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Joey Finnegan · May 12, 2025

So I checked the rectifiers for a short. I get continuity on the left rectifiers between the top two legs. I also see that one of the yellow wires looks like it has gotten a little hot. I don’t see a sticker on the salt cell for part number. Is there a way to check salt cell for a short? Not sure which pins to test on the salt cell cord.

Joey Finnegan · May 12, 2025

Joey Finnegan · May 12, 2025

Joey Finnegan · May 12, 2025

Mdragger88 · May 12, 2025

trichlor is also acidic- this can bite you if you’re not careful about monitoring ph & ta.
Its fine to use them just beware of all the effects which you may or may not need.
For more than just a little cya bump I prefer to just use dry stabilizer. As mentioned above it is also cheaper.

TinFoilHat · May 12, 2025

8.0 or 8.2 but that's how subjective those colors can be. If you add 1 pt of acid and the color remains pink then you're fine. That's how mine behaves.

TinFoilHat · May 12, 2025

I think PoolStored is on to something there. Since you're here you can start preparing to take care of your pool yourself with the TFP methodology. There's no need to visit any pool stores now. Read the following links, especially the test kits link and get yourself a test kit ordered.
Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared
FC/CYA Levels
PoolMath

JohnFlyer · May 12, 2025

Would you’ll think this PH is 7.8 or closer to 8.0?

JohnFlyer · May 12, 2025

PoolStored · May 12, 2025

Tallredrider said:
get it down to 7.6

Stop forcing it to 7.6. TA 60-70 should be a stable ph of 7.8 to 8. Don't lower it until it gets above 8 (purple hues).

generessler · May 12, 2025

I do this every year and when CYA hits 70 turn the SWG on. The Pool Math "effects of adding" is pretty accurate for CYA increase. A down side is that pucks are more expensive than CYA last time I looked.

Oli77 · May 12, 2025

FC still 16 so I lowered my SWCG to 25% from 30%.
TA was only 40 so added sodium bicarb.
CyA was not even there, so I added some of that.
Temp was 75, went for first swim. very clear and chilly.

Katodude · May 12, 2025

Drop your TA some more. Try 60 and see what happens. Do that before you go to borates.

ajw22 · May 12, 2025

newpoolNJ said:
It’s MasterTemp in Intellicenter. Confirmed it’s RS-485. Here’s some photos of the gas meter.

I cannot read any of the labels on your gas meter...

Your sediment trap is incorrectly installed on the gas line.

Heater Maintenance - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

The correct sediment trap design is for the gas to make a 90 degree turn to go into the heater while the sediment can drop down into the sediment trap as shown in the Pentair diagram below. We see many gas line installations with the gas going straight and the sediment trap on a 90 degree bend. The sediment will not make that turn and continue into the gas valve eventually causing it to fail.

Mdragger88 · May 12, 2025

Follow the
SLAM Process
You will need an fas dpd test kit for that. Your k2005 is missing this.

FAS/DPD Chlorine Test Kit

tftestkits.net

Or Taylor https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai...p9qWkZ-NAxW0SzABHd5VAB8Qwg8oAHoECAYQDQ&adurl=
If your cya is reading over 90 then you need to do the diluted test (see step 8)

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

To confirm your true cya so you can replace the appropriate amount of water as doing the slam process with cya over 70 or so takes alot of chlorine which isn’t cheap. Ideally it would be better at 30-50ppm for slam.
See —> FC/CYA Levels

Until you have that fas dpd kit and can slam properly just add 5ppm worth of liquid chlorine each day to keep things from getting worse.
Use PoolMath to calculate

ajw22 · May 12, 2025

ajw22 · May 12, 2025

PoolStored · May 12, 2025

Personally, I'd sock it.
Too hard to control FC to stay in range. Always follow this either way you go: FC/CYA Levels

ajw22 · May 12, 2025

newpoolNJ said:
Hot Tub Jets Losing Pressure: When the air bubbler is off, the hot tub jets have very low pressure. The pump speed stays at ~3450 RPM, but the water flow feels weak without air. Is this normal due to the Venturi effect, or could it be a flow issue? Might the IntelliValve position, pump settings, or plumbing be affecting this?

How many jets are in the spa?

What is the filter PSI in POOL mode and SPA mode?

What GPM does the IntelliCenter show for the pump at what RPM in POOL mode and SPA mode?

What size pipes were used to the spa jets?

Show us the RETURN and INTAKE valve positions in POOL mode and SPA mode. Four pictures.

newpoolNJ said:
Stiff Hot Tub Jet Inserts: Some Waterway Poly Jet Twist-Lock inserts are very hard to twist (for opening/closing or flow adjustment), while others move easily. The builder used liquid Teflon on the housing threads. Could overtightening (due to Teflon) or residue in the Twist-Lock grooves cause this?

Has the jets been removed and checked for any debris?

How is water flow without the jets installed?

newpoolNJ said:
Heater Issues: The MasterTemp 400 makes a whistling noise and cuts off before reaching the desired spa temperature. Could this be due to insufficient flow (related to jet issues), gas pressure, or a heater problem? PSEG is upgrading the gas meter, but any other ideas?

What GPM does the IntelliCenter show when in SPA mode with the heat on?

Do you have a heater bypass installed?

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

newpoolNJ said:
General Equipment Check: Is my setup appropriate for an 18x36 pool and 8x8 spillover hot tub? Equipment:

IntelliFlo3 VSF pump

IntelliChlor IC40 (55% output)

IntelliValve for flow control

IntelliCenter with Wi-Fi

MasterTemp 400 heater

Your equipment is top of the line.

Leeboy20 · May 12, 2025

Opened the pool 2 weeks ago and have it clear and not using more than 1 ppm of chlorine overnight . Did a CYA test and it’s gotta be 10 or so. The weather won’t be good enuff to use it for another week or 10 days . Wondering if we should run pucks for a week , or throw some cya powder in the sock and try and bring it up ?

newpoolNJ · May 12, 2025

ajw22 said:
Welcome to TFP.

Since you are asking about your heater, show us pictures of your gas meter, the data plates on it, and the gas line connection to the MasterTemp heater.

Is the MasterTemp connected to the IntelliCenter by Fireman's switch or RS-485? Is it setup in the IntelliCenter as Gas Heater or MasterTemp?

It’s MasterTemp in Intellicenter. Confirmed it’s RS-485. Here’s some photos of the gas meter.

newpoolNJ · May 12, 2025

newpoolNJ · May 12, 2025

newpoolNJ · May 12, 2025

newpoolNJ · May 12, 2025

PoolStored · May 12, 2025

Fathead657 said:
i had to google it.

It has been a Loooooong time since I scored a googlewhack...added one to the collection.
"My master made me for a purpose." movie <--is a googlewhack.

TeanyV · May 12, 2025

So, this is out there, but some people get localized hives from vibrations. This is most common with shower water, but I think a spa jet creates perfect conditions for people who are predisposed. If it’s just you, and your chemistry turns out to clear, then it could be that. It’s called “vibrational urticaria,” and should go away shortly after exposure. (Take this suggestion with a grain of salt, though, because I’ve been living in a hive machine lately, so it all comes back to hives for me. I’m basically a conspiracy theorist but for hives.)

TinFoilHat · May 12, 2025

That's okay. I haven't seen The Master.

The Spectacle · May 12, 2025

Thanks for the reassurances.

Installed the new unit. Went right in place with no modifications needed. EasyTouch is reading and controlling it as expected. So far so good!

Mdragger88 · May 12, 2025

Hard to tell from the photo but my guess & recommendation is the same as @PoolStored

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