dannyfanny said:

what?? is that what normal people do ?? spend 50-60$ a WEEK? no way... is that what im signing up for by not doing pucks and shock anymore and strictly liquid chl?

Click to expand...

In Arizona, the way to go is Salt Water chlorine generator. Comparison cost per FC.



If you have algae, follow the SLAM process to clear the algae. Link-->SLAM Process

You normally only need to test FC daily, pH every couple days and the rest either weekly or monthly.

You TF100 is just fine.

phonedave said:

top

Click to expand...

What makes you deduce that? We filled the ground a few inches, removed sod, spread dirt evenly...leveled leveled leveled ..filled the massive roller with water so that it was at its full weight capacity rolled over it time and time again and compacted the dry soil. It was nice and flat.

sande005 said:

Using tabs, as you did before, would require about 2 per day to counter 4 ppm CL sunlight loss. About $5.75. Starting from 0, it would be much less than 50 days for CYA to exceed 100, and water replacement then needed. (tab use needs to increase to counter the climbing CYA, which increases CYA faster...)
With 10% liquid, it would take a smidge more than 1 gal per day, so perhaps $7. No need ever to replace the water. But there are all those jugs.
As noted, you likely will need even more of either over the course of the summer, but less over winter. The above is likely a pretty low $ number for Arizona if extending over the course of a year.
Make the jump to a Salt Generator, and it will be paid for in 1 to 1 1/2 years. The additional life of about 4 yrs more (and maybe 8), would then be free. And maybe 1/2 of the original cost to replace the cell at the end of life. No more daily adds of anything, or water exchanges.

Right now, the course is to do the SLAM, which will take several/many gallons of liquid and days to eliminate the algae. Then after, keep adding daily at a much higher rate than you have.

Click to expand...

After I dump in a gallon of chlorine, the next day the block test shows that my chlorine is over five but by the next day, it's probably at three and by the next day, it's basically zero. Does that just mean I'm fighting some algae? So how much do I need to put in? 3 gallons 4 gallons? and once I do that, would 1 gallon a week suffice to keep it at bay?

How much is a saltwater generator? I'll have to look into that. Some idiots sold me on getting rid of my sand filter and now I have these cartridge filters which are a pain in the butt. It takes me two hours to spray them out every six months my life was good and simple with the sand filter.

mas985 said:

All that should be fixed when you replace the deck. Just make sure everything is bonded before they repour the deck.

Click to expand...

The contractor I have coming tomorrow to look at the job does a lot of pool landscaping jobs in my area- really fancy landscaping work per their website- with pavers and various sorts of pool decks (along with just regular patios, etc). I am not going fancy, just a basic pool deck but probably not concrete this time. I'll find out their options tomorrow.

They sub out any vinyl pool work to a local vinyl pool builder who I am assume will do the new bond wire or have their own electrician do it. All I really need their pool contractor to do is do the bond wire and replace the light in my pool that leaks bad now. That's it for the pool work.

I am going to have the pool guy he uses triple check to make sure everything is bonded perfectly before the landscape contractor has his guys put the pavers down. I am going to make sure, this time, that I also look at it and take picture to document the bond wire is done right. I didn't know enough about this issue to pay it any attention when I had my pool built in 2017. I just assumed the pool contractor would do it right since they had been in business for 30 years.

Brant,

Why?????

My 3 HP IntelliFlo runs at 24/7, mostly at 1200 rpm.. About 200 watts per the pump..

It does not even show up as a rounding error on my electrical bill...

It may be off a little, but it can't be too much.

Thanks,

Jim R

JamesW said:

That gives you volt-amps, which is apparent power.

Real Power is volts x Amps x Power Factor.

It really depends on how accurate you are trying to measure the power.

Click to expand...

Good to know. I've never heard of power factor so this is new to me. I'll pickup one of those watt meters and do a comparison to understand.

Thanks for the help!

duraleigh said:

Your issue is chemistry.........not mechanical brushing and cleaning. You will need a good test kit to monitor your chems much better. The TFTestkits TF-Pro is the best for your purposes. Once you purchase your kit, we would then ask you to SLAM your pool. Read the article on SLAMming in Pool School.

Click to expand...

i have the TF 100 isn't that good enough? although it takes me like an hour if i were to do the chl and ph and cya. and everything. going through all the steps and reading and measuring everything twice as i go. not exactly trouble free in my opinion. i don' t have an extra hour a day to do all these tests. how do i simplify this?

Not an issue...

Newdude said:

Also brace yourself.

You will lose 4 FC per day or maybe even 5 FC in your hot climate. A gallon of 10% is only about 3.3 FC for you so it will be well over a gallon a day soon, or it will be swamp-y / stain-y

Click to expand...

what?? is that what normal people do ?? spend 50-60$ a WEEK? no way... is that what im signing up for by not doing pucks and shock anymore and strictly liquid chl?

dannyfanny said:

What's up y'all I have a 25 to 30,000 gal inground pebble tech pool. I live in Arizona and we use the pool daily. It looks good right now but I'm having to use about 2 gallons a week lately. AND I'm having to scrub the pool at least twice a week sometimes more. (aint nobody got time for that) I'll dump in a gallon of chlorine and scrub it but within three days, I'm noticing the slight green algae forming on my walls again. ( i think its the older version of the phoenix cleaner. it has that sticker on it "the pool cleaner". Which in my opinion is a piece of Crud I have spent $500 just on replacing those stupid plastic gears and rubber tires on it over the years, but that'll be another thread. its 7 years old and doesn't climb the walls anymore)

anyways, my water was changed a year ago and I stopped using pucks and shock. I'm testing the water every day lately with the block test of 5 drops of the yellow and red for chl and PH. my cya is good.

My question is does this seem about normal to go through that much chlorine and I have to scrub it like this? or Do I need to put way more chlorine in to get ahead and totally wipe it out any alge and then I won't have to use as much or scrub it as much going forward?

side question do the $45 special pebble tech brushes really make that much of a difference? They don't have the side brushes on it, which is good for the corners and the steps so I was tempted to get a knock off version on Amazon that has the side brushes to make my life easier but they aren't the special hard "pebble bristles" does it really matter or is that just marketing?

please keep it simple for me. thanks!

Click to expand...

ajw22 said:

Welcome to TFP.

You need a better test kit. The Taylor K-2006C or TFT Test Kits

Can your pool pass a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test? If not, you need to follow the SLAM Process step by step to get your pool algae free.

Then follow TFP methods to maintain the correct FC/CYA ratio.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Algae Archives

www.troublefreepool.com

Click to expand...

i have the TF 100 isn't that good enough? although it takes me like an hour if i were to do the chl and ph and cya. going through all the steps and reading and measuring everything twice as i go. not trouble free in my opinion.

nevromni said:

We bought a roller and compacted soil

Click to expand...

You did nothing to compact the soil with a roller. Seriously, you compacted maybe the top 1/4" of soil if you were luck, and almost definitely not to its maximum dry density.

nevromni said:

I know the safest recommendation is to have it level within 1" but I also know there is a safe maximum inch out of level.. I just wanted to get a feel for real users and real experiences with a level top rail and straight legs and no leaning how safe I really am at 2" unlevel between opposite ends?

Click to expand...

1" is what is recommended because 1" is considered safe. An above ground pool, especially an Intex type pool such as yours, is nothing more than a giant vinyl bag full of (heavy) water that is deriving all of its structural support from the integrity of the top ring and posts. It relies on all of the horizonal forces being in balance. Every bit it is out of level leads to greater unbalanced forces.

nevromni said:

Again I believe these pools are built to withstand more than Google searches would lead you to believe. If they weren't durable they wouldn't sell them, this is not a wonky setup with legs all disheveled and the liner angled in different positions, it is level in many different ways. I believe some shifts in soft soil bottom and weight of pool caused an unlevel appearance that is valid but not necessarily "unsafe" ... I'm definitely not an expert and do have concerns but I'm not ignorant either so as I internally analyze I thought I'd put feelers out and make connections with other personal experiences.

Click to expand...

I think you are looking at the facts, and you know they are the facts, but you don't want own up to the harsh reality that your pool likely needs to be re-done. I get it, it sucks. It is a lot of wasted work and money. But the fact is, the limits recommended by the manufacturer are there for a reason. Of course there is a factor of safety built into those limits. But the FS is there for a reason as well. Somebody leaning over the rail to try and reach a dropped float while someone else does a cannonball and all of a sudden you pool has turned into a giant, temporary, slip and slide.

nevromni said:

Thank you for your reply. I am not using the tiles to measure I'm just saying they make the unevenness stand out more and make it look more distorted. I have measured the water surface to the top of the rail all around the pool and that's where I got the 2-in difference. I believe despite the excavating, leveling, and compacting we did The rains of course loosened up the soil and we installed on mud causing shifts in the soil of leading to the unlevel outcome. I used a level between every section and they are all within range. I used a string level across pool both ways and it shows level ... Not to mention after a couple of inches of water were in the pool and I was smoothing out the liner I came upon a rock that would not go back down into the ground so it took three .. two holding up the liner and me shimmying underneath it to remove the rock, successfully, but again this caused the soil to shift and that is "the deep end". You are right I am not going to find a definitive answer which is hard for my analytical brain. My thorough assessment and involvement in everything about this installation tells me it's safe for the season and I fully intend to make corrections before winterizing it.
I guess I'm just disappointed it's not perfect.

I will also note that the 2-in difference or high side is only on one section consisting of 7 out of 24 legs. The rest of the pool is within 1" or less level. If that makes sense...
Based on everything I've shared i would assume the liner is not sitting quite right but it looks uniform all the way around and as I stated no bulging or leaning.

Click to expand...

Forget looing at the liner. Go around the pool and measure from the water line to the bottom of the top rail. Those measurements should all be withing 2 inches. It really does not matter if one leg is 2" low and all of the others are dead on, or if half the pool is lower than the other. Or even if somehow they are all in the same plane, but still 2" off of the water line. The liner is not a structural element, per se. The legs and rails are. The legs need to be plumb, and the rail level.

It is also recommended that you do not install a pool on any sort of fill dirt. You dig down to level, and that is all. If you have torn up the ground, you need to dig down more. Compacting fill is not as simple as "packing it real good". Adding water to help it pack is not a thing (well, it is, but it has to be the proper amount of water as determined by testing). A garden roller provides next to no compaction. Hand compactors really don' either. A BIG vibratory plate can be used, but it has to be used correctly, with the proper moisture content. Most people do not have the ability to A) Determine optimum moisture content and the acceptable deviation. B) What the water content of the soil is C) How much of the maximum dry density you have compacted the soil to.

Nfrisa said:

I do have Borates at 50.

Click to expand...

That should lower the Carbonate Alkalinity enough.

You are probably just worrying too much at the higher pH levels.

If the CSI is good, don't lower the pH.

Maybe get a pH meter to be really sure.

If the pH is below 8.3 and the CSI is below +0.2, then you should just leave the pH where it is.

Many people read the higher pH values as higher than they really are.

Most people over worry about higher pH when they could just leave it alone and do nothing.

Show your pH test and what you think it is.

zicklag said:

I'm wondering if the sand filter is just filtering things really slowly and I'm considering getting a filter bag

Click to expand...

Intex equipment just isnt up for the job. There are no two ways about it. Upgrade several sizes and its still several sizes too small.

Then all above ground pools have less than ideal circulation adding another strike.

It will take patience and time. Or drain and be done in a snap.

zicklag said:

. I see a comment on the forum saying some people use it to clear the water faster

Click to expand...

2009 posts didnt always age well. In the meantime we have seen disaster after disaster and will rarely suggest it.

Do you have a sewer cleanout? Pump the water to that to dispose of it.
Expensive water is $10 per 1000 gallons. That is $45 ---

Please, for the Love of Lucy, do not use flocc.

Click to expand...

️ ️

have you considered draining and replacing water?

Click to expand...

One concern was that it might be expensive. I'll have to double-check the exact costs.

The other concern is having a place to actually dump all that water. It's in our back yard, right next to the house.

Get PoolMath and start tracking all chemicals including CSI.

PoolMath

Mr Glenn said:

I responded to you below ajw22

Click to expand...

I am pretty sure I got the black diverter at solar in the correct position (closing the port on the right , so water going in doesn't mix with water going out). So I just need feedback on my other two questions. Thanks

That gives you volt-amps, which is apparent power.

Real Power is volts x Amps x Power Factor.

It really depends on how accurately you are trying to measure the power.

mknauss said:

That is the one. The owner posts on the forum at times. Have never heard of a complaint.

Click to expand...

I went ahead and got a Hayward brand one just because of how quick it'd arrive, it's now hooked up and working again.

Thanks so much for your help

Lake Placid said:

From what I can see, you have no bypass and metering system. All the water your pump is putting out is running through the heat exchanger and this is limiting your flow to what the heat exchanger can handle. It’s a bottleneck. Basically the bypass would be a pipe with a valve in the middle connecting the inlet and outlet pipes of the heater. You would also want valves on the inlet and outlet side of the piping before the heater but after the bypass. You can then tweak all three valves to restrict inlet and outlet flow to the heater to allow it to heat most efficiently while tweaking the bypass to increase flow back to the pool.

Click to expand...

Here are some pics that better illustrate the area in the plumbing where (I think) a bypass to the heater is installed.

1st pic... main return line
2nd pic... following the main return line
3rd pic... pipe coming off the return line going to heater with Valve #9 fully open
4th pic... section of the return line between pipe going to heater and pipe returning from heater with Valve #8 partially open
5th pic... pipe coming from the heater back to the return line with Valve #10 fully open



I have seen the pool company adjust Valve #8 in order to maintain a 30 psi reading on the pressure side guage at the pump. I have never seen them adjust Valves 9 or 10. Is this the heater bypass you are referring to? Could playing around with those valves possibly increase the flow? Should I tempoarily shut off flow to the heater (Valve #9) and fully open Valve #8 to see if that affects the flow rate? Any precautions to take when adjusting these valves, i.e., should I turn off the heater first, adjust the valves slowly, which order to make the adjustments, leave Valve #10 open or closed, etc.? Thanks for any guidance on how to tweak these valves to increase flow (without breaking something).

Also, I notice that the suction line from the Main Drain is half closed. Is that common? Is this done in order to increase water flowing through the skimmers?