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Enzodast · May 11, 2025

ajw22 said:
Yup, it is linked to your profile and the button shows...

View attachment 645225

I never need to add liquid chlorine to my pool if my SWG is working correctly.

But I run my pump and SWG 24/7 to always add some chlorine to the pool.

Rain has little effect on the water chemistry of your FC level as long as your pump is running. The dilution is minimal unless your pool overflows out a drain.

If your pump is not running during the rain, you should not do any testing until it runs for a few hours and mixes the water well.

BTW, your CYA is 80, not 75. We always round up.

thanks, i'm running 24 hours already. right now it's low maybe 1600 rpms for overnight cycle. i haven't set a full schedule yet, i've been doing manual speeds and leaving it in manual. I WISH it was wifi...but hopefully that upgrade is coming with the core control unit.

i'm still curious when at the donation section it says golf donors get money towards the tfp store. i can't find that store...if that's not tftestkit then what's the discount code go to?

PoolStored · May 11, 2025

Enzodast said:
also dumb question... on pool math to raise ph it says ph up/ soda ash/ washing soda. is washing soda baking soda? i have soda ash and it says i can add 1 lb 10.4 oz to get up to 7.6 ph

pH will rise on its own. Unless your pH < 7, don't add anything to raise pH.

With a TA of 80, your pH will rise. With a TA of 60-80, don't lower your pH below 7.6, and I'd recommend letting your pH be 7.8 to 8.0. Only when pH gets above 8 (purple hues), then lower your pH to 7.8.

ajw22 · May 11, 2025

ajw22 · May 11, 2025

Enzodast said:
also i went into my profile in pool math and linked to my profile. can you see if you can see my logs now please?

Yup, it is linked to your profile and the button shows...

Enzodast said:
also i haven't added any shock since slam finished, and we had rain. but SWG has been off. it'll be on in the am, should i throw in another gallon of chlorine in the morning you think also? then let SWG do it's thing? how often do you all typically add chlorine during a season when the swg is running? after a heavy rain typically is what i would do here...

I never need to add liquid chlorine to my pool if my SWG is working correctly.

But I run my pump and SWG 24/7 to always add some chlorine to the pool.

Rain has little effect on the water chemistry of your FC level as long as your pump is running. The dilution is minimal unless your pool overflows out a drain.

If your pump is not running during the rain, you should not do any testing until it runs for a few hours and mixes the water well.

BTW, your CYA is 80, not 75. We always round up.

JamesW · May 11, 2025

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

Become a TFP Supporter

Help Support TFP Trouble Free Pool is run by a dedicated group of volunteers that … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

PoolStored · May 11, 2025

Enzodast said:
what is the tf pool store.... is that tftestkits.com?

One of our members started a business to repackage Taylor reagents, change the amount to better match the amount of testing we do (more FC, less TA and CH). Tend to be a better value (use vs. cost). That is TFtestkits.net

Enzodast · May 11, 2025

also dumb question... on pool math to raise ph it says ph up/ soda ash/ washing soda. is washing soda baking soda? i have soda ash and it says i can add 1 lb 10.4 oz to get up to 7.6 ph

PoolStored · May 11, 2025

Become a TFP Supporter

Help Support TFP Trouble Free Pool is run by a dedicated group of volunteers that … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

Enzodast · May 11, 2025

PoolStored said:
redacted...

huh?

also i'm looking at the donation page. what is the tf pool store.... is that tftestkits.com?

PoolStored · May 11, 2025

The promotion comes and goes seasonally. Now is high demand so they do regular pricing.
It will come back, all depends on when.

Newdude said:
The new core 55 is $3000

There are two products.
Core 55 standalone (just the generator): $1995 discountsaltpool.com

CircuPool CORE55 Saltwater Chlorinator for up to 55000 gallon salt water pools

www.circupool.com

And Core Control 55 which has minimal automation/app: $2500 circupool.com

CircuPool CORE CONTROL 55 | WiFi Automation Platform | Elect

www.circupool.com

ajw22 · May 11, 2025

Waterway has a few removal tools. Not sure if this one is it for you.

Waterway Poly Gunite Jet Wrench Tool, 218-1770

https://www.amazon.com/Waterway-Poly-Gunite-Wrench-218-1770/dp/B01534AO4E

ol_whistle_britches · May 11, 2025

ajw22 said:
Use Long Deck Anchors or 9" Pipe Anchors that will go through the paver into the concrete below.

+1

BigLebowski said:
3. We were going for a higher end look, it’s a classic, 100 year old property. A few folks have said that the sand base will not hold up well, will have issues with freeze/thaws, and will look sloppy for a more finished property.

My opinion: You know what really looks sloppy? Stress cracks, popped tiles, and unnatural joint patterns that telegraph the substrate. Doing paver maintenance isn’t fun, but it is manageable and doable in bite sized chunks. (Also, I suspect they’re speaking to you about a traditional sand bed, not sand over concrete.)

Keep in mind your concrete and your pavers will have different expansion/contraction properties and that same freeze/thaw cycle is going to be imparting opposing forces against any thinset adhesive. Tile work is a much bigger PITA in my opinion, especially if the material has started to weather and you can’t match it.

mshurtle · May 11, 2025

We are back in business my friends! Indeed, I just had to pull and wiggle harder than I thought. I also took off the single pole breaker next to it first which gave me more grip and leverage, and off she came. New breaker popped right in and wire connections were piece of cake. The $$ for the electrician went to Mother's Day dinner instead. Thanks everyone!

Enzodast · May 11, 2025

ajw22 said:
To clarify...

That valve in the middle of the H manifold is a check valve with a 5 pound spring.

As that check valve is installed in the H configuration, it creates a bypass at high flow rates.

That check valve does not perform the functions other check valves in pool plumbing typically do.

Aquacal calls it a BYPASS KIT. The kit consists of the check valve in the manifold configuration as a bypass.

i get it, but this is apparently what aquacal sent with the heater....

also i went into my profile in pool math and linked to my profile. can you see if you can see my logs now please?

also i haven't added any shock since slam finished, and we had rain. but SWG has been off. it'll be on in the am, should i throw in another gallon of chlorine in the morning you think also? then let SWG do it's thing? how often do you all typically add chlorine during a season when the swg is running? after a heavy rain typically is what i would do here...

PoolStored · May 11, 2025

You reported CYA of 60 and 75 within minutes of each other, and an FC of 5.
1) always round CYA up to the next 10, or only fill the view tube to each ten when you test. Review the instructions here: CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test
2) If your CYA is 80, you should be 6-11 FC with SWG. But, you are running your SWG, like a LC pool (adding for 12 hours). FC pool is 9-11
3) Get your FC up to 10 with liquid chlorine and keep it there with SWG
4) Run your VSP 24/7. Run your SWG 23 hours and reduce your % output.
5) Follow this link-->FC/CYA Levels

Newdude · May 11, 2025

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
If you've considered automation, there is new Core Series

The new core 55 is $3000 before the $500.'sale'. Its $900 more than the RJ60+ for less lifespan, but wifi.

I suspect they will only get true enthusiasts or affluent customers.

ajw22 · May 11, 2025

Enzodast said:
see link below...this is what mine looks like and i've attached images. the actual model when you zoom in on mine is

https://www.amazon.com/DEL-Ozone-Delcheck-Check-CO-0103/dp/B00LSNSB8G/ref=asc_df_B00LSNSB8G?mcid=1632122919bc364db869ab7cedb5e44c&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693071814427&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17678894175225519730&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014710&hvtargid=pla-2245070742959&psc=1&hvocijid=17678894175225519730-B00LSNSB8G-&hvexpln=0

AquaCal Bypass Manifold - STK0135

www.saltpoolguys.com

so i have no idea if they gave me the wrong one but it came from the factory with the unit. at least in the photo from their shop it showed this box on top of the heat pump.

i'll reach out to aquacal tomorrow and ask them how to confirm but it looks like the links above.

To clarify...

That valve in the middle of the H manifold is a check valve with a 5 pound spring.

As that check valve is installed in the H configuration, it creates a bypass at high flow rates.

That check valve does not perform the functions other check valves in pool plumbing typically do.

Aquacal calls it a BYPASS KIT. The kit consists of the check valve in the manifold configuration as a bypass.

Jimrahbe · May 11, 2025

Sigh!!

zu1uuu · May 11, 2025

Yeah it does kinda look like the one shown as '400-9390' here: https://waterwayplastics.com/wp-content/uploads/400-9390-1000x854.png

Jimrahbe · May 11, 2025

Why,

I do not know the exact number, but my guess is that 98% of saltwater pool owners do not have an anode and that most of them have no corrosion issues..

Using an anode seems to be related to where you live.. More people in the North East, seem to think they are required, while people in Texas and Florida, do not.

Until recently I had three saltwater pools.. I had them for well over 12 years.. None of them had an anode, and I had zero corrosion on anything in or near the pools.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta · May 11, 2025

Enzodast said:
PoolMath Logs

Numbers are here.

Looks good, but don't flirt with FC minimum. Stay closer to mid-target level (FC/CYA Levels). TA is good.

Enzodast · May 11, 2025

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
I've been following along with you. TFP survives with the support of our members. There are no annoying pop-up and ads. Please consider supporting TFP as you're able:

Become a TFP Supporter

Help Support TFP Trouble Free Pool is run by a dedicated group of volunteers that … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

I can't see your numbers. Feel free to post a full set of results next time you test. Vinyl pools are a bit easier to manage. Keep numbers within recommended ranges. We do recommend lower TA with SWG pools to mitigate scale in the cell. Shoot for the 60-80 range.

I like to run FC a bit hot. There's not harm in doing so and keeping FC a bit high gives you a bit of a cushion. I make it easy and target about 10% of my CYA. When my CYA is at 80 ppm, I target an FC of 8 ppm.

I'm glad things are going well!

PoolMath Logs

Numbers are here.

PoolStored · May 11, 2025

Calhoonpool2025 said:
something in our system corroding

Oh, Lord. Please, for the love of Lucile Ball, stay out of the pool store. Ask me why I am "PoolStored." Actually, don't just see this link. Link-->I knew I was Pool Stored when...

Calhoonpool2025 said:
the guy at Leslie’s

LOW pH will cause corrosion, not high pH. He doesn't know what he is talking about.

Without staining, or someone's blond hair turning green, copper is not an issue. Stop using the pool store and reacting to their fear tactics. You pool looks fantastic.

Here is what you need to do.

Get your own test kit and manage your own pool. Here are our recommendations. Link-->Test Kits Compared
Review pool care basics. -->Pool Care Basics
Review FC / CYA relationship.-->FC/CYA Levels
Get pool math, it will help you with all chemical additions. -->PoolMath

This is TFP-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

When you get your kit, post up results and we'll fine tune you.

JamesW · May 11, 2025

You are asking us to diagnose the plaster problem with no reliable chemistry information.

Not really a realistic expectation.

If you had just joined, that would be a completely different story.

However, after 7 years and multiple recommendations to get a good test kit, you should be well aware of how important good test results are.

Mattikuss · May 11, 2025

pjt said:
GPM isn't that useful. You'll have to experiment to determine the minimum RPM that closes the flow swtich. Keep lowering the pump speed until you get a red flow light. Add 100-200 RPM and use that as your RPM floor.

Really? I swear my manual says GPM minimum is 20.

pjt said:
That's common and quite possible. Makes sense to start troubleshooting there. The o-ring and the mating surfaces must be clean. Apply a thin coat of lube.

Got it!

pjt said:
Main drains don't really do that. The suction is too weak and dispersed.

I don’t mean leaves and large debris, but the dust and floating particles that make their way to the bottom, right?

pjt said:
Aladdin Magic Lube II Silicone

https://www.amazon.com/Magic-Lube-II-Silicone-oz/dp/B0030CVCJI

Thank you!

Enzodast · May 11, 2025

ajw22 said:
False advertising, but ok.

Available Accessories

see link below...this is what mine looks like and i've attached images. the actual model when you zoom in on mine is

https://www.amazon.com/DEL-Ozone-Delcheck-Check-CO-0103/dp/B00LSNSB8G/ref=asc_df_B00LSNSB8G?mcid=1632122919bc364db869ab7cedb5e44c&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693071814427&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17678894175225519730&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014710&hvtargid=pla-2245070742959&psc=1&hvocijid=17678894175225519730-B00LSNSB8G-&hvexpln=0

AquaCal Bypass Manifold - STK0135

www.saltpoolguys.com

so i have no idea if they gave me the wrong one but it came from the factory with the unit. at least in the photo from their shop it showed this box on top of the heat pump.

i'll reach out to aquacal tomorrow and ask them how to confirm but it looks like the links above.

Enzodast · May 11, 2025

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta · May 11, 2025

If you've considered automation, there is new Core Series that was recently released that offers, "advanced automation designed for seamless integration with your existing pool setup. This WiFi-enabled chlorine generator ensures your pool stays clean, balanced, and easy to manage—all from your smartphone."

We've had a few members install them recently. What's frustrating is there's no way to set SWG scheduling via the app. I'm guessing in the future there will be more features and integration with other devices. Here's a link if you're interested.

CircuPool CORE CONTROL 55 | WiFi Automation Platform | Elect

www.circupool.com

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