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Leaking Threaded Connection

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kllentini said:
Hello all,

I have a new Hayward SP SP2670007x10 with a new threaded fitting which threads onto the top of the pump on the return side. I’ve attached a photo to show where I cannot get the threaded connection to stop leaking (I have not fully screwed the connection onto the pump in the picture for easier illustration). I’ve used the thread tape that Hayward sent with the pump and connection. I’ve loosened, retried, retaped a few times but it is still leaking. Any suggestions, like am I missing something? Is there supposed to be a gasket for that connection? Should I try thread sealant or something else? Thanks in advance for any input.
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If the threads in the pump are tapered then you can use teflon tape/sealant, but if they are straight threads then there needs to be some kind of physical seal like a o-ring shown above. Is the white fitting what came with the pump?
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Sundance Optima problems

L
Sundance Optima. New filter, new flow switch. Older hot tub that has been working good for years. However now we have a problem. Goes cold with a FLO2 and circulation pump runs 24x7.

Aside: I've added a ESP-32 with a DS18B20. My Linux server runs Curl ever minute, Mysql, Phplot and I have a nice sawtooth graph 102 101.9 101.8 --- 100.0 99.9 (5hrs) -> 102(15min). The panel display matches.

Now when it cools to < 100 another FLO2, circulation pump running and the temp drops at about 1/2 deg per hour. 95 as I write this. I discovered that if I disconnect the pump for a second and reconnect life is good - for one cycle. So? is a relay bad? the controller fubar?

Is it possible to get a schematic? Is there a WiFi replacement board? Oh and the local Spa shops have declared it too old to repair but we'll give you a nice trade-in on a new $12,000 tub. >WHFO<

Thanks for any help
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TA way too high!

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Ritaw said:
Newly filled inground. 20,000 gallons. TA is over 300 but PH is holding around 7.5 . My water comes from an aquifer and we knew it had high TA but this was only option. I know I need to add muriatic acid but would like to know the proper process. Like how much, how often etc.
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If your pH is in the 7’s then there’s no need to worry about TA. Did the 300ppm come from your Taylor test kit?
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Aqualink down?

C
creativepart said:
After the robot runs overnight I’ll give the web interface a try again and see if it kills everything again.
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It’s Monday morning and the App was still up, but when I launched the web interface BOOM everything went down again.

At least I know how to get the Control Panel and the App working again by resetting the breakers.

Time to call my pool company? Or is this still a Zodiac server issue?
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What did you do to your pool today?

Poolnerdgrandma
Summer is here. We've put up our sunshade and umbrella, and I've increased the pump runtime so that the SWCG can keep up with the longer hotter days, AND all the increased use the pool is getting.
Three grandkids (two 4 year olds and a 7 year old) all swimming like fishes. The early swim lessons were a great investment. Like so many Florida kids, our littles won't remember a time when they didn't know how to swim. Now they're snorkeling.
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Water not returning to pool

L
We opened pool and was using until last week. We needed to replace skimmer faceplate. When we went to, realized we needed a gasket. So pool was off for one week waiting for part. Water was drained a couple inches below skimmer. When we try to get it up and running again it wouldn’t take prime on filter. It will backwash and rinse. It will not send water back to return lines to jets on filter or recirculate.
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Pool rail woes

Turbo1Ton
What did the hardware look like, or do you have the specs on it?

McMaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com) has a tremendous selection of hardware and who I will usually use to get hard to find hardware. You can filter by material, thread size, diameter, length, and pretty much any other characteristic you can think of.

Also could see if you have a Fastenal or other industrial fastener store near you that may be able to source it.

--Jeff
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What is the recommended level of CH on vinyl pool, with Ti heat pump

Scandela0629
Morning to the pool gurus.

I have been reading all weekend, and looking for the current thoughts on the level of CH for a vinyl pool (SWG) using a Jandy Ti heat pump. The Jandy recommended level is 300 per owners manual.

My current level is 50.

In TFP pool school, I see the following:

"Is Calcium Level Important to Heaters?

Direct-fired gas heaters tend to build up a thin layer of calcium carbonate on their internal surfaces over time. This thin layer acts as a barrier to physical metal erosion (from high water flow rates) and chemical attack (from chlorine). However, this film is not indestructible, and it can come and go over time depending on CH and pH levels.

This does not apply to Heat Pumps, electric heaters, or solar heaters."

Does that mean I can "ignore" Jandy's recommendations? Or should I raise the level to the 200 or 300 level?

Thank you all!!
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New member trying to break old pool store habits and find an inexplicable source of copper...

Newdude
RachelWL said:
Golden question.. is it swimmable?
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So some eyes may sting a little if the Ph is off range either way, but here's the thing. Its expected in everybody else's gross pool. At worst, its normal. With everything else in line it may still be better than anyone else's. :ROFLMAO:

If they do sting a little, it'll be a nice reminder about how the other half live to keep you focused going forward.
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Plan Review... New Pool Build in Minnesota. First Time Builder, need your awesome advice!

Newdude
Mr. Muriaticacid said:
If you go with cartridge filter you’ll likely want 2 sets. That way when one set gets dirty you can just pop a new set in while the first set are soaking in trisodium phosphate
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With a large filter that only needs 1 deep cleaning a year, it won't take out critical pool time that the pool is off for a day in the late fall.

I'm usually a 'have a spare of XYZ' guy, but I worry about critters finding this one.
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New to TFPC

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HermanTX said:
A DE is a good filter. It just may take more time. Are you running your pump 24/7? Are you keeping your chloinre FC at SLAM level?
Remember, when backwashing a DE filter, only add back 80% of the recommended DE. If you have been adding more, you may need to break down the filter completely and clean the grids and add the proper amount of DE.
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Yes, my filter has been running 24/7 for about a week now. Still cloudy to the point I can't see the bottom. Next steps will be me to break down the filter and clean I think...it just has never taken this long to clear up. Have been trying to keep the DE to 80% levels, not over filling....
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