Difficulty measuring pH

From the tftestkits.net site, here is what the colors on the one they ship should look like:
Screenshot 2025-03-01 153653.png

They sell one from Taylor also, with black caps, that has the same range. In the product photo they used, the Taylor colors are more vibrant. But who knows if that is the case in real life, side by side.

Finally, if one wants to dig around on the Taylor site, as well as Amazon, there is a Taylor comparator that has finer gradations. 0.2 steps, instead of .3/.4, although the range is only 7.0-8.0. Uses a different reagent, though.

Screenshot 2025-03-01 153653.png

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Picking a vinyl liner. Liner stock questions?

I am having a pool built soon. 18x36 with tanning ledge and a couple benches off the tanning ledge. I have a couple liners I’m leaning toward, they are Latham Reef and Latham Terrazzo Caribbean. I have read some things that say it’s best to have a darker back on the liner. I believe the Terrazzo is printed on blue. I believe the Reef is on white. I really like the Reef and the water color but I am fearful of the white back not aging as well. Is this a big deal?

Pump sizing question

A Variable Speed pump is a variable horsepower pump. You can set the pump speed for the HP needed for different operations. You no longer need to try and guess the correct HP for your pool configuration.

We recommend you get a 3HP pump and then dial it down to whatever speed and HP works best for your pump. Dialing down a large HP pump uses less energy then a smaller HP pump.

Checkout the Circupool 3HP pump which is the same as the B&D pump with a lesser warranty at lower cost.


Difficulty measuring pH

Yes, I did the dpd test for the chlorine measurement. I haven't used the comparator for chlorine measurement.

I've been keeping the chlorine that high because I was going for 15% of CYA, which I thought was correct. I have my SWG set to 20%, which keeps it that high. Now I'm realizing that's probably too high so I'll turn it down.

I agree the comparator doesn't look right. I think water has been leaking inside and diluted the colors. I'll order a new one.

Thank you everyone for your help!

Pump sizing question

My pool is 35ish years old. It is a very simple SoCal concrete inground pool-only (play pool 3ft-5ft-3ft approx 20K gals) with just an old-school timer box, pump and DE filter (no spa, no heater, no SWG). There are 2 skimmers, split main drains (installed during replaster 2 years ago but are capped off) and a dedicated suction port for "thepoolcleaner". The skimmers (30' and 50' away) share a 2" line while the suction port (40ft away) has its own 1.5" line. They come together at the pool equipment to a valve that "blends" the suction between the two sources. The filter is a Purex stainless steel DE model that is, I believe, 60 sq ft. The filter is original save for replacement grids from time to time. Until recently, I only replaced the pool motors over the years because the brass pump (Aqua Flo)) just kept working. Last time, I went with a refurbished Hayward pump (including wet end) because that's what my home protection insurance provided. I have just replaced the motor's capacitor for the second time now in the past two years. I suspect this may be a warning of impending failure.

I have always gone with 2hp single speed motors because that's what was installed when it was new. I'm sure it was never properly "sized" to my specific configuration. I am guessing 2hp may have been overkill and was probably elected (by me) because it was the biggest and baddest at the time. I am starting to research variable speed pumps. I'm intrigued by the lower cost lines (e.g. Black and Decker) due to their favorable reviews, price, warranty and DIY friendliness. The circuit going to the pool equipment is 220V 15A (which might limit some of the higher output models). Now is my chance to properly size the pump to my application. What say the experts? Or do I need to provide more info?

Main Drain to Skimmer Valve Ratio

M,

Did you just change the labels on the pipes???

Assuming your above pic is correct, you want to do the following...

1. Set the handle of the West skimmer to straight down. This will turn the skimmer on at 100%
2. Set the handle of the East skimmer to the 2:30 position.. This will close off most of the main drain and open the East skimmer as much as you can with this valve set up.

The above is all you really need to do.. but... If you want to get picky...

The skimmer nearest to the equipment pad will always get the most suction.. The skimmer farthest away will get less suction... You can try to make the suction to each skimmer the same by reducing the suction to the near skimmer and opening the far skimmer as much as possible.. You can do this by taking out the skimmer baskets and just by feeling the amount of suction at easy skimmer and then try to balance them as much as possible.. Not at all required, just something that can be done.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Yes. I did what you earlier suggested and you were correct so I relabeled the pipes. Now I can adjust. Thanks
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Hello from Toronto

It's not clear whether "upsize our home" means moving to another house with pool, or building one for your current home. If the latter, this new thread will be of interest:


I should have been a bit clearer in my post. We are planning on buying a home with an existing pool. Hoping to have an inspection completed by a local pool company before committing.
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Hello from Toronto

Hey Brock and Weclome !!!

Somebody mentioned us being talked about on Reddit a while back and I went rabbit hole-ing and was prettty proud to see alot of it. Don't get me wrong, it was still Reddit and there were plenty of haters, but you could kinda tell most of them were just angry at life and we were their random target that day.


Funny you should mention that:
Click ---> Pool Care Basics
Definitely, there were some “interesting” comments from people that were not in agreement with the recommendations (for eg. Test Kits vs test strips). I guess it just comes with the territory. Thank you for including the link for Pool basics. I have some weekend reading to do :).
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MasterTemp 400 water in the tub

I have the MasterTemp 400 heater, and, after failure to ignite, I found the tub full of water. I know the general answer to this is that the heat exchanger is shot, but the problem is that I replaced this one brand new 5 years ago. Is it possible for this to fail after 5 years? Or, is there a chance that the gaskets on the manifold could be causing the leak? I'm not certain if the gaskets would let water into the tub. If it's absolutely the heat exchanger, then I'll just replace it, but I wanted to ask if there were other possibilities just in case. Thanks for the help!

Not getting power to Mastertemp400

I checked and J19 is not closing. All other relays seem to be working fine, water feature, cleaner, jets all turn on/off fine.

Thanks,
Mike
Replace the relay driver chips and see if it fixes the problem. The chips are inexpensive.

Otherwise the relay itself is bad and needs to be replaced. @ogdento has repaired EasyTouch boards.

Not getting power to Mastertemp400

I suspect you have a blown relay driver chip. Read Pentair Automation Systems - Further Reading

Are all of your high voltage relays and actuators working properly?

Check if J19 is closing using your multimeter as described in post #10.
I checked and J19 is not closing. All other relays seem to be working fine, water feature, cleaner, jets all turn on/off fine.

Thanks,
Mike

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