Latest activity

Bill1974 · Wednesday at 4:51 PM

I assume you checked all the wire connections? power and RS485?

Can you connect the control/display panel on the pump to see if you can get it to work from that? This would help determine if the issue is in the pump or in the Aqua Plus controller.

Jenmachen · Wednesday at 4:50 PM

JoyfulNoise said:
Paramount also makes a straight UV system, the UltraUV. They are customizable with the number of bulbs (1,2, or 3). They’re fairly simple to setup and install.

ordered the paramount, looking forward to it!

TinFoilHat · Wednesday at 4:49 PM

The suction side has no pressure so any leak there will suck air in. Past the pump is the pressure side so any leak there will be a visible water leak.

0xblurz · Wednesday at 4:44 PM

The problem was the skimmer issue you pointed out.

For the valve handle, ever since changing the gasket, it has now become loose. I attached a photo. Also getting low pressure out of my jets.

0xblurz · Wednesday at 4:44 PM

Bill1974 · Wednesday at 4:41 PM

Get a meter out and check to see if the pump has power. As ajw22 stated the pumps display panel may be blank because it's disconnected. If the pump has no power, check the relay to see if there is power going in and out of it. If the pump has power than it is not getting a signal from the RS485 cable to run. Check to see if the controller is getting power. If you need to run the pump disconnect the controller and connect the panel on the pump and use that to manually run the pump. You may need do some wiring to get constant power to the pump.

proavia · Wednesday at 4:39 PM

Post a full set of current test results using your TF-Pro test kit.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temperature

If you did an ascorbic acid trearment and then didn't do a full drain/refill, you will need to continue adding the sequestrant to keep the iron in solution - otherwise the iron will redeposit on the pool surface.

Small particles floating on the pool surface are settling out of the air.

Bill1974 · Wednesday at 4:31 PM

Disconnect the pump or SWG and see if the breaker still trips when only one is connected. As state above also connecting the pump and SWG to a different breaker if one is available is a good test to see what component the problem follows. Also check the connections to make sure they are all tight. Most likely the breaker is the issue. If you had a lot of rain and the pump is exposed there is a chance water got in it and is causing a current leak to ground or the bonding wire.

njswimguy · Wednesday at 4:31 PM

Hi Everyone,

I have a 5 year old Omnilogic controller - which I normally love - which is now dead. Back in August we had what I can only assume was a lightning strike (thunderstorms went through and the Omni had no display). I spent $2500 to repair it, including replacing the MSP module and a power supply board. I also added a $400 Siemens surge protector to the panel to prevent it from happening again. When we winterized, we left the breaker off.

Today the guys opened the pool, and the Omni came up briefly (long enough for me to get an email about needing an update) and then it died. The guys said they were going to call out their automation guy to look at it (he's coming on Friday). When I looked, I turned on the breaker and within about 2 minutes I could smell burning electronics. I opened it up (thinking there may be a literal fire) and narrowed the burning to the big power supply in the upper right. (at least I think so)

Anyway - I really don't want to put more money into this thing. I'm frustrated.

Does anyone know if there is a substitute automation system I could install, ideally while using the existing Omnilogic "can" so I don't have to have an electrician re-wire everything? Maybe a different less powerful Hayward controller that would fit in there? I honestly don't have much - VS Pump, booster pump for polaris, salt cell, 1 valve for water feature, led lights and a heat pump. I also am a home automation guy, so I'm cool rolling my own automation with Z-Wave relays if needed. Also am comfortable doing both line voltage and low voltage wiring.

Any creative ideas? I'm tired of keeping my pool guy's BMW shiny. (LOL). Thanks all!
PS: or even a way I could buy Omnilogic parts direct and install myself?

proavia · Wednesday at 4:30 PM

Use PoolMath to deteemine how much chlorine to add.

Is your test kit already on order?
Test Kits Compared

Newdude · Wednesday at 4:28 PM

thiccflair21 said:
It’s my parents pool and they don’t want to spend $100 on a test kit.

I wouldn't spend one penny or waste one ounce of effort with poor data. On any subject.

thiccflair21 said:
I’m guessing it’s not safe to shut down the skimmer valve and just use the main drain and set the filter to waste?

If doing an exchange then its fine because the water level will remain roughly the same. (Providing youre checking that the in and out flows stay about matched)

thiccflair21 · Wednesday at 4:23 PM

PoolStored said:
Replacing water is the only way to lower CYA.
Read "No Drain Water Exchange" here:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Ok read this and I hadn’t considered that I would need to buy another pump. I’m guessing it’s not safe to shut down the skimmer valve and just use the main drain and set the filter to waste?

sdtfp · Wednesday at 4:23 PM

PoolStored said:
Does your pump prime and run with a full basket?
Are there any visible leaks?
Does you pool maintain water Level?

If the answers to Yes, No, and Yes. Then you are likely just fine.
When I move my multiport, with pump off for example, I get air too. I'm not going to rebuilt it until it fails.

Yup, that's my answers.

I read the link you mentioned in your other post and wanted to make sure I understood. Air in the system is only from the suction side? So anything past the pump only will cause water leak? I dont think I get how that works. But I dont have any water leaks that I know of.

In that case, the one thing that stands out in my mind is the chlorinator line I have connected from suction line to the pump output line when I stopped using the chlorinator. I will hopefully get the plugs for that delivered in a few days.

Also the main thing that bothers me is DE leaking into the pool. Not sure if there are other issues with an air leak as my pump primes and runs just fine without any air leaks after a couple of minutes of running.

FrancisK7 · Wednesday at 4:23 PM

I received my filter today!

Can I buy any PVC bushing to go from 2" to 1.5" ? The Hayward manual says we have to use their kit.

It's not clear to me what I need.

courtHouston · Wednesday at 4:22 PM

Newdude said:
Lol. I think he was thinking a wooden structure you built yourself versus the metal-ish ones at Coscto that you could move around alot easier before they were bolted down.

I assumed the Costco style one from the start or else you would have been cementing the posts IMO.

The much-debated wooden 10x12 pergola in question. No, won't be cementing in the posts to an already-built concrete patio.

courtHouston · Wednesday at 4:22 PM

thiccflair21 · Wednesday at 4:22 PM

PoolStored said:
You need a good test kit…link—>Test Kits Compared

Why? Pool store testing is notoriously wrong, and your test kit is insufficient to manage the water. Giving advice on wrong test results, we can do more harm than good.

Get a kit ordered. Add 5ppm of liquid chlorine per day until it arrives.

When it comes, post results! We'll get you going.

When it comes, do the CYA test starting at #8 here:

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

It’s my parents pool and they don’t want to spend $100 on a test kit.

JamesW · Wednesday at 4:20 PM

wireform said:
Cycles several times on and off but at a point it throws a service light but nothing else lit on the back of the board.

Check the Fenwal for a Blinking LED.
Loss of Flame Rectification is common for a Service Heater with no associated Error LEDs on the Board.

wireform said:
Manometer shows good pressure before the valve, never drops below the 4" wc which is minimum.

Pressure Static and Dynamic?

Is the Dynamic Pressure steady?

Kaptain · Wednesday at 4:20 PM

Not sure what your climate is, I live in the desert and we see lots of 100 degree days. Currently we are in the 70s to low 80s, with nighttime highs of 40s.
I have a heat pump and love it because I can have my pool up to 85 by memorial weekend. I could sooner but no one seems to want to swim when its 78 outside.

My method of picking a heat pump probably breaks all the rules, but it works for me.
I have a 60A circuit for my pool and did a load calculation with my pump, light, robot, auto cover, etc. 40A is what I felt was a safe number for a heat pump. So I bought the Pentair Ultra Temp 70.
Yes, it's way under sized for my pool and it takes a week to get it up to 85 before memorial weekend. But after that, it only runs for a few hours in the evenings until late June. Then in late August - September it starts coming on again until kids go back to school and loose interest in swimming.

I don't believe everyone needs a 140,000 btu heat pump. Now if I lived on the other side of WA state, I'd need a bigger heat pump and a larger electrical service..

ajw22 · Wednesday at 4:19 PM

jwcod said:
Just noticed it a few days ago after I vacuumed the pool.

Check the pump impeller for clogs.

Turn OFF the pump circuit breaker and reach into the back of the pump and see if you feel any clogs. ..

Seeds can clog in the impeller and you may need to separate the motor from the volute to fully check it.

Clogging the impeller is why I do not like vacuuming debris through the pump into the filter.

JamesW · Wednesday at 4:14 PM

Check Stack Flue Temperature.
Check Flame Current.
Check Gas usage; it should be 125 cubic feet per hour.
Propane or Natural Gas?
Is the heater correct for the type of gas?
Heater Part Number?
Heater Manufacturing Date and Installation date?
Did the problem just start happening?

JamesW · Wednesday at 4:08 PM

wireform said:
it throws a service light

Service Heater or Service System?

wireform said:
Manifold side I can't stabilize it's all over the place.

Show a video.

The pressure should be a steady -0.2" w.c.

If it is erratic with steady inlet pressure, then the gas valve is likely bad.

Check voltage going to the valve to see if it is solid and steady or fluctuating.

Check Flame Current.

Search

Latest activity

Latest activity

Show only:

Hayward Tristar 2.70

ok, after much research, i still need help knowing which UV system to purchase/install

air leak repair

Multi Port Valve Issue

Attachments

IMG_9430.jpg

Hayward variable speed pump question

Did AA treatment, do I need to use Polyfill?

Main filter pump breaker tripped

Omnilogic options ?

Under Construction Pool - On Hold 5 Weeks

Help with high CYA

Help with high CYA

Draining - Further Reading

air leak repair

Can you go TOO big with your filter?

Attach pergola to patio -- worried about gas lines under patio

Attachments

PERG.jpg

Help with high CYA

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Sta-rite Max E Therm 333HD

Pool Heater Suggestion in North Texas

Spa Return Not Working in Auto/Pool Mode

Gas vs normal exhaust smell on mastertemp 125 heater

Sta-rite Max E Therm 333HD

Filter