Yes I have a salt water generator....Need to add about 90 lbs of salt tonight as well.No manual vacuum. Just opened the pool this past weekend. Just looks milky/cloudy. Attached are a couple of pictures of the deep end (can't even see the return drains) and one of the shallow end. Just tested it again with some test strips from last summer and shows 0 chlorine. Getting more today and getting it in tonight. Then will review again tomorrow.
No manual vacuum. Just opened the pool this past weekend. Just looks milky/cloudy. Attached are a couple of pictures of the deep end (can't even see the return drains) and one of the shallow end. Just tested it again with some test strips from last summer and shows 0 chlorine. Getting more today and getting it in tonight. Then will review again tomorrow.Do you currently have a salt chlorinator? What have you been using so far to add chlorine, if not? (before the liquid you added)
Sounds like you will need to do a SLAM once the kit comes in. SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain
It can sometimes be a longish process, depending on the condition. Do you also have a manual vacuum to aid in getting all the "stuff" out by sending it to waste?
A few here have had problems with ammonia building up over the winter, which can require a LOT of liquid. The test to see is relatively straight forward and fast. But let's cross our finger that you don't have that issue. Most don't. Pics of the pool, and an overview of your equipment would help, also.
It is best to take a photo of your pool every day about the same time (24 hrs between photos). This way you can see progress across several days.yes for my cya it says FC 13, typically then adding 3.5 gallons 10% liquid chlorine since Monday. Ive gone through 18 gal which seems crazy!
Nope. CYA 60 is just fine.Would a partial drain and refill help anymore?
This is exactly what I had to do after the "licensed" plumber ran 100 feet of 3/4" black pipe to my 250,000 BTU heater. I wasn't home when he did the installation. Although, in the end, the upgrade to 2PSI and adding regulators at all my appliances has been a blessing in the end. I was able to add capacity for my grill, my still and deck heater, just had to convert them from propane to natural gas. Plus I stubbed out for a tankless water heater in prep for my current one to die.Maybe not worth the cost or hassle or maybe not permitted in your area. Sometimes the meter and downstream pressure can be upped to 2-3 psi from the 7-8 in of H20 to reduce the need to for larger piping to get your BTU or cubic ft requirements. In this case a regulator is needed on a appliances to reduce the 2-3 psi to 7-8 in of H20.
Hey guys, sorry for the confusion. I guess I messed up on one of the tests, so I redone them with FAS/DPD test as well. Results as follows:I too am confused about your cya.
Show us the level the dot disappeared on the vial.
Thank you for this!!! I will definitely do this! I learn something on here all the time!!Honestly - it looks a bit like dead algae to me.
Perform an OCLT - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
If you pass, great. IF you fail - SLAM - SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain
Excellent point. If you buy via Amazon Prime you get a 30-day return option. I purchased the three year warranty just before that 30-day period ended and registered it online through the Betta site.Buy the extended warranty from Betta as well for cheap insurance.
Read Nature2 Fusion - Further ReadingThanks for this info. We are going to remove the mineral cartridge. Can we just cap it off