Okay - overnight test results:

10 pm - 8.4
6 am - 5.8

This means algae, right?

In addition to the above, get the free PoolMath app for your phone. You enter your readings from your new test kit, and it does the work to tell you how much of what to add.
If you elect, you can pay the $8/yr charge to have it log all your past entries, so you can see how things are trending. That brings the bonus that if you use the same username for it, you can link to here - and we can see your history also. No typing or screenshots for you to do when posting, and easy for us to see what is going on.

Pools only go green due to not enough, or not consistently enough, chlorine (CL). CL gets used up by the sun, so has to be replenished very often. Not having enough may be due to scheduling issues - time to test and add on a very regular basis. Or it may be due to the products used. Chlorine Tablets are the big item here. They contain stabilizer (CYA) and are constantly adding it, along with CL. An appropriate amount of CYA is beneficial. Tabs are great as far as the schedule - one only needs to check periodically. But the CYA they add never goes away, and builds up. Most pool places never recognize that with more CYA in a pool, the greater amount of CL that needs to be added to keep the pool sanitary. They refer to "chlorine lock" or other terms, that is fiction, and advise a one time "shock" of a massive dose. Sometimes with products that appear to work, but add their own bad things (think bagged non-chlorine shocks). The "shock" may temporarily make the pool look better, as it kills some (but never all) of the algae present. The underlying problem is still there, and more CYA means needing more tablets - until the levels are impossible to maintain correctly. So the algae comes roaring back.

Here, we advocate dosing CL based on your specific CYA level, using products that do not add extra CYA. That means constant testing and adding. Likely daily or every other day. Or buying a device (Salt Water Chlorine Generator - SWCG) that will make and add CL consistently by itself, all the time. To defeat a green pool, we elevate the CL level for an extended time - days, or even weeks (for really, really bad cases), to ensure that ALL algae is killed.

Tabs have a place, and if schedules make it such that the frequent monitoring is impossible to do (and a SWCG is not a current option), then one has to accept the fact that there will have to be times where the pool has to be at least partially drained, to get rid of the high CYA level, and filled with fresh water.

mblind said:

and went back to a granular chlorine so I would not be adding to the level of CYA.

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granular chlorine (dichlor) also contains CYA. Was it calhypo or dichlor?

Newdude said:

They are about the same accuracy, which is not very. Ans both are vague comparison tests without an actual value.

You need a fas/dpd test for actual, and reliable FC values.

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Thanks! I guess I should have purchased the K-2006 kit rather than the K-2005. As a person who is just starting on this journey, I did not know what the difference was. All I saw was one was about $10 cheaper.

Newdude said:

Sounds poolstore-y. Worry about the long term things while the short term thing swamps you. (High CYA and low FC)

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Well, to be truthful, I have not sought out the advice from a pool store. The only thing I have done with a pool store is had them open and close the pool last year since I did not know what I was doing. I watched and learned and did my own opening this year. I know my CYA is high. I was hoping that I could address this in a slightly different way which does involve draining as that is the only way to decrease CYA. Read on.

Newdude said:

You'll need to drain to lower the CYA and refilling will throw off your TA/Ph. Abandon that for now.

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Unfortunately, I am unable to drain the pool down the whole 4000+ gallons it will take to decrease my CYA by amount that I would need. I was thinking that I could address this in stages. I was planning on draining a few hundred gallons (about 700 gallons) each time I vacuumed to waste and/or backwashed, that I could bring down the CYA a little each time. The people who owned the home prior used an auto chlorinator. When I opened last year, the person asked if I wanted it reattached. I had no idea what it was and asked his opinion. He said they have their pros but he did not recommend them. I do not use it. My thought is that the CYA would go down some each time and I would get it down to where it was needed. I did use stabilized pucks in a floater last summer. I have not used them this year and went back to a granular chlorine so I would not be adding to the level of CYA. Based on my calculations, I figured that I could have the 4000 gallons replaced in about a month. In the mean time, I wanted to adjust my TA and pH and then get my FC in line. Am I wrong on this? Since CYA doesn't rise without adding it, and since I am draining a bit at a time, shouldn't my CYA go down too?

Newdude said:

Was it stored climate controlled ? If so they're good for a long time.

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As climate controlled as possible. I keep my kit inside in a cabinet when not in use. I have ordered some replacement testing solutions just to be sure.

PoolStored said:

Light is important for turbidity tests. Not sure what video to which you are referring.

For CYA over 90, use this and start at #8:

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

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Thank you this article it is immensely helpful! I’ll give this another go as I made several missteps it seems in my teast. The video I am referring to is in the TF’s you tube channel. It’s not as detailed as the instructions you shared. Any tip for accessing tpool school resources? When I’m logged in to participate in the forum it does not allow me to access articles or links that you shared. If I log out all is well and I can go through this article and all the resources. I noticed this when I registered for this site again actually.

The Stenner injector should be rebuildable. I have not done it yet so I can't confirm, but I would attempt to open it up and see if the duckbill is stuck.

--Jeff

Okay, well, I cleaned everything. Tools, toys, ladder. Scrubbed under every fold in the liner, drain cover, skimmer part. My FC hasn't dropped below 12 since I posted and my entire pool is yellow today, with the FC at 16. I'm guessing I have a circulation issue. I will post in one of the other sections.

jonpickles said:

I have a 13000 gallon semi above ground hybrid pool and it was green for most of last season and now it is bright green again. I'm getting testing done tomorrow and I'll post the results. I spend $988 last year to resolve the issue!

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Welcome! See above link for getting your own test kit. The pool store testing is just designed to sell you $988 worth of stuff that doesn’t usually work.

hhoran said:

Question remains--how could CYA <40 last November suddenly have become >100 in May, when the only chemicals added to the pool were liquid chlorine and three inch tabs for three short 5 day periods. No dichlor, trichlor or other chemicals added.

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The 3 inch tabs have CYA in them. That’s trichlor.

While were at it. I’m also tightneing other connections. How do i tightes the inlets?

Pry off the white housing?

hchambley said:

We just finished our build 2 weeks ago- been in every day since. We have two boys, 4 and 8. 18 x 36 vinyl. We did a bench in the shallow end with corner stairs. 4’-8’ depth. I am SO glad we didn’t go with the tanning ledge. Both kids can touch the bottom at 4’ and it’s just deep enough for an adult to stand and cool off. Also- SO glad we went 8’ - boys are already doing wild jumps in the deep end. Slope is a little slick. Hope that helps from a kiddo perspective.

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Thank you!

We ended up going 3-4’ shallow end and 7.5’ deep end. Hardscape, liner, auto cover still to come but should be all done in the next few weeks!

I’ll post some updates/pics with finished results.

Welcome to TFP!

Mhambel1 said:

I recently changed it out an easy touch circuitboard that went bad for an Intelitouch i10 3D.

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ogdento said:

@Mhambel1 what was your old board? Why not just put the old personality card on what you have now? i

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It was a change from an EasyTouch to IntelliTouch board.

Yeah, I though that might be a dual body card.

It effectively makes it POOL only for a shared system equipment configuration.

So she needs to change the top board to a POOL/SPA personality card to get spa intake/return functionality?

With the tube in the injector but not in the pipe, is it dispensing ?

The part is supposed to be compatible with the genuine Pentair part. You'll have to decide if you want to take a chance with the reproduction part.

Jb48560 said:

Must you do this in the sun as the video suggests?

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Light is important for turbidity tests. Not sure what video to which you are referring.

For CYA over 90, use this and start at #8:

I think many or most of us here agree with @ajw22 about the led reliability. Folks discuss “years of service” but I think specifying the “hours of use” is the real measure. I tend to feel graced if I get more than 10,000 hours from any LED, whether in my pool or in a variety of other home fixtures. That might mean 2-3 years for me, given 8-10+ hours of pool light use per day. So I tend to hunt for the least expensive solution to minimize the painful cost of replacement.

@willerd was kind to give us a link to this Pureline one for $339 which seems a decent alternative for 12V RGB lighting with a long cord. More written in the thread he started at 12v AC Colorlogic pool light drop-in replacement resolution

Alternatively I know of one person who enjoys this one for less than $75 on amazon. The big downside is a 5 foot cord that, if it doesn’t reach a nearby dry junction box, reviewers state they are splicing the cord, which appears to be a code violation and possibly dangerous – even with a very high quality sealed splice and only 12 volts. On the other hand any light – 12v or otherwise - can incur water seepage, and I’ve seen a dozen or more that did - so I’m not sure how dangerous it truly is at 12vac. Start a new thread debating that?? But, even when using a pool rated transformer I always strongly suggest folks implement a GFCI circuit breaker to feed the primary of the transformer. Also, this cheaper light has a lens that protrudes more than most but it’s not ugly. Lastly, as reviewers note this fixture requires modifying the bracket for most wet niches.

I know of another person with this one from amazon for $200, he’s happy with it for the past year, but he does not use it much. Downside is a proprietary multiwire cord that must be pulled all the way back to a proprietary transformer, usually back at the equipment pad, and it probably is not a UL or CEC rated transformer for pool use. There are dozens of imports like this along amazonian way.

So I reiterate the suggestion to anyone with 12V pool lighting - regardless of style or type - to swap the circuit breaker with GFCI if same is not already present. It can save a life when errant decisions are made at various points of wiring and/or with various uncertified devices - and even in cases of “approved” NEC-compliant installations with deteriorating wiring in and near approved transformer enclosures.

Still more options: If you had a standard 10” resealable luminaire that accepts the common E26 base bulb (or acquire such a luminaire for $400-$800+ I guess - or a used one) then you have better options for spinning in an E26 base RGB or white bulb for $30 to $50. RGB ones as well, less bright, for $50-$75. One friend had good luck with a white one for $60 for 2-3 years and he used it a ton.

I know of another “handy” person who used a standard 10” re-sealable luminaire and mounted and wired 3 MR16 bulbs inside, at about $2 each. He went with white, very bright, 5 watts each. But I think I also saw an NEC code page stating that wiring inside the luminaire is not allowed, despite the fact that some old Sta-Rite fixtures did exactly that to wire multiple halogen bulbs – some at 12V, some even at 120v. I call that one the “build your own lightbulb” solution.

hhoran said:

Question remains--how could CYA <40 last November suddenly have become >100 in May, when the only chemicals added to the pool were liquid chlorine and three inch tabs for three short 5 day periods. No dichlor, trichlor or other chemicals added.

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How many 3" tabs?

Each tablet adds 1.8 ppm.

33 tabs will add 60 ppm.

Three 5 day periods is 15 days.

You either have test error and/or some type of CYA was added.

It is pretty much as simple as that.

Well brand new Stenner injector and new pump tube doesn’t seem to have solved the challenge. If I pull the tube out of the injector it is pumping solid and can fill a bucket quickly in each rotation/cycle of the motor rollers. Guess next thing is to try getting the Pentair brand injector and see if that is the magic solution. Any other areas to check out?

Thank you I will do the test again to be accurate as possible. Must you do this in the sun as the video suggests? I did this test under incandescent lighting indoors in the evening.

Hey @ajw22 and @Mhambel1 the personality board I see in the picture is an i10+3D which is a dual equipment board - it's not a pool only. it can control two different sets of equipment (presumably a pool and a spa), but it's different from the i5/7/9+3 in that it's not a shared configuration... unfortunately I don't really know anything more than that about shared vs dual equipment

@Mhambel1 what was your old board? Why not just put the old personality card on what you have now? i.e. take off the top i10+3d board and put on whatever was on your old system. The mainboard/motherboard is the same for all intellitouch systems, and it detects what it "should be" based on what personality board (the top board) you plug into it

I found just missing screen cap on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CYT33J2V?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Can you please check if the part is good for me?

Thank you.

Yes, filled to the middle. And one skimmer. Will try with dye

Capnswab said:

I think it’s like a 13” or 14” square more or less. Wiring into the aux relay on the pump was really straight forward. The control box has vents on the top and sides, so I don’t know that I’d want to completely box it in.

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Getting ready to do mine. I just installed my (RJ) for plumbing, and about to power it. Any chance you can send me a photo of the inside of the pump area?
What size wires, and from where to where? Did you run it off the same power as the pump?