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Obsessed to Avoid Jug-Lugging... the final frontier

JoyfulNoise
FWIW … whenever I get packages with dry ice in them, I always throw the dry ice in the pool. The other day we got a delivery that had two big bricks of dry ice in them, probably 3lbs total. I put the smaller brick in my spa and the larger one in the pool. The spa pH was registering 5.2 on my Apera probe and the pool water near the bubbling brick was 6.9. After it all finished I measured the pool at a pH of about 7.0. TA was unchanged. It returned to normal pH pretty quick but it’s a fun experiment to do showing that dissolved CO2 acidifies water.
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What did you do to your pool today?

Dirk
What did I do to in my pool today? Bathed. Ugh.

Woke up today to a clogged sewer line. No toilets working. Couldn't shower. Spent a chunk of the day trying to find a plumber. No luck. Got one scheduled for tomorrow afternoon, finger's crossed.

So what does this have to do with my pool? If I find out that this was caused by losing that stupid pool filter plug down the drain line, I'm going to go ballistic. Now that was, what, like a week ago from yesterday, so a whole week and all the drains were fine. I even took a long shower last night. So the sewer line plugged up between last night and this morning!! And that filter plug is small. It shot down a 2" drain hole, so how could it get stuck in a 3" or 4" main?

Roots? Ugh. I'll know tomorrow. Guy has a sewer cam, so I'll get the whole story, one way or another. House call... snake work... cam charge... any guesses? $1000? And I'm always off by 100%. Uhg. I suppose clearing roots is another separate charge. What, another $1000?!?

TMI ALERT

So back to my pool today. What to do about a shower? I could have just had a swim, but I like to go to sleep ultra clean. So I filled a bucket with hot water, went out to the yard and stood near one of the drains in my deck, and had a nice, uh, bucket bath. Wash cloth, bar of soap, and did the best I could. It was refreshing, I'll give it that, thanks to a decent wind tonight. Then I rinsed as best I could and then jumped into the pool! It was 79°, but felt warm compared to a windy bucket bath. Very refreshing. I didn't see any bubbles on the surface, so whatever soap I didn't get off before I jumped in was minimal.

So yah, this pool is probably going to cost me another grand, maybe two (maybe more?), but at least it was there when I needed it. For a bath. And just in case @Newdude is having any trouble picturing it...


Bucket Bath stock illustration. Illustration of bathing - 41195124
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Saturation Question - Big CSI vs LSI mismatch

T
Hi all, before diving into my question, I did find quite a few threads on this topic, but none had such a big difference between CSI and LSI (Taylor Waterwheel) that wasn't explained by some sort of calculation error. Maybe my issue is also some calculation error I am just missing. I know the waterwheel provides less different measurements and leaves out many parameters but the differences between the two are very different so I wanted to get some clarity, in particular, before adding calcium, which would push me further away from a 0 balance on the Waterwheel but near 0 on the CSI provided by Pool Math.

Measurements Today all with Taylor Kit and Goals:
temp 78 degrees F
FC 6.5 -> hold
pH 7.7 -> hold (range 7.6-7.8)
TA 80 -> hold
TH 400 -> plan to increase to 450...maybe even 500.
CYA 70-> plan to increase to 75
Salt 3100 -> added salt today to increase to 3300

Borates (based on test strips) 40 -> hold

On the pool math, the CSI for my goals amounts to -0.09 but on the Taylor Waterwheel I get almost +0.40. None of the other threads I read had this big of a discrepancy that wasn't explained by something else. The "further reading" post on this subjects states "Do not get hung up on the "which is better" debate, as that is a false choice. The indices are simply measures of how stable calcium carbonate is in solution. You can use one or the other; both will give you the same general answer." but its hard for me to not wonder which is "best" with such big differences.

In general, trying to aim for slightly positive in balance, hence my desire to push CA higher in the "ideal" calcium range. The owners before me seemingly added almost no calcium to the pool and there seems to be a lot of what I assume is corrosive damage to some of the rocks around my pool. But I am open to learning and suggestions!

Thanks in advance for any help.
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Obsessed to Avoid Jug-Lugging... the final frontier

setsailsoon
JoyfulNoise said:
I love you moisture-dwellers … the very thought of discharging 200+ gallons of water per day sends shivers up this desert rat’s spine 😖 At nearly $12/kGal water rates, I’d have stroke looking at that monthly water bill 😵‍💫😵💀
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Yep, that must be different. The water table is 12-15' all around here. But the soil is also 85% sand so anything on a slope can actually drain out and dry enough to make water hungry St Augustine or Flora-tam brown. So that couple hundred gals would be needed. If I didn't have it I'd add another zone on the sprinkler. Here's the control software I'll use. I can start with plug in values I enter and when I'm satisfied it's working OK I'll run it closed loop to balance the pool:


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New member trying to break old pool store habits and find an inexplicable source of copper...

kne
RachelWL said:
Thanks of the support. It's been a ride.
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The people here genuinely LOVE helping people get the perfect pool water. Especially with a member like you communicating, adding the pictures, doing what is discussed without secretly relapsing into following pool store instructions. It takes a little time and effort, but you will have the best swimming water out of anyone you know and after this initial dial in, it will usually be easy and kind of boring. Then you eventually make pool friends here and help other newbies.
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Sheer Descent Waterfall Has Become Weak

PoolStored
Can you post several pictures of the pool, the waterfall, and your equipment pad so we can see all the equipment and valves (if you need multiple pics, do that).
If you can, show pics of the valves in each one of the operating modes (whatever changes automated valves). Wide shots showing all the valve positions at once are better.
Also, how are you testing your water (what kit)?
Post a full set of results. FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, CYA and Salt.
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Autopilot with PPC3

V
ajw22 said:
If you have 32V with the cell disconnected the cell is depleted and needs to be replaced.

You cannot simply connect a power supply directly to the cell. The control board performs other functions, such as switching the plates' polarity.

Check with these folks and see what they recommend...

SaltPoolGuys.com: AutoPilot Pool Pilot Experts

An authorized AutoPilot Pool Pilot & AquaCal dealer featuring replacement cells, parts, complete systems & heat pumps. Offers nationwide shipping.
www.saltpoolguys.com
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Thank you for your reply. What is puzzling is that with cord connected to PPC3, I get ~32 volt reading (from banana plug), while the display shows 0 volts.
Another strange thing is that the red terminal at the banana plug is negative with the tester (I understand that polarity will be changed by the controller).
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Sheer Descent Waterfall Has Become Weak

L
Hello, first time posting so please let me know if I can do anything better!

Backstory:
- Pool was built by the previous owner ~5 years ago. All Hayward w/ OmniLogic Controller.
- Inground, ~22k gal, spill over spa, sheer dsecent waterfall, swg, de filter.
- During the day we have historically ran the pump at 75% and the waterfall has always been strong unless the filter was due for a teardown.
- I installed a new pump last season (vs 950)

Recently, the water fall started to get weak so that reminded me it is probably time to clean the filter grids and recharge. Upon inspection, it seems like some de powder had made make into the pool so I did a full teardown, replaced the grids, and replaced the powder.

After servicing the filter the waterfall is still weak with the pump at 75%.

Things I have tried:
- Full filter tear down, cleaning, grid replacement
- Pool waterfall cleaning metal hook to ensure nothing is blocking the exits. (It looks really clean btw)
- Ensured all baskets are clean and that the pump impeller is not clogged
- Visually inspected the bypass cartridge on the heater.
- Ensured all of the valves are operational and open (automated valves are tuned to boost the waterfall)

At this point I am kind of at a loss. I am not super experienced with pools (this is my first one) but the only other things I could think of is a blockage on the suction side or some kind of restriction on the pressure side. There is no dedicated bypass for the heater so could there be a blockage there?

Appreciate any ideas or feedback,
Lawrence
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Is there anything wrong with low TA if LSI is good?

PoolStored
M28 said:
Okay now that is settled, let's focus on the actual question :cool:
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PoolStored said:
Indoor pools have less CO2 off-gassing (which drives pH up in outdoor pools), so a lower TA can still buffer pH effectively. You are not using lots of products that change pH (acid, CYA etc.), so it is likely you have enough buffering capacity for your pool. If it is stable, leave it.
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pH rising super fast

PoolStored
MBPooldiy said:
Was that an accurate suggestion? I have been doing the same for a few weeks and my TA is now down to 90. Will it work if I just continue this process and once the TA hits 60 I should and can stop adding MA so frequently?
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Correct.

You don't even HAVE to go to 60.
With a TA of 60-80, your pH should be pretty stable between 7.8-8.0...which is just fine.
When you get to 60-80, don't lower pH below 7.8, and don't lower it until you get above 8 (purple hues).
You will be just fine.
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