mesh on/off by myself and would need help with a 800 sq ft solid cover because its much heavier.

Mesh is tradionally 1/4 to 1/3 less expensive but not cheap.

That's all I got for now, hang tight for other thoughts.


I have three of those haha
Sweet. Disregard. (y)

Mustard algae and waterbody proximity

I assume you have checked the stairs for hidden algae?

Other than that, it sounds like you have a solid plan. Most importantly, listen to what your pool is telling you. If 10 FC doesn't cut it and you end up with algae, then shoot for 12. Keep in mind that not all pools are created equal and you need to adjust to the factors specific to your pool like poor circulation, direct sun, extra bather load, and in your case, birds/wildlife.

I have a removable ladder - does letting it dry off in the sun kill mustard? I leave the brush and nets and stuff in the pool during the SLAM, but not the ladder...

Discrepancy between TFP test kit and Pool Math App

I am trying to get my Total Alkalinity sorted out on my 30k gal plaster pool. The card that came with my TFP test kit said that my ideal range for TA is 100-120 with an ideal value of 110 for manually chlorinated pools. However, the Pool Math App says that my ideal range is 60-80 with an ideal value if 70. Which is correct? My TA was very low so I raised to 100 based on the card recommendations, but now the app is saying the TA is too high. Which is right?

Nasty stain on Pebble Sheen!

Looks like metals staining - iron or copper.

Crush up some vitamin C tablets into a paste and put it in s sock and rub it on the stain. If it lifts it is iron staining. If it gets darker it is copper staining.


Ascorbic Acid Treatment - Further Reading For iron staining

OK, excellent advice! I am going to give the vitamin C trick a try soon. If it works, I assume I could use ascorbic acid in a sock and spot treat the stain.

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When to remove water (from rain fall)

Not that often to matter IMO (3 to 4 times a season) and the puddle was gone in 20 mins. But before the pool that area was nothing special. 🤷‍♂️


Yup. I got a bigger one that takes a 1 inch or 1.5 inch hose because waiting hours and hours gets old. Now I only wait hours. Lol. Amazon has a 1.6 HP Lanchez pump for $83 which is cheaper than the 0.3 HP at the box stores. Kinda a no brainer.
Oh ok. I have three of those haha. Before I found the leaks in my basement and patched them I had some fun a. One seasons back 🙄

What did you mean I’ll need a pump when I get a mesh cover? My PB quoted me one installed, but I’m trying to research solid covers now. Want to the price difference and benefits of each

SLAM Complete: Still Milky

I do the OCLT because again, what does it hurt?
It hurts nothing but your patience. 😁

To be fair, i'm up early everyday and i'd probably do them for funsies too.


I guess i did misread though.. i was thinking that CC needed to just be less than 1
That's one of the 'should I slam' criteria. (1+ CC).

To exit slam / pass OCLT you need :

-TFP clear water

- Overnight loss of 1FC or less (IMO C's don't get degrees here, so i count 1 FC as a fail).

-CC's of 0.5 or less. (IMO, if one needs 0.2 resolution to pass, they got a C- at best)

Have refreshers, more will make sense now :
SLAM Process
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test




Yes added DE to the filter.
Any noticable improvement compared to the slow improvement ? How quickly did the PSI spike ?

This is new: Can't keep Ph down. Alkalinity is 90.

I never had trouble with Ph before. I would add about a cup or so every week, and things were fine. But for the last few weeks, it keeps rising to 8.0 or higher in a few days for some reason. Just two days ago it was 7.6 (I put in about three cups of muriatic acid), today it's back up to 8.0.

My alkalinity right now is at 90. Calcium hardness is normal. SWG running at about 60% for 10 hours. Chlorine is steady at about 10 ppm. I keep it high because I had a problem with mustard algae last summer and I don't want it returning.

What could be forcing it up? We haven't had any heavy rain in a month.

SLAM Complete: Still Milky

Why ? Why isn't it their machine thats off ? You're more accurate than they are.

Never cheat off the dumbest kid in class. I dont care he got a couple right this/last time. It's not gonna end well.

You need 0.5 CC to pass the OCLT. (TC - FC as reported) *if* we believe the data. You shouldn't be doing the OCLT without clear water either because you don't need multiple fails. 1 is enough to continue slam.

Did you try DE ?
Meh, theirs may be off, i may be off. In any case other than the CH we were both within the accuracy of the test or close enough not to make a difference.

I do the OCLT because again, what does it hurt? I'm not adding chlorine overnight and I'm testing last thing and first thing anyway. It's not like it takes any more effort or chemicals.

I guess i did misread though.. i was thinking that CC needed to just be less than 1. So i guess that means i should be doing the test to .2 instead of .5. (EDIT: Nope, I just checked and I was correct. According to the OCLT article: "If your daytime FC level is within 1 ppm of your nighttime FC level, you passed the OCLT and your water is clean.")

So that means I should be clean.

Yes added DE to the filter.

FC and CYA - Justifying the increased cost of Liquid Chlorine

Welcome to TFP!!!

Being in SoCal, it may be that you have high CYA degradation. I'm not sure your approach is sustainable.
3 pucks a week is 8.2 FC. and add 5 CYA. So 20 CYA per month...that is high, but not out of the realm of possibility.
The weekly shock is likely cal-hypo...which adds calcium, and like CYA only draining removes it. I don't think you get enough rain to pump out enough to lower it.
Normal FC consumption is 3-5 per day, so on the low end, you use 21FC per week. The powdered shock likely is how he got by.

As to the cost side, here are comparisons for your pool size. Don't know the price of the pucks you get, but this is fair comparison with your pool size. Installing an SWG is the way to lower your cost per FC.

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Kinda doesn't matter what you do at this point, without a kit, you don't know where you stand. Get the kit, do your tests, then if you want, follow his routine and report your numbers for a week. Then we can figure out what is going on...

CC - Wont go down!

Haha … my water hits 31°C from sun exposure on any given afternoon starting June 1st … 🥵

The Dryden Aqua people are in your neck of the woods (Scotland). You might look into their filtration systems to see if that’s something you’d invest in. They do sell an Advanced Oxidation Process (AOP) cell that uses UV/peroxide injections to reduce CCs. The only issue there is that a peroxide based AOP system will reduce FC levels so its use would have to be timed in such a way as to not compete with your chlorination process.

Thanks for the link, I think we are going to go for the Elecro Quantum AOP system, reasonably priced & meets the right criteria.

I think the plan upon high CC’s would be to stop chlorinating over night, run the unit all night, then program a chlorine dose in the morning before the pool opens to bring the level back up/replenish the FC it removed in the process.

If this enables us to reduce CC’s in a high demand pool we will be happy with the result.

Does anyone know? Are the CC’s still gassed off with the AOP system? E.G we still need to look at adequate ventilation/air exchange?

Thanks

When to remove water (from rain fall)

It was the greenest because the ground is well watered?
Not that often to matter IMO (3 to 4 times a season) and the puddle was gone in 20 mins. But before the pool that area was nothing special. 🤷‍♂️

Also when you mean submersible pump you mean like a utility pump right? Thats hooks up to a garden hose
Yup. I got a bigger one that takes a 1 inch or 1.5 inch hose because waiting hours and hours gets old. Now I only wait hours. Lol. Amazon has a 1.6 HP Lanchez pump for $83 which is cheaper than the 0.3 HP at the box stores. Kinda a no brainer.

ok, after much research, i still need help knowing which UV system to purchase/install

I am pretty good at researching things, but there is very little info provided for an indoor residential pool. (I'm used to being the outlier)

There are so many choices. And I cannot even seem to narrow it down to whether a low pressure or medium pressure system is needed. My pool stays pretty darn perfect, with the only exception being a consistent creeping up of my CC's. Six kids has always made our family a bit on the large size, and now I keep getting new grandkids too......the battle between me and my CC's is only getting worse. The SLAM's are getting more frequent and are taking longer to resolve the CC's. Yesterday my youngest kid had her yearly "end of the school year" pool party. This weekend, my youngest granddaughters will have their birthday party. It's never ending. (By the way, I'm not complaining about the pool usage. I love it!! Only complaining about the amount of bleach I am needing to dump in there to resolve the CC's)

So, here I am asking the pool gods, to please help me make a decision that will specifically target the CC's of an indoor residential pool. Low or Medium pressure? Which brands are the best? I'm ready to do this thing.
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Solar Cover Questions

I have a blue cover for my 20x40 pool. I opted not to get a reel because they cost more than the cover costs! I only use the solar cover early season and late season. maybe 3 -4 weeks total all year. In the spring I simply fold it accordion style on the end of the pool deck where the diving board would normally go. Once I put the diving board in I do not use the solar cover again until fall. I run the pump my normal 12 hours a day and it seems to be ok.
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When to remove water (from rain fall)

Your setup is somewhat unusual. Most people with cartridge filters do not have a valve that goes to waste. So I think he, like me, thought you had a sand/DE filter with a multiport valve.

You may move the valves while the pump is running just try not to starve the pump of water while doing it. I never shut my pump off before turning valves.
Yep, my mistake.
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When to remove water (from rain fall)

They use a submersible pump. You'll need one for the winters if you have a mesh cover. It's good to have even if not, kinda like a shop vac. You won't use it often but if you ever need it, its worth its weight in gold.

That was the greenest and thickest spot by far at the old place. At my new place up the block, it doesnt seem to care either way.
It was the greenest because the ground is well watered?

Also when you mean submersible pump you mean like a utility pump right? Thats hooks up to a garden hose

SLAM Complete: Still Milky

My CH was reading zero and they got 94 so my chemicals are probably shot
Why ? Why isn't it their machine thats off ? You're more accurate than they are.

Never cheat off the dumbest kid in class. I dont care he got a couple right this/last time. It's not gonna end well.
When I first looked at the difference between Free and Total Chlorine I went 'Ah... there it is. Still have Algae' except, that it is .7 which means that it would pass the OCLT test.
You need 0.5 CC to pass the OCLT. (TC - FC as reported) *if* we believe the data. You shouldn't be doing the OCLT without clear water either because you don't need multiple fails. 1 is enough to continue slam.

Did you try DE ?

Possible leak?

Hello,

I have opened our pool Southern Wisconsin and everything seemed to be doing fine. Experienced some water loss pretty heavy (4in) in 48 hours and thought I had a suction side leak. Had the pool off for a few days and the water loss stoped just above the bottom of the skimmers. Filled it up and it’s been fine for the last week and a half. No water loss, no air in pump, no bubbles in returns, everything was perfect. Backwashed yesterday and have had 3 inches of water loss with the filter running. Water loss the first time was the same with pump on and pump off. No other signs of water loss as pump is working perfectly and keeping prime with no bubbles on supply or return side. I have checked the backwash pipe and it’s not leaking as I thought it may be the multi port seal. I have tried the leak dye and nothing on the return sides and I thought there was a possible leak on the supply side due to dye getting sucked in slowly. But with there being no water loss the last week and an half I’m lost. Any thoughts on next steps?

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