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New member trying to break old pool store habits and find an inexplicable source of copper...

B
RachelWL said:
Fyi, they're recommending, what we can refer to as the potion du jour; pool magnet plus, sparkle up, alkalinity, ph, and calcium.
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You really just need chlorine, and maybe a little acid depending on accurate test results when they’re ready.

The pool magnet is a sequestrant, the sparkle-up is supposed to be used in conjunction with it to “remove metals from the water”. It’s just cellulose to help clog up your filter to catch the copper in some way?. Pools almost never need to increase their alkalinity or the calcium, but do tend to need acid to keep the pH from rising too high.

The copper levels they tested are concerning though.
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New member trying to break old pool store habits and find an inexplicable source of copper...

Newdude
RachelWL said:
I do think they mean well, in all honesty
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My own Mom and Pop pool store means the best. The extended family employees are legit trying their best, with terrible industry advice. They often conflict themselves and cant answer any questions that aren't on the script, such as why they recommend a 120 TA for heavy puck use, when you're not using pucks.

Those are the *honest ones*. Don't even get me started on the others.
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Adding a PVC return to AGP that does not go through the pool wall?

Jimrahbe
02,

If water has a choice of going down a 2" pipe or a 1" pipe, it will go down the 2" pipe.. :mrgreen:

It is harder to push water through a 1" pipe than it is a 2" pipe.. The longer the path the harder it is for water to flow..

Some water will flow out the 1" pipe, but not what you are thinking..

If you are going to do this, use 2" pipe and add a smaller eyeball at the 'near' return and a larger eyeball at the 'far' return.

Thanks,

Jim R.
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New Intelitouch i10 3d setup

Mhambel1
Hello,
I recently changed it out an easy touch circuitboard that went bad for an Intelitouch i10 3D. There are some differences I’m trying to wrap my head around. Here are my questions if anyone could help me troubleshoot.

1. I have my VS pump set to run at a medium RPM most of the time for filtering and chlorination, but I run it at a high RPM for an hour or two in the morning for the skimmer. My SWG is powered through a relay connected to the “pool pump” socket on the circuit board. It appears I could only choose one RPM setting to trigger the pool pump relay. Is there a way to run the saltwater generator whenever the pump is running?

2. I have a heater bypass valve. The new circuit board only has room for two valves without the expansion module. Is there a workaround to control a third valve using any of the other connections? Aux etc…

3. Valve assignments. Only two sockets without an expansion board. I have my intake and return valves and the A and B socket for now. I’m surprised I can’t just assign them as intake and return. I have them set to change whenever the spa heater is active for now, but that does not allow me to have a spillway for spa water circulation with the pool. Assuming I need an expansion board for my heater bypass valve anyways, what’s the best way to get the spillway to work? I do have a manual valve on the pool return to divert a little bit to the spa when the pool is filtering. I’d like to be able to turn on the cascade from the spa to the pool (pool suction, Spa return) for the waterfall look.

Inground Freeform plaster pool and spa
Pentair inteliflo VSF
Pentair whisper flo water feature pump
Intelichlor SWG ic 40
Master temp 400k with bypass valve
DE filter
Intelitouch i10 3D controller
Intelibrite led lights
Programming and control with Screen Logic
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Jandy Pro Series TruClear

T
Thank you for that information. I do not have any automation. The unit has a 3 year warranty so I guess I should just let them keep coming back for free replacements as long as they will. Any benefit to having some kind of cover over the power pack and really all of the equipment to cover from sun and rain. I've attached a picture for reference if anyone has any ideas on how to go about it.
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New member trying to break old pool store habits and find an inexplicable source of copper...

R
Newdude said:
Its not you, its them. Their testing is terrible and the advice is worse. We got you now. :)
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As a follow up to this, I received an email from he store today stating she has on good advice from the chem rep that I just need to do the cycle of treatment plan a couple more times for results. I let her know we have tried this cycle more times than I can count and in this last occurrence it made the copper increase not decrease. I do think they mean well, in all honesty. But this is the definition of insanity.
Fyi, they're recommending, what we can refer to as the potion du jour; pool magnet plus, sparkle up, alkalinity, ph, and calcium. I know my pool needs a lot to get it where it needs to be. But it has failed numerous times and I am not insane. I'll let that be and move forward. I really appreciate you all. I am waiting for test kit to come tomorrow. Steady rain here, pump is 24 hr and backwashing as needed, per someone else I added 3/4 gal of liquid chlorine last night and will do the same tonight. Really glad, because it would be much worse without it due to the multiple days of rain.
Hope you all have a great day and are somewhere more sunny than I am.
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Noob to the forum. Looking for CYA advice

proavia
PoolStored said:
He is in SLAM process. He is not adjusting anything but FC. He had pool volume off, which we spent the last page sorting out. He did addition at start of slam with a larger pool volume, which meant he added 40ppm instead of 30. We are good...


Dry stabilizer in socks, go back a few pages and you can see his rig...
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Ok, great!
So likely pool volume may be a bit over 22,000 gallons (8# = CYA 44), but still within the +/- 10 ppm of the CYA test.
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Noob to the forum. Looking for CYA advice

PoolStored
proavia said:
And if you are in the SLAM Process, why are you adjusting any levels except FC?
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He is in SLAM process. He is not adjusting anything but FC. He had pool volume off, which we spent the last page sorting out. He did addition at start of slam with a larger pool volume, which meant he added 40ppm instead of 30. We are good...

proavia said:
Exactly what product did you add?
How did you add it?
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Dry stabilizer in socks, go back a few pages and you can see his rig...
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Do I have a problem...

P
Good morning. I just recently bought a house which has a new pool. I used to own a home that had a pool so I participated on this forum probably 15 years ago and used the BBB back then. I bought a Taylor K-2006 and have been testing regularly. My current issue is water color. Please see the attached pictures of a section of the pool. The night time picture from last night and the daytime picture from this morning. As you can see, the night pic has a green tint which is very visible from the pool light. The daytime pic does not show that coloring at all. When I first noticed this a few days ago I thought algae so I did a SLAM and raised my CL to 24 (CYA is 60) and kept it there for 24 hours. There was some CL usage but not a lot. After a day and no change to the night color, I did the OCLT and FC did not change overnight and there was no CC. My current numbers are:

FC: 15
CC:0
pH: 7.8
TA: 80
CH: 225
CYA: 60

I have not tested for metals as it was something I did not need to do years ago. I have not added any sort of algaecide but that doesn't mean that the prior owner did not. Could this be what is causing this green tint color? Again, I do not see this color at all during the day.
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Is there a more accurate cya test than the Taylor kit?

JoyfulNoise
Do you have the 50ppm CYA Standard solution?

I have often checked my eyeballs and lighting by using the standard solution. Since it’s known to be 50ppm, you mix it up with the reagent and then fill the tube to the 50ppm mark. Then you go outside and look at the tube. Find the best lighting and distance from your eyeballs that gives no dot at 50ppm. It’s a good way to check yourself and gain confidence.

Make sure you’re following the directions with regard to holding the tube properly and at the proper distance from your eyes as well as not staring intently at the tube forcing your brain to “see” a dot.

It’s not the greatest test but it’s generally close enough for what is needed.
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