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Kaptain · Thursday at 10:34 AM

Newdude said:
The target doesnt matter, only the actual. You can't lose what you didnt have in the first place.

So you started with 15 and ended at 14.5. The also 0.5 CCs makes it a no question pass, so long as the water and all the surfaces are TFP clear.

I wouldn't. Between rain and evaporation it'll always dance at least that much. 2 inches for me is 1000 gallons with a 20x40 so 750ish for you ?

Then you get slightly degraded bottles of bleach to be off further at times. Don't worry, you'll be a former jug lugger soon. Welcome back to SWG club.

SWG gets here this afternoon, cant wait.
So speaking of SWG's my test results are inconsistent. Monday evening I tested 1000ppm and added 4 40lb bags, Tuesday evening I tested at 1500ppm and added another 4 bags that resulted in 2800ppm before calling it a night. Wednesday evening I tested at 2200ppm added 2 more bags. Thursday morning I am now 2400ppm.
Few things I can conclude:
My test Tuesday evening is wrong, probably did not circulate enough before testing.
This must be the +or- 500ppm of error during testing
And quality of salt does matter. First 4 bags were SureSoft from Homedepot, next 6 were Diamond Crystal Splash Ready

How long should I wait to test after adding salt?

reaton · Thursday at 10:34 AM

Yeah there is a smidge of dirt in the pool, but I just think that's normal because our pool is surrounded by a garden bed and trees. I'll clean the stairs and ladder tomorrow or Saturday and hold the SLAM until Sunday into Monday to be extra sure. Last thing I want to do is put those back in and undo all this work.

cthenrys · Thursday at 10:33 AM

Newdude said:
Nice !!!

I always vote for a way easier continuation verses possibly starting over in a few weeks.

Water goes stagnant pretty quickly. Flushing the lines for a few minutes daily is preferred, twice a day is best.

Dilute bleach 10:1 like you were scrubbing inside the house and make believe you are scrubbing inside the house. Then rinse it well.

Thanks. That's good advice. I will set the schedule accordingly. What about cleaning the pump baskets ? Can they soak or just scrub them too ?

ajw22 · Thursday at 10:32 AM

Helmuth said:
Thanks for the assistance.

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PoolStored · Thursday at 10:27 AM

swimmy22 said:
should I cut them open and pour the stabilizer into a sock or will they dissolve just as quickly if I just put them in the sock without cutting them open?

Cut them open and put them in socks, dangle in front of a return.

1746214035506.png

PoolStored
May 2, 2025

swimmy22 said:
I also need to lower the PH of my water before starting a SLAM. Pool math says that 4 lbs of stabilizer will lower the PH by .52 which will lower the PH from 8.0 to 7.5. Should I skip the muriatic acid since I’m adding so much stabilizer?

Lower pH with Muriatic acid.

Once you have lowered pH and the socks are in the water, start your SLAM.

ajw22 · Thursday at 10:24 AM

My WAG is the bench was built using rebound, and the gunite would crumble if the plaster were removed.

Do you have any pictures of the build showing if the bench was framed with rebar?

PoolStored · Thursday at 10:23 AM

There is no available information on the output of Moov units.
I'd call them and ask for lb/day chlorine creation for your unit.
Then you can choose "Not Listed" for your SWG model and enter the lb/day they give you into pool math.

Helmuth · Thursday at 10:22 AM

ajw22 said:
Turning the WPS may have dislodged debris blocking the orifice.

This is the adjustment knob.

View attachment 646092

Thanks. So on further inspection of the equipment I am seeing that the adjustment knob/dial are quite worn away. It looks like perhaps some salt build up over the years has done this and the knob basically disintegrated in my hand when I tried to turn it. The metal inside one of the connectors also disintegrated and fell out of the plastic housing. So looks like I’ll need to order some parts to get back up and running now. Thanks for the assistance.

Sendit6 · Thursday at 10:21 AM

Hi All - trying to determine the best or most logical way to keep our water at 88, which is where the wife and kids like it.

400k btu Raypak natural gas.

1.
Keep set temp at 88, and when it drops 2 degrees below that the heater will cycle on to get back up to 88.
The sun should do most of the work though in keeping it at or above 88, so heater shouldn’t cycle on that much.

2.
Keeping set at 85, and let the sun bring it up to 88, and likely higher, and heater would hardly ever cycle on.

In other words, trying to figure out a system to keep the water where they like it around here, while cycling the heater as least as possible.

Pool is pretty much full sun all day.

Anyone do similar experiments or have a system in place?

Mdragger88 · Thursday at 10:21 AM

Richie-Czech said:
I haven't yet ran the system. I have the one Mystic White II opened, that's when I noticed, so that one bag I will use in the filter. Weirdly, the Aquaquartz looks to be the same size, so now I'm confused.
Returning the Mystic White II is also 5 boxes for Fedex, I don't even know if it's worth the $70 savings (about $14 delta in the Aquaquartz and MW II). Aquaquartz is what Doheny's recommends/requires. Leslie sells it too, the one made by Covia.

Does backwashing first and then running it properly settle the grains in a way they don't get through the laterals after the initial start? Otherwise I think I'd have issues with all #20 sands out there regardless of manufacturer.

Idea is this - I have a few yards of sandy 9s. Apparently this is a normal landscaping term/sizing and it should be somewhere between sand and pea gravel. I think pea gravel is used sometimes as a buffer.

What if I used a couple of inches of the sandy 9s (washed and cleaned before using) and then doing a standard sand bed? That should help prevent some of the blow-by?
See pic. MW II is the white, sandy 9s is the darker stuff, lateral on the side for reference.

Not sure about that plan- some filter manufacturers do recommend a pea gravel base layer but not sure if what you have there qualifies.
If you have a shop vac and can extract the mystic after trying it then i say just give it a shot if you want. Test it by backwashing and see how much you get out. If it’s alot then don’t proceed to filter with it and instead replace it. And just use it to fill holes in your yard and get something else today.

japoolspa · Thursday at 10:19 AM

Do you have Easytouch or Intellitouch?

swimmy22 · Thursday at 10:17 AM

I need to add 4 pounds of stabilizer to my pool to get CYA to 30 so I can start a SLAM since my water is dark green at opening. (CYA appears to be zero because I drained a lot of water out of my mesh-covered pool during the winter). I’m going to be using HTH Stabilizer Pods to achieve this since I have an old bag in my garage that I bought several years ago and never opened. What is the best and fastest way to add 4 pounds of these stabilizer pods to my pool? Directions on the container says to add 1 pod (1/2 lb) at a time to the skimmer and let it dissolve completely before adding more. Directions on this site says to put the stabilizer in a sock and put it in the skimmer or dangle a sock of stabilizer in front of a deep end return. If I’m going to use these HTH pods, should I cut them open and pour the stabilizer into a sock or will they dissolve just as quickly if I just put them in the sock without cutting them open? Can I put all 4 pounds in several socks and put them all in the skimmer basket or could this clog the filter or damage the pump if I added this much to the skimmer at once since stabilizer is very acidic? Since I’m going to be backwashing often during the SLAM to prevent the filter from getting clogged, should I avoid putting the stabilizer socks in the skimmer and use the “sock in front of a deep end return” method instead so I don't lose CYA to backwashing as much? I tried that method once and the sock got knocked into the pool somehow so I’m reluctant to try that again. If that is the best way to add stabilizer to a pool during a SLAM, I need some suggestions on how to tie it to something so high winds or a critter can’t knock it into the pool. 4 pounds is a lot to add at one time but I really don’t want to add it over several days since I need to clear the pool up as quickly as possible.

I also need to lower the PH of my water before starting a SLAM. Pool math says that 4 lbs of stabilizer will lower the PH by .52 which will lower the PH from 8.0 to 7.5. Should I skip the muriatic acid since I’m adding so much stabilizer?

Mdragger88 · Thursday at 10:15 AM

Mdragger88 · Thursday at 10:13 AM

Today was the day! Hoping to capitalize on the upcoming rain.

A bit of silt from my sieve of a cover

But Roberta robot

is working feverishly on that now.
System has been running a few hours a day since April 9th so I have made my way up to slam level with the swcg.
Steps look a little dingy- may throw some sequestrant in after fc falls a bit.

Mdragger88 · Thursday at 10:13 AM

Mdragger88 · Thursday at 10:13 AM

PoolStored · Thursday at 10:13 AM

Kaptain said:
Should I add 500 gallons to my pool volume in the app?

I agree with @Newdude Right now, you are overshooting with your additions...that means your pool volume is LESS than the 22K. Probably your shelf/steps account for a bit less volume. I'd leave it. It gives you a bit of skoosh with degraded chlorine etc.

All good!

Reminder, always follow this now, and keep your FC at the top of the range. FC up to and including SLAM level is perfectly safe: Link-->FC/CYA Levels

From Tabs and high CYA to now...Look at you. We want pics of this pool!

Post up too...Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

:nopic:

Sendit6 · Thursday at 10:08 AM

Hi all - we have a Moov brand swg, anyone else have one?

Asking because it isn’t in the choices for the drop down to put in signature details.

Winger 03 · Thursday at 10:07 AM

I had the drain cap on my filter break. It was plastic and old and I tightened it just a bit too much. Pool store had one for about $12 or so. As I stared at the broken cap, the size looked very familiar. I then went to Lowes and picked up a 2 pack of caps for an outdoor garden hose for 97 cents.

Newdude · Thursday at 10:04 AM

Rawhidesabi said:
So after reading all of the basics and going down the rabbit hole here what readings or forum posts do you suggest I read up on next?

In the left sidebar menu or in the quick navigation section at the bottom of any forum page is the TFP Wiki.

Go buck wild in your free time. There are many links that will be relevant to you.

And Welcome to TFP !!!!

ajw22 · Thursday at 10:03 AM

Rawhidesabi said:
So after reading all of the basics and going down the rabbit hole here what readings or forum posts do you suggest I read up on next? I am currently scrolling through the opening and closing sections to get more in tune with the process but If anyone has something to suggest that will prepare me a bit I am all ears.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Pool School

www.troublefreepool.com

If you have annual repairs because of freezing, there is something inherently flawed. Could be materials, improper application/install of acceptable materials and/or just a bad design.

Concrete, paver or tiles can all be done, but each has some things that need to be taken into account to last and not be need regular repair. No matter which one you choose drainage and proper subsoil/base prep is the key to making them last.

Figure out what look you want. Share photo of the current state and it's issues. and share ideas of what your plans are. Rendering would be helpful for getting feedback.

Rawhidesabi · Thursday at 9:58 AM

Alright Awesome! Im excited to give this method a run now. I keep mentioning aquarium testing but i think it is the same in my opinion. When i test daily/weekly on my aquarium i am able to stop things before they occur and become more in tune with my tanks. I think doing the same with my pool will save money and issues in the future if I am properly testing my pool and watching the parameters.

So after reading all of the basics and going down the rabbit hole here what readings or forum posts do you suggest I read up on next? I am currently scrolling through the opening and closing sections to get more in tune with the process but If anyone has something to suggest that will prepare me a bit I am all ears.

Thank you all in advance. Forums have always been helpful for me when seeing someone with an obvious issue walk through the process with others and reach a resolution as it shows me the process they took and what was succesful and what was not.

Newdude · Thursday at 9:55 AM

Hey Mike and Welcome !!!

We need pics of that beauty. Kayak style pools with the decking were everywhere growing up in the north/east and now they are a golden unicorn.

Newdude · Thursday at 9:50 AM

Tattooed Nurse said:
How do I have 1 of CC if my test showed 0????

Total Chlorine (TC) - CC = FC.

One way of seeing it is if you lost 1 FC to over time, you cumulatively had 1 CC over the same time. A little is expected from normal operation, and there is a 1 drop test variance. You tested 0 CC, so take the win.

Tattooed Nurse said:
And my signature is filled out

Your profile is filled out. The Signature is here. Please put in all the details with model #s so they show below your posts and we can see them at a glance without going into your profile.

proavia · Thursday at 9:49 AM

What exact Taylor test kit are you using?
Add it to your signature.

Post a few pics of your equipment pad from a few different angles.

Post a complete set of current test results.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temperature

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta · Thursday at 9:46 AM

Hi Beth. I noticed you've been using a 25 mL sample for FC/CC testing. As you continue on, use a 10 mL sample to conserve reagents. It will still provide enough precision. Multiply each drop by 0.5, or just divide by 2.

Newdude · Thursday at 9:42 AM

It may have been making the CH start to precipitate and dull the sparkle, but by itself, no. One way to find out, and once everything is in range, you should be back to TFP clear/feel.

PoolStored · Thursday at 9:40 AM

Beth0277 said:
This means algae, right?

Yup.
Go here and read a couple times. In "before you start" there is a link to a checklist you can print out and keep with you. Link-->SLAM Process

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