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Issue with salt meter readings?

I purchased a 7 in 1 meter for reading pH, temp, salt, etc that looks pretty identical to the c-600 TF kits sells. Only problem is that I’m consistently getting readings in the 6000 to 7000 ppm range for salt. I’m in the process of SLAMing the pool and after that will be installing a new salt cell so will see what those readings are. I guess I could also pick up a salt test kit? I have strips, they are useless.

There is no way my salt level could be that high. I’ve never seen a reading off my old salt cell higher than 3200 and I certainly didn’t go pour in I a bunch of bags.

Any advice?

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Liner leak after AGP frozen in winter

Looking to the experience of forum members on my 30 ft above ground pool liner. So living in MN, I waited until it was getting down to freezing consistently and waited as long as I could. My Pool Math note says water temp was 47 degrees when I cleaned and closed the pool in early November...just like done previous years. One night, months later, going out with the dogs, something caught my eye and didn't look right. The pool had less water in it and sunk down in the middle. Sure enough, walked around the pool and found a spot where it was all soggy and then had standing water; it had to have water coming out....the liner had a hole.
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Now, as an engineer, I wondered if I was correct on how the pool froze and in the coming days I got my answer. There was about 10 inches of ice on the top and the sides froze inward about 10 inches. The liquid water in the center drained out so without support, the middle dropped. Since it was winter and freezing cold, this remaining "C" shape has held the sidewalls out in the right location all winter.
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Now it is getting warm and all that ice is melting. The side where the leak is located happens to be shaded by the sidewalls of the pool from the low sun so that snow & ice has not melted yet to see what the hole or tear looks like. We have reserved ourselves to replacing the liner as we installed it in 2017 (from my build post questions here) and sounds like that is about the life of a Swimline liner.

I noticed last year I could feel a few of the post's plastic feet thru the liner. It was almost like the foam cove molding I used deteriorated. Has anybody had this issue before and how did you resolve it? I am assuming I need to replace the cove foam all the way around or is there something better to use now? I think i used Gorilla ducktape to tape the cove to the wall and the cove to the 2" foam floor.


The cause I have is guessing from yard tracks in the grass maybe moles may have migrated from the neighbors yard. After all these years, they might have found my pool 2" foam 4x8 sheets a place to hang out for the winter and chewed into my liner. Has anybody had issues with vermin and found a good way to deal with them other than the dynamite method shown in the movie Caddyshack with Bill Murray and the gopher? A friend who sets up a hockey rink says you need to kill all your lawn grubs to remove them but not sure how to do that under the pool and foam.

Suggestions or info on your experiences appreciated!

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Prep and advice for the Great Pollening 2025?

Your plan is great.

I wouldn't waste any more electricity than was needed with a higher RPM. More water flow also makes more mixing so there is a sweet spot IMO before it becomes counterproductive to jack the RPMs further.

The main drains have almost zero pull even at 100% and you won't see any meaningful help from them. Leave them on just a crack in case the skimmers get overloaded.

Hp1100 pool heater turns on no instructions

There is always condensation when a heat pump runs.

The process is the reverse of evaporation.

Evaporation causes heat loss and condensation causes heat gain.

A heat pump does better with higher humidity.

For example, at 80 RH% you get 145,000 btu/hr and at 63% RH, you get 135,000 btu/hr for an UltraTemp 140.

RH = Relative Humidity %.

So, a difference of 17% humidity causes a difference of 10,000 btu/hr in heating capacity.

BTU/HR.....COP..... Air F°....RH%.....Water F°

145,000.....5.8..........80.........80...........80

135,000.....5.6..........80.........63...........80

90,000.......4.0..........50.........63...........80

*Rating in accordance with ARI Standard 1160 (air temp. F° 1% relative humidity/water temp. F°).

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Pool pilot Auto Pilot Salt reading way too low, what could be the reasons?

Have you used the Taylor K1766 salinity test kit to confirm your actual salt level?
most salt systems use an amp reading or some similar method to calculate a salt level but it is rarely that accurate.
However it is important to keep the salt cell happy so it turns on.
So having the actual salt level helps determine the next steps.
Have you cleaned the sensor that reads the salt level for the cell?
I don't have a salt test kit so I will take it to the store today.
I seriously doubt that salt level would drop from 3100 to 400 in a few weeks with no rain, no manual water added, etc. That's why I am wondering if the salt reading is bad.
I searched a bit and found this in the pool pilot manual:

"Tri-sensor Assembly

The Tri-sensor Assembly is used to measure water flow, salt level, and water temperature.

When the water flow reaches a minimum flow rate of 20 gpm (76 L/m), the flow paddle magnet closes a micro-switch that is monitored by the Control Unit.

The Control Unit uses dedicated salt sensor blades to measure the level of salt in the water"

So I need to check on that, but that things is really tough to get out. I already tried with some pliers to move it and it didn't. I will try again later today.

My plan is to get some liquid chlorine and raise the Cl level in the pool, in case I break something and the pool sits while I get a pro. So it won't grow algae while I wait. And then I will try really hard to get that sensor out.
It's this: Autopilot Tri-Sensor Assembly with 12' Cord-APA0003
There is a youtube video on it: Login to view embedded media I am afraid I will break something but I guess I have to try. It is definitely not something I can do with my hands.

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Hayward heat pump with Pentair intellicenter

Hayward is not very good at updating their manuals. That wiring diagram might not be updated. If they have the newer model they can have full functionality of heat and chill through rs485. Although I’m not sure if it could work with pentair because Hayward uses their HUA “Hayward unique address “ as a smart heater to control both heat and cool without having to go to the heater and change it.

Jan 2025 IG pool build in Georgia, need liner re set!!!!

A little update. We dodged a bullet last night, thankfully no tornadoes. What we did have were 50 to 60 mph winds for a few hours. That in turn blew a TON of sand into the pool due to the landscaping not done yet. Pool builder used whatever sand was left for the mortar mix for fill next to the decking...BAD IDEA!!!!!!! Landscapers are supposed to be coming tomorrow to put down sod, and stone around decking, but they might have to wait until end of week, due to the wet soil from the rain which is another annoying thing at this point. I'm getting frustrated with the landscaper, as they originally told me it would be done 2 weeks ago, and calling BS on the soil being mushy. We have clay, and its not that bad, we only had a half inch of rain. Anyway, any ideas on getting the sand out??? Maybe brush into a pile, and scoop as much as i can out, then a final vacuum???

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Ph Meter and the Taylor drop test

So...
Do I keep it stored in a solution of some sort?
How long do I let it sit in the pool water to get an accurate reading?
How often are these things supposed to be calibrated?
I bought the same meter and am also struggling with lack of instructions. YouTube search yields generic Chinese videos.

I found this which is either the same or very similar meter. Explains things better…

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Auto-fill through pressure line?

Hi guys,
I never connected a pressure pump to my 2" pipe that was intended for it. In other words, I have a 2" pipe running from my equipment pad into the pool that is not used.

Question: Could I use that pipe as a self-made autofill?
I am thinking I could connect a smart faucet timer to my outdoor faucet, then connect that to that very pipe, and whenever I need more water in the pool, I would just fill it through there.

"Genius" idea or stupid? :)

Thanks for any input.
Sammy

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